LCDI vs GFCI

[Paycheck]

I have a portable AC that works fine in the house but not in the garage.
AC unit has an LCDI and GFCI built into the plug. When I plug it into any plug with a GFCI, after a few minutes (usually when the compressor kicks in) it pops the GFCI on the outlet (just the outlet. The wine on the plug doesn’t pop). If I plug it into a non-GFCI circuit it runs fine. I replaced the power cord and it still does it. I had two dedicated 20 amp outlets installed in the garage just for high draw items like this. After the outlets were installed it started popping the GFCI, so the electrician replaced the plug (thinking maybe a weak one) and it worked fine for the rest of the year and into winter. Started it up again with the warmer weather and it resumed its bad behavior.
So why don’t LCDI’s and GFCI’s not get along?
This has happened with two identical AC units. I’ve ordered a third one from a different manufacturer to see if it continues.
And of course the manufacturer (Midea) is no help.
I appreciate any ideas folks!

 

[reader2580]

What is an LCDI? Midea is the largest manufacturer in the world of small appliances like window A/C units. They make appliances for many other brand names so that window A/C with a different brand on it may still be a Midea.

 

[Paycheck]

Kind of a GFCI on steriods: https://diy.stackexchange.com/quest...required-on-window-a-cs-but-not-anything-else
My unit is a Toshiba branded Midea.

 

[RPH]

Interesting device, the wires are shielded then that is watched for leakage. Partial insulation breaks or partial conductor breakage is caught with this device. Much more sensitive to leakage in the neutral to ground circuit.