To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Lead hammer my way

vintage nut

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 17, 2015
Messages
1,272
Location
west coast of canada
I was making some lead hammers today, and figured I might as well share how I do it.
First off, the mold. Yes, it's wood, pine actually. Hardly even charrs the wood when you pour it. Process for making it is to screw together two pieces of wood that fit against eachother perfectly, then use a drillpress with a forster to drill out a cavity the size of your hammer head, right down the middle of the two pieces. Then drill is the side exactly half way down the big hole, a hole the size of your handle. Again, right on the middle of the two pieces
83208e6494fb2741832ac60333b91055.jpg
750cf199d5bc6b3aa9e7a3662072961e.jpg

The handles are 1/2" steel pipe with a nut welded on the end, both sealing it off, and giving it some way to hold into the lead.
To insure it can't leak lead around the handle, I give it a couple wraps of duct tape to insure it's a tight fit.
Oh, and you put the handles in, then screw the two halves back together.
48e990b4ffcba94d7802e7332fddf8ab.jpg

Here's how I melt the lead. Old camp stove with a piece of expanded metal on top to reinforce it against the weight, and a cast iron plumbers lead melting pot. The ladle to pour it is a stainless steel cup from a thrift store, along with a pair of visegrips.
4b3e9b3aea4d0514ee58c99633522729.jpg

Here it is after the pour
a22a56271bc57aed709f99915e1bfe59.jpg

And here after splitting the mold.

And here's the finished hammers! I also like to spray the handles with rattle can bed liner to give them some grip, and I'll grab a picture after it drys
b9a11a81cd1d67a4b7b25266148a0725.jpg

b49afca23b102fc9b140e6ae57a135d2.jpg


Hope this helps someone wanting to make one of the most useful tools you can have!

you can never have too many tools
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

-Brent-

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 23, 2009
Messages
4,709
Location
Utah
Nice. I think this will be a good project this summer. Where did you get the lead?
 
OP
V

vintage nut

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 17, 2015
Messages
1,272
Location
west coast of canada
I have over a hundred pounds I've collected up over the last couple years.
Wheel weights are one option. Or battery terminal clamps.
Also old lead flashing, lead pipes, fishing weights, and if you have any connections in nuclear medicine, they use tons of lead flasks to transport isotopes.

you can never have too many tools
 

G_P

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 11, 2010
Messages
7,135
Location
Central CT
My father made one by filling a tin can with lead, peeling the can off once the lead was solid, and then drilling a hole in the lead to fit a wooden handle.

Your way seems much more efficient.
 

zkling

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 23, 2007
Messages
16,939
My father made one by filling a tin can with lead, peeling the can off once the lead was solid, and then drilling a hole in the lead to fit a wooden handle.

Your way seems much more efficient.

Maybe, but a wooden handled hammer is much nicer than a tubular steel handled hammer.
 

Tim37

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 11, 2014
Messages
560
I have a mold my similar in style to your wood set up it is steel and only does on at a time I think I have threeb aluminium handles that he made I use one at work its great when you need it
 

404

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 23, 2014
Messages
3,463
Location
Mass
Great Job! I have to fix my lead hammer, and keep looking at the cast iron molds on ebay for big money. Your method is genius, I will be using it.

Thank you!:thumbup:
 
OP
V

vintage nut

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 17, 2015
Messages
1,272
Location
west coast of canada
You would have to have something on the end of the wood handle for the lead to grab on. That's why I stick welded a nut on the end of the pipe.
I always agree wooden handled hammers are nicer. In fact the only non wood handled hammers I have are those lead ones, my framing hammer (stanley clone of estwing I got as a second for 6 bucks because the clear coat was scratched!) and a fiberglass handled proto copper hammer I got used.

I'm wanting to try a lead hammer the way I make brass hammers sometime, putting a cylinder on the milling machine and milling an eye into it.
Like this one I just did
734917fce3c5fd9f825bac307e94bb89.jpg

If you're wondering about the tape, I just made that handle, and drove the wedge in too far, cracking it. I decided to tape it up and see how long it lasts rather than take it right out and make another handle

you can never have too many tools
 
OP
V

vintage nut

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 17, 2015
Messages
1,272
Location
west coast of canada
Oh yeah, and the double mold was something I tried for the first time today, and had no idea how it would work. Basically I drilled the first hole, and thought I could squeeze one slightly smaller hammer in too, so decided to give it a shot.

The thing to remember is that liquid lead is very good at finding little gaps to leak out. However, its easy to stop it. If the mold doesn't fit together perfectly, you can use paper as a gasket in the loose spots. Duct tape as a gasket stops it too.

I first tried this after seeing how expensive proper molds are, and remembering hearing about casting fishing sinkers in wood molds. Only way I have done it since. Probably going to make a lead sledgehammer soon. Be real nice for jobs such as removing tractor wheels rusted to the hub, or persuading rusted on brake drums

you can never have too many tools
 

Bruce Lancaster

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 3, 2006
Messages
1,642
I used to just gather lead wheel balancing weights from the gutter whenever I walked my dog...put them in a tin can and melted them on the stove, and the steel clips just floated to the top for disposal. Lead ones are rare in the modern gutter, as some sort of mystery metal has bee in use for a long time.
 

HMCFab9

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 22, 2013
Messages
1,317
Location
Fox valley area, Wisconsin
Would Aluminum work?
I don't have any access to large quantities of lead, but there's a lot of soda cans available.
To make up for the weight of the lead, maybe weld a chunk of steel to the metal handle & pour the aluminum around it.. ?
I am in the process of building a forge anyway, so heat is not a problem.....& it will give me a use for cans.
 
Last edited:
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

zkling

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 23, 2007
Messages
16,939
Would Aluminum work?
I don't have any access to large quantities of lead, but there's a lot of cans available.

Doesn't have the density, while it would hold most of the non marring capabilities, it wouldn't have near the wallop for a same size head of lead.
 

Mohawk Dave

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 7, 2012
Messages
5,068
Location
SoCal
I have a handful of mushroomed out lead hammers from yardsales.

I assume I can put them in a pot and melt the lead right off to reuse?

And the aluminum sounds good too. Just melt and pour that as well? Or do you need another something mixed in?
 

zkling

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 23, 2007
Messages
16,939
Also realize that melting the aluminum is not nearly as easy as melting the lead. ~2x the temperature is needed meaning a small furnace and capable crucible. You would be better off turning a piece form bar stock for the aluminum route.
 

Ridwaan Gallow

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 18, 2015
Messages
92
Location
Cape Town, RSA
May i ask, what other uses are there for these hammers?

I have only ever used hard metal 2, 4 & 10 pound hammers for really smashing things and i was just wondering if the lead hammers would not "burst" under the impact?
 

zkling

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 23, 2007
Messages
16,939
Higher density, but lower hardness of steel hammers. Non marring (to a point), non sparking, but harder hitting than other materials with similar properties. With modern dead blow hammers they are a bit of a thing of the past. You have to be careful when they get worn as pieces can and will fly off. Real handy if you need to hit the end of a threaded shaft, but can't gall the threads.
 

Mohawk Dave

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 7, 2012
Messages
5,068
Location
SoCal
I seem to have used lead on mostly rusted farm equipment. Can't dent and mess up X piece, but have to wack it pretty good to move it...and there is usually not a lot of room, so the mass of lead really helps.
 

Ridwaan Gallow

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 18, 2015
Messages
92
Location
Cape Town, RSA
Thanks..

I shall now endeavour to cast myself a new lead hammer with a wooden handle.. should work nicely for removing tight brake drums etc..
 

404

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 23, 2014
Messages
3,463
Location
Mass
Lead hammer is used to tap work down in a milling machine vise, tighten vise handles, and with a wrench to loosen and tighten bolts on the milling machine.
 
OP
V

vintage nut

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 17, 2015
Messages
1,272
Location
west coast of canada
Yep, just toss the old hammer in the pot, and the head will melt off. Probably need to add a little lead to make up for little pieces coming off.

As for the mask, I wear a P100 respirator which stops everything, but it really isn't necessary. Lead doesn't produce fumes until well past 1000 degrees, and good luck getting that on a camp stove.
I also do it outside right in front of the shop.


As for lead hammer used, the mill vise is one, although I normally use a delrin faced hammer. My main use for them is mechanics work where you need to beat the **** out of something without hurting it. Lead hits very hard, acts like a deadblow, and will not hurt your parts. I have used them for things like encouraging steel wheels to come off the hubs, convincing a rusted on brake caliper to come off, and just any time something needs a beating but can't be dented.

I also have a copper hammer, a brass hammer, an aluminum one (for the mill vise) a nylon/delrin faced one, rubber mallets, all kinds. They all have an application

you can never have too many tools
 
OP
V

vintage nut

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 17, 2015
Messages
1,272
Location
west coast of canada
Also, if you can't find lead, rotometals (they're online) sells lead bars for about $1.50 a pound. You want the antimonial lead as its slightly harder, not pure lead

you can never have too many tools
 

hangfirew8

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 14, 2008
Messages
879
Location
Central Maryland
What mask do you use when you're handling the liquid lead?

A simple/cheap face shield will do, anything that will keep a splash off your face.

You don't need elaborate lead abatement breathing masks because there is no such thing is "lead fumes", you'll never get that hot on a Coleman storve, what you smell is all the other stuff burning off.
 
OP
V

vintage nut

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 17, 2015
Messages
1,272
Location
west coast of canada
Yep that's exactly my point. I just wear a respirator because all the **** burning off wheel weights and old flashing really stinks, and the respirator stops the smell.

You have to boil the lead before fumes are an issue. And you would need a cutting torch and a crucible to do that

you can never have too many tools
 

toolmuchtool

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 20, 2010
Messages
75
Vintage nut, nice job I never thought of using a mold out of wood. I did see a guy make a few different ones on youtube. His easiest one he did used a tomato can. He had to try a couple times to get it looking good, as the clear coating in the can reacted with the lead and made for one ugly lead hammer. You can only use the can mold one time. As you peel the can off the cooled off lead hammer. I like you wood one as it can be used over and over. Thanks for shearing how you made it and all the pictures.
 
OP
V

vintage nut

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 17, 2015
Messages
1,272
Location
west coast of canada
I have never actually tried reusing a wood mold! I have the one double mold in this thread, and one larger one that I used once. I'll try reusing one tomorrow and post the results! My only worry is how the edges right around where it joins have a little more charring, and I'm worried it might not seal as tight. I think it will work at least twice, maybe more, but I think the flash around the seam would get pretty bad before long. Although an autobody file would take care of that pretty fast!

Also, the molds are really easy to make! If you have a drill press and forsner bits, you can make the mold in under 5 minutes easily

you can never have too many tools
 

JWC07

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 20, 2011
Messages
91
I'm going to make one using this method next time I fire up my pot. I cast my own boolits and fishing lures. I have a lot of lead and I know I could use a lead hammer. Thanks for posting


Sent
 

Jere

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 26, 2011
Messages
708
Thanks for sharing this great method! I have a lead hammer I picked up used and have been conservative with its use as I haven't had a good way to replace it but this will do the trick nicely!
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom