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Laundry closet door height

branimal

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May 31, 2016
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I'm framing a laundry closet for a stacked washer dryer. The specs say the stacked height is 79 1/2". Should I go with a 80" door or a 84" door? All my interior doors are 80". The laundry closet is off in a "recess" in the apartment, so it's not in direct view when you walk into the apartment. So having a non-matching door size isn't super obvious.


The extra 4" might make installation easier. The extra 4" also allows me to install a shelf just above the dryer. Now getting a bottle of detergent off that shelf will require some finagling.
 
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larry4406

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Our Eletrolux stacked washer/dryer fit just fine in our laundry closet via the 80" standard height door. They installed the washer first in the drain pan then set the dryer on top.

Check your specs on the units regarding ventilation. We have a solid panel double door on our laundry closet. I had to add a transfer grille above the door per the manual since the closet volume is on the small size (~5.5' wide, ~28" deep, 8' ceiling) and I did not want to install a louver door.
 

mike93lx

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An 80" door is only 79 1/2 due to the door stop and could be less if there's a bi-fold track on top. No decision.
But the door slab is also not touching the floor. You should still have 80+" of opening if it's a hinged door.

The doors in my house are 80.5-81" from floor to the stop
 
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Zeke

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But the door slab is also not touching the floor. You should still have 80+" of opening if it's a hinged door.

The doors in my house are 80.5-81" from floor to the stop
I thought about that after I posted. Full bound frames usually are 80" net, sill to head jamb. Interior jamb sets are usually 81 1/2 OA. Usually RO's are 82. So, the measurement from finish floor (w/o any covering) to the top of jamb inside will be 80 3/4" plus any stop or track. Let's call that 80" estimated since we don't know the floor condition.

That's still close enough that if I had a choice going in, I'd put in a 7' door.

BTW, my business for 25 years was sales and installation of doors and windows. Before that, room adds and tenant improvements. I tell people I've installed or hung over a 1000 doors and 4000 windows. Solo.
 

mike93lx

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I thought about that after I posted. Full bound frames usually are 80" net, sill to head jamb. Interior jamb sets are usually 81 1/2 OA. Usually RO's are 82. So, the measurement from finish floor (w/o any covering) to the top of jamb inside will be 80 3/4" plus any stop or track. Let's call that 80" estimated since we don't know the floor condition.

That's still close enough that if I had a choice going in, I'd put in a 7' door.

BTW, my business for 25 years was sales and installation of doors and windows. Before that, room adds and tenant improvements. I tell people I've installed or hung over a 1000 doors and 4000 windows. Solo.

I'd do 84" as well.

But my numbers were with a tape measure, on actual doors. Finished floor to the inside of the stop. Not a calculation.
 

Zeke

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Mike, if you have 81" to the face of the stop, you have some tall jambs. The framers on your house must have been generous. On new construction I might leave an eighth at the bottom of each jamb leg just so it's not touching concrete. But no more because the floor covering could be vinyl. The vinyl guys probably liked me. :ROFLMAO:
 

mike93lx

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Mike, if you have 81" to the face of the stop, you have some tall jambs. The framers on your house must have been generous. On new construction I might leave an eighth at the bottom of each jamb leg just so it's not touching concrete. But no more because the floor covering could be vinyl. The vinyl guys probably liked me. :ROFLMAO:
Generous on the doors, but a ****** drywall job offsets it all. The crew that taped this house need a better vision plan
 
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