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Lathes without motorized carriage feeds

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skeer

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Ok so probable dumb question but, here goes: On a lathe without some form of motorized carriage movement, when turning pieces accurately it’s up to the operator to have a steady hand, and good coordination when adjusting a tool down the piece, yeah?
The biggest difference is consistent feed rates (I believe that’s the right term)?
 
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MikeC55

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Yes, a steady hand would be needed but you must be talking about real antique (metal) lathes. I think virtually all lathes built in last 100+ years have at least a horizontal, screw-operated carriage feed.
 
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Steve from Socal

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MikeC55 said:
Yes, a steady hand would be needed but you must be talking about real antique (metal) lathes. I think virtually all lathes built in last 100+ years have at least a horizontal, screw-operated carriage feed.
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Engine lathes yes, second operation lathes NO. If the lathe in question is not antique then it sound like a second opp lathe. These are used to do simple things like drill, spot face thread with dies etc.
 
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RaisedByWolves

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skeer said:
Ok so probable dumb question but, here goes: On a lathe without some form of motorized carriage movement, when turning pieces accurately it’s up to the operator to have a steady hand, and good coordination when adjusting a tool down the piece, yeah?
The biggest difference is consistent feed rates (I believe that’s the right term)?
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Takes years of practice to develop this skill.


Doesn't sound difficult, but making consistent speed, concentric circles with the handwheel VS jerky pump like movements is difficult. My neighbors kid nearly drove me nuts operating my milling machine as all he was willing to do was make those jerky pump like hand movements and he kept ruining my endmills.

I finally told him he was supplying his own tooling from that point on and he got a lil better, but he eventually dulled all of his endmills and quit asking to run the mill. Having to pay for the equipment can be a great teacher or show whether the individual even has the basic competence for the job.
 
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skeer

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The reason for the question… was that I don’t have much in the way of liquid funding to throw at a project with no definite purpose.

So the thought, however fleeting (?), was I could sell the gears to help get a good carriage gear set. BEE06D3D-7B2A-40FE-9ED1-AA97F1E711CA.png
 
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RaisedByWolves

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skeer said:
The reason for the question… was that I don’t have much in the way of liquid funding to throw at a project with no definite purpose.

So the thought, however fleeting (?), was I could sell the gears to help get a good carriage gear set.
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I would say that would be a long shot, but its more like a long long shot.
 
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firebirdparts

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I say No. When you turn something to be round, I mean a cylinder, you don't need a steady hand to cut that. You don't touch that. You just need patience not to break the tool. Motorized crossfeed does not result in accuracy, obviously. That's just a train wreck waiting to happen. Tapering using a taper attachment doesn't rely on power. Threading is not done using power feed, that requires the half nut (you be the judge here about what you meant). So I think it's really just to rest the operator's hand for a minute.
 
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kaymccampbell

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Yup. You need a steady hand, and good eye. My current lathe n mill are totally hand operated. No gearing at all. I make plenty of useful, precision parts with it. You do learn the lesson about the best being the enemy of the good.
 
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RaisedByWolves

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Went back to OPs other thread to see if there was a pic of the apron to verify power feeds or not and couldn't find anything.

I had a similar lathe decades ago and Im pretty sure the banjo sets all feeds/speeds/threading, then the saddle and crossfeed are powered through the same mechanism with the PTO being done via a keyed gear and a keyway on the lead screw.

Still trying to wrap me head around a non powered taper attachment.

Taper attachment. Go to 9:22 for the pertinent part.

 
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alfadan

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The Atlas 10f does have power crossfeed. I would not get rid of any gears.

Slow down working on it and save some money.
 
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RaisedByWolves

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alfadan said:
The Atlas 10f does have power crossfeed. I would not get rid of any gears.

Slow down working on it and save some money.
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I had the 9” craftsman but I figured it was the same basic design.

Yeah OP treat this as a marathon rather than a sprint and you will save money in the long run.
 
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skeer

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To be fair, Yeah I am seemingly sprinting to get this done. I don’t have a deadline or a real reason other than that’s my SOP for most things. If not I lose momentum and interest.
And yeah I wasn’t talking about motorized carriage feed, I likely used the wrong words there. It’s the motorized back and forth on the lead screw.
The current state of the apron’s gear box is such that I don’t want to reassemble it as-is for fear of it breaking further.
Previous owner appears to have tried extra pins to hold things in place but for whatever reason they’re gone now.

The one bolt hole tab from a previous pic is broken off. Upon closer inspection I found a couple cracks in the corner that kinda scare me and might be harder to reinforce than the tab is.
 
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firebirdparts

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If the lead screw doesn't turn, you can do whatever you want to except thread. Threading is pretty important. On anything else, if you stop to drink coffee it'll wait on you.
 
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skeer

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Oh Im expecting the lead screw will turn, but the integral part now is the gears between the apron/carriage and the bed. Being able to rotate the knob and move the carriage is the current issue.
 
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RaisedByWolves

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Zeke said:
Well the lock must be tight. Or the half nut is closed.
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The bracket that holds the gears is toast. He can’t even spin the saddle pinion with the hand wheel to move anything.

Well, he could presumably stand there and turn the handle for S&G I guess.

Can’t blame anyone for misinterpreting anything though, op has like eight threads going on this and I can’t member where the pics are.:beer:
 
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RaisedByWolves

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skeer said:
No no.. it's the fact that the gear box has a broken piece and crack in another spot. I haven't yet risked assembling that stuff.
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Lol, co posted.

That is the one critical part in this whole works that needs to be strong.

Spend cash on that part, don’t fix. That part gives and takes forces from different directions and if it fails it can cause more damage than what you already have.
 
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skeer

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Zeke said:
I'm lost....
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So the lead screw itself is fine, once the JB and paint dry on the fwd/rev gear box then it'll be reinstalled along with the feed gears. But the gear case that's screwed into the carriage apron that the lead screw passes through is what's faulty right now. Without it, the lead screw cannot move the carriage, nor can I by spinning the handwheel.
 
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alfadan

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skeer said:
So the lead screw itself is fine, once the JB and paint dry on the fwd/rev gear box then it'll be reinstalled along with the feed gears. But the gear case that's screwed into the carriage skirt that the lead screw passes through is what's faulty right now. Without it, the lead screw cannot move the carriage, nor can I by spinning the handwheel.
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Fyi, it's called an apron.👍
 
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whateg01

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I might suggest reading up on the correct terminology for the various lathe parts. It would make it a lot easier for others to help you. Motorized feed implies to me an electronic lead screw. But it looks like you are just referring to power feed. Same with the cross feed. By skirt, I am hoping you mean apron. I guess if I read your other threads others have referred to, maybe it would make more sense, but as this is, a lot of it is as clear as firebird's post.
 
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WhoWhatNow

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What you need is the traverse gear case. There are typically used ones on eBay, but I would buy the aluminum reproduction:

www.mymachineshop.net

NEW ATLAS CRAFTSMAN 10-12 INCH LATHE 10F-11 TRAVERSE GEAR CASE

MyMachineShop.Net offers machinist tools and tooling with a specialty in Atlas Craftsman Lathes ans Milling Machines. Starrett, Mitutoyo and other fine tools. Atlas lathe parts and Accessories especially for the Home Shop Machinist and industry. Many parts not listed from my large inventory...
www.mymachineshop.net
 
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skeer

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whateg01 said:
I might suggest reading up on the correct terminology for the various lathe parts. It would make it a lot easier for others to help you. Motorized feed implies to me an electronic lead screw. But it looks like you are just referring to power feed. Same with the cross feed. By skirt, I am hoping you mean apron. I guess if I read your other threads others have referred to, maybe it would make more sense, but as this is, a lot of it is as clear as firebird's post.
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Also totally fair. except to me power feed would more elude to electronic versus motorized. But potato, potahto.

Was reading about Semantic Dementia the other day. The older I get the more word substitution happens.
 
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skeer

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WhoWhatNow said:
What you need is the traverse gear case. There are typically used ones on eBay, but I would buy the aluminum reproduction:

www.mymachineshop.net

NEW ATLAS CRAFTSMAN 10-12 INCH LATHE 10F-11 TRAVERSE GEAR CASE

MyMachineShop.Net offers machinist tools and tooling with a specialty in Atlas Craftsman Lathes ans Milling Machines. Starrett, Mitutoyo and other fine tools. Atlas lathe parts and Accessories especially for the Home Shop Machinist and industry. Many parts not listed from my large inventory...
www.mymachineshop.net
Click to expand...
Yuuup, that's what I'm eyeing for sure. Too bad the parts manual doesn't call it that.
 
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