leak in my compressor

[punkabilly136]

one day my compressor wouldn't shut off and kept running and running...turns out it was only at 70lbs and that wasn't enough for the regulator to kill the motor, I also noticed air pressure coming from somewhere but cant really tell where. Does anyone have any idea what i should do to stop the leak and how to find it? its a 60 gallon 220v single phase
thanks
bob

 

[Kevin54]

one day my compressor wouldn't shut off and kept running and running...turns out it was only at 70lbs and that wasn't enough for the regulator to kill the motor, I also noticed air pressure coming from somewhere but cant really tell where. Does anyone have any idea what i should do to stop the leak and how to find it? its a 60 gallon 220v single phase
thanks
bob

Check the bottom of the compressor for a leak. If you do not drain it on a regular basis it will rust from the insode out and start out with a small pinhole and develop into a larger hole. If that is not it, then mix up a little Dawn dishwashing soap in a bowl with water and soap every connection with a small paintbrush.

 

[punkabilly136]

thanks, do you think the white tape would take care of the leak if it is around a threaded pipe?

 

[pinebarkauto]

A leak great enough to not let your compressor cycle off would be easily detected. More likely, something is wrong with the compressor pump. Last summer, my CH 2stage 7.5 HP unit was taking a long time to cycle off even without any load use. I found I had a blown head gasket. When I called for parts, I was told that the valve plate between the head and cylinder case was problematic and had been superceeded by a new design. I changed out both and no more problem, but I couldn't say for sure the valve plate was bad.

 

[revlover]

As for finding out if the leak is with some sort of pipe connection, have you used really soapy water over the pipe ends? See if it bubbles up? That's where your leak would be...

 

[punkabilly136]

A leak great enough to not let your compressor cycle off would be easily detected. More likely, something is wrong with the compressor pump. Last summer, my CH 2stage 7.5 HP unit was taking a long time to cycle off even without any load use. I found I had a blown head gasket. When I called for parts, I was told that the valve plate between the head and cylinder case was problematic and had been superceeded by a new design. I changed out both and no more problem, but I couldn't say for sure the valve plate was bad.

man i hope its nothing serious like that

 

[porschedude996TT]

As for finding out if the leak is with some sort of pipe connection, have you used really soapy water over the pipe ends? See if it bubbles up? That's where your leak would be...

A leak that bad shouold throw the cup back at you...LOL

 

[Jay H 237]

Check the pipe that goes from the pump to the tank too. We had a Speedaire compressor at work that wouldn't shut off and found out the copper pipe had a rupture in it between the pump and tank. The pipe was wrapped in cooling fins and the rupture wasn't easily visible but you sure could hear it.

 

[Dogberry01]

I would also look at the check valve between the head and the tank. That would also give you the same problem.

 

[Identaltech]

you didn't say if you shut off the valve at the compressor so you leak could be down the line too.
if you compressor can't keep up with the leak you should have lots of air coming out and it wont be from a fitting needing teflon tape.
That is if the head is puting out air.
put you hand over the intake and if it ***** your hand off then it a leak
if you still have your hand then its the head.

 

[punkabilly136]

ok so ive narrowed down my leak to somwhere in the shut off switch, there is strong pressure coming out of the side somewhere and ive put soapy water along all the fittings but nothing is bubbling super bad. Is there something internally that could be leaking inside the switch? maybe the regualor that shuts the pump off? You can see the whitish areas where the air pressure keeps hitting.
hope the pics help...

 

[Identaltech]

your arrow points to your pressure relief valve.( the brass thing with a ring on the end)
when working right it hold air when air pressure gose to high it bleed it off.
and yes your pressure switch can leak also. (the gray thing with the cover)
just replace them both and have fun.

 

[mmg440]

From your pic it almost looks like your pressure relive may be stuck open. The little brass thing with the key ring looking thing. Try pushing the ring part into the body and see if it moves. If if does start up an see if leak is still there. If problem happens again then you have the air pressure setting to high or weak pressure relief valve. If not it can be the pressure switch but you want to make sure witch one it is. If it is the switch most likely will need a replacment. Take a pieces of cardboard or something so you can put a temp partition in between the two and see what side the air is leaking from and go from there.

 

[punkabilly136]

i thought it might be the brass piece so i moved it and it seems to open and shut properly

 

[punkabilly136]

I think i have found the problem, but i have to wait to get parts...im thinking it is the check valve malfunctioning and therefore causing blowback. (which would explain the air coming from the switch and then the tank constantly running) opionions wanted on this one!!

 

[Charles (in GA)]

I think i have found the problem, but i have to wait to get parts...im thinking it is the check valve malfunctioning and therefore causing blowback. (which would explain the air coming from the switch and then the tank constantly running) opionions wanted on this one!!

I don't think so. The dump valve that is operated by the pressure switch is closed when the switch is in the run position. Easy to test the check valve at the tank inlet, just kill the power to the pump while it is running, then trip the pressure switch open (make darn sure you use something insulated and the power is removed), the pressure on the head will dump and cease if check valve is OK, a bad check valve will continue to pass air out thru the "dump" valve at the pressure switch until the tank is empty.

The check valve we are talking about is the one screwed into the tank that the copper tube from the compressor is attached to. Should have a black tube from it to the back of the pressure switch.

Charles

 

[punkabilly136]

i was thinking this check valve...hell it might not even be a check valve, i am completely clueless right now lol

 

[mmg440]

That is NOT a check valve but is part of the pressure switch. (and yes it could leak).
unless your arrow is pointing to the brass coupling in the back and not the spring area. Still a completely different area the your earlier photos. and the spray signs you wrote about.
Did you try to listen with a scrap piece of hose as a listening device or take a scrap of cardboard or something to isolate were the leak is. I only see two items in the area that it normally could be. Your pressure switch or your blow off valve. Even though you said it moves it could leak. Since it looks like the blow off valve threads into your pressure switch you may want to check to see if they are sold together. Judging by the white spray on the outside of the pressure switch cover on the earlier photos it still looks to be the blow off valve?? But I would recommend trying to isolate a bit to make sure.


I added some names of what the parts look like to me to your photo

 

[punkabilly136]

yeah i was talking about that brass fitting behind the switch, I'm going to replace the relief valve first and see if that helps...maybe its going bad and starts to open a little at a certain pressure?

 

[Charles (in GA)]

The little black hose goes to a valve that is opened by the pressure switch upon shutdown. When the switch contacts pop open, the mechanics of the switch depress a plunger and open a valve somewhere under it, probably near where that brass fitting is located. This dumps the pressure on the head of the compressor and all of the pressure in the copper pipe down to the tank. There is a check valve at the tank (end of the copper pipe) that stops the tank pressure from coming back into the compressor pump. If your dump or relief valve is stuck open, yes, it would port air all the time when the compressor is running, possibly enough to keep the tank from filling to the shutoff point.

Charles

 

[johnny1290]

I sent you a PM on JJ but my 2 cents....when I had a leak problem on my 110 CH I fooled with it and made it worse, finally I wised up and threw it out and put in one I bought on ebay for $30, now it works great...diagnosing the problem was the biggest waste of my time and frustration trying to 'fix' that dang thing rather than just replace it

leaky compressors drive me nuts

 

[punkabilly136]

I FOUND THE LEAK!!
excuse the dark pic, but it is coming from the fitting that sits under the pressure switch and goes back to the copper tube from the compressor. If you look close enough you can see where the air keeps hitting the case...what is this part called ?