Laundry Enclosure Not QUITE Deep Enough

[lbmcse]

Sorry if this is the wrong forum. Doesn't fit anywhere else it seems.

I'm replacing the washer and dryer in my "laundry room;" a rectangular enclosure just big enough for the machines. It has the two typical accordion doors in the front.

The place was built about 15 years ago, and seems W/D's have grown by a few inches. I have looked at everything that's available to me. There are a few prospects, but they're very cheap, and I'm not looking to cheap out.

The dilemma is a lack of depth. Side by side, most W/D combo's will fit, but they'd come out too far and block the doors.

If I could cheat an inch or so, I might have possibilities. If I could re-route the dryer vent to the side, that would work too--but I don't think so. The existing doors are mounted flush with the front, so I can't move the top track forward any.

Are there any alternatives to these doors? Going without doors isn't an option, neither are pocket doors. I'm stumped.

 

[p_mori7]

There are shallow depth machines out there (27" rather than 31").

What are the dimensions of the space you have ?

What size machines did you have in there before ?

 

[buddyboy]

does the dryer vent pipe coming out the back of your dryer line up with the pipe going out the wall?

if it has to take 90 degree turn to the left/right/up/down then another 90 out the wall, you could recover an inch or two by lining up the holes.

mine did not line up but I just wanted to save space so to get it another inch or two closer to the wall I used one of these:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Whirlpool-0-18-in-Dryer-Periscope-4396037RP/202204728

good luck

 

[Mark118]

You can get washer supply lines with right angle fittings. You can also use the knock-out on the side of the dryer to vent it that way. (a simple 4" elbow and short pipe will be much cheaper than the manufacturer's kit)....if any of that gives you the clearance you need.

 

[hawkeye2]

you could replace the doors with curtains.

 

[66HertzClone]

We had our laundry room relocated to the second floor, I used one of these to recess the dryer vent and gas supply line into the wall to save space.

The vent continues through the wall into the attic and then through the roof. I purchased a Dryer Jack to vent it on the roof. I used four toilet mounting flanges and a section of 4" smooth dryer vent to make an easy way to clean the vent. A flange on either end of a three foot long section of the vent tube, and a flange on the lower and upper vents in the attic. I can remove the center section and use a vent brush on the extensions to clean the vent when needed. Here is how it ended up looking.

 

[workhurts]

A picture would definitely help and maybe knowing what kind of construction you are dealing with. Drywall? Concrete? Cinder block?

Most people I know have their dryers stick out more than washers because of the vent. It looks stupid. As others have said, you can come out the side. If that's not an option you can buy a kit to recess where the it meets up with the wall so you can push your dryer back flush.

If you are doing this just based on measurements then you may already be taking into account getting everything flush with the back wall. For the washer supply lines 90 degree fittings would help.

There has to be something out there that will work for you. Are you doing top loading washer dryers or are you doing front loading?

I wouldn't do a curtain unless this thing was in an unfinished basement of some kind. Don't forget you might have baseboard and 1/4 round too .. you could take that off to gain a little bit.

 

[lbmcse]

Thanks for the replies, all. This is a single story condominium, it's the second floor. The dryer flue is located on the side of the enclosure; which is 63" wide (door jambs are 60" wide) and 27" deep. The machines combined width is 54" and they sit between the bump-outs from the door jambs (hope that makes sense), allowing them to sit 25 5/8" from the back wall. The measurement from the back wall to the back of the accordion door is 30".

The dimensions of the existing machines is:
Washer: 25 5/8" deep, by 26 7/8" wide.
Dryer: 24 1/2" deep, by 26 7/8 wide.

The dryer comes off the back wall quite a bit to allow the existing rear exhaust to make a 90to the dryer vent hookup on the right side of the enclosure. The washer is pushed a bit forward for appearance, as they line up in the front.

I'm looking at the Maytag Centennial pair, Washer is 27.5" wide, 27" deep. Dryer is 29" wide, 27 13/16 deep. I think I'd be OK as long as I can re-route the dryer vent to the side. 90 degree fitting for the washer might not even be necessary, as the machines are both sitting quite a bit forward only because of the dryer's venting.

Keep the ideas coming, all. It is MUCH appreciated.

 

[Leaflessshadetree]

Have you considered moving the front frame or even the whole enclosure forward? It shouldn't be difficult to trim out the edges.

 

[workhurts]

Just make sure the vent can come off of whatever side you need it to come off of. Dimensions seem like they would work if you can just shift the vent.

 

[rsanter]

What about the back wall behind the units?
Is it a supporting wall?
Can it be moved back?
Can you remove the drywall and replace with thin paneling?

Bob

 

[Charles (in GA)]

Many dryers have 4 inch knockouts in the sides of them. Looks like the knockouts on electrical boxes. You might not even notice them unless you look close.

I have a one piece stack unit, the largest one they made at the time (1994). Its a Sears, but they and Whirlpool still sell that same unit. It is a smaller drum and washer tub however, and cannot do large comforters and such. Works fine for me however.

Charles

 

[lbmcse]

Thanks again, all. I would have responded sooner, but this is a rental unit, and I spent all day removing tile at the entry--the tenant trashed the place. I had a lot of time to think while sweating my %*# off, and I might just sandwich the top (where the door buttons ride) with a 2x4 in front, and one in back, through-bolted for stability, and rip a piece of plywood to cover the bottom of the 2-by's. I'll hang the new door track from this frame, and build up the front with drywall. This will allow me to move the doors almost 3 1/2" forward, which will solve my problem without extensive rebuilding.

The 2x4" in the front will sit longways front to back. I'll countersink the through-bolts. When finished, it'll be ROCK solid.

Of course, I'll buy the washer and dryer first, and only do this if they won't fit the existing depth.

Thanks, all!