Leaking windows, HELP

[rieferman]

OK, I knew the new windows used on the barn project wouldn't hold up with just caulk forever, but I was hoping to get a season or two until I can afford the siding project. But, we're leaking bad right now.

Basically, I got new construction windows (with the tabs all the way around) for a song from a guy going out of business, applied generous amounts of caulk, screwed those suckers in place, and crossed my fingers hoping I'd make it until I can protect the entire building better.

Leaked during last rain storm a week or two ago, tried affixing a temporary mini-ledge made out of flashing above each window. Thought I might be able to deflect enough of the weather to keep the issue at bay. No dice.

Now I'm thinking of getting that rubber membrane flashing and installing that. I'd have to take that step before siding the building anyways.. Will it help?

Any other ideas? Just need to get about 6 months to a year out of the solution, and it needs to be cost effective right now.

MANY thanks

 

[rieferman]

anyone? I'm getting ready to build an ark here with all the rain we found today... was hoping to sail the ark to home depot after work, pickup needed supplies, sail back, apply fix

 

[BlindViper]

How about a picture?

 

[TA^Guy]

Yeah a photo might help, is that plastic tab exposed still?

 

[rieferman]

Hey guys, thanks. Here's a pic. The plastic tab is still in place. During installation, caulked the tab, and the opposing surface. Screws in every other hole all the way around, screws passed through the barn board and then into 2x4 framing behind the barn board.

Building leans a few inches still, so water rides down the surface of this side of the building. Eventually, siding will resolve the issue, but I need a way to keep the water out until I can afford it.

Also, the wood has a bead detail running vertically on each piece that makes it somewhat more difficult to seal (as opposed to a flat plywood surface).

(edit, ignore that old rigged window up on the 2nd story... oddly, it doesn't leak a bit)

 

[pcmeiners]

When I did over my house I used the ***** membrane, works well, but it needs a dry, nonporous, smooth surface for adhesion, it will not work well on wood siding, to porous.

As a stop gap until the siding goes up, I would try...

sand a small area around window with a small grinder/sanding disk until a smooth surface is obtained ( 1-2" from flange edge)

use a glue which will permeate wood such as contact adhesive, apply multiple coats as necessary, so wood pores seal. After adhesive is bond dry, apply ***** membrane. Not sure if the membrane will adhere to the glue so test first on scrape wood. Once ***** paper is applied, VERY difficult to remove, so plan ahead.


Once the siding goes up, assuming Tyvex will be involved, you will need another layer of the membrane, as this stop-gap measure will not withstand years of moisture.

 

[BlindViper]

I might consider taking the windows loose. Caulking the flange and reinstalling the window. You ledge of flashing might work However I would caulk behind it and screw it too the exterior surface. I would also make sure it extends past the edge of the window at least a foot. Also are you sure that the water is not coming from above?

 

[rieferman]

Thanks so much for the advice, keep it coming.

I used high quality silicone caulk, and caulked the flange and the oposing surface in a zig zag pattern when installing the windows just a few months ago. Prior to install, I sanded and wire brushed the wood surface since it's old and relatively pourous, so I was trying to improve adhesion.

The metal mini-roofs that I installed above each window helped, but I still got water in. I can't get a good caulk seal on this wood to save my life.

I'm thinking pcmeiners idea to prepare the wood with some sort of penetrating sealer so that I have a good surface to seal might be the ticket. Scrape, sand, seal, dry, caulk/rubber membrane.

What ***** is this literally only needs to last for a year at most until siding is able to be budgeted in.

 

[timewarp]

Using a circular saw cut a kerf across the siding about 3/8" deep just above the window, insert a piece of flashing into the kerf with some caulking so that ithe flashing comes out of the kerf then goes down the wall a little then out over the upper flange on the window. This way you won't have water running down the back of the flange on the window, it will directed out to the front by your flashing. You could actually cut all the way through the siding and then run the flashing up the inside then reattach the siding to some blocking.

 

[rieferman]

Nice, that's a good idea. I think I'll make the cut at an angle even.

(I just slapped myself in the forehead)

 

[ddawg16]

Using a circular saw cut a kerf across the siding about 3/8" deep just above the window, insert a piece of flashing into the kerf with some caulking so that ithe flashing comes out of the kerf then goes down the wall a little then out over the upper flange on the window. This way you won't have water running down the back of the flange on the window, it will directed out to the front by your flashing. You could actually cut all the way through the siding and then run the flashing up the inside then reattach the siding to some blocking.

That is what I was thinking....and the angle cut is a good idea as well....

What you will find when you do the siding is that you will cover the existing wall with either tar paper or Tyvex...you will start at the bottom and move up with each upper layer overlapping the previous layer......one of those layers will overlap the lip of the window....otherwise, there is no way to keep out the water....

 

[onewaydave]

Also, looking at the photos and having barns, I think your existing siding is vertical boards abutted to each other. If so consider that the gap between the boards runs to the top of the wall. If so, even if there is an over lying batten, that is a chance for water to enter. I would lay #30 felt or other barrier from the ground to under the eaves overlapping like Daug says. Extend about 2 ' on either side of the window. Cut the edge as close to the window as possible, caulk and tack in with roofing nails. On the bottom of the window, tuck the felt under the window nailing flare. What I'd do.

 

[Jakkle5]

Housewrap the barn with a Tyvek or the like and use the Tyvek tape around the windows to seal the housewrap to the windows. You'll need to do this step when siding anyway....

 

[JerseyJim]

Just a very quick comment... As others have pointed out, the grooves in the wood are probably channeling water in. However, another thing to keep in mind is that the wood looks like it is either unfinished or the finish has pretty much worn off. Silicone is not a good sealant for this type of surface. It will not penetrate into the surface at all. Water-based sealants such as acrylics contain surfactants that allow them to bite into a porous surface.

 

[Lippyp]

No room for expanding foam around them? Failing that make up a temporary proper little roof to go above them, only needs to be a couple of triangular frames, some osb and roofing felt, hardest part would be sealing the grooves.