Leaky wall, darn it!

[keelan]

I've been in my place for two years, and I've never had problems with water infiltrating my mostly-below-grade garage. At least I didn't think I had problems. The back and right side block walls were framed out 1" and covered with masonite, the left side wall is bare block. I didn't see any moisture coming through the exposed wall in the last two years. I haven't had any moisture on the floor either. I recently stripped the masonite off of the back and right side wall, and with some warmer temperatures today this happened:

I really don't want to have to dig up the foundation to correct the problem, but I have a feeling that is unavoidable. Seems a bit silly for a little moisture, but I want the space to be dry.

I was planning on sticking some XPS foam on the walls and framing them out, I have a feeling that this might be a problem for those plans?

 

[tshetter]

You are probably going to need some kind of block sealer. Maybe talk to your local Sherwin-Williams rep and see what they would recommend.

I have used many of SW's products and have been happy with the result.

 

[weldtoride]

I've been fighting a leaky 1948 poured concrete basement for a long time. The first thing I would recommend is what took me way too long to realize: Get your gutters and downspouts in tip-top shape and run your roof water well away from the house. Doing that was far more effective than anything I've done inside.

Since you have block walls, you might want to look into using one of the dry-stack bonding products as a waterproof agent.

I agree, covering those walls before addressing the water will be a mistake.

 

[rburke65]

X2 on keeping your gutters and down spouts clean and free of debris....ask me how I know!

 

[jkwilson]

X3 on the gutters and downspouts. Making a wall impermeable is almost impossible. Much, much easier to keep the water away from the wall to start with.

 

[5mall5nail5]

Maybe consider DryLoc or whatever? I have seen it work really well... but the water has to go some place, so it just distributes on the side that isn't treated.

 

[rlitman]

#1 Gutters and downspouts. This is the easiest thing to do, and the most effective.
#2 Ground grade. Is the ground graded away from the structure properly? Can this be easily fixed? Or does the water led away from the gutters come right back?

#3 Seal the inside. This is far less effective than sealing the outside, but it is easy.
Dry-loc is not a bad idea, but if you're a belt and suspenders kind of guy, I'd do three steps.
a. dry-loc / thoroseal to seal the concrete's pores (stucco would do the same thing, but this is easier)
b. asphaltic sealant (roller grade tar) on top of that. This is flexible and will go over everything and should protect through some movement
Note that tar NEVER DRIES, and is incredibly messy. This is not an option if the block is ever to be left exposed, but is a great barrier if the wall will always be covered.
c. moisture barrier. 6mil plastic up against the blocks and taped before you put up anything.

I don't see any signs of efflorescence of long term water issues, so most likely anything beyond step 1 and 2 is overkill, but I'd rather have a vapor barrier behind any wall I put up if I were to cover the block.

 

[keelan]

Luckily, the garage has gutters along both sides, and I haven't had any water problems along those sides.

The terrain is well sloped, there is an 8 foot grade change from the front of my garage to the back. Behind my garage is 25 or so feet of relatively level lawn. I think I need to look closer at that slope and adjust it if I can. If there is any slope it will be towards my garage. I'm limited on what I can do, the roof at the back of my garage is at ground level... In fact the bottom of my gutters touch the ground at one point back there. Accessing my garage roof couldn't be easier!

I'll take some pictures when I can catch the sun shining.

I don't think I'll be insulating before the spring, so that gives me some time to adjust the terrain before the spring rain hits. All the remaining snow melted today, and the ground isn't frozen, so this is a good time to be having this problem. What's this 'polar vortex' I keep hearing about? Is is the least snow I've had in over 10 years.

If I can't fix the problem with a shovel, then I might consider renting an excavator and exposing the back side of the wall for some better drainage and waterproofing work. Any I time I read one positive review of dry lock I seem to come across two or three negative reviews.

 

[jaysberman]

I fought that for years in my basement and finally had a back hoe dig down to foundation and put in a french drain and put fresh tar on the walls. A real mess, but no more wet walls.

 

[weldtoride]

......What's this 'polar vortex' I keep hearing about? Is is the least snow I've had in over 10 years......

Your snow is in my yard and drive....I don't need it anymore, come and get it please.

 

[keelan]

If you pay the shipping I'll take it off your hands!

 

[Ron Fletcher]

If your gutters and downspouts are in good shape and this amount of water is getting through the wall, I don't think that is all that big of a deal. Groundwater is going to saturate through a concrete wall if you get a heavy downpour of rain. Mine does the same thing. If it continues, I'd use metal studs on that wall to attach the Masonite to. That will keep the water from saturating through the wood. I would try that LONG before I'd dig up my yard and try to seal it on the outside. You can also get an inside sealer to roll on that wall to help. If it is covered with paneling, it will never show anyway, right?
If it puddles on the floor, then you will have to deal with that.