Leaning towards Rust Bullet. Have you used it?

[Dick in Wisconsin]

Built a 1000sf garage/race shop last year. Strongly leaning towards putting Rust Bullet on the concrete floor. Have talked to Justin and read the other posts.

Concrete guy put a sealer on it which I'll have to grind off. Then fill the saw cuts. I'll be dragging the floor jack across the floor, using jack stands under 3400# race cars, and putting the 3400# race cars on dollies with steel wheels and pushing them back and forth across the floor. Might do some welding down the road; emphasis on "might".

I'm interested in a few things:

1. If you have used Rust Bullet and have had problems with it (either the install or down the road), what were those problems?

2. Are there any things that you learned about during your install that a newbie to DIY floor coating should be aware of? Should I try to do only 50% of the floor at a time? Or tackle the entire 1000sf at once?

3. Three or four or fives years down the road, what has been your experience?

Thanks!

 

[Garage Flooring]

Built a 1000sf garage/race shop last year. Strongly leaning towards putting Rust Bullet on the concrete floor. Have talked to Justin and read the other posts.

Concrete guy put a sealer on it which I'll have to grind off. Then fill the saw cuts. I'll be dragging the floor jack across the floor, using jack stands under 3400# race cars, and putting the 3400# race cars on dollies with steel wheels and pushing them back and forth across the floor. Might do some welding down the road; emphasis on "might".

I'm interested in a few things:

1. If you have used Rust Bullet and have had problems with it (either the install or down the road), what were those problems?

2. Are there any things that you learned about during your install that a newbie to DIY floor coating should be aware of? Should I try to do only 50% of the floor at a time? Or tackle the entire 1000sf at once?

3. Three or four or fives years down the road, what has been your experience?

Thanks!

Have a look at this thread http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=281613 . There are some recent installs there but also EMC2 talks about his years down the road.

We have also added several testimonials and posts with lots of pictures on our site: http://www.garageflooringllc.com/?s=rust+bullet and there are a ton here.

Our installation instructions have been modified multiple times. We have gotten some great feedback and also learned that we need to be really really specific about certain things.

I think the biggest change we have made is shortening the recoat window for everybody based on results when it is really humid. It is vitally important to work within that recoat window to get the best adhesion and we have had a couple of situations where that limit was pushed combined with rain and / or high humidity.

The other clarification, that is still a work in progress is about roller techniques. The product is not like working with regular paint and not like epoxy. The metallic compounds in it and other factors make it really important that you follow the directions AND understand porosity.

 

[keperkey]

Justin,

I am pretty sure I have seen an answer to this question before, but I don't remember where.

With RB, is there the same concern about the moisture test that there is with epoxy. We are buying a house with an attached garage of unknown slab quality and am I am trying to decide if I should leave that garage bare or try to coat it with RB.

We will be building a detached garage that I will do right with vapor barrier so as to avoid that issue and will be coating that floor with either RB or epoxy. Don't want to use epoxy in the attached garage simply because I don't know enough about it.

Also, with respect to floor prep for RB, is the recommendation still to just clean the floor, make sure it is dry and lay down the RB? Is the general recommendation to stay away from grinding unless you have serious problems to fix?

 

[Garage Flooring]

Justin,

I am pretty sure I have seen an answer to this question before, but I don't remember where.

With RB, is there the same concern about the moisture test that there is with epoxy. We are buying a house with an attached garage of unknown slab quality and am I am trying to decide if I should leave that garage bare or try to coat it with RB.

We will be building a detached garage that I will do right with vapor barrier so as to avoid that issue and will be coating that floor with either RB or epoxy. Don't want to use epoxy in the attached garage simply because I don't know enough about it.

Also, with respect to floor prep for RB, is the recommendation still to just clean the floor, make sure it is dry and lay down the RB? Is the general recommendation to stay away from grinding unless you have serious problems to fix?

Regardless of what type of coating you use, moisture in the slab is not good. I would do a basic moisture test. The fall back option, if you decide to leave the floor uncoated should be a minimum of a densifier and conditioner.

"Also, with respect to floor prep for RB, is the recommendation still to just clean the floor, make sure it is dry and lay down the RB? Is the general recommendation to stay away from grinding unless you have serious problems to fix?" Absolutely

 

[packpride85]

Justin,

I am pretty sure I have seen an answer to this question before, but I don't remember where.

With RB, is there the same concern about the moisture test that there is with epoxy. We are buying a house with an attached garage of unknown slab quality and am I am trying to decide if I should leave that garage bare or try to coat it with RB.

We will be building a detached garage that I will do right with vapor barrier so as to avoid that issue and will be coating that floor with either RB or epoxy. Don't want to use epoxy in the attached garage simply because I don't know enough about it.

Also, with respect to floor prep for RB, is the recommendation still to just clean the floor, make sure it is dry and lay down the RB? Is the general recommendation to stay away from grinding unless you have serious problems to fix?

In my case because there was already some type of coating on the floor, I had to grind it off. Before if I poured water on the surface it would bead up, now with the coating removed the water penetrates into the concrete.

 

[davidlee]

I just finished 1300 sq ft of RustBullet by myself. I will be happy to share any and all info with you. It is an amazing product but there are some tips that would make it go easier. If you wish send me a PM and I will give you my phone #.
David

 

[alberto]

I just finished 1300 sq ft of RustBullet by myself. I will be happy to share any and all info with you. It is an amazing product but there are some tips that would make it go easier. If you wish send me a PM and I will give you my phone #.
David

It would be great if you could post your experience here, so others can learn.

 

[Dick in Wisconsin]

I have 1000sf to cover. Am I biting off too much to do the entire 1000sf in Rust Bullet at once? Or should I break it down to two 500sf segments?

The guys and gals who have put Rust Bullet down, what has been your experience?

 

[12ozd]

The guys and gals who have put Rust Bullet down, what has been your experience?

It's thin, it's stinks, and it sticks.

I would do the entire floor all at once. Best way to keep a wet edge.
1000 sq. ft. isn't that big.
RB will spread very easily and fast.
Use a chip brush to cut in the edges, and a 18" roller for the field.(I used microfiber). Best quality you can find.
You will need new brushes and rollers for each coat.
Wear disposable rubber gloves, and old clothes.
RB will stick where ever it goes. If it dries on your skin, it will have to wear off. If you get it on your clothes,use a pattern you can live with.
Time your installation according to the weather.(for best results and workability)
Unless you have excellent ventilation, wear a respirator.
A drywall dust mask is not a respirator.
If the area is attached to the house, seal it off.
If you're putting down flakes, get spiked shoes.
Use a plastic grocery bag for each coat. Remove roller w/ bag,toss in brush,tie bag and throw away.
Do not get it anywhere you do not want it. (familiar?)
SCHEDULE - make sure you will be able to complete all coats w/ in specified time. You can not do one coat on Saturday, one on Monday, etc.....
Once you start, you need to be available at it's schedule, not yours.
( you can sand/clean if you time out, but who wants to do that?)
Other than that, if you can paint, you can put down RB.


I can't vouch for it's durability,mines only been down a couple months.
Looks like this.

 

[Dick in Wisconsin]

It's thin

Even though its thin, you were able to put down flakes?

Even though its thin, you think its going to be durable?

How many coats did you put on?

I'm thinking no flakes. Do you think the surface will have enough texture so that it isn't too slippery?

Thanks for the response!

 

[12ozd]

I put down 4 coats of grey.
Broadcast flakes into the last coat.
Rolled on 2 coats of clear.

The flakes definitely add texture, it is not slick when wet.
I would think that it would be slick w/o flakes, but I don't know.

If you don't want the "flake" look, you could always do a full broadcast in a single color. Then you could have whatever color floor you wanted.
(but I think you might still see a little grey in the background)

 

[bullnerd]

Thanks 12oz., Some of the best info so far that Ive seen.

 

[Joeys79]

Thanks 12ozd, great list. I’m getting ready to pull the trigger on 1000 sq ft myself.

****, to check it out I got a ¼ oz can and tried it on a 1 sq ft ceramic tile that had the same finish as concrete. The rust bullet gray finish is great, a little shiny. I’m doing 4 coats because it’s going to be a working garage. I read somebody said they dropped a rotor on the stuff without a chip. From just seeing it on the tile I can believe it. With the tile I was able to check it for “Slippery when wet” – it’s not at all. With sneakers my foot seemed to slip less when it was wet than dry. I read that the clear and color top coats can be slippery.

Stink is an understatement, and a good roller a must. I used a cheap one for the test, and it's lint city. And stick - I'm wearing a spot on my hand for a week now.

I'm convinced, Justin here I come.

 

[packpride85]

I have 3 gallons on order for my 400 sq ft garage. I will post pics/impressions after I get it down. Still got a little more prep work to do so probably won't be for a few weeks.

 

[anthony42hat]

Justin,

Can you clear something up for me? I'm seeing where most of the folks who have used this product grinded their floor but I also read how this product doesn't necessarily require that prep. My floor is in perfect shape but does have a sealer. I really don't want to grind my whole garage floor...would the RB go on properly and last on a sealed floor that is otherwise clean and in great shape? Thanks.

 

[packpride85]

Justin,

Can you clear something up for me? I'm seeing where most of the folks who have used this product grinded their floor but I also read how this product doesn't necessarily require that prep. My floor is in perfect shape but does have a sealer. I really don't want to grind my whole garage floor...would the RB go on properly and last on a sealed floor that is otherwise clean and in great shape? Thanks.

I had the same thing and chose to grind it at Justin's recommendation. If I sprayed water on top before it would pool up and not penetrate. I was told the RB needs to be able to penetrate into the surface to get the best adhesion on a concrete floor.

It really wasn't that difficult with the home depot floor buffer and diamabrush tool. Just takes a while (plan for a full day including cleanup).

 

[benwah]

12ozd is becoming an flooring expert!

 

[12ozd]

Thanks 12oz.

Thanks 12ozd

You're welcome

12ozd is becoming an flooring expert!

I made a list of everything I did....then deleted the mistakes..
The list I posted is much shorter !!

 

[Garage Flooring]

Justin,

Can you clear something up for me? I'm seeing where most of the folks who have used this product grinded their floor but I also read how this product doesn't necessarily require that prep. My floor is in perfect shape but does have a sealer. I really don't want to grind my whole garage floor...would the RB go on properly and last on a sealed floor that is otherwise clean and in great shape? Thanks.

Most of our installs have no grinding. In the cases that you are seeing there was a previous coating, concrete issue or another factor that made grinding necessary.

 

[anthony42hat]

Most of our installs have no grinding. In the cases that you are seeing there was a previous coating, concrete issue or another factor that made grinding necessary.

So just to be clear, it would be ok for me to use the product on a sealed floor?

 

[Garage Flooring]

So just to be clear, it would be ok for me to use the product on a sealed floor?

I'm glad you stated that again. I replied to quickly and I missed that. It goes on over an ordinary densifier such as TL37 just fine, but I would not install it over a sealer without grinding. NICE CATCH

 

[thewaterboy]

Resurrecting a dead thread here.... but I have a question. Everybody keeps saying this stuff stinks. Does the smell go away totally eventually? How long? After a few weeks or months pass since it was put down, and the garage is closed up all day can you still smell it?

 

[Garage Flooring]

Resurrecting a dead thread here.... but I have a question. Everybody keeps saying this stuff stinks. Does the smell go away totally eventually? How long? After a few weeks or months pass since it was put down, and the garage is closed up all day can you still smell it?

100% of the solvents evaporate within 72 hours. After a few hours the smell starts to dissipate. By the next day its 'there' and three days I definitely don't notice it.

There are some factors there as far as ventilation, etc. Once the solvents evaporate they have to have someplace to go

 

[clemon]

I have a two car garage with one car door. I had the door open, two regular doors and three windows in the garage open the whole time. Still stunk up the whole house with the door to the house taped closed. Second day the smell in the house was gone. The garage had a slight smell for about a week. but i definitely recommend rust bullet. DEFINITELY use a respirator.

 

[mike93lx]

My flooris around 45 years old and is very spalled and rough. I would like to smooth it a bit with a concrete resurfacing product before applying RB. Any recommendations on how long to wait after resurfacing? Or is not a good idea?

 

[Garage Flooring]

I have a two car garage with one car door. I had the door open, two regular doors and three windows in the garage open the whole time. Still stunk up the whole house with the door to the house taped closed. Second day the smell in the house was gone. The garage had a slight smell for about a week. but i definitely recommend rust bullet. DEFINITELY use a respirator.

Thank you!

My flooris around 45 years old and is very spalled and rough. I would like to smooth it a bit with a concrete resurfacing product before applying RB. Any recommendations on how long to wait after resurfacing? Or is not a good idea?

We can absolutely help you out with RB and some concrete repair material BUT if it was me and my floor was in that bad of shape... Rust Bullet is a thin film system. So if your a concrete guy and your repairs are going to be to the level where they won't telegraph through, it will work great.

Most of us are not that good. When you have a floor that is in that bad of shape, using a multi step, high build system will do a better job of hiding our imperfections.

If it was me, I would probably grind and patch. Then use TL015 Primer, TL707 100% solids epoxy and Rust Bullet Clear.

We also have a very high end repair kit, that we had held off on listing on the site because honestly, many non GJ customers will go and order stuff without talking to anyone and its not one of those products. We have found a work around so we will be putting it on the site.

 

[rburke65]

12ozd......what is a hip brush and " use a plastic grocery bag for each coat"? Huh?

 

[12ozd]

12ozd......what is a hip brush and " use a plastic grocery bag for each coat"? Huh?

"Chip" brush - basically a cheap disposable paint brush.
I put a plastic grocery bag over the roller cover to remove it, threw in the brush, gloves and tie it and toss it. Just helps to keep from handling the RB.
You will need a new roller cover, brush, gloves, etc. for each coat.

 

[Garage Flooring]

"Chip" brush - basically a cheap disposable paint brush.
I put a plastic grocery bag over the roller cover to remove it, threw in the brush, gloves and tie it and toss it. Just helps to keep from handling the RB.
You will need a new roller cover, brush, gloves, etc. for each coat.

A couple of other things here. Use long sleeve shirts and pants. Don't scratch your nose because if you get this stuff on you it takes a week to come off.

I actually use two pairs of gloves. It helps a ton with keeping hands clean and I will remove one and replace if it gets covered up,

I have a love / hate relationship with chip brushes. But they are the best thing fur cutting in. Just get any loose bristles out first. I try and cut in as much as possible with the roller.

I know I have mentioned this before but either our roller covers or Wooster Pro Doo-Z are working best with current formulation.