Leather craft tools and advice

[MichaelBikel]

First a few questions:

1) Is there anyone out there who uses a chisel? Would it make the task of setting holes for a watch band any easier/more precise or should I just get an awl/os wheel?
2) Would a non-adjustable grooving tool be a better purchase than adjustable, considering you can use it anywhere on a workpiece?
3)What kind of thread do you prefer? Sinew, polyester, kevlar, artificial sinew? What looks the best or lasts the longest in your opinion?
4)I don't want to buy cheap tools that aren't going to work well, and I certainly don't need anything super-expensive. I have looked at Tandy Leather, eBay, and some other suppliers but I just can't make a choice. Where do you guys get your leather craft tools/supplies?
5) What brand/type of adhesive do you find works the best for you?
I'm open to any advice you guys have for me! My apologies if this topic has already been covered, I did some searching but found no results. Thanks guys

Here is the "finished" project, not great but I learned a few things just by jumping into it. Cant wait for the next project.

IMG_2845 by MichaelBikel, on Flickr

 

[Cruzan80]

What are you trying to make? For regular holes, an awl works fine, chisels really help out with larger holes or end straps.

Tandy is a decent source of tools, not the best/worst. Never seen a non-adjustable grooving tool, as most of the stitching you need to be flush is near the edges. Waxed linen or artifical sinew (the former has much more color options). Different adhesives for different intended usage.

 

[MichaelBikel]

What are you trying to make? For regular holes, an awl works fine, chisels really help out with larger holes or end straps.

Tandy is a decent source of tools, not the best/worst. Never seen a non-adjustable grooving tool, as most of the stitching you need to be flush is near the edges. Waxed linen or artifical sinew (the former has much more color options). Different adhesives for different intended usage.

By non-adjustable I guess I meant "stitching groover", basically it has no edge guide. But now looking at it I assume you take take the guide off of the adjustable and use it anywhere?

Could you use any type of 2 part epoxy? I did this with my belt and it made the area glued quite stiff. I guess my question is, is there anything specific to leather or something that works best?

 

[TMcCay]

I have a little experience with leather work. The best advice I can give you is to head over to Leatherworker.net. Folks are friendly over there and are willing to give some good advice.
Most my tools are Tandys but I have bought some shaders that are a step up from Tandys in Fort Worth. I guess they went out of business since their site is no longer active. There is a definite difference in the outcome of the tools is why the jump in price. You get what you pay for mentality.
I do have the adjustable groover that I bought from Tandy. It works OK.
It has been a while since I bought any adhesive but if a Tandy store is nearby then it is worth the trip. At my store the people are knowledgeable and friendly. Willing to answer any questions.
Hope this helps.

 

[flyingblind]

I find a lot of information at leatherworker.net. Watchbands are very tedious work and I use poly thread (un-waxed)that I bought years ago. I prefer working with horse hide.

 

[jimgood]

Barge glue is what I and my father always used for leather work. It is like rubber cement. Remains flexible. You apply to both sides, let it get tacky then press together.

 

[Allgonquin]

I'm not a big leather hobbyist, but I bought a Harbor Freight leather punch last year and it is worth every penny. Works very well - no complaints from a light user.

 

[MichaelBikel]

Re-opening this thread with more specific questions. Quick background: I'm looking to make a sheath for my silky saw, scabbard for a 22" machete, and down the road a small bushcraft pack. That being said, there seems like a lot to take into consideration, i.e. tools & materials

1) So before I go listing off what I think I need, I would like to hear what you guys think is important to have, vs what you isn't needed.

2) Here is what I have gathered I will need:
-Groover
-Overstitch wheel
-Awl
-Saddlers (stitching) needles
-waxed linen thread or sinew
-V gouge
-Edge Beveler (size unknown)
-Feibing's Pro Oil Dye
-Tanner's bond contact cement
-Tan Kote (for interior protection)
-Vegetable Tanned Leather (thickness/hyde type unknown)

 

[jimgood]

Might want to consider making or buying a stitching horse. A 22" scabbard could get tedious trying to hold it while you stitch. Here's a cool one:

 

[rlitman]

Re-opening this thread with more specific questions. Quick background: I'm looking to make a sheath for my silky saw, scabbard for a 22" machete, and down the road a small bushcraft pack. ...

Have you considered kydex for the first two? I made a kydex belt sheath for my pruners, and the way it snaps is in just the best.

 

[beardog]

-Groover
-Overstitch wheel
-Awl
-Saddlers (stitching) needles
-waxed linen thread or sinew
-V gouge
-Edge Beveler (size unknown)
-Feibing's Pro Oil Dye
-Tanner's bond contact cement
-Tan Kote (for interior protection)
-Vegetable Tanned Leather (thickness/hyde type unknown)

All good info from MichaelBikel

The edge beveler is called a skiver.

A dedicated edge burnisher is nice but in a pinch I use the shank of a round chrome screwdriver.

I would add a multi hole stitch punch as well as a single hole. They kind of look like a fork and punch 5 holes at a time. Also get a two tine and single tine to go around curves.

I reccommend tandy super-sheen finish if you want a glossy water resistant finish. It goes on looking like skim milk and dries clear. You then buff with a soft cloth to shine it. Multi coat for more shine.

I learned a lot from Al Stohlman booklets from Tandy. They are cheap and have lots of patterns for various items. I also learned to make patterns and to carve and stamp from them.

 

[TMcCay]

When it is ready to be sewn one of the tricks that I cannot remember where I picked it up from is to use a Dremel with the flex shaft. If I have a lot of holes then I will groove the leather, use the marking wheel of my choice for the stitches per inch that I want then hold the pieces together with some spring clamps that I have. I then use a drill bit the size of my intended needle and start making holes. Just be sure that you keep the bit perpendicular.

Hope this helps.

 

[MichaelBikel]

Thanks for the info guys. The rotating leather punch was one of the items I actually already had, not sure which project I picked it up for... I ended up picking up a few hand tools and supplies knowing that it was going to be costly but some of the stuff I saw in the store was insane. I met a very talented fellow who showed me some pictures of his work, drum wrappings, drinking horns, restraints and he said sometimes he would spend $3k in one trip.

Anyway I have heard that Al Stohlman's books are the best, but right now I have a leather working book borrowed from the library since its free. I have also been watching a few youtube videos, heres one I plan on watching more closely

And yes, I am sure that at some point I will have to make or purchase a stitching pony rather than using my vice (which I'm not sure how the vice will work out yet)

 

[campbell990]

+1 on leatherworker.net

I also get stuff from springfieldleather.com

 

[1969]

Subscribed.....

 

[nine4gmc]

in for info! I also have a "show your sewing projects thread" you guys are all welcomed to post your projects.

 

[gnpenning]

Fired brass case's. Different calibers for different size holes. If your a non shooter head to the rifle range. Get a couple of each caliber.