Laundry Room Highrise Idea

[Danestar]

Before you read the garage is being completely redone. Sheetrock, Elec, Paint etc. but this is early stages of other things in the way.

We live in Northern CA and our house is platform due to grade on slope(~4Ft clearance under house). So by the images you can see we have issues with our laundry area. Currently you have to walk down stairs and around just to get to it and really becomes a pain when taking out the laundry. So I have sketched up a very rough idea to sell to my wife that would make things a tad easier for everyone. Pending this is even possible

The wall that houses the water heater is on an exterior wall and is also the area for dryer vent. I plan to redo plumbing and move outlets to wall as well which should be an issue. I do plan on framing up to ceiling with a door leading into the laundry room.

With the framing as a platform does anyone see any issues with this? Will I need a floor drain? Elec or Plumbing issues? Framing on Garage floor to existing house ok? Please share your thoughts or concerns.

Reasons to add
Segragate Garage/Shop dust from clothing drying
Floor level
Ease of use
Storage area underneath.
Area for wife to keep laundry things tiddy
Storage for crafts for kids
Laundry sink closer to Wash/Dryer
Complete build out of cabinets and floor

Concerns
Platform on garage floor
Plumbing relocating
Water heater loaction
Overall Size
Floor drain needed?

Attached is the actual image (obviously I didnt clean up before hand to show the real mess at hand)

And two of the build idea in sketchup that I used to sell to the wife. VERY ROUGH. I am redoing drawing with framing, plumbing, and electrical. (Adding a 125A Sub to house Garage circuits only Thread Started Here)

EDIT 1/25/13 : Image Links vs loading them...

Laundry Room Framing Layout
<img src="http://www.thearthurfam.com/garagebuild/1.jpg" height="597" width="900">

Garage Rough Layout with Laundryroom highrise.
<img src="http://www.thearthurfam.com/garagebuild/2.jpg" height="597" width="900">

Rough Layout
<img src="http://www.thearthurfam.com/garagebuild/3.jpg" height="597" width="900">

<img src="http://www.thearthurfam.com/garagebuild/4.jpg" height="597" width="900">

<img src="http://www.thearthurfam.com/garagebuild/5.jpg" height="597" width="900">

 

[toymn6366]

i have seen alot of houses with garage laundry rooms built up like you are talking about

 

[barks]

There sure is a lot going on around what I take to be a gas water heater.

 

[kbs2244]

Go for it.

Years ago everyone, including the wife, thought I was nuts for putting the laundry on the second floor.
My reasoning?
“That is where the laundry is.
Now days the machines are automatic and you don’t have to be there and baby sit them.”

Now I see them in the upstairs hallway closet of tract homes.

An emergency tray with a drain never hurts.
But I think it is one of those over sold things.
The washing machines these days have a lot of safety switches in them.
If you do it you don’t have to be fancy.
Just run the drain hose over near the floor drain.

 

[Danestar]

There sure is a lot going on around what I take to be a gas water heater.

The idea is to enclose the water heater inside a closet. The garage is a disaster right now and somewhat degrades what is being planned. The person we purchased the house from was a professional painter and has the sink separating the workbench and water heater. Its all getting moved. The clutter is killing me.

 

[qdvuu]

It would be nice if you could replace the tall water heater with a shorty and put it under the washer/dryer platform.

 

[srmofo]

The idea is to enclose the water heater inside a closet. The garage is a disaster right now and somewhat degrades what is being planned. The person we purchased the house from was a professional painter and has the sink separating the workbench and water heater. Its all getting moved. The clutter is killing me.

Where does that water heater draw its combustion air from? If its a cheaper less efficient model(which it does not appear to be) they pull the air from inside the home. If its a higher efficiency they usually pull the air from outside. Im no expert it is just what I have noticed from shopping for my heater

This should be taken into consideration if you are putting it into a closet.

Make sure the platform you are building is up to par (ie no wimpy 2x4s for the joists, or 7/17 OSb for the floor)....water is heavy and your washer will be full of it.

You could also make some pretty neat "pull out" storage lockers under that platform. Basically just some very large drawers on wheels. You can just pile the stuff on it or size it to fit several of the storage bins. Then just roll it under the platform to put it out of sight

 

[Boomer343]

I'd plan ahead for the day someone puts a front load washer onto your floor. Run the floor joists across the units and under where the laundry units are I'd space them
8" on center up to 32 inches out from the wall. I'd also add blocking between the joists and glue and screw them in place.

You should also put in a drain system that can handle high water volumes, most new washers drain fast and you have to have a loop in the drain hose.

 

[Danestar]

I'd plan ahead for the day someone puts a front load washer onto your floor. Run the floor joists across the units and under where the laundry units are I'd space them
8" on center up to 32 inches out from the wall. I'd also add blocking between the joists and glue and screw them in place.

You should also put in a drain system that can handle high water volumes, most new washers drain fast and you have to have a loop in the drain hose.

Good idea and thanks for specific widths (framing is new to me). I designed it around front loaders. Also the door and stair width needed the spacing to get them in. As for the floor drain I am thinking I am going to add one and add 12" tile floor and slope it to center. The drain run off extends the length of the house to the opposite side and will be fairly easy to add. Better now than later.

You could also make some pretty neat "pull out" storage lockers under that platform. Basically just some very large drawers on wheels. You can just pile the stuff on it or size it to fit several of the storage bins. Then just roll it under the platform to put it out of sight

My parents house in Dallas had it in a closet and had a vent (AC Return I think) on the bottom area of the door where air could flow in an out. I assume this is sufficient air flow.

The funny thing about the water heater was the last one went out and was ecstatic to get a tankless. However my wife concern with cost decided to get the home insurance company to just replace the tank. I was working alot and couldn't control it... So I may actually sell it and replace with tankless. It will allow me some time to install one (somewhere else) as well. The stainless steel exhaust is a pretty penny though. But I like your idea of the roll out and will add to the base. Also if I remove the water heater I could always hide the compressor there. (Ingersol Rand T10)

 

[Klammer]

Make sure you over build so it is sturdy enough for a front load. We have a 2nd floor laundry room and it sounds and feels like there's an apache helicopter hovering over the house when its on spin cycle.

 

[Frank The Plumber]

The water heater will need to be in a closet with a 2 hour coating and 12" of space on each side. Vented louver doors so it can draw air for combustion. This looks like a basic natural flue heater to me and so it pulls ambient for combustion. The shorty is brutally expensive, I'd pass on it. Why not just take the area and make a closet and leave the existing door alone? It will not be great walking past the laundry all the time, just isolate it and raise the space and closet it into the house with bifold doors. Swing the machines around 180 and rework the piping. Most likely what you want to do is just as much work. Theres a lot of stuff in that wall you want to cut a door opening into.

 

[Danestar]

The water heater will need to be in a closet with a 2 hour coating and 12" of space on each side. Vented louver doors so it can draw air for combustion. This looks like a basic natural flue heater to me and so it pulls ambient for combustion. The shorty is brutally expensive, I'd pass on it. Why not just take the area and make a closet and leave the existing door alone? It will not be great walking past the laundry all the time, just isolate it and raise the space and closet it into the house with bifold doors. Swing the machines around 180 and rework the piping. Most likely what you want to do is just as much work. Theres a lot of stuff in that wall you want to cut a door opening into.

No the wall with the door will be added on as an extension to the house extending into the garage. The other side of the washer and dryer is the kitchen. The water heater is somewhat in the way of what I would like to do. Having the shorty will allow me to hang it high out of the way behind an open top cabinet.

 

[Weekend_warrior]

I would move the the doors around. I would change what is shown in image one. Extend the hall way out into the new addition. Loose the door that currently opens into the garage. That way at the end of the hall you would have a door that leads to laundry on the right and one that leads out directly to the steps on the left. As the plans show currently you would have to come out to the garage then close the door and then open the one into the landry door entry. All with a basket in hand. If you extended the hallway you would save one door opening. Just reloacate the current garage to internal door around to the new garage entry (directly at the top of the steps). A pocket door to the Laundry room would also be cool. That way the door is not in the way maximizing space. If it gets to noisy you could still close it off. Leave it open for collect the landuary and getting in the room. That way you just go to the end of the hall and turn in... No door opening required. You may need to reframe the steps to add a little landing infront of the door. Also handly when you have a ton of things in your hand and your fumbling for the knob. (like coming in with gorceries at night).

Definatly a pan for the washer with a drain leading to to the currenty pain drain on the water heater and one that fore that as well.

Also, how about you elimate the tank althogether and go with a tankless. A little more expensive up front, but the long run will likely pay off. That and it will not take up as much space.

Also, make an opening to where you can access the plumbing under the floor and maybe a some extra under stairs and floor storage (X-mas stuff and other seasonal use items.

 

[KEH]

After many years, the water supply hose to our washer broke and we had a flood in the house. Washer in closet at kitchen. New washer gor stainless steel braid reinforced water hoses. My bad, I didn't know the hoses wore out.

KEH

 

[Danestar]

Ok so the build out is almost done. Not a pro at sheet rock and have to redo some areas. Oh well first time at it and had some constraints. Wife only allowed me to have Washer and Dryer down for two days to allow me to frame out floor. She doesn't feel its a top priority but I know she is loving it now... Here are some of the image from build out. Please comment as this is first for me on framing, sheet rock and electrical which now loving the fact I know it enough to add outlets etc around the house without getting shocked and or causing a fire. I got a little over confident trying to cut a live wire and wont do that again but knew it was live. Only screwed up my wire cutter... Def woke me up.

Build out update:

Gutting with little room I had to work with...
<img src="http://www.thearthurfam.com/garagebuild/6.jpg" width="900">

Starting framing out.
<img src="http://www.thearthurfam.com/garagebuild/7.jpg" width="900">

<img src="http://www.thearthurfam.com/garagebuild/8.jpg" width="900">

<img src="http://www.thearthurfam.com/garagebuild/9.jpg" width="900">

<img src="http://www.thearthurfam.com/garagebuild/10.jpg" width="900">

<img src="http://www.thearthurfam.com/garagebuild/11.jpg" width="900">

My two day rule was running out. Hauled back up with a dolly... Pain...
<img src="http://www.thearthurfam.com/garagebuild/12.jpg" width="900">

Cleaned up old electrical and plumbing to higher washer location.
<img src="http://www.thearthurfam.com/garagebuild/13.jpg" width="900">

Here you can see where existing stairs were vs new build out.
<img src="http://www.thearthurfam.com/garagebuild/14.jpg" width="900">

<img src="http://www.thearthurfam.com/garagebuild/15.jpg" width="900">

<img src="http://www.thearthurfam.com/garagebuild/16.jpg" width="900">

Old stairs
<img src="http://www.thearthurfam.com/garagebuild/17.jpg" width="900">

<img src="http://www.thearthurfam.com/garagebuild/18.jpg" width="900">

<img src="http://www.thearthurfam.com/garagebuild/19.jpg" width="900">

<img src="http://www.thearthurfam.com/garagebuild/20.jpg" width="900">

<img src="http://www.thearthurfam.com/garagebuild/21.jpg" width="900">

<img src="http://www.thearthurfam.com/garagebuild/22.jpg" width="900">

Yes my dry wall skills are bad... But had to do it with washer and dryer still in area...
<img src="http://www.thearthurfam.com/garagebuild/23.jpg" width="900">

<img src="http://www.thearthurfam.com/garagebuild/24.jpg" width="900">

Critique comment etc.
Thanks
Tim

 

[Cars&Classic]

with the size of master closets these days as a realtor I see more and more people putting laundry in the master closet since that is wher 90% of the clothes come from and return to anyway. or another popular thing on new construction is a door from the master closet to the laundry when possible.

 

[Danestar]

Ahhh that reminds me I forgot to note we decided against the door all together. So when you walk out is open air to laundry room. Adding a dust filtration system and dust vac to wood working tools which should keep it from getting into laundry area. However any clean clothes in laundry room should be in the house not in garage.

 

[Kevin_b_c]

Great job!
I noticed in your original plans, you were going to close the area in and have a door. Looks like you'll have to modify your framing a bit for that to happen.

EDIT: You replied while I was replying. Haha. Nevermind my question.

 

[buddyboy]

looks good.

only suggestion is to add joist hangers to your floor joists where they attach to the house side, or just put a 2X 'ledge' under those floor joists if you haven't already done so.

in the pictures it looks like just nails are holding up that side of your new floor.

 

[Kevin_b_c]

looks good.

only suggestion is to add joist hangers to your floor joists where they attach to the house side, or just put a 2X 'ledge' under those floor joists if you haven't already done so.

in the pictures it looks like just nails are holding up that side of your new floor.

From the looks of it, they are resting on half the top plate of the back support wall.

 

[buddyboy]

yeah that one looks good, this is the one i was referring to:

 

[kbs2244]

Confidence builder isn’t it?

 

[buddyboy]

i also just noticed that top step is only 2" ???? is there a stair tread going on top of the plywood?

 

[buddyboy]

Confidence builder isn’t it?

a lot of my early projects were saved with enough nails, screws, and PL Glue

 

[Danestar]

From the looks of it, they are resting on half the top plate of the back support wall.
Image

It is resting on top on the 2x4 framing which is attached to wall along with 2x6 joists. The framing has the metal brackets attached original framing and nailed into concrete.

The thing doesn't move with me trying and during spin cycles when washer goes nuts when we overload it. Cant hear it in house either...

Did I do it wrong?

i also just noticed that top step is only 2" ???? is there a stair tread going on top of the plywood?

Nice catch... Yes first time doing stairs and missed it by one inch. I thought it was right but adding another piece of the 1" sub floor to top to even it out. I am finishing with hard wood when I can get to that portion.

Unless your talking about entrance to door?

yeah that one looks good, this is the one i was referring to:

Image

Should I have additional support? I replaced the hanger on the wall but was more or less the original support.

 

[buddyboy]

your floor under your washer looks good, it's the floor under your door I was referring to.

if it were me I'd tack up a 2x4 against your ledger and under those floor joists just for fun

 

[Danestar]

your floor under your washer looks good, it's the floor under your door I was referring to.

Image

if it were me I'd tack up a 2x4 against your ledger and under those floor joists just for fun

Oh I missed that for sure. Doing it tonight... Thanks!

 

[mayday0017]

Man I wish I had a crawl space like that! I would have a way to get my air compressor under there with a fan to wired to a switch for those days when I am using it enough to get the area heat soaked. Then other days I would just enjoy the quietness of my garage!

 

[JakeKohl]

that last inch on the stair is a real trip hazard (up and down). I've also learned (the hard way) that building a quick story pole really helps prove out your stair dimensions. Take a 2x4 (or whatever) the height of your stairs. Mark the rises on the pole, check that it actually works out.

 

[Danestar]

Man I wish I had a crawl space like that! I would have a way to get my air compressor under there with a fan to wired to a switch for those days when I am using it enough to get the area heat soaked. Then other days I would just enjoy the quietness of my garage!

The was the original goal take above airspace and move underneath. Cleared my storage unit as selling point to start garage project to wife...

that last inch on the stair is a real trip hazard (up and down). I've also learned (the hard way) that building a quick story pole really helps prove out your stair dimensions. Take a 2x4 (or whatever) the height of your stairs. Mark the rises on the pole, check that it actually works out.

Not sure I follow the pole thing will have to dig it up. As far as that last inch. I actually added another piece of 1" subfloor. I am installing hardwood on top when I end up doing the inside of the house.

 

[elav]

I understand that you have decided not to enclose the laundry area with a door, making it a closet within the garage, but have you thought about perhaps adding a wall along the stairway and putting a door at the bottom of the stairs? This will help with garage dust issues and will most likely keep the laundry area warmer than the garage.

 

[Danestar]

I understand that you have decided not to enclose the laundry area with a door, making it a closet within the garage, but have you thought about perhaps adding a wall along the stairway and putting a door at the bottom of the stairs? This will help with garage dust issues and will most likely keep the laundry area warmer than the garage.

We did and at one point were going to do a pocket door at top to create the closet setting. The door at the bottom wouldn't feel right. We decided on finished railing which a ways out but handrail on top will be walnut and garage ceiling will be finished out with siding finished with a grey aging color. Obviously its far from finished but getting there.

 

[CNGsaves]

Just discovered this thread and like your solution to make better use of floorspace in garage by building the raised platform.

This may be too late, but did you consider also plumbing the back wall for washer/dryer so that you would have option of NATURAL GAS dryer? Reason I ask is you have NG hot water heater right there and it would be piece of cake to run NG line over there. NG dryer much cheaper to operate in general as compared to electric.

Alternatively, before you close up the underside of platform, you could just run black pipe steel NG supply line over to that area and stub up through the floor right next to the wall. Just have enough of black pipe up above floor for a shutoff valve to be attached. From there, you would just need a flexpipe to the dryer. The dripleg for NG supply line would be down below the platform.

Also would recommend closing in "utility room" space to prevent garage activites (dust/paint fumes/etc) from getting to your clothes. Putting insulation in all those walls also a good idea just for sound proofing.

Finally, don't forget worst case scenario if the hot water heater blows the bypass valve so I'd run piping to direct that water somewhere that it won't ruin all the work you've done.

 

[Danestar]

Just discovered this thread and like your solution to make better use of floorspace in garage by building the raised platform.

This may be too late, but did you consider also plumbing the back wall for washer/dryer so that you would have option of NATURAL GAS dryer? Reason I ask is you have NG hot water heater right there and it would be piece of cake to run NG line over there. NG dryer much cheaper to operate in general as compared to electric.

Alternatively, before you close up the underside of platform, you could just run black pipe steel NG supply line over to that area and stub up through the floor right next to the wall. Just have enough of black pipe up above floor for a shutoff valve to be attached. From there, you would just need a flexpipe to the dryer. The dripleg for NG supply line would be down below the platform.

Also would recommend closing in "utility room" space to prevent garage activites (dust/paint fumes/etc) from getting to your clothes. Putting insulation in all those walls also a good idea just for sound proofing.

Finally, don't forget worst case scenario if the hot water heater blows the bypass valve so I'd run piping to direct that water somewhere that it won't ruin all the work you've done.

Thank you. I looked into NG previously but didnt see much of a price difference and they are somewhat of a rare breed in Northern CA. Most everyone that I know have elect. I will look into again to see if something has changed. As far as the plumbing I will finish out the underneath but wanted to get garage square first. Everything is still open down there in the "cave" until I can finish all elec work I have about 4ft of crawl space under the house with easy access under the washer and dryer. I'm still tossing around installing a sub panel in the garage which will require me to run line to current box on opposite side of the house.

The WH has the overflow drain going out behind it currently. I have decided to install a tankless WH on the other end of the house which will free up the space. And be quicker to get hot water as bathrooms are on that end of the house.

I am insulating the walls however we both want the room open. With dust collection system and an added filtration system I don't see it being an issue. Dust isn't a current issue even without the filtration system.