Lean to addition on Gable end

[rosshurlow1]

Hey Guys,

I'm wanting to do a final improvement to my shop and get my Backhoe/Trailers covered but out of the shop. Seems the best way to do this is add a lean to at the gable end. I was going to Cut the existing sidewall steel and install a Gable Vent while I'm at it for attic access since I installed a ceiling liner inside and insulated it. I drafted up a plan and was wanting to get ready to order material but wanted advice regarding it

-Base is Just going to be gravel.
-I'm not sure if I should enclose the far end wall or the rear?
-I partially wanted to try the concrete piers and anchors, but not sure if that is would be best?

 

[CombatNinja]

There are no overall dimensions listed but that post in the middle of the space would annoy the hell out of me. You might also want to look at the option of just having it very close and tucked up under your existing soffit so that the structures are no physically tied together. Depending on your frost requirements, it could end up cheaper maybe.

 

[TurnipTruck]

Ten foot wide bays are annoyingly narrow.

Twelve foot seems like acres more room for just two more feet.
How much snow do you get? I doubt your shop horizontal girts will support any additional roofing load at all, so the suggestion to not connect the leanto to the building by adding another row of posts close to the wall is valid.

 

[jack stand]

Dimensions would help but I see 2x10x28' so I guess you're looking for about 24'-26' that will make 2 nice bays. Check out a truss company and see if either half trusses or a long (single span) truss rafter to eliminate the extra posts in the middle. Part of your conversation needs to include your end wall framing and available support to carry what they might suggest.
I'd suggest not using a 6x6, banging together 3 or 4 pt 2x6's
is stronger, straighter, and better pt treatment (almost completely through a 2x6) vs the mostly untreated center of a 6x6.
You'll probably save a little as well.
You probably have posts @8' c/l on the end wall and a lvl would be the safe bet to carry it's half of the new roof. (no center posts)
I'd do either sonotubes/wet set brackets or perma columns.
Personally I'd close in the back and side while you're at it, you'll want it eventually anyway.

 

[Bert_]

Any reason you don't want to just get a few more trusses and continue the roof line?

I don't see a big reason to make it a lean too since you aren't putting it under an eve

 

[CraigStu]

I'd be thinking about average wind direction during a storm when deciding which end to close in.

 

[rosshurlow1]

Any reason you don't want to just get a few more trusses and continue the roof line?

I don't see a big reason to make it a lean too since you aren't putting it under an eve

That is actually striking me as a great idea. Would I be able to set the cieling height at 12' where the Barn is at 16'? I feel if I ordered it and tried to install it inline it may show fading differences?

 

[geneg]

That is actually striking me as a great idea. Would I be able to set the cieling height at 12' where the Barn is at 16'? I feel if I ordered it and tried to install it inline it may show fading differences?

You're a little further South than I am, but drifting snow load on a lower roof can be a serious design consideration (also depending on direction of exposure). I remember Butler adding stiffeners on the frames & halfing the purlin spacing on a below eave addition.

I'd probably get a few extra trusses & do a length addition. Leave the sides open if you just want covered storage.

 

[jack stand]

I'd only add that any snow coming off of the roof (trusses) will land on your access. This might be a minor consideration depending on your snowfall.


This was a very odd and wet 18" snow April 4th this year!
Fortunately the lawn equipment equipment was not necessary yet

 

[dcg9381]

-I partially wanted to try the concrete piers and anchors, but not sure if that is would be best?

I added 20'x60' lean-to on to my building, but not the gable end.
I did a 24" concrete beam all the way down on the outside, which cost a good deal more, but my concern was that the piers would settle differently. In retrospect, it was probably overkill, but it's going to depend on your soil type and depth of pier.
Anchor plates were put into the wet concrete and then posts were welded to the plates. Requires a little precision.

Glad someone brought up snow load, that may be a consideration along with pitch in some places.

 

[rosshurlow1]

I'd only add that any snow coming off of the roof (trusses) will land on your access. This might be a minor consideration depending on your snowfall.


This was a very odd and wet 18" snow April 4th this year!
Fortunately the lawn equipment equipment was not necessary yet

Did you design the framing yourself or did somewhere like menards help out?

 

[jack stand]

It just comes to me.
It's a very simple building with simple loads. No great spans.
Basic stuff for anyone who's been pulling splinters out of there fingers forever.

 

[Scotto]

Subscribing because i'm looking to do the same exact thing on my pole barn. I don't want to go the truss route because I'm not getting permits for mine so if I need to take it down it'll be easier without trusses.
I'm planning on putting in a row of 6x6 posts close to the building so the lean-to isn't attached to the existing building.

 

[rosshurlow1]

I'd only add that any snow coming off of the roof (trusses) will land on your access. This might be a minor consideration depending on your snowfall.


This was a very odd and wet 18" snow April 4th this year!
Fortunately the lawn equipment equipment was not necessary yet

Would you have any pictures of this being framed? pretty much exactly what I was looking for!

 

[jack stand]

The top picture is a 2x12 with a 2x4 for bearing surface. (full dimension sawmill lumber)
Both pictures are fastened on 16" o/c framing, you'll have to increase your structural "ledger" if you're dealing with normal post frame construction with 8' or more post spacing. Not a problem with LVL's, just look for some guidance sizing them.
The bottom picture uses a 4x6 lagged to the framing with the little galvanized straps preventing "pull out" of the tji rafters, this is an eve situation above so it sees a lot of snow sliding onto it from the upper roof.
The top picture is a gable end situation and generous use of GRK rss series structural screws securing the ledger.