Lean-to Shed Construction Progress

[naf305]

Hi all,

I wanted to document somewhere the progress of my shed construction. I've been thinking about this project for a while and I'm finally starting. I also hope to get some expert advise along the way from this great community.

First off I'm building a shed because my dream is to convert my 2-car detached garage into a woodworking workshop. This means moving all of the gardening tools elsewhere thus the shed. This is by far my biggest project ever. I've never done concrete or framing, mainly just a hobbyist woodworker.

After studying my zoning requirements I could really only build a 5ft x 20ft shed to stay within the setback requirements and under the 100 sqft mark to avoid a construction permit.

Here is an initial drawing to give you an idea.

I'll post soon some pics of the foundation work. Let me know what you think!

 

[bdbecker]

I'll be following along... I would like to eventually add a lean-to onto my garage as well (already researched the zoning and offsets as well) and will be interested to see how your shapes up.

 

[naf305]

Step 1: Prepping the area

Yes it took me a whole weekend just to clear up that area. It was essentially the dump of the backyard where I had unloaded loads of dirt and rocks from everywhere else and seasons after seasons I had a jungle of weeds growing in there. It was not fun but the thought of being able to get started on this project got me through it.

Notice on the bottom left the pile of rocks, stones and boulders I removed.

Here is another stack of smaller ones.

After a couple trips at the recycling center to dump all the yard waste I'm left with the stones that will have to go in the dumpster.

I tried to grade the ground as best as I could. Notice that there is a slight slope from the front to the back and a bigger one from the side of the garage to the side. As long as the area close to the garage is more or less flat I'm happy.

 

[naf305]

Step 2: Removing the old siding from the garage

Ok, maybe this raises a few eyebrows. So my garage is eventually going to be turned in a workshop. A place I want to heat in the winter and cool in the summer. This means proper sealing and insulation of the walls. Since the garage is full of gardening tools and other junk (some of which is going straight into the dumpster) I need the space to store all of it before working on the workshop: The idea of a shed was born .

Ok so back to the garage siding: it is an old layer of cedar shakes nailed onto furring strips, straight to the studs! No sheeting layer of any kind. So with the plan to insulate this bad boy one day I decided to start sheeting this side first since I was going to build the shed over it.

Here is a picture of the wall once we started the demolition:

The amount of debri this created was impressive. Good thing we had those tarps underneath us. It made the cleanup a lot easier.

Finally here is a pic of the wall all naked of siding and furing strips.

Then everything went into the dumpster. While I was a little overwhelmed by the cost of the 12 yard dumpster I rented, I soon realized how great it was. All those rock, garage junk, old wood sidind and furing strips had a place to go. To give you an idea of the cost I paid about $425 for a 12 yard dumpster . It might be expensive for some but I feel like everything is expensive around here (NJ)

 

[naf305]

Step 3: Nail new sheeting to garage wall

I used 15/32 3-ply plywood from Home Depot. It was fairly cheap, something like $17/sheet.

I started marking the first board with the location of each stud using a chalk like but that quickly stopped as we could easily see the studs location.

I tried my nest to keep a straight line for each row of sheets but I noticed later that this had left a gap at the bottom.

Also I feel like 15/32 thick plywood is not very thick. In retrospect I would have maybe gotten 19/32 the plywood, oh well it is sufficient for a shed.

 

[Marctrees]

OMG... Dumpster those stones?

Well, I guess sounds like it's done now.

Interesting thinking. Marc

 

[naf305]

Step 4: Digging the pier footings

In my area the frost line is 36in deep so I will be digging just slightly deepeer to be safe.

I had originally drawn 8 footings but I realized it was overkill and that I could save a few bucks and some work (since I'm doing this by myself). I'm going for 6 footings instead with a 10ft span between them which the 2x6 joist should have no problem supporting.

I started the day by getting the 8in sonotubes and some gravel which will help drainage at the bottom of the footing and also help keeping the tube in place until I get the concrete.

Then I rented the GroundHog towable auger. I had done some research and this was really my only option to get this job done alone. I've heard too many horror stories about augers specially digging in soils with rocks (and I have a lot). I got the 10in drill alone with an extension to be able to go up to 48in deep.

The auger was really easy to use I have to say. The reverse gear feature was a life saver every I got stuck on a rock. Also this auger can drill up really close to an existing wall or fence. My only problem is that being alone I couldn't really lift the auger out with the dirt still the drill meaning that I essentially had to use the post digger to clear up the whole but the auger made the dirt nice and loose so it wasn't too bad.

Finally when drilling with extension on, the auger can't lift up straight to get the drill out so you have to come out at an angle which was a little awkward at first but after 2 wholes it becomes a second nature.

Here is the final view of my 6 footings. Took me a whole day sweating in the heat. I'm glad it is over.

 

[naf305]

OMG... Dumpster those stones?

Well, I guess sounds like it's done now.

Interesting thinking. Marc

I kept the large flat stones than I can reuse for landscaping in front of the shed once it done. The other small stones I just don't know what to do with them and honestly I've spent too many time moving them around the past couple year I was just happy to see them go.

 

[naf305]

Step 5: Pouring the concrete

Clearly the worst part of the job here was to get the bags of concrete. I used a online calculator to give an idea of how many bags I needed. I really wanted to get no more no less given that each is 60lbs and that I needed just about a 1,000lbs of premixed concrete.

So I went on my marry way back to home depot to get 17 bags of concrete.

I was debating on renting a concrete mixer. I went back and forth on it for while. In the end I decided to just buy a mortar hoe and large mixing tub. I didn't want to deal with getting the mixer in the van, renting it and having to return it later. Mixing take a lot of hard work and is definitely a workout for your shoulders but if you do it one or two bags at a time it is doable.

I also picked up some post base from simpson strong-ties. I got the PB44Z

I would mix 2.5 bags of concrete, pour it in the tube then set the post base in it. I eyeball the alignment of the base and used a level to make sure it was leveled.

All in all it went well. Everything is leveled though I realized that 2 of my footings though leveled across are not exactly square with the garage wall. I can fix that later when I install the joists and before I put in the floor sheeting.

 

[naf305]

Appendix: Foundation drawing

Just to give you a better idea of what I'm doing and what it should eventually look like:

 

[yodhan]

I am gonna keep an eye on this. I have been having the same idea to do this on my garage.

 

[bdbecker]

Nice work!

...Yes it took me a whole weekend just to clear up that area. It was essentially the dump of the backyard where I had unloaded loads of dirt and rocks from everywhere else and seasons after seasons I had a jungle of weeds growing in there...

Funny... the spot where I want to put my lean-to is the dumping ground/jungle of weeds as well.

 

[Stuart in MN]

I want to complement you on your posts - well written, and with good illustrations and photos of the work. I don't have any plans at the moment for building a lean-to myself but I'm enjoying the ride anyway.

 

[naf305]

I want to complement you on your posts - well written, and with good illustrations and photos of the work. I don't have any plans at the moment for building a lean-to myself but I'm enjoying the ride anyway.

Thanks! Glad you like it. Mainly I wanted to share my excitement about this project and all the hoard work and planning that I'm putting in it.

My wife is not really the type to appreciate this kind of project. I asked last weekend all pumped after a hard day's work: "Did you see my foundation??", she said "Sure, looks great...". Anyway I love her but I feel like I'll get more support from this audience here.

 

[naf305]

Also, side thread here about issues I'm to solve regarding the bottom plate and gaps in my sheeting work I did on the garage.

Any thoughts?

 

[Viper98912]

Awesome!

 

[Vettman]

Looks like it'll be very nice. Have you thought about a door into the garage, maybe midway?

 

[naf305]

Looks like it'll be very nice. Have you thought about a door into the garage, maybe midway?

No door. It would change the whole project to a garage extension including permits and all. Plus I wouldn't really use it and it would take away valuable wall space inside the garage for my woodworking tools.

 

[forAK]

On your design, why 2 man doors? Eats up wall space for shelves or hanging your yard tools.

 

[naf305]

On your design, why 2 man doors? Eats up wall space for shelves or hanging your yard tools.

It's a 20ft x 5ft. The door on the front (the 5ft side) is for the lawnmower, the ladder etc... But that will be hard to access all of the stuff all the way in the back of the shed so I figured a second door (maybe wider) to access garbage cans and other gardening tools.

 

[captain14]

I saw someplace on the Internet where someone did something similiar but off set from the front of the garage but wider than yours. Same idea, platform deck and tied it to side wall

His goal was to get all the extra out of the garage .

Some members post links at the bottom of their post to their build threads to tie everything together instead of one post with a link.

 

[naf305]

Some members post links at the bottom of their post to their build threads to tie everything together instead of one post with a link.

Sorry I'm a newbie to the forum. I want to have a thread that can be useful to others down the road. How are you suggesting I organize my progress thread?

Have separate post for each steps and always make sure I reference links to the previous steps in the latest post? Or keep adding to this single thread?

I plan on creating separate threads to discuss specific problems, issues or question I have along the way and then reference those in my main progress thread once I feel like I've reached a consensus on how to move forward.

Thanks again for the guidance.

 

[rpenterics]

Sorry I'm a newbie to the forum. I want to have a thread that can be useful to others down the road. How are you suggesting I organize my progress thread?

Have separate post for each steps and always make sure I reference links to the previous steps in the latest post? Or keep adding to this single thread?

I plan on creating separate threads to discuss specific problems, issues or question I have along the way and then reference those in my main progress thread once I feel like I've reached a consensus on how to move forward.

Thanks again for the guidance.

Good plan here

I think captain means you should add a signature so that when you make a new thread with a question your signature can direct people back to your build thread (this one) and they can get some perspective if needed

If you would like to add a signature with a link, your name, a quote, etc. just go to the "User CP" link and you can chose "Edit Signature" on the left, picture sourced via google so not of this particular forum but close enough...

 

[naf305]

Step 6: Installing the 4x6 beams

So while I still had my uHaul for the weekend I did one last trip to get all the lumber that I needed for my shed. Got all my treated lumber, studs, rafters and sheeting plywood.

Then I set up my 4x6 beams that I had cut down to 6ft length (will only really need 5ft width for the shed) to make easier to transport. I did a dry fit to make sure everything was leveled and to my surprise the 3 beams were almost dead on level. Though to be fair while the front beam is square with the garage wall the other 2 are definitely off square. While it is not much of an issue for the middle one (i will just cut my connecting joist to slightly different length) I will have to fix the back one. I have some ideas about how to deal with that.

I used some masonry line and a cheap line level to get a quick glance at my levels.

I then ran a line at exactly 5ft from the garage wall to mark exactly where on each beam (and what angle since 2 of the beams were slightly off square) to cut.

I nailed the beams using the Simpson Strong-tie 16D 3 1/2in nails recommended for the post base. The trick is to keep a level on the beam while nailing and to start a few nails on each side of the beam to keep it balanced and slowly secured in a leveled position.

I finished by spreading the left-over dirt from digging the piers. What I found out is that the rain storm from a few days ago packed the loose dirt I had back-filled around the sonotube. Make sure to drenched the areas around the piers after they cure and let it dry to make sure get a chance to pack that dirt.

 

[naf305]

Step 7: Drainage and critter-proofing

So this a step I had not planned but decided to include in the project after asking some questions in this thread.

Essentially I was concerned about leaving the grade as-is and making sure I was doing everything to promote the longevity of my pressure treated foundation.

My decision was to order 3/4in crushed stone from my local landscaping supply yard to help drainage and keep my foundation dry. I was only planning to cover the shed area but then figured I might as well cover that whole corner of the backyard. I had spent enough time cleaning the area and would ate to see that jungle of weeds coming back in a couple months.

So here it is, 3 yards of crushed stone (@ $38/yard + delivery) or about 7,500lbs (about 3 tons) of stones which should yield about a 2-3in bed of stone in this 15ft x 20ft area.

This was another hard day's work. Lots of trip with the wheelbarrow but it slowly took shape.

You'll notice I didn't put stones on that area in the middle. This is because based on the feedback I got and some research I did that I was going to install 1/4in galvanized mesh nailed on the joist and beams all around to prevent any animals from making a home of my shed's foundation.

I used a the plastic caps of roofing nails along with exterior grade 4D 1 1/2in nails. This was to make sure I could hold that mesh securely until I back-filled stones over it and install a face board over it down the road.

The hardware mesh can be found in 2ft & 4ft width at the hardware store. I used shears to cut it to length.

Finally I finished the weekend by starting to put up some Tyvek Home wrap. This not really necessary given that this wall won't be exposed to the elements but I will get the benefits of an air tight seal which will be important in my next project of insulating the garage.

 

[Trey T]

looks like a solid foundation!!

 

[garagelogician]

Excellent work, keep it up!

 

[brownbagg]

that way overkill, you could of built a five by ten shed out of treated wood, sit it on the ground, done. no ripping walls, no dumpster, no concrete or sono tube. just treated wood floor shed on ground, no attach to anything. hell you could buy one already built at lowes

 

[Pathfinders]

Looks like you are over killing it. Great job man.

 

[captain14]

I'm tired thinking about moving all the stone to the shed area.
How far is it?

It's not overkill for the project. He's learning a lot by doing research and asking for input here. And I bet he will be satisfied after everything is completed and he closed the door for the first time.

 

[Hubscrub66]

Nice project , I could use one too.

 

[6768rogues]

That gravel was expensive. I pay about $11 per ton.

 

[jonesg]

I'm tired thinking about moving all the stone to the shed area.
How far is it?

It's not overkill for the project. He's learning a lot by doing research and asking for input here. And I bet he will be satisfied after everything is completed and he closed the door for the first time.

Any project designed by committee will be over designed.
That foundation is suitable for driving a car onto.
I'm a baker by trade, I've never built a garage or done a foundation but I have enough common sense to know what is overboard.

Too many cooks... and all that.

 

[naf305]

That gravel was expensive. I pay about $11 per ton.

Living in the NYC suburbs is all you expect. Everything is overpriced. Want to look at my tax bill?

 

[naf305]

that way overkill, you could of built a five by ten shed out of treated wood, sit it on the ground, done. no ripping walls, no dumpster, no concrete or sono tube. just treated wood floor shed on ground, no attach to anything. hell you could buy one already built at lowes

Looks like you are over killing it. Great job man.

I may be overkilling. If I am then great. I'm learning as I go and then last I want 10-15 years down the road is to look back with regrets wishing I had done something better or different. My main concern is that this is a lean-to shed that will extend the roof of my garage and where the siding will be done so the 2 (now connected) structures will look like one. If my shed decide to sink or shift it could ruin the siding job.

So when making a design decision, in lack of experience or knowledge, I will always go with the more cautious options. Plus time here is not really a factor. I want to build it well and be proud of what I did. I realize though that this is just a shed and that I'm not going to live in it. I have to remind myself of that sometimes.

Thanks for the feedback, I need it.

 

[naf305]

I'm tired thinking about moving all the stone to the shed area.
How far is it?

Yeah moving the stones was a day job but luckily it was just on the other side of the garage. Maybe 20ft away. I'm glad I did though. This whole area that was now fresh graded dirt would have been a mud bath with the storms around here. The dog would have loved it. I have a clean area to work which was the way to go.

It's not overkill for the project. He's learning a lot by doing research and asking for input here. And I bet he will be satisfied after everything is completed and he closed the door for the first time.

Thanks for the support. I'm glad you appreciate the effort I'm putting in and YES I will be thrilled to show off my brand new shed and close that door for the first time.

 

[naf305]

Step 8: Joist and Floor installation

Alright for that 2 weekend (i know not going as fast as I want) were spent finishing putting up the home wrap (mainly to protect temporarily the plywood on the garage wall from the elements) and installing the floor joist and floor.

Here is a pic of the completed homewrap with tape. This will also serve as an air barrier between the uninsulated shed and the insulated garage. I finally invested in a stapler hammer. God I love using the right tools. It made installing the home wrap on a ladder way easier. I know, I know, I'm sure some of you are thinking "How did you not use a stapler hammer?". I had a regular spring stapler already and thought I would work just as good. It worked somewhat (lots of staples to remove or hammer in) so I figured I try a different approach for the top rows. Live and Learn.

.

Then on the install of the floor joist. When marking my layout I wanted at first to do the joist 16in on center. I have a 5ft span so It had to be a little more than that so I could fit 3 joist in the middle. I then realized that my post base were in the way and not in-line either so I had to get a little creative to keep them straight and parallel (though not always possible). Also because of the fact that my beams were not exactly parallel either I had to cut my joist to custom length to get a snug fit.

I had to use some more concealed joist hanger LC26Z where I did not have the space to nail a the regular flanged ones (when too close to a post base).

I'll just have to carefully mark my joist on the plywood floor to nail it in the right place.

Here is the finished layout. Everything is still flush which made me very hapy.

Then I worked on the joist blocking. I made sure to install then staggered (so I could nail them) and every 4ft (the width of the plywood sheet) so that one side of the staggered line would support one sheet and the other side another sheet.

Then I filled the gap between my garage wall/sill plate with spray foam (as discussed in this thread).

Finally I setup my sawhorses with 2 sacrificial studs to give me a work surface to cut my sheets of plywood. Those a T&G so I cut them 5 feet wide. I did 4 of them and then I'll use scrap pieces for the end. I didn't feel like buying a 5th sheet only to throw away 5 3ft pieces in the dumpster.

I took time to get a snug fit on the garage wall which is a little wavy as well as marking the location of my beams and joists so I knew where to nail.

I used some construction adhesive everywhere the plywood would sit before nailing.

Here is the final floor. I'm quite happy with it.

I finished by moving my sunshade tarp back to hopefully prevent as much rain from sitting on my brand new floor. The storm is coming!

 

[rustrunner]

Is that flooring plywood or particle board? I'm not a builder, but I would have used pressure treated plywood because of ground moisture.

 

[captain14]

We all have those issues of not making enough progress or working fast enough.
Sometimes I just use the excuse the laborers failed to show up.

 

[naf305]

Is that flooring plywood or particle board? I'm not a builder, but I would have used pressure treated plywood because of ground moisture.

what have I done. I now question all my choices....

I used T&G Dryguard OSB. I hope I don't have to pull this out and redo it.