Lean-to Shed Construction Progress
- Thread starter naf305
- Start date
captain14
Well-known member
Piece of Mind not having to worry about the old OSB board soaking up the water
Now on to the project and getting your shop up and running .
Now on to the project and getting your shop up and running .
madoc1
Well-known member
good job. looks like that power planer is the tool to have for the job. i wouldn't have thought of that. ( not a wood worker like you)
jim
jim
Finish the floor & start the wall framing
So last weekend I only had a day to work on the shed. I had to take the sweet family to the beach on sunday. I'm glad we did it was a really nice day.
So as mentioned in my previous I didn't finish the floor because I needed to remove that one fence panel to get more work room to complete it. I had put together a quick temporary fence on the other side of it to make sure Zoey The Brittany won't escape.
First I started by removing the vinyl fence. It was a lot easier than I thought. Then I installed the final 4x6 beam. The one that covers the concrete footings but also allows me to be flush with the garage walls.
You'll notice it is at an angle to compensate for the misalignment of the footings. While my footings were level they could have use a little more squaring. I was able to get my whole floor square though by measuring the diagonals of my floor.
Here is the beam in place.
I had countersunk the hole where I wanted my 6in and 8in timber lag screws to be. Then used some clamps to keep it together while I verified my square and screw everything in. That things ain't going nowhere.
Then, as I did on the rest of the floor, I installed the 1/4in hardware mesh fastening it with exterior nails (I figured staples would rust quickly) and plastic caps from roofing nails. Backfilled with stones and it looks pretty already
. I also installed the rest of the pressure treated plywood. I used the cut off from the 4 other sheets I had for that end.
And finally the big moment I had been waiting for: Framing walls. I feels good to be there. Tool belt, framing pencil, speed square and tape measurer, here I go. I had watched too many you tube videos of others doing this. I was really excited to do it myself and "learn" for the first time and hwo know do a few mistakes along the way.
I decided to start with the lean-to side that will sit against the garage wall. I know a lot of lean-to plans don't call for a wall on that side. But I decided to go with one for multiple reasons. I needed better support for the future rafters of a decreased roof pitch and also cavities to hold some additional insulation (to insulate the garage not the shed). It will also give some anchor point to tie the shed structure to the garage wall.
So I picked up some regular 2x4 plus one PT 2x4 for the bottom plate. I laid the top and bottom plate next to each other to mark my studs 16in on center.
My patio floor wasn't exactly flat but enough that I didn't have too much of a hard time to frame this wall together. I picked up my new Dewalt framing nailer with some 3in galvanized nails and quickly got this one wall put together.
You'll notice I left the last stud out. This is because this side of the wall is only 1 of the 3 sections of a 20ft long wall. Turns out I can only carry an 8ft section by myself. The open end will but with the next one and once both section are nailed in I will add the missing stud that will sit exactly over that split.
I continued with the next 8ft section (this one has 2 open ends) and got them both put in place on the shed. I didn't secure them just yet. The rafters from the garage prevent them from tipping over which also mean I had to slide them in at an angle and then raise them up in place.
Then I stopped framing because I realized I had to clean the section of the garage between the rafters. There were some block sealing the soffits and holding the top of the (now removed) cedar shakes. I decided these had to go.
I'll have to backfill those when I install the new rafter to make sure I have proper sealing of the soffit and support for the new rafters.
That's it for last weekend.
So last weekend I only had a day to work on the shed. I had to take the sweet family to the beach on sunday. I'm glad we did it was a really nice day.
So as mentioned in my previous I didn't finish the floor because I needed to remove that one fence panel to get more work room to complete it. I had put together a quick temporary fence on the other side of it to make sure Zoey The Brittany won't escape.
First I started by removing the vinyl fence. It was a lot easier than I thought. Then I installed the final 4x6 beam. The one that covers the concrete footings but also allows me to be flush with the garage walls.
You'll notice it is at an angle to compensate for the misalignment of the footings. While my footings were level they could have use a little more squaring. I was able to get my whole floor square though by measuring the diagonals of my floor.
Here is the beam in place.
I had countersunk the hole where I wanted my 6in and 8in timber lag screws to be. Then used some clamps to keep it together while I verified my square and screw everything in. That things ain't going nowhere.
Then, as I did on the rest of the floor, I installed the 1/4in hardware mesh fastening it with exterior nails (I figured staples would rust quickly) and plastic caps from roofing nails. Backfilled with stones and it looks pretty already
. I also installed the rest of the pressure treated plywood. I used the cut off from the 4 other sheets I had for that end.
And finally the big moment I had been waiting for: Framing walls. I feels good to be there. Tool belt, framing pencil, speed square and tape measurer, here I go. I had watched too many you tube videos of others doing this. I was really excited to do it myself and "learn" for the first time and hwo know do a few mistakes along the way.
I decided to start with the lean-to side that will sit against the garage wall. I know a lot of lean-to plans don't call for a wall on that side. But I decided to go with one for multiple reasons. I needed better support for the future rafters of a decreased roof pitch and also cavities to hold some additional insulation (to insulate the garage not the shed). It will also give some anchor point to tie the shed structure to the garage wall.
So I picked up some regular 2x4 plus one PT 2x4 for the bottom plate. I laid the top and bottom plate next to each other to mark my studs 16in on center.
My patio floor wasn't exactly flat but enough that I didn't have too much of a hard time to frame this wall together. I picked up my new Dewalt framing nailer with some 3in galvanized nails and quickly got this one wall put together.
You'll notice I left the last stud out. This is because this side of the wall is only 1 of the 3 sections of a 20ft long wall. Turns out I can only carry an 8ft section by myself. The open end will but with the next one and once both section are nailed in I will add the missing stud that will sit exactly over that split.
I continued with the next 8ft section (this one has 2 open ends) and got them both put in place on the shed. I didn't secure them just yet. The rafters from the garage prevent them from tipping over which also mean I had to slide them in at an angle and then raise them up in place.
Then I stopped framing because I realized I had to clean the section of the garage between the rafters. There were some block sealing the soffits and holding the top of the (now removed) cedar shakes. I decided these had to go.
I'll have to backfill those when I install the new rafter to make sure I have proper sealing of the soffit and support for the new rafters.
That's it for last weekend.
gunguy
Well-known member
Looking good!
Jim
Jim
Finallygotit
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Cool!
Walls going up. It should move along with good pace now.
I was excited to put my walls up. Was planning on putting the rafters and roof decking on the next day but it rained on me. All my nice exterior plywood got soaked in 4" of rain. I was completely blindsided by the rain otherwise I would have covered it. Oh well.
Bret
I was excited to put my walls up. Was planning on putting the rafters and roof decking on the next day but it rained on me. All my nice exterior plywood got soaked in 4" of rain. I was completely blindsided by the rain otherwise I would have covered it. Oh well.
Bret
bcoke
Well-known member
naf305 you job is looking great, I always build for 100 years so overbuilding is an oximoron! I did shutter when the osb was put down as a subfloor but I would have suggested exterior ply, PT is ok but only feel that has to go where there might be ground contact......as the floor framing it is great no problem ..........now do not take this as a complaint as you did well but I put roof felt on the ground under the stone as a moisture barrier not really neccessary but something I do to keep the weed down also.......The expert that said just put it on the ground and be done with it should have offered to come and jack it up when the outside wall sinks into the earth 5 years down the road and it pulls away fron the garage!!!! Now I am frugal [wife says cheap] but I would have used the garages framing fo the shed back and screw [lag] a ledger board to it and cover the tyvec with plywood for hanging things ......thr roof rafters would be hung off the ledger with joist hangers.......just my opinion, but you are doing a great job......I also like to put a second layer of plywood glued and screwed over the subfloor for a firm floor with no give due to my fat body.............the two door idea is great and needed imho as 20 feet is a long corridor [only 5 feet wide ] for "stuff to get lost in the back.....make sure there is enough lighting and your good to go [any windows would kill wall space but doors with glass would give so ambient light] keep up the great work and enjoy the excuses for more TOOLS! broke
astroracer
Well-known member
I am of the same thought. The garage wall is already there. It is a waste of lumber and space to build another wall back to back with the garage. Now you have reduced your interior space by 6" once you get the sheeting up. The interior dimension of your lean-to is now only 4'... Pull out that wall, add a ledger and simply sheet it with OSB. You will be good..
The same thought applies to the footings. A ledger along the bottom of the garage wall would have carried your 4 x 4's just fine, no need for the inner footings...
I know this all moot but I have to point it out. With a ledger along the bottom of the garage you could have run your joists perpendicular to the wall. Joist hangers on both ends with a double header on the outside wall. It have been very strong and much less "springy" then running the joists the long way as you did. Just some insight, I hope you don't take it wrong.
Mark
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Thanks for the support. This is my first major build. I want this to last a lifetime and show it to my grandkids one day and still be standing sound and proud.
This was also my intent in posting to this thread and get live feedback on things that I'm doing. I should have planned better and think this through to avoid my mistake. But I sure will never forget about it. Lesson learned.
I am of the same thought. The garage wall is already there. It is a waste of lumber and space to build another wall back to back with the garage. Now you have reduced your interior space by 6" once you get the sheeting up. The interior dimension of your lean-to is now only 4'... Pull out that wall, add a ledger and simply sheet it with OSB. You will be good..
The same thought applies to the footings. A ledger along the bottom of the garage wall would have carried your 4 x 4's just fine, no need for the inner footings...
I know this all moot but I have to point it out. With a ledger along the bottom of the garage you could have run your joists perpendicular to the wall. Joist hangers on both ends with a double header on the outside wall. It have been very strong and much less "springy" then running the joists the long way as you did. Just some insight, I hope you don't take it wrong.
Mark
I hear you both and your lessons are well received. It was definitely a decision that I made thinking it would not be strong enough, maybe in lack of experience building structured like this. I'm no structural engineer.
About the stud wall against the garage: I'm going to be insulating the garage from the inside and redo the siding on the 3 other wall to put an additional layer of foam insulation on top of the sheeting before installing my new vinyl siding (no more cedar shake to paint every decade). My though was that the stud wall would server 2 purposes:
- Provide space to add another layer of insulation prior sheeting this one wall on the inside.
- Transfer the load of the rafters directly onto the shed foundation. I know the garage is in good shape but my roof pitch will decrease at least by half to 3/12 and with a few heavy snow storms in the winter I wanted to be cautious.
You are probably right though that this may be overkill. Story of my build. In lack of knowledge and experience, I'd rather be it too much than not enough.
I definitely plan now to top the subfloor with another layer of 1/4 underlayment or plywood that I'll paint. I'll probably just screw it in with no glue in case I ever need to replace a section of it.
We are exactly on the same page. A single door would overtime create a no-man zone in the back of the shed. I didn't realize door we so expensive until I started looking for one.
The one on the short side will have to look the same as the one I will eventually install on the garage. The two doors will be on the same wall on opposite sides and be facing the house. I want the sight of them to be appealing. I'll probably get that one from Home Depot.
Right now I'm thinking about this 32x80 steel door.
For the long side, I'm still debating on what to do. I've been looking for premade double door but everything is expensive.
I did find these that look nice but still a bit pricey.
I might end up building a set myself though I have yet to draw plans of find a set of plans that will include windows in them and then finding the right windows may be just as difficult. Any thoughts here are appreciated.
Thanks again for the feedback!
captain14
Well-known member
I'm not an expert but wouldn't a steel door require periodic painting and maintenance?
Is fiberglass an option with an out swing door?
Exposed to the weather without an overhang of any kind?
Just a thought how about a carriage door since you enjoy working with wood?
Two thread posted by GJ members Fergies "Derelict Garage" and
one by Thruxton (unknown title)
Not sure if the pictures have been updated Since the Photobucket event. I think Fergie is still active with another garage thread in a new property.
Is fiberglass an option with an out swing door?
Exposed to the weather without an overhang of any kind?
Just a thought how about a carriage door since you enjoy working with wood?
Two thread posted by GJ members Fergies "Derelict Garage" and
one by Thruxton (unknown title)
Not sure if the pictures have been updated Since the Photobucket event. I think Fergie is still active with another garage thread in a new property.
bcoke
Well-known member
Do not forget to check out lumber yards,surplus centers,restore [habitat for humanity] and the closeout /wrong order returns at big box stores also craigs list.......I am a thrift yankee but on a shed or garage you do not need top of the line which you might find at a great discount as it was the wrong size-color etc, as I understand it you need two similar [seen from the house] and the third could be different............you should get them before finishing the framing so you are not locked into a size........have fun........bobbycoke
Wall Framing & Garage overhang removal
This felt like a great weekend with a lot done.
First I ordered my doors as suggested before so I knew exactly what rough framing I needed to build my walls with.
I got a steel door from Home Depot. A 36x80 6-Lite outswing exterior door. It comes primed so I will have to paint it and probably repaint it every several years but this way I know I can find a matching set for when I install the other door on the garage when I get to it.
I then also got a set of double fiberglass doors (2 - 6 Lite 30x78) from ShedDoorNMore.com. Those are outswing as well. A little pricey but should last a lifetime. I was entertaining the idea of building a set myself but couldn't find those windows anywhere online. Anyway I needed to make a decision so I could build my walls so I settle on this.
I started by finishing my long lean-to wall. I installed metal brackets (as shown below) to get the wall level and plumb since this old garage wall is not exactly flat.
I then continued on to the other walls. I had a 8ft wall on the garage side (plus bottom and top plate). I cut my side and opposite wall studs 15in to give me a 3/12 roof pitch (15in over 5ft make 3in every feet).
The rough opening for my entrance door requires a 38x82 opening. Right the top plate is sitting at 82 1/2in. I'll have to cut a 1/2 plywood piece to fill that gap. The size of the door makes it so that I don't have room for a header which will be fine on this side since there will be virtually no load on that top plate. The rafters will spread the load on the outer walls not on the side walls.
Taking shape.
The outer wall with the double door will get a proper 2x6 header. Here is the cross-section of the header. Again because the wall in only 82in tall I used a 3/4in plywood filler to get proper support with my top plate.
Then I had to install the top plates to connect all my wall sections with proper overlap. This is when I realized I had to deal with the garage overhang. It is in the way of installing my top plate for the lean-to wall and will be in the way of installing my rafters and roof down the road. I had to cut a section of about a foot to get proper clearance.
I started by cutting the roof shingle following the line and making sure to leave 2 full layers of singled by the line of the cut. I used a straight blade to get a clean cut then lifted the shingles panels one at a time to keep this clean as possible. I'm glad the dumpster is still on my driveway.
This left me with with the roof underlayment and sheeting exposed.
I then used my circular saw to cut through the sheeting just deep enough to score the rafters underneath. It took a beating on my new blade but it was a cheap framing one anyway that I can replace next week.
I then went with the sawzall to cut along the rafters to make it easy to remove one section at a time.
I decided to then trim those rafters using the sawzall again which I won't need anyway and get this all cleaned up nicely.
At that point I had plenty of room to work on my double top plates which you can see in the picture.
I don't have a picture of it but I then filled those gaps between the old rafters with pieces of 2x6 nailed to the top plate of the garage wall and to the old rafters. This will give a nice flush surface to **** my future rafters. I'll eventually seal the remaining gaps from inside the garage with spray foam.
This was the end of day 2 this weekend. My last issue was to rainproof the site making I don't get rain inside my new wall or inside the garage now that the overhang is gone.
I nailed my tarp to the top plate and then installed some roof felt that I slided under a shingle layer to overlap that wall section, I nailed it in place with roofing nails. I'll probably replace the bottom couple layers of roof shingles anyway when I roof the shed.
Overall progress pic with the perspective from the house. It is looking good.
Thanks for watching!
This felt like a great weekend with a lot done.
First I ordered my doors as suggested before so I knew exactly what rough framing I needed to build my walls with.
I got a steel door from Home Depot. A 36x80 6-Lite outswing exterior door. It comes primed so I will have to paint it and probably repaint it every several years but this way I know I can find a matching set for when I install the other door on the garage when I get to it.
I then also got a set of double fiberglass doors (2 - 6 Lite 30x78) from ShedDoorNMore.com. Those are outswing as well. A little pricey but should last a lifetime. I was entertaining the idea of building a set myself but couldn't find those windows anywhere online. Anyway I needed to make a decision so I could build my walls so I settle on this.
I started by finishing my long lean-to wall. I installed metal brackets (as shown below) to get the wall level and plumb since this old garage wall is not exactly flat.
I then continued on to the other walls. I had a 8ft wall on the garage side (plus bottom and top plate). I cut my side and opposite wall studs 15in to give me a 3/12 roof pitch (15in over 5ft make 3in every feet).
The rough opening for my entrance door requires a 38x82 opening. Right the top plate is sitting at 82 1/2in. I'll have to cut a 1/2 plywood piece to fill that gap. The size of the door makes it so that I don't have room for a header which will be fine on this side since there will be virtually no load on that top plate. The rafters will spread the load on the outer walls not on the side walls.
Taking shape.
The outer wall with the double door will get a proper 2x6 header. Here is the cross-section of the header. Again because the wall in only 82in tall I used a 3/4in plywood filler to get proper support with my top plate.
Then I had to install the top plates to connect all my wall sections with proper overlap. This is when I realized I had to deal with the garage overhang. It is in the way of installing my top plate for the lean-to wall and will be in the way of installing my rafters and roof down the road. I had to cut a section of about a foot to get proper clearance.
I started by cutting the roof shingle following the line and making sure to leave 2 full layers of singled by the line of the cut. I used a straight blade to get a clean cut then lifted the shingles panels one at a time to keep this clean as possible. I'm glad the dumpster is still on my driveway.
This left me with with the roof underlayment and sheeting exposed.
I then used my circular saw to cut through the sheeting just deep enough to score the rafters underneath. It took a beating on my new blade but it was a cheap framing one anyway that I can replace next week.
I then went with the sawzall to cut along the rafters to make it easy to remove one section at a time.
I decided to then trim those rafters using the sawzall again which I won't need anyway and get this all cleaned up nicely.
At that point I had plenty of room to work on my double top plates which you can see in the picture.
I don't have a picture of it but I then filled those gaps between the old rafters with pieces of 2x6 nailed to the top plate of the garage wall and to the old rafters. This will give a nice flush surface to **** my future rafters. I'll eventually seal the remaining gaps from inside the garage with spray foam.
This was the end of day 2 this weekend. My last issue was to rainproof the site making I don't get rain inside my new wall or inside the garage now that the overhang is gone.
I nailed my tarp to the top plate and then installed some roof felt that I slided under a shingle layer to overlap that wall section, I nailed it in place with roofing nails. I'll probably replace the bottom couple layers of roof shingles anyway when I roof the shed.
Overall progress pic with the perspective from the house. It is looking good
.
Thanks for watching!
2manyfumes
Member
naf305,
The lean-to shed is coming along good.
The lean-to shed is coming along good.Rafters installation & wall sheeting
I was pumped to get back to working on the shed this weekend with a weather forecast announcing clear weather though a little humid after the big friday storm.
I started by trying to figure out exactly the layout of my rafters (length, angles, birdsmouth...) and ended up using this nice little online calculator from blocklayer.com. This really turned out very useful.
Here is a quick view of what it produces.
So I spent my saturday taking my time cutting all 13 rafters (20in on center) to but to the existing garage rafters.
I had to cut them a little longer on the tall side to them trim exactly to fit the existing garage roof rafters.
I made sure to number them as I went so I could dry fit all of them before securing them.
The online calculator reminded me of thinking about the thickness of the plywood on the wall. The default wall thickness is 4in which made me wonder for a minute why and then I realized I had to install my sheeting first and then snug the birdsmouth over it. 3 1/2in stud + 1/2in plywood gets me my 4in birdsmouth.
My roof pitch being just over 3/12 I got an nice and even 15 degrees angle which made the ridge and fascia cuts easy on the miter saw. The birdsmouth were cut using a jigsaw and I simply used the previous rafter to mark the next.
Day 2 was spent putting up the sheeting on the wall and attaching the rafters . I started by installing a skirt with a 1x4 pressure treated board which gave me a nice foot rest for my plywood sheet.
I then put everything up and cased my double door opening.
Then onto fastening my rafters. I ended up getting those rafter hurricane ties mainly because my framing nailing skills are not up to par yet and those angled sheer nails are hard to get right. And in the spirit of overbuilding it made sense to use ties requiring 16 - 10D x 1 1/2in nails. Those are not going anywhere. On the end rafters I used little angles brackets instead.
I also made slots on the first and last 2 rafters on each side for 2x4 overhang support that will extend 12in out. That way the plywood and fascia board will have something to hang on to.
I'm happy with how everything turned out. I got a nice 16in overhang on my shed.
Also final obligatory pic of the furry child.
Thanks for watching!
I was pumped to get back to working on the shed this weekend with a weather forecast announcing clear weather though a little humid after the big friday storm.
I started by trying to figure out exactly the layout of my rafters (length, angles, birdsmouth...) and ended up using this nice little online calculator from blocklayer.com. This really turned out very useful.
Here is a quick view of what it produces.
So I spent my saturday taking my time cutting all 13 rafters (20in on center) to but to the existing garage rafters.
I had to cut them a little longer on the tall side to them trim exactly to fit the existing garage roof rafters.
I made sure to number them as I went so I could dry fit all of them before securing them.
The online calculator reminded me of thinking about the thickness of the plywood on the wall. The default wall thickness is 4in which made me wonder for a minute why and then I realized I had to install my sheeting first and then snug the birdsmouth over it. 3 1/2in stud + 1/2in plywood gets me my 4in birdsmouth.
My roof pitch being just over 3/12 I got an nice and even 15 degrees angle which made the ridge and fascia cuts easy on the miter saw. The birdsmouth were cut using a jigsaw and I simply used the previous rafter to mark the next.
Day 2 was spent putting up the sheeting on the wall and attaching the rafters . I started by installing a skirt with a 1x4 pressure treated board which gave me a nice foot rest for my plywood sheet.
I then put everything up and cased my double door opening.
Then onto fastening my rafters. I ended up getting those rafter hurricane ties mainly because my framing nailing skills are not up to par yet and those angled sheer nails are hard to get right. And in the spirit of overbuilding it made sense to use ties requiring 16 - 10D x 1 1/2in nails. Those are not going anywhere. On the end rafters I used little angles brackets instead.
I also made slots on the first and last 2 rafters on each side for 2x4 overhang support that will extend 12in out. That way the plywood and fascia board will have something to hang on to.
I'm happy with how everything turned out. I got a nice 16in overhang on my shed.
Also final obligatory pic of the furry child.
Thanks for watching!
Finallygotit
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Nice job!
captain14
Well-known member
Nice job With this weekends Work.
How Many trips to the store for this portion of the project?
Have you posted your furry friend in the thread called
" Dogs of GJ" ?
Any electrical work to do?
How Many trips to the store for this portion of the project?
Have you posted your furry friend in the thread called
" Dogs of GJ" ?
Any electrical work to do?
Just one trip to the store. I needed a missing 2x6 rafter, the 1x6 skirt and fascia pressure treated boards and the rafter ties.
I'll have to check that thread.
Yes as soon a I have finished the roof and the shed is waterproof. Going to put couple of light fixture I side. Would fluorescent tube handle the temperature changes of an uninsulated space? I'm going to need also an outdoor fixture maybe with a motion sensor.
I'm receiving my double door tomorrow. My plans for next weekend are shaping up though it will be probably limited to roofing.
captain14
Well-known member
They make a fluorescent fixture (starter or ballast) for colder weather but there may be better options that some of the other members can recommend.
Think About a couple Of electrical outlets inside and outside. May have a nice day
When you can work inside and keep the mess out.
Think About a couple Of electrical outlets inside and outside. May have a nice day
When you can work inside and keep the mess out.
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gunguy
Well-known member
I second the idea of a couple of outlets both inside and out. In the spirit of overbuild of course You never know when, but they will come in handy some day and now is the time to add them.
You're making good progress!
Jim
You never know when, but they will come in handy some day and now is the time to add them.You're making good progress!
Jim
Finallygotit
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I would suggest getting a couple of four foot LED light fixtures. I got mine at Costco for about $26 each on sale (click here). Then no worries about cold or heat and they put out a lot of light for very little wattage.
I second the motion for indoor and outdoor outlets. Can never have too many.
HTH
I second the motion for indoor and outdoor outlets. Can never have too many.
HTH
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Roofing
Sorry for no updates last week, I got busy with work but I did manage to finish the roof last weekend and I am really happy with how it turned out and how the connection to the existing garage roof worked.
So I started by cutting my overhang support 2x4 for which I had the cutout on the last 2 rafters. This made for a solid surface to rest the sheeting on and to nail the fascia board on the gable end.
I then proceeded to sheeting the rafters with 1/2in plywood. Honestly the hardest part about this step was to get the plywood sheet on the roof by myself.
Next step was to put down roof felt over it. I use regular staples to secure it in place.
Next I installed the fascia boards all around and a drip edge nailed over the roof felt and fascia board.
The next day I started installing the asphalt shingles. I used a starter roll which has an strong adhesive on the back. You simply lay it down and peel the paper on the back.
Now I realized a days later looking back at the pictures that I had installed the starter strip upside down. The side with the tar spots is supposed to be on the edge of the roof where the edge of the first row of shingles will be able to be glued down.
I ended up yesterday using a tube of roof cement in my caulk gun to glue the edge of each shingle down to the starter strip. Minor mistake and glad I was able to fix it before the next storm.
Then the fun part of laying down your shingles and nailing them. It was a pain to get them up on the roof but otherwise it wasn't too hard to install. You just really have to keep you lines straight and figure out the proper overlap and offset of each row. After the first few row and went a lot quicker.
Also it was important to check the distance between the last row of shingle on the garage roof and my drip edge. I needed to make sure I had a multiple of 5in which the width of the exposed side of a row of shingles. I lucked with 80in thus 16 rows.
At that point I has shingle all the way to the existing roof. I paused for a minute to figure out how I was going to properly connect my last row to the existing roof. I watched a few videos of guys doing roof repairs to come up with a plan.
I had to remove the nails of the row above so that I could slide my last row underneath and nail both rows back. You have to be careful not to break the shingle flap while putting nails back in. So I had to take my time.
Here is the final pic of the two roofs connected. You can't even notice it!
It really is starting to look like a real shed.
Thank for watching!
Sorry for no updates last week, I got busy with work but I did manage to finish the roof last weekend and I am really happy with how it turned out and how the connection to the existing garage roof worked.
So I started by cutting my overhang support 2x4 for which I had the cutout on the last 2 rafters. This made for a solid surface to rest the sheeting on and to nail the fascia board on the gable end.
I then proceeded to sheeting the rafters with 1/2in plywood. Honestly the hardest part about this step was to get the plywood sheet on the roof by myself.
Next step was to put down roof felt over it. I use regular staples to secure it in place.
Next I installed the fascia boards all around and a drip edge nailed over the roof felt and fascia board.
The next day I started installing the asphalt shingles. I used a starter roll which has an strong adhesive on the back. You simply lay it down and peel the paper on the back.
Now I realized a days later looking back at the pictures that I had installed the starter strip upside down. The side with the tar spots is supposed to be on the edge of the roof where the edge of the first row of shingles will be able to be glued down.
I ended up yesterday using a tube of roof cement in my caulk gun to glue the edge of each shingle down to the starter strip. Minor mistake and glad I was able to fix it before the next storm.
Then the fun part of laying down your shingles and nailing them. It was a pain to get them up on the roof but otherwise it wasn't too hard to install. You just really have to keep you lines straight and figure out the proper overlap and offset of each row. After the first few row and went a lot quicker.
Also it was important to check the distance between the last row of shingle on the garage roof and my drip edge. I needed to make sure I had a multiple of 5in which the width of the exposed side of a row of shingles. I lucked with 80in thus 16 rows.
At that point I has shingle all the way to the existing roof. I paused for a minute to figure out how I was going to properly connect my last row to the existing roof. I watched a few videos of guys doing roof repairs to come up with a plan.
I had to remove the nails of the row above so that I could slide my last row underneath and nail both rows back. You have to be careful not to break the shingle flap while putting nails back in. So I had to take my time.
Here is the final pic of the two roofs connected. You can't even notice it!
It really is starting to look like a real shed.
Thank for watching!
Stuart in MN
Well-known member
The roof looks good, and now you're rain tight on top.
Finallygotit
ALLIANCE MEMBER
How nice is that. And no more tarp.
captain14
Well-known member
Looks Good ! Are you glad you did it now?
Doors and siding next or siding then Doors?
Exterior Lights and plugs
I bet you will be more confident during your next home Project!
Over building is acceptable here on GJ.
Doors and siding next or siding then Doors?
Exterior Lights and plugs
I bet you will be more confident during your next home Project!
Over building is acceptable here on GJ.
Doors, painting, electrical and some insulation (for the lean-to wall).
As for the siding I have a bit of a dilemma. The front and back of the shed are flush with the garage. My plan is to do the siding of those walls so it looks like one big structure (shed + garage). I need to figure out a way on how I'm going to do the shed siding first and eventually (maybe next spring) do the garage and connect the two.
dgithens1
Well-known member
Really well done project
Walls Sheeting (cont'd) & Door installation
So this Labor day weekend wasn't as productive as I wanted mainly because it was raining for most part of it and then when the sun finally came up I had to spend some quality time with the family.
But I managed to at least finish my walls sheeting, put up the home wrap and install my doors.
I installed those double fiberglass door from ShedDoorsnmore.com. I have to say, they are quite nice and feel very well built. It took me a little to build the trim around as I needed a 1 1/4in thick trim to screw the doors in place.
Here is the double doors installed. I'll have to seal the trim and install some flashing and drip edge next week.
Next I went to pick my single steel door I had ordered from HD. It came well packaged in a crate on a pallet. I had to rent a flatbed truck to bring it back to the house.
I picked up some door knobs and some flex wrap flashing tape to prep the opening before putting the door in.
Then I put the door in. It felt so good when it fitted in like a glove. All that planning and careful measuring came to use.
I finished with a thick bead of calk all around to prevent any water from sipping in. I may have to redo the trip of that door at some point to account for the 1in foam board + siding that will cover this whole wall (shed + garage).
In the end I'm really happy. I gave the wife a tour. Her first question was: "Is it done yet?". Me: Sigh... Yes soon. But she does think it looks really nice. She just wishes I was done already.
Final overall pic:
Thanks for watching!
So this Labor day weekend wasn't as productive as I wanted mainly because it was raining for most part of it and then when the sun finally came up I had to spend some quality time with the family.
But I managed to at least finish my walls sheeting, put up the home wrap and install my doors.
I installed those double fiberglass door from ShedDoorsnmore.com. I have to say, they are quite nice and feel very well built. It took me a little to build the trim around as I needed a 1 1/4in thick trim to screw the doors in place.
Here is the double doors installed. I'll have to seal the trim and install some flashing and drip edge next week.
Next I went to pick my single steel door I had ordered from HD. It came well packaged in a crate on a pallet. I had to rent a flatbed truck to bring it back to the house.
I picked up some door knobs and some flex wrap flashing tape to prep the opening before putting the door in.
Then I put the door in. It felt so good when it fitted in like a glove. All that planning and careful measuring came to use.
I finished with a thick bead of calk all around to prevent any water from sipping in. I may have to redo the trip of that door at some point to account for the 1in foam board + siding that will cover this whole wall (shed + garage).
In the end I'm really happy. I gave the wife a tour. Her first question was: "Is it done yet?". Me: Sigh... Yes soon. But she does think it looks really nice. She just wishes I was done already
. Final overall pic:
Thanks for watching!
AldeanFan
Well-known member
Looks great, I really like the doors
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
gunguy
Well-known member
I went back to the beginning just to review, and all I can say is, wow! Even with the minor setback on the flooring, you've made very good progress in my opinion. It's now for the most part weather tight and you're on the homestretch. I'm impressed..
Out of curiosity, have you kept track of the number of build hours?
Jim
Out of curiosity, have you kept track of the number of build hours?
Jim
I haven't kept track of my build hours but I started the weekend before July 4th with ground preparation (grading the area, removing all of the weeds...). I figured I spent an average of 5h-6h/day every weekend. So thus far I should between 120-140h into it. I know this sounds probably a lot (my wife sure thinks I spent too much time on it already) but it was a real learning experience where I had to figure out every step and learning how to do them (or redo them) and I wasted a long weekend redoing this floor.
If I had to build another one I could probably do it in less than half the time but that will be for another life.
It does feel empowering in then end to know that, given the time, you can learn and do just about anything. Also being able to share my progress here in this thread, along with the strong support of the GJ members, gave me motivation to make progress.
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larry4406
Well-known member
Nice lean to shed!
I don't understand the notching of the rafters for the flat 2x4's. If that was to create the soffit, the shed end gable could have been framed low to allow 2x4 framing to run over which is hung off the first rafter from the end.
Thanks for the lead on the shed doors.
I don't understand the notching of the rafters for the flat 2x4's. If that was to create the soffit, the shed end gable could have been framed low to allow 2x4 framing to run over which is hung off the first rafter from the end.
Thanks for the lead on the shed doors.
captain14
Well-known member
Nice write up for the door installation.
Someone here will chime in for how long the house wrap can be exposed to the Leon's te before it starts to degrade.
Couple of pavers in front of each door to help control the dirt/mud in the area maybe.
120+ hours. Not bad for your first large scale project. When it's finished does she know she'll never find you since you're be out in the "workshop"?
It's hard working by yourself but you gained invaluable experience.
Someone here will chime in for how long the house wrap can be exposed to the Leon's te before it starts to degrade.
Couple of pavers in front of each door to help control the dirt/mud in the area maybe.
120+ hours. Not bad for your first large scale project. When it's finished does she know she'll never find you since you're be out in the "workshop"?
It's hard working by yourself but you gained invaluable experience.
Trey T
Well-known member
Good job w/ the progress. How did you connect the felt to the existing roof? Did you have to remove at least the starter row of existing roof?
So at one point I had to cut the existing overhang from the roof. I cut along the line of shingles with my circular saw and eventually cut the leftover rafters with my sawzall.
All I had to do was to remove the nails from the last row of shingles so I could slip underneath the felt and over a new row of shingles over.
Not sure if I explain this right but basically at the junction of the 2 roofs there is one row with 3 layers of shingles.
I'm no expert framer so I won't pretend this was done with any other intent to provide solid support for the overhang. Given it's size (only 12in) I could have probably butted the 2x4 without going through the next 2 rafters.
I can't recall where exactly the idea came from but I must have seen it done somewhere. There is a guy on YouTube with a tone of good videos about framing design. He uses Sketchup to discuss different scenarios. Actually find his channel: https://www.youtube.com/user/gregvancom. Definitely worth a watch for you beginners out there. I have a feeling I must have got the idea from him.
In the end it wasn't too hard to build and I knew it was a safe choice given the the 2x4 has 2 rafters to lean on.
JRC3
Well-known member
You probably need a way to hold those doors open or the wind is gonna slam them. I have one of these stop/catches on my garage entry door. It opens in, but put a little silicone behind these as you screw them and they might hold up well outside.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-3-in-Satin-Nickel-Magnetic-Doorstop-with-Catch-16096/202034035
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-3-in-Satin-Nickel-Magnetic-Doorstop-with-Catch-16096/202034035