Laying block foundation

[Blown454ss]

First post here I know but I've been reading a lot. Has anyone done their own block foundation? I did my own poured trench footings. We have a family friend that owns a masonry company but is over a month out on it and is more than I really want to spend. It's 28'x34' and I only want 2 courses. I know the corners are the hardest part. It's only 186 blocks lol. Just not really sure if I'm over thinking it

 

[justind]

As long as you get your corners in correctly so the building ends up square it is not that hard. To lay 200 block you will want a couple people helping, one to help lay and one to tend the mixer it will make your life much easier with help. Good mud consistency makes a huge difference in laying the block not to thick because it doesn't bond as well and if it is to thin the blocks will sink in the mud so you wont get the wall level. Learned a lot about block walls tending for my foundation install, I wish I only had to do 2 courses.

 

[Blown454ss]

Thanks for the feedback. I'm looking at buying a used mixer if I end up doing this, but yes I will deff. have help

 

[Rosco]

Make sure to lay the corners first and make them true. Run a string and use a 4' level. Use extra concrete to fill the lower 4" of every bottom block. Fill the corners and every 4' of cavity with concrete at a minimum. Use J-bolts imbedded in the concrete to bolt down the framing bottom plate, ensuring they are deep enough and close enough together to meet code.

I would also recommend a termite barrier between the block and bottom sill plate, as well as a thick bead of caulk between termite barrier and plate.

 

[volleyball]

Lay the blocks dry and that way you can see where they go. You can use scraps of 3/8" plywood as a spacer. Are you going to use cap blocks?
You don't need help. Get a mixing pail and do 1 bag at a time, or even a half bag.

 

[sbarshie]

I did it was an undertaking to say the least. The building was 30'x40' and I had zero experience doing this. I figured by the time I got out of the ground I'd be pretty good at it and I was right.

This building was 5 courses with three below grade. The whole thing was level and square within 1/2 an inch.

Everyday after work I'd come home and mix 3 bags of morter, then get one row of one course done. Between the wall and footers it took me a month to get out of the ground.

While it was a good project I will not be doing it again anytime soon.
Enjoy and don't be in a hurry!

 

[tlmartin84]

A trick I learned when placing block:

Use a 2x4 (plumbed vertical), place kickers on it to hold it perfectly vertical. Fasten a hanger to the bottom end and screw it to the foundation so that the inside corner of the 2x4 is exactly at the corner of the building. Mark off a line on each corner 2x4 using a construction level, then mark off each course in 8" increments on the 2x4.

If you do this, you can pull your string from 2x4 to 2x4. If you set the block so its outside corner is right at the course line and flush with the edge of the 2x4it assures you that the corner blocks are straight and square.

It is a little extra effort but it makes keeping the corners square much easier for me.

 

[tlmartin84]

View media item 43318

 

[Kevin54]

Make sure you strike your joints. I've seen so many foundation on here where the joints aren't struck, and it just makes for a tacky job, especially when they are OUT of the ground.

For the top course, use a termite block. That way you won's have to use a netal termite shield. All you will need to use is a foam seal.

I've helped lay block over the years, mostly mixing the mortar, and carrying the block. I never knew until about ten years ago, while we were putting a new porch on a friends house, I asked the block layer why they do the corners first...... To hold the string.....I never ever gave that a thought. DUH!!!!!:tard:

 

[theoldwizard1]

...For the top course, use a termite block. ..

Okay, what is a "termite block" ? Google doesn't have any good images. (Termites are almost non-existent in MI)

 

[volleyball]

I think it is what is known as a cap block, looks like a solid block on top but on the bottom, looks like a hollow block
For laying rows, there are those guides you lay on top of the end blocks and run a string across would be easier than the 2x4 method. But for 2 rows, would you bother?

 

[HoosierMark]

Have you considered using the stryofoam block forms? Several contractors around here use them and just pour the concrete into them and they are done. Simple to square and quick.

 

[Kevin54]

Okay, what is a "termite block" ? Google doesn't have any good images. (Termites are almost non-existent in MI)

I think it is what is known as a cap block, looks like a solid block on top but on the bottom, looks like a hollow block
For laying rows, there are those guides you lay on top of the end blocks and run a string across would be easier than the 2x4 method. But for 2 rows, would you bother?

Volleyball's hit it on the head. It keeps from having to fill all of your cores, plus the fact they keep termites from tunneling up through any voids.

I've seen a lot of people shove the mortar sacks into the cores, then fill the cores to save on concrete. Damp paper in a dark hole is like a smörgåsbord to termites. And if the concrete in the cores would happen to have a void, there is a chance they could work their way up to the good wood. Everyone things that if you lay down a treated lumber bottom plate, it will automatically stop termites. It won't. Termites have been known to build mud tunnels on the outside of a concrete foundation just to head out to a good meal.

 

[Fishplate]

Termites have been known to build mud tunnels on the outside of a concrete foundation just to head out to a good meal.

We had a block building built on a slab...interior framed with metal studs, finished with drywall. Termites came in and ate the chair rail halfway up the wall.

 

[Blown454ss]

Thanks for all the replies. I may have found some one to to it for $650 including the cost of the block but he's 2 weeks out

 

[justind]

That is cheap, if he is supplying the block and mud do it. I think I paid .95 a block or so for the 8's and 1.05 for the 6's on the top coarse. Mud was 3.50 a bag, I think it is 10 to 12 block per bag if there is little waste.

 

[Blown454ss]

It is cheap, I have to slug them and set the anchors but that's not going to bed to bad I don't think

 

[rburke65]

Write the check!

 

[ford33]

Setting block is hard work. Those guys earn their pay. If he does a good job a nice tip would be in order.