Learning to weld: TIG Questions...

[BikerDad]

So, I'm looking at learning to weld. Yes, I know that MIG welding is the easiest to learn, and therefore, logically, TIG is more difficult to learn.

What I would like to know is how difficult is TIG to learn? From my albeit limited reading, it sounds like one has to coordinate both hands and foot. Well, I rack up anywhere from 6k to 25k miles a year riding motorcycles. I can drive a big rig, learned to drive on a stick and continue to do so, and used to play saxophone way back in the day.

 

[dogdog]

Its really not that difficult at all, very similar to O/A torch welding. just harder to get a stack of dime look and clean look... I pick up TIG welding just from doing few small projects and watched a few videos,and basic common sense safety... but nothing beats hands on practices ... having some one to guide you and correct your mistakes is good if you take a class or two.... Nothing around where I am so .... videos youtube and practice., Not sure how hard it is or what it takes if you wanted to be certified or be professional at it.

steel is DC tig and the easiest to learn on....
aluminum you needed AC capable tig machine,
stainless is DC Tig but you'll needed / "should" to back purge with Argon or solar flux....


think that guy Jody from weldingtipsandtricks have a few videos that is really good.

http://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/tig-welding-tips.html



if you want to buy DVDs or you might be able to find it on youtube is this guy Ron Covell

I just bought his dvd before youtube were popular. pretty informative...

TIG Welding Basics
https://www.millerwelds.com/equipment/training-solutions/training-materials/r0037540-no-name

Advanced TIG Welding
https://www.millerwelds.com/equipment/training-solutions/training-materials/r0064238-no-name


think that ron covell video covers other materials like Inconal / titatium etc which somehting I would never get a hands on so... meh......

 

[Regal2800]

being an expert tig welder takes years and years of practice. With that said it is not astrophysics, and you should be able to start laying some decent beads within a couple weeks. I would start with mild steel and work you way up to some of the exotic metals.

As mentioned above, watch "welding tips and tricks" and learn the basics from there. once you understand the concept cut some coupons and start practicing. keep the metal and filler very clean and keep a tight arc.

 

[Superbec]

So, I'm looking at learning to weld. Yes, I know that MIG welding is the easiest to learn, and therefore, logically, TIG is more difficult to learn.

What I would like to know is how difficult is TIG to learn? From my albeit limited reading, it sounds like one has to coordinate both hands and foot. Well, I rack up anywhere from 6k to 25k miles a year riding motorcycles. I can drive a big rig, learned to drive on a stick and continue to do so, and used to play saxophone way back in the day.

wow so you can drive stick, welding must be natural then

I feel so dumb now , took me years to get good at.

 

[bauschracing]

If you have not bought a machine yet, get a good one to start with. Stay away from the Chinese junk on ebay. I bought a Miller Diversion 165 a couple of years ago when I had a few bucks hidden away. I have only played with it a few times but now that I have retired, I plan on practice, practice practice. I bought the Miller because it matches the Miller MIG next to it and that I have had no problems with miller quality. I figured that if needed to be upgraded down the road, I can get most if not all of my money back.

 

[ovrrdrive]

Whenever I pick up a new hobby/skill I just look around at the people I see that are good at it and what types of people they are. I usually decide if they can figure it out so can I. I have yet to see a brain surgeon that knew how to weld. Now rocket scientists however are a different story. lol

 

[383 240z]

I going to catch flack for this, but you can pick up a good TIG machine for about $800 brand new, no it's a blue or red machine, yes it's made in China. However I have one in my shop and I love it. It's an AlphaTig. do your self a favor and check them out, more than a few guys on here own them.

As to is it hard to do/learn. Not really, think of your foot as the throttle, and your hand is just dipping the rod. More pedal=more heat. The trick is watching what your puddle is doing, and keeping a steady hand. Learning when it's ready for rod, when your getting too hot/cold is key. Practice practice practice. I try to burn at least one full rod a day. Even if it's just doing beads on plate.

 

[theoldwizard1]

I going to catch flack for this, but you can pick up a good TIG machine for about $800 brand new, no it's a blue or red machine, yes it's made in China. However I have one in my shop and I love it. It's an AlphaTig. do your self a favor and check them out, more than a few guys on here own them.

Lots of positive reviews on YouTube. One of the biggest knocks was the torch. New model has a better torch.

 

[Blazinzuk]

For a cheaper start learn to oxy/ace weld. Same principle. Different yes but very similar

 

[Tig Master]

Tig is an easy mode to learn.Try and find a friend who does tig and you will learn a bunch. The chance of taking a welding course and learning tig is slim as they usually don't include tig on its own for a beginner. The machine has a big influence on how the learning curve happens. Sitting down at a bench and becoming comfortable is the biggest hurdle to overcome.Get sitting down and make some beads without a filler rod to learn puddle control and blossom from there.The u tube thing is usually informative.The other items to be discovered have many learning curves.You should have an idea what you want to accomplish in this en devour.Just a hobby building a car and many others.I have been at it as a fix it guy for 30+ years and have done countless fixes and repairs that are nice pocket money.I was actually a factory representative for a large company that had nothing to do with welding it was a field rep,but started out wanting to learn tig. Gunsmithing comes to mind.Removing broken studs on equipment and much more.I don't know anyone that wouldn't pay $25.00 to have a broken off stud and easy out removed from an exhaust manifold after they have struggled for a day or two only to be defeated.Just did 2 studs this week on a manifold from a continental engine in a forklift,manifold wasn't to be found anywhere.They took it off delivered it I took it back the next day bingo $50.00.He wanted to know if was enough money!!!!The trick to use is tell them you will give it a try and don't do it while they wait tell them come back a couple of hours later as it will usually only take 10 min's to complete and $25.00 for easy work isn't to hard to take. Put the part in his hand get the coin and all is well.You will soon have many little money makers leaving your shop.Hope this sheds some light on your thoughts of approaching tig.

T

 

[PoorOwner]

I am pretty intimidated about all the number rods and sticks. And you have to get up to sharpen the tungsten? How often do you have to do that?

Plus reading welding forums gives me a headache.. most unfriendly people are always arguing And bashing on just about anything that does cost $4000 etc. can't weld with 110v etc.
Seems every forum about welding is like that, old timers with a highly opinionated attitude. you thought HF vs snap on arguements was bad.

It still don't think I have good enough hand eye coordination to made very good TIG welds if I get one. It may work but won't look pretty. But I have seen some poeple on here MIG weld that I thought it was TIG or stick.

That said what is your thought on multi process like the lincoln 210 MP

 

[kkroger]

TIG is not a huge mystery, Learning puddle control without the arcs and sparks...
As said earlier the most similar method is Oxy Fuel... Learning to TIG with a CHEAP machine will result in a lot of frustration. Don't worry too greatly about the TIG wire numbers and such, ER-70S2 for Mild and 308L for Stainless and 5356 or 4043 for aluminum... Learning to use the current control will come with time.

Sharpen the Tungsten EVERY time you light up, if the ARC starts to wander or gets fizzy stop and dress the tungsten it is probably contaminated... what you REALLY need is a friend with a decent TIG Rig and PRACTICE before you buy a TIG machine... "Cheap" and "TIG" do not belong in the same sentence... I have a Diversion 180 at home and for use if I have to GO somewhere to weld something... Practice Autogenous welding (no filler) You can use and don't be afraid to use MIG Wire for TIG Wire... do not use old coat hangers... the Miller Diversion is a very simplified unit to use. I think it would help you it is also Dual Voltage. I use a much fancier machine for "Work" but the skillset is the same, just more dials or settings to futz with. Tig Time with Wyatt Swaim is a good thing on You Tube as well as Welding Tips and Tricks on You Tube...

Multi Process machines generally fall short somewhere, and in this case DC only TIG... No Aluminum unless you can reverse the polarity and use Helium... Lift Start... unless you want to fork out for the $412 Current Pedal... A Dedicated AC/DC TIG machine will be far easier to learn with.

 

[PoorOwner]

That's the silly thing, almost $500 to add the tig parts on the Lincoln but a alphatig is 700.
I might just get the machine for MIG though . Since it is dual voltage and sell my 120v MIG

 

[JJThrasher]

TIG isn't hard to learn. Its hard to get good at. If you're just doing hobby use and nothing critical it isn't bad. The reason everyone says mig is easy is you can look at a chart for your material, set your machine and pull the trigger and something will happen and if you have half a brain you can make steel stick together.

 

[kkroger]

TIG isn't hard to learn. Its hard to get good at. If you're just doing hobby use and nothing critical it isn't bad. The reason everyone says mig is easy is you can look at a chart for your material, set your machine and pull the trigger and something will happen and if you have half a brain you can make steel stick together.

On the contrary it is EASY to get GOOD at... it is EASY to learn...
the key being LEARN. and PRACTICE, you have to Properly Practice and you will get very good at it. I have a couple friends I have demonstrated it to, who picked it up really fast. having NEVER TIG welded before in their lives..

Proper preparation is the important part. Make sure it is CLEAN, grind it, wipe it with Acetone, Wipe your TIG wire with Acetone, You DO need to SEE what you are doing so a good hood is a must, Cheaters if needed, Read the Puddle...

with Steel or Stainless it is pretty simple but aluminum doesn't look the same as steel, it just gets "Shinier" like a pool of Mercury, not like a glowing puddle of steel... AC TIG is noisy... the Buzzing of the HF and Cleaning Action is distracting at first... but learning to dip the rod or lay wire or step dip step dip... Back Purging, etc... it is easy to be good as soon as you learn what you DON'T know... and LEARN....

 

[brucew]

When I first started trying to TIG I swore it would be easier to rub my belly with my left hand, pat my head with my right hand, stand on my left foot, and circle my right foot ...all at the same time.

It made me really appreciate the talent of a good TIG welder.

I can now do passable welds, but I'm nowhere as good as the pros. It took me a whole bottle of argon before I stopped throwing away my weldments so that nobody else could see them. :-(

You can do it, just plan on lots of practice.

 

[Tig Master]

^^^Yes all above is true. The more you spend the nicer it is I am on my 3rd tig machine and have stepped up each time, I have had a dynasty 200dx for a couple of years now and it is a real pleasure to weld with.They now don't require hi frequency for alum any more The hf is only for no touch starts. The lift arc is sweet. The thing almost tells your horoscope but I have heard that miller is working on that.They do 120ac 240ac and 3 phase all in one machine.Probably more machine than you need.By the way you can learn tig scratch start with a dc transformer machine with an argon regulator and a tig torch and that's all you need for the set up.I had that in the early years.With some practice you can get nice welds on thicker coupons.You won't be doing any .050" material but garage repairs will get you lots of seat time with that old dc tombstone arc burner.Tig is really a well kept secret.A expensive helmet is a real bonus.In the helmet arena you only get what you pay for nothing is free(you only have to buy it once wide angle self dimming is a smart choice) Yes you can weld with a $99.00 helmet but you can also trim your lawn with side cutters."LOL" 3m do well in that game. You will learn the difference between a welder and weldor

T

 

[EdT]

I bought an Eastwood TIG welder about three years ago as a relatively inexpensive way to find out how useful the technology would be to me. I do a lot of light fab work for a customer and I figured it would be a good capability to have in my arsenal, but I was not sure if I could master it or if it would be that useful over MIG and OA which I already had. I picked the Eastwood because of price and I knew their customer service was good. I viewed it as a learner machine, not a lifetime investment. Something that would help me learn the basics and get a better understanding of what some of the features available on more expensive machines would bring to the party. I have used it a lot and I've probably made back over five times what I spent for it. That's not in $ I didn't spend having it done, that's $ in my hand. So it turned out to be a good investment as well as a learning tool. It is adequate for my needs at the moment, but I will certainly upgrade at some point. I think welding is like any other art or craft. Some people have a natural ability and some do not and never will. Most folks can become adequate welders. Some folks can become outstanding welders. No one will get to be any good w/o a lot of practice and a lot of ugly, scaly welds, burn throughs, and other welding tragedies. It's part of learning. Jody's welding tips and tricks has a lot of good tips as do the Miller and other commercial sites, but at some point you just have to dive in and see how it works. The biggest failing I see in the info available on line is that its very focussed on how to do it right and not focussed enough on how to figure out what you did wrong when things turn out poorly. That's when a mentor is helpful or just try changing something and see what happens.

 

[BikerDad]

wow so you can drive stick, welding must be natural then

I feel so dumb now , took me years to get good at.

Years to get good at TIG, and a mere instant to demonstrate that you're a dickweed. You must be a natural at the latter.

I included the info about stick to illustrate that I likely have the basic multi-limb coordination necessary. Given that I've encountered people who are completely unable to drive a stick or ride a motorcycle, I wanted to save folks the trouble of covering the coordination aspect. I didn't realize that some here would be either so full of themselves, and/or so desperately insecure, that they would take offense.

 

[BikerDad]

To the rest who have responded, thank you. If I can jump right into the TIG class at the local tech school, I'll do so, confident that I'll at least muddle through. In the event that I flunk learning TIG out the gate, I'll come back here and let y'all know what the problem was, as well as apologize to Superbec.

 

[tractordude]

A good machine is key.
Once you run a good machine, you can run the junkers pretty EZ.
The miller scratch start machines are a dream to run.

As others mentioned, a GOOD helmet.
I can stick weld with a $10 helmet with a #10 shade, but TIG is a different story. TIG brings you closer to the work. I run my helmet on #12~13 for TIG.

If you take a night class at a tech school, make sure they cover TIG.

 

[PoorOwner]

Bikerdad. What machine are you planning to buy?

 

[Thumper68]

I wanted to get a tig machine last summer and Eastwood was having a sale so I pulled the trigger, it may not be the best machine out there but for the price, warrantee and customer service and knowing that I will be able to get my money back out when I choose to upgrade made it all worth it.

I have not had a ton of time on it yet just to much other stuff going on but I was able to remember the skill quickly, helps that I have done hundreds of hours O/A welding same technique just add the foot control.

I think for a beginner the price point is great for a workable AC/DC tig with foot control and HF start.

On a side note I bought the TIG/Plasma/Cart combo and sold the cart for $75.

 

[chillrich]

What causes the arcs and sparks while TIGing? This has happened to me a lot.
TIG is not a huge mystery, Learning puddle control without the arcs and sparks...

 

[gnpenning]

I have always been curious about TIG as well. The experts here can give you the technical advise. Last fall my LWS had the Miller team in for a promotional day. Like you I raced bikes and have a CDL. TIG is the only type of welder I don't have. In my past I did a fair amount of OA. I let the reps know I wasn't buying anything just looking down the road. They gave me a demo and then it was my turn. Your ability to keep a throttle steady and make fine adjustments helped me with the foot pedal (love an 18 spd). It was knowing when to add or subtract heat with my foot that the man at my shoulder helped. The hood they let me use just reminded me I need a better hood. Even tho they had a good sale I didn't have the coin at the time.

I had a blast and surprised myself. As mentioned I think it's more of an art form just like drawing or painting. A steady hand and good eye I think are very important. Seeing good requires a good helmet. Like with your bikes buy the best you can find.

Until you get a chance to take a class check out your LWS and see if they will let you demo some machines.

The last time I paid someone to weld a couple aluminum water tanks I knew I was in trouble when I picked them up. Yep they leaked the first time I filled them. I might as well done it with my OA. That way when it leaked I didn't pay someone for it. I don't need one often but some day I'll get one.


Have fun let us know what you end up doing.

 

[R.Anderson]

What causes the arcs and sparks while TIGing? This has happened to me a lot.
TIG is not a huge mystery, Learning puddle control without the arcs and sparks...

Lack of shielding gas would cause this. Not enough flow, air being pulled in, or nozzle/cup to far from weld zone with possible too much tungsten stick out.

 

[BikerDad]

Bikerdad. What machine are you planning to buy?

I haven't decided yet, and if I can get the class (they have a full welding program) I'll have the opportunity to get some serious time in. IIRC, MATC uses mostly/all Miller machines. I don't plan on doing this for a living, so if/when I do get a machine, it will likely be a modest AC/DC rig. In order of preference, Miller, Lincoln, Tweco/ESAB. 'Tis unlikely that I'll get a Chinese import.

I will say that I'm a bit surprised at how often I'm hearing how much the quality of the machine impacts learning. I will definitely keep that in mind in the event that I strike out on my own to learn.

 

[white 450]

Lack of shielding gas would cause this. Not enough flow, air being pulled in, or nozzle/cup to far from weld zone with possible too much tungsten stick out.

I am also having a similar problem with a diversion 165 recently on AC with aluminum but in my case it doesn't really want to start an arc and if it does it turns into a black sooty mess. Sometimes I have to actually barely touch the material to get started which makes them stick briefly. Just to cover my basics I have a fresh bottle of pure argon and I got orange tip tungsten (I think?). It will lay pretty decent beads in DC on carbon and stainless so it gives me some confidence that the machine is OK but I've been trying for days and it destroys AL. I also tried weldingweb etc and found similar attitudes towards beginners there. If pics would help I could upload some. I've tirelessly read tutorials etc. so if anyone has an opinion I'm all ears.

 

[manwithtools]

Lack of shielding gas would cause this. Not enough flow, air being pulled in, or nozzle/cup to far from weld zone with possible too much tungsten stick out.

I've also experienced bad or incorrect shielding gas. This was when I was trying to teach myself TIG welding. It made the process very frustrating until I talked to a co-worker and hes suggested the gas might have been contaminated or filled with the wrong type. Took my tank back to the welding supply for exchange and from then on everything was fine.

Probably a rare occurrence, but if the sparking and popping continue you might want to have someone familiar with TIG come by and give it a go to see what their opinion is.

 

[white 450]

I've also experienced bad or incorrect shielding gas. This was when I was trying to teach myself TIG welding. It made the process very frustrating until I talked to a co-worker and hes suggested the gas might have been contaminated or filled with the wrong type. Took my tank back to the welding supply for exchange and from then on everything was fine.

Probably a rare occurrence, but if the sparking and popping continue you might want to have someone familiar with TIG come by and give it a go to see what their opinion is.

Notice you're in Nashville and my machine originally came from Volunteer supply via an exhaust shop that recently closed down. I am considering taking it back there and see if they can perform a check on it. The bottle of pure argon I recently got came from them too.

 

[kkroger]

I am also having a similar problem with a diversion 165 recently on AC with aluminum but in my case it doesn't really want to start an arc and if it does it turns into a black sooty mess. Sometimes I have to actually barely touch the material to get started which makes them stick briefly. Just to cover my basics I have a fresh bottle of pure argon and I got orange tip tungsten (I think?). It will lay pretty decent beads in DC on carbon and stainless so it gives me some confidence that the machine is OK but I've been trying for days and it destroys AL. I also tried weldingweb etc and found similar attitudes towards beginners there. If pics would help I could upload some. I've tirelessly read tutorials etc. so if anyone has an opinion I'm all ears.

Simply your material is still dirty, Brush it SHINY with a stainless steel brush Wipe with Acetone, and use a bit more current, this can also happen if your tungsten gets contaminated, and also if you are not using the right tungsten, I use 2% Lanthanated for everything You could use Pure or Ceriated too...

 

[white 450]

Simply your material is still dirty, Brush it SHINY with a stainless steel brush Wipe with Acetone, and use a bit more current, this can also happen if your tungsten gets contaminated, and also if you are not using the right tungsten, I use 2% Lanthanated for everything You could use Pure or Ceriated too...

Guess I'll have to keep trying because I've been down this road already. Brand new stainless brush, sharpen tungsten on dedicated wheel, acetone, no acetone, etc. 2% lanth is actually what I picked up but couldn't remember color because I have a few. Thank you for trying to help me because I got so frustrated with it last week I just rolled it up and put it away.

 

[WILD-BILL]

2% lanithinated is a brigth blue tip painted on the end. It's my prefered tungsten as well.

Bikerdad, don't count out all the chinese made untis untill you watched Jody's reveiws on the Everlast welders.

 

[kkroger]

What causes the arcs and sparks while TIGing? This has happened to me a lot.
TIG is not a huge mystery, Learning puddle control without the arcs and sparks...

USUALLY you are just too far from your work... "Long Arc" if you start seeing SPARKS move IN... if all your settings are correct and you are using Pure Argon...

Other things as has been mentioned can cause it.
Wrong Shielding Gas, Not Enough Shielding Gas, Too Much Shielding Gas. Generally no more than 20CFH and better 15CFH and work OUT of the wind or even breeze...
Too Much Stickout (should be HALF Cup Diameter) Contaminated Electrode.
Re Grind and try again.
Wrong Electrode (Tungsten) 2% Thoriated used to be the norm for Ferrous and Stainless steels, I use 2% Lanthanated Tungstens for everything. Ceriated will work too, go to your local LWS and get a few different tungstens to try out, my local Praxair gave me a few different ones and a few pieces of wire way back when I started out. Tell them you are a Newbie, and are trying to learn and practice and you may be surprised what they will do. Don't ASK for Freebies! Ask for a recommendation, They are usually happy to help. I also use 3/32 a lot even for little stuff... and a Sharp point. even on Aluminum, I may blunt it a bit but I don't generally Ball it anymore. I have better luck this way. I won't say that you NEED a Tungsten Grinder, I have an inexpensive one that is actually made from a Black and Decker Dremel type tool. the head that is added on it is what is nice, a way to cut off the contaminated tip, then grind the proper angle and longways of the tungsten, blunt it if you need to, all on one tool... that fits in my welding box drawer, and is easy to take along if I need it, you can use a belt sander (as long as it is not contaminated) or a bench grinder and I have sharpened tungstens with an angle grinder on site...

HTP America sells a nice "Upgrade" torch for the 165 and 180 a WP17 with a CK very flexible hose/lead, with the proper adapter to attach to the 165 or 180... ALSO a Pyrex cup and gas lens kit and or a stubby Alumina cup kit. I use Stubby for everything. There are times you might want the regular cup...
I like Wedge Collets better than the standard type, they last longer... and I like Gas Lenses instead of regular collet bodies, but the regular stuff has its place too.
Get a TIG Finger and a TIG finger XL.

Other things that help, GET COMFORTABLE!!!! Find a seat that gets you to a good work height, find a way to PROP your TORCH HAND, find SOMEPLACE for the LEAD to be supported so you are not fighting it all the time! and get used to that tig wire in your left hand, use TIG gloves, they are thinner and allow better feel of the wire, you can use other gloves but I like short cuff "TIG" gloves...
Set your MAX Current just a little bit "High" so when you MASH the pedal you get MORE current, then once you get the puddle going and start moving you can back off a bit and maintain arc, bead width etc...

 

[white 450]

I think I am going to look at gas flow now. After quick internet searching I don't have an actual flow meter but a simple gauge type set up like what's on my MIG. I've got all the other bases covered, or at least what's been mentioned here so hopefully that's my issue.

It has to be something I'm doing because the shop I bought it from purchased it for repairing aluminum wheels and the employee quit shortly after. I bought the entire set up, bottle pedal, etc and had the bottle exchanged to be sure so unless it had problems before it should be working.

I don't have a tig finger but I do have a nice pair of tig gloves so maybe I'll drag it out again and try today. Thanks to all for suggestions

 

[kkroger]

I think I am going to look at gas flow now. After quick internet searching I don't have an actual flow meter but a simple gauge type set up like what's on my MIG. I've got all the other bases covered, or at least what's been mentioned here so hopefully that's my issue.

It has to be something I'm doing because the shop I bought it from purchased it for repairing aluminum wheels and the employee quit shortly after. I bought the entire set up, bottle pedal, etc and had the bottle exchanged to be sure so unless it had problems before it should be working.

I don't have a tig finger but I do have a nice pair of tig gloves so maybe I'll drag it out again and try today. Thanks to all for suggestions

You DO have a flow meter it is graduate in CFH on the low side not PSI... it is "Good Enough" I don't use an actual "Flow Meter" either... Get some GOOD CLEAN aluminum to start with and see if you can run a bead on it not a JOINT a BEAD... Scrub it clean, and set your low side CFH with the gas FLOWING...
I regularly go out in the shop, pull a couple scrap pieces of aluminum scrub it up wipe it down and start in. if you are attempting to weld cast or forged aluminum wheels to start in you are pi$$ing into the wind I am afraid, you need to get to know the welder before you do something like that. LOTS of contaminants on wheels... Like it or not...

 

[white 450]

You DO have a flow meter it is graduate in CFH on the low side not PSI... it is "Good Enough" I don't use an actual "Flow Meter" either... Get some GOOD CLEAN aluminum to start with and see if you can run a bead on it not a JOINT a BEAD... Scrub it clean, and set your low side CFH with the gas FLOWING...
I regularly go out in the shop, pull a couple scrap pieces of aluminum scrub it up wipe it down and start in. if you are attempting to weld cast or forged aluminum wheels to start in you are pi$$ing into the wind I am afraid, you need to get to know the welder before you do something like that. LOTS of contaminants on wheels... Like it or not...

Ok I will try this technique. I am not actually using this for wheels, the shop I got it from purchased it for that purpose. I have been practicing on billet aluminum that our machine shop made for wheel spacers so it is uncoated and I have scrubbed it with a new stainless brush and wiped with acetone. They were never used on vehicles just old stock that was written off. Do you think the billet I'm using is suspect? I assumed that it would be a more pure metal than going to home depot and getting what they have.

 

[kkroger]

Depends on what they are billets OF... the larger the piece of aluminum the more HEAT it is going to take, Aluminum dissipates heat ***** it up like a sponge... if you are using a smaller TIG machine you may have issues with this, perhaps pre-heat your billet with a propane torch...

 

[manwithtools]

Your billet aluminum should be fine. Cleaning with fresh stainless brush and acetone is the right setup. As kkroger suggested, don't worry about welding two pieces together at first, just see if you run a bead on the face of the stock for an inch or two, that will let you see your technique without fighting all the other variables.

 

[ford33]

Going to community college and taking a welding class would be very good. I took a semester of welding and learned the techniques but still need lots of practice. One benefit of the class is to teach you the right way from the start so bad habits are avoided early. You will also learn the science of welding and how welding joins metal. It is important to know that just because two pieces of metal stick together it doesn't make it a good weld joint. Proper safety guidelines will also help you build confidence that you will not harm yourself or someone nearby.

It may be difficult to find an instructor to start you with TIG welding. Most schools want you to take a basic class first and then advance to the individual techniques in detail.

Good luck.