laying tile have a question

[383 240z]

The wife has FINALLY picked a tile!!! The floor is small, about 4'x6'. It has 2x10s for joists spaced 16" OC. Over that is 1" thick 3" wide T&G yellow pine boards. I have used 2 1/2" ring shank nails, 2 per board, per joist to re-attach the flooring.

Next I planned on putting down 1/2" plywood, nailed every 3". I am considering also running beads of construction adhesive (PL Premium, Liquid Nails) under the plywood. Is this a good idea? Over the plywood, I will be running thinset over the plywood, then laying Hardi-Board down with screws as per manufacturer spec's. More thinset, then the tile. It will be 6"x6" porcelain with 3/16" grout lines.

Does my plan sound right ?

Also, what purpose does the grout serve? Other than the asthetic? If it is purely for looks, can I use silicone from a tube rather than all the troweling and sponging? Thanks guys. Keith

 

[600SL]

I wouldn't run beads of liquid nails under the plywood and it may make air gaps that will allow the plywood to flex. If you want to run cement under there use something that applies like thin set.

 

[wildstyle]

Screw your plywood down, not nails.

 

[gregtwojeeps]

The wife has FINALLY picked a tile!!! The floor is small, about 4'x6'. It has 2x10s for joists spaced 16" OC. Over that is 1" thick 3" wide T&G yellow pine boards. I have used 2 1/2" ring shank nails, 2 per board, per joist to re-attach the flooring.

Next I planned on putting down 1/2" plywood, nailed every 3". I am considering also running beads of construction adhesive (PL Premium, Liquid Nails) under the plywood. Is this a good idea? Over the plywood, I will be running thinset over the plywood, then laying Hardi-Board down with screws as per manufacturer spec's. More thinset, then the tile. It will be 6"x6" porcelain with 3/16" grout lines.

Does my plan sound right ?

Also, what purpose does the grout serve? Other than the asthetic? If it is purely for looks, can I use silicone from a tube rather than all the troweling and sponging? Thanks guys. Keith

Opinions will vary greatly on this one, but I do not see the 1/2 doing much for adding any strength to the already 1 ' thick T&G. If anything it could become the weak layer in the system by warping or flexing between the joists. If it were mine I would screw down the concrete backer board and call it good....

If one did not like just having a 1 1/2 inch substrate floor under the tile, a sheet of 5/8 " PL glued on the joist line and screwed down on top of the T&G would be STRONG, if the adjoinig floors to the room would allow that much vertical height, so the threshold transition in the door will not be too high. Good luck and ALL JMO,

 

[383 240z]

Another thing that has me confused, do I just put the thinset right on the wood? I would think it would **** a bunch of the water out if the mortar, making it weak. Or am I over thinking this? I just really don't want to deal with cracked tiles. My other option is just running 6" wide white pine T&G flooring. It would look right, it's pretty low cost. I've just got a hang up with wood floors in a bathroom. Water damage and such. Keith

 

[slickgt1]

It is not about bonding the hardi to the wood. It is about filling in the voids. I too don't see a point of adding 1/2" ply over 1" T&G.

Use screws.

 

[Sovereign-1]

I would not bother with the extra plywood either but you may want to add more screws to your 1" subfloor. I would put a sheet of thin plastic between the plywood and your backerboard (1 mil) to make it easier to remove when the time comes and also to prevent the wood from absorbing all the moisture. The thinset as mentioned is only there to fill any voids between the subfloor and the cement board.

Grout is there to fill the voids inbetween the tile. If its not grout it will be dirt, hair, dust... you get the idea. Grouting is not the most fun thing to do but I would not suggest using caulk instead. I really can't tell you why but it just sounds wrong.

If you haven't found it yet google 'floor elf' the site is run by a tile guy and it has a lot of useful info and he even answers questions (no its not me). It helped me a lot when I was doing my first tile job.

 

[wildstyle]

Also the john bridge tile forum is excellent

Sent from my SGH-I747M using Tapatalk

 

[383 240z]

Thanks for the extra info guys. I ended up going with the wooden floor. I figured the original wooden floor lasted well over 175 years. I know that room was not always a bathroom, the oldest record I have of it being a bathroom was in 1920's, so that puts its closer to 90 years. Good enough for me. Keith