Lean-To Shelter Design Questions

[aka Larry]

I've been needing to build a shelter off the back of my shop for two years now so I think I'm going to try and get it done before winter. Basically I need a covered area for firewood and my utility trailer. It will be about 7.5' deep x 16' long.

I'm trying to decide if using joist hangers will be worth the coin. Opinions on that? The corrugated roofing material will be the same stuff I used on my awning as seen here:

Here's my sketch. Please critique as I'm open to all suggestions.

 

[p_mori7]

That will work.

You may want to consider some shims between your steel siding and the 2x8 ledger board so you don't squash down the ridges too much.

I would rest the purlins atop the ledger board.

 

[jim whitney]

Why not rest your roof rafters on top of the 2x8 and toe nail them?

 

[CNGsaves]

Do you have the horizontal metal siding where the ledger board will attach ?? Is there way to slide flashing underneath that joint so you will have proper waterproof setup ?? If not, what is your gameplan for that connection ??

Drawing looks good. I'd use pressure treated ledger board. Further, some PT can also be painted which would give it best chance to never have any rot problems later, so I'd paint all sides of ledger board.

 

[gungatim]

that's pretty much how I did mine, but I added a ledger board under the rafters as well as the one the rafters are nailed to. I also used joist hangers--they are cheap.

however, I did 2 things different. first I removed the siding, unscrew it and trim to fit around the ledger boards instead of mounting on top of the steel.

also I used 2x4 for the rafters, not 2x6, if you go 2' on center and then run horizontal 2x4's across the top to nail the metal roof on, you'll be fine.

my lean-to is 9' high at the building (just under the eave so no water proofing needed), extends out 16' to a height of around 6'.

I used a plan from a book on barns, they call it a horse barn lean-to, so that's basically what I built, except I put the open end against the building. it is designed to be free standing, with treated 4x4 posts, and everything else is just 2x4's...so it should be plenty strong as a lean-to without going overboard on materials...I think I built the whole thing for $900 including the metal for the roof (sides was leftover scrap)

if you enlarge the pic you can see up in the top corner how it is attached to the barn. bolted through to the pole barn posts.

 

[aka Larry]

Do you have the horizontal metal siding where the ledger board will attach ?? Is there way to slide flashing underneath that joint so you will have proper waterproof setup ?? If not, what is your gameplan for that connection ??

Drawing looks good. I'd use pressure treated ledger board. Further, some PT can also be painted which would give it best chance to never have any rot problems later, so I'd paint all sides of ledger board.

Indeed my siding is horizontal. I know I need a plan for that joint, but I'm not sure what that needs to be. What shape(s) sizes is the flashing sold in? I assume a simple "L" shape would do the trick?

Another question, what about the post spacing? Can I go 8'-0" between them using the 2x8?

Thanks for all the input guys!

 

[gungatim]

Indeed my siding is horizontal. I know I need a plan for that joint, but I'm not sure what that needs to be. What shape(s) sizes is the flashing sold in? I assume a simple "L" shape would do the trick?

Another question, what about the post spacing? Can I go 8'-0" between them using the 2x8?

Thanks for all the input guys!

yes.
This is basically what I built, 16x24 run-in horse shed. you can google for more images

https://www.icreatables.com/sheds/16x24-RISS-run-in-single-slope-shed-plans.html

the posts are 8' on center, and it's all 2x4 construction, you do not need 2x8's unless you just want them, but you'll lose headroom and height at the low end if you end up wanting to run a vehicle or something under it.

 

[theoldwizard1]

Indeed my siding is horizontal. I know I need a plan for that joint, but I'm not sure what that needs to be. What shape(s) sizes is the flashing sold in? I assume a simple "L" shape would do the trick?

I have seen some cut out a section of the wall tin about the size pf the ledger board and then bolt the ledger to the posts/studs. The best flashing would match the ridges in you roof panel.

If you use flat flashing, dirt/rain can blow back up under it and then down the wall.

Another question, what about the post spacing? Can I go 8'-0" between them using the 2x8?

Sounds acceptable with such a light roof.

 

[aka Larry]

UPDATE!

With the lean-to now complete, I want to add exterior switched lighting and an outlet. Can I use standard metal boxes, EMT with compression fittings, or do I need to go with PVC to make it water tight?

 

[brownbagg]

just metal conduit will work, its not like its underwater or around a water source

 

[Cyberbear]

An adequate nailer on the building exterior wall such as you show bolted in place is perfect. Using joist hangers to support the rafter ends at the nailer is best and it looks good.

 

[K'ledgeBldr]

An adequate nailer on the building exterior wall such as you show bolted in place is perfect. Using joist hangers to support the rafter ends at the nailer is best and it looks good.

Well, considering that the thing is already built- guess it really doesn't matter now. However, for future reference if anyone reads this "joist hangers" are NOT the correct hardware to use- "rafter hangers" or "rafter connectors" would be the the proper items.

Using rafter hangers not only give a better "connection" of a rafter to a ridge-vs-toenailing to the side or top of the ridge, but it also reduces/prevents uplift. Which can happen very easily with open lean-to's.

 

[wildstyle]

I just completed framing this 12x24 lean too addition off the back of my shop. I lag bolted a 2x10 to the wall at the double top plate. Used 2x8 rafters and did use joist hanger under them as well. I'm just under a 4/12 pitch on the roof.

 

[gungatim]

UPDATE!

With the lean-to now complete, I want to add exterior switched lighting and an outlet. Can I use standard metal boxes, EMT with compression fittings, or do I need to go with PVC to make it water tight?

you can use whatever you want. I just have a couple extention cords hanging on mine for a couple lights, sump pump, radio, etc. never felt the need to do a full "wiring job". If I ever completely enclose it (just have tarps on the end wall), I may run regular wire. as for conduit and pvc, I think that's only for NY or Chicago

 

[aka Larry]

An adequate nailer on the building exterior wall such as you show bolted in place is perfect. Using joist hangers to support the rafter ends at the nailer is best and it looks good.

That's exactly what I did...

 

[aka Larry]

Oops! I forgot to post pics after I finished the wiring:

[/QUOTE]

 

[Jimmy-D]

Nice Job! I'm going to do this on the side of my house.

 

[captain14]

Can you post a photo of the finished lean to?