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LED Landscape Lighting

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D45

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Mar 21, 2014
Messages
4,834
Location
NW INDIANA
My $485 kit is fantastic

The 300w inverter, 12 light fixtures, 2 fence gate fixtures, and all the wiring with staples

The kit went together very smoothly and performs fantastic!!

The fixtures are all metal, no plastic

The inverter is powder coated black, with a timer and a photocell
 
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OP
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D45

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Mar 21, 2014
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Location
NW INDIANA
You guy feel the need to seal each fixture connection with a spray or a wrap, to help with moisture
 

Showkey

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Aug 9, 2014
Messages
8,638
Location
Wausau WI
Volt Lighting is pretty good and if you read around on the pro landscape forums, pros got pissed about Volt selling to consumers. my neighbor has had volt lights for a while. they look good. the cases look well built. good warranty. that's what i'm putting up in the spring. I'm not paying a pro to do it again after how much the last install cost me -- the fixture quality felt as good as the ones I spent hundreds on for a previous pro install

I've never used them, but it seems like they have pretty reasonable pricing for the quality

The VOLT stuff is first class:thumbup::thumbup:

The VOLT stuff is solid brass or copper.........the Malibu and others are coated aluminum, which is better than plastic but the finish will fail.

This is what cast aluminum will do after years........it might take 2-10 years depending on the climate.

4176EA92-07F5-4C0D-BFC4-2CBB1A90739A.jpg
 

Falcon67

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Jun 11, 2009
Messages
18,371
Location
Merkel, TX
My system is under $100, all sourced from Amazon and HD. Works good, connectors unsealed, in the dirt that gets watered every other day, cheap LED spots - no issues, looks great, work fine long time.

I will say put surge protection on the circuit - at the panel and maybe even on the direct feed to the transformer, etc. We had a near lightning hit - about 150' from the house, don't know what except that it was a huge bang - that fried every stick of it. GFCI outlet, transformer, lights - the whole mess. Killed a couple of outlets in the shop too and one in a bathroom. Nothing else got hurt - no TVs, PCs or other sensitive equipment on a UPS or surge outlet. I now have surge in both panels.
 

mitchtr25068

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Joined
Jan 19, 2010
Messages
156
Location
Woodstock ny
Would love it if this thread started showing pictures of your LED landscape lighting at night, for those of us out there who are considering new projects. Thanks!
 
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D45

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Mar 21, 2014
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4,834
Location
NW INDIANA
I will get some pics up

I love how it turned out, especially for the cost

One thing I have noticed.......bad storms will trip the transformer inverter box and I have had to replace 4 led fixtures after some really powerful lightning storms
 

MeentSS02

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Joined
Aug 12, 2010
Messages
325
Location
Dayton, OH
Another vote for Volt here. I installed 8 of their solid brass uplights about 4 years ago, and they've been going strong ever since. They've also held up very well to the elements appearance-wise. They have some good options for stakes, they are well built, and the bulbs are serviceable. I will never be comfortable buying an integrated, non-serviceable LED fixture until it becomes my only option. Even then, I won't like it. I have yet to see LED anything live up to its claimed service life, so if I can't change the bulbs when they inevitably go out, I don't want it.

When I bought my house, the previous owners had installed some of the cheap cast aluminum Malibu path lights. I really liked how they looked, but they just didn't seem all that durable. I've had two so far that have been broken from being kicked, and replacing them at this point is not an option. Thankfully, the top portions remained in tact. Once I figured out that they used 1/2" pipe threads, I was able to really beef them up. Solid brass stakes from Volt lighting and 1/2" stainless steel pipe ****** (6" in length) painted to match, and now they are damn near indestructible. Install some 194 base LED bulbs, and I now have fixtures that I like that use hardly any electricity.

I've also used the standard Malibu power supply/transformer for many years without issue. The mechanical timer certainly works, but I'd like to have them come on at dusk and go off at a set time, making adjustments for the changing sunset times throughout the year. I might try the Kichler 15DC100 this spring...it looks like it will do everything I want and then some.

For connections, just use grease filled wire nuts. If you want to go overboard, you can seal them up with adhesive lined heat shrink tubing. I will never use another stab connector again after how many I've personally seen fail in my own system. The other connectors people have linked in this thread look nice too, but I think they might be over complicating things.

Landscape lighting isn't rocket science. It might take some time to figure out what looks best for your property, but that's all part of the fun. If you can cut and strip wires and know how to use wire nuts and a shovel, you can do it yourself. $2,500 for 10-12 fixtures is not a deal unless you are the one collecting that check for services rendered.
 

matt151617

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Dec 17, 2011
Messages
488
Location
New Jersey
Just my personal recommendation- do the wiring in conduit. There's no regulation saying it needs to be in conduit, and you could do it super shallow. But I only suggest that because every time I've run basic low-voltage wiring for deck lights and stuff, I've had mice chew it up over the winter. Nothing more frustrating than having to solder and splice and shrink wrap 10 different spots every spring. 1/2" PVC conduit is dirt cheap.
 

rburke65

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Joined
Nov 10, 2007
Messages
12,349
Location
Canfield, Ohio
I concur. Mice are a PITA! 30 years ago I ran 3/4” pvc conduit in the front yard for 120V floods. Glad I did. Now all I have todo for a change over is install some new fixtures.
 

Krang

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Joined
Oct 22, 2018
Messages
185
Location
Hawaii
It may be blasphemy but I went with some cheapo lights that I felt would last forever. Look into marine lighting (like what you would get on a boat). Most are fully potted (epoxy covering all metal or circuitry) and easy to install / inexpensive.

I used these because I didn’t need lots of light and they were going into single gang pvc boxes I had previously installed in a rock wall. I made my own faceplates using TREX to maintain the weather resistance. So far it’s worked like a charm.

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garage guy1of38

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Nov 1, 2016
Messages
138
Location
Ontario, Canada
Would love it if this thread started showing pictures of your LED landscape lighting at night, for those of us out there who are considering new projects. Thanks!

Some iPhone pics. Pro photography will be done early this summer once the fireplace area is complete.

Coastal Source products. I used a mixture of:

-MR16 9 watt uplights.

-MR11 uplights.

-3 watt niche lights (dormer backlighting and lighting between armour stones lining rear driveway and in ground at building driveway apron.

-3 watt China hats

-1.5 watt lights in gate post masonry.

More will be added in the summer once I get the fireplace and the rest of the planting beds done. I'm doing a few lights up high in the tree canopies as well.
 

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MeentSS02

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Joined
Aug 12, 2010
Messages
325
Location
Dayton, OH
Garage guy1of38 and Dentaltec - you guys have some kick *** lighting and really nice properties. Wow. Well done.
 

Falcon67

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Jun 11, 2009
Messages
18,371
Location
Merkel, TX
This is 4 spots and two square post type lights - the posts had 3 LEDs and I modified them by using black RTV to blot out two of the LEDs. They have since been removed at wife's request. The garage lights are LEDs but are on the house wiring, controlled by a wifi switch. The one taken at Christmas shows the two in front of the shop. I have a box of 8 spots to use "somewhere".
 

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Tunajoe

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Jun 10, 2013
Messages
359
Location
Ventura County
One more for Volt.
I've done my entire property with Volt LED lights.
I just purchased some beautiful copper fixtures for a very reasonable price..
The LEDs are Cree and I've only had one failure. They have a lifetime warranty and customer service was excellent.
All wiring run in 1/2 pvc.
12/2 wire and Hampton Bay transformer from HD. Works great!
 
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Shiftless

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Joined
Mar 9, 2014
Messages
14,453
Location
East Bay SFO
Would love it if this thread started showing pictures of your LED landscape lighting at night, for those of us out there who are considering new projects. Thanks!

OK
Here is a night time shot of one naturalized corner of my front yard. That’s a hand made solid copper pyramid shaped hood with a 12 volt one watt led bulb 2700K high up near the inside peak. The support is standard 1/2 inch copper tubing soldered into a threaded adapter and screwed into a cast aluminum box there at ground level.

The reflections off the copper inside give a nice mellow glow.
 

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penright

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Dec 27, 2016
Messages
618
Location
SW of Mustang, OK
I do have a question, but to set the stage first ...
I just started my LV light project. The transformer is hanging inside the garage. So the wire comes through the wall with the sprinkler wires on the left side. Then it comes around the corner and is powering the 4 path and 2 uplights. There are two more flower beds to the left and right of the porch. I have to get a wire under the driveway. Plan A was to jet under to the left flower bed, then under the porch to the right. There will be a plan B. :)
Since this picture, I have jetted under the driveway and do have the left side. The drive is about 18 feet at the grass wide.


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Lessons learned. First, do NOT jet through the sand. It actually creates a vacuum and is hard to push. Once I tried to push through the dirt, it was slow but steady. We have a lot of clay. I did lay the pipe across the drive and mark with a sharpie where I should stop. So for the second try, I moved down into the dirt and about 2 feet from the end, I hit something. Pretty sure it was the porch. So then I moved over and angle toward the garage. Pushed all the way to the mark. No sign of the PVC coming out the other side. Thinking it went down, I down, I dug deeper. So deep, I pretty sure they have a stem wall under the porch. It makes sense to hold up the front of the porch. So now I know I am not going under the porch to feed wire to the right side. Still could not find the PVC. I add another stick to the already 3 and pushed it. So now I am 40 feet for something that should have been 20. The good thing is the dirt keeps the shape of the tunnel so pulling it out and pushing it back in is no big deal. So for my fourth push, I move over toward the second one. I got to the same spot and hit the concrete. When you jab at clay vs concrete, they both are hard, but concrete has a different vibration. In the sand with the vacuum, you can not move it back and forth fast enough to tell the difference. Frustrated, I gave it a sharp jab and it popped through. Kind of hard to tell from the picture, but I was just on the edge and it snapped past the concrete. The PVC is sprung up against the stem wall. In the picture there looks like a gap, but there is none. I had to push it forward enough to pry it away from the concrete to get the saw behind it to cut off the jet nozzle.

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I do have the left side lit up now but no pictures yet. I will have to go under the drive for the right side flower bed. We will see what lessons I really learned. ::)

Here you can see how far from the current lighted flower bed to the PVC start under the drive. I did not start at that angle. Again the picture is a little misleading. I was about 6" down, 5" wide, and 10 feet from the drive, so I could get a level push. After the water started drying, I am guessing from the spoils from the tunnel, which is why it looks that way.
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Now for the question. The peak toward the far left is a little dark at the top. It is a tall peak, guessing 30 to 40 feet. What spec for a spotlight that can be a few feet from the wall that will reach that high?
 

penright

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Dec 27, 2016
Messages
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SW of Mustang, OK
I finished the first phased. Not how good the pictures look but here are the with and without lights on pictures.

This is a distance shot. You can see our house is the only one without any accent lighting.
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Getting the wire under the drive was a big issue. My wife asked me if it was worth it, all I could say is now that is started, I have to finish it. I really thought I had this water jetting figured out. This time it took me 5 tries. I laid out the pipe, was careful about the angle, and thought I had prepped the space really well. The last shot came out more to the left than what I was expecting. There is a lot of clay. I wonder if the pipe would start to make a bend and then just get way off. Don't know if it had anything to do with it working, I tried to keep it as flat when pushing as possible. When I say flat I am not talking level, more keeping the pipe straight. I pictured trying to push a string. Anyone every building a new house or drive put a 3" or 4" sleeve. You are only talking $10 to $11 per 10-foot joint but you never know.

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ludakris04

Well-known member
Joined
May 16, 2011
Messages
3,752
Location
Maryland
I have been trying to plan/ figure out some lighting for my yard.
From what I have read through here, I can mix and match brands, etc without much concern.
That seems to make thing easier. However now I have to figure out the correct lights for the desired effect.

I have to crepe myrtles that I want to uplight. Do I use spotlights or uplights?
I would also like to uplight the front of my house. I like the look of concentrated light. Spotlight? Mini spotlight? uplight?

Are there any good websites that show the differences in lights/patterns?

Thanks!
 

Bent Handle

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 23, 2016
Messages
201
Location
Iowa
I finished the first phased. Not how good the pictures look but here are the with and without lights on pictures.

This is a distance shot. You can see our house is the only one without any accent lighting.
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Getting the wire under the drive was a big issue. My wife asked me if it was worth it, all I could say is now that is started, I have to finish it. I really thought I had this water jetting figured out. This time it took me 5 tries. I laid out the pipe, was careful about the angle, and thought I had prepped the space really well. The last shot came out more to the left than what I was expecting. There is a lot of clay. I wonder if the pipe would start to make a bend and then just get way off. Don't know if it had anything to do with it working, I tried to keep it as flat when pushing as possible. When I say flat I am not talking level, more keeping the pipe straight. I pictured trying to push a string. Anyone every building a new house or drive put a 3" or 4" sleeve. You are only talking $10 to $11 per 10-foot joint but you never know.

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You should really use a 35 degree uplight around the windows, not what appears to be a 60 degree shining in the windows. The goal being accenting the structure minimizing outside light on the windows.
 

Dodge

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 8, 2008
Messages
557
Location
Illinois
Some iPhone pics. Pro photography will be done early this summer once the fireplace area is complete.

Coastal Source products. I used a mixture of:

-MR16 9 watt uplights.

-MR11 uplights.

-3 watt niche lights (dormer backlighting and lighting between armour stones lining rear driveway and in ground at building driveway apron.

-3 watt China hats

-1.5 watt lights in gate post masonry.

More will be added in the summer once I get the fireplace and the rest of the planting beds done. I'm doing a few lights up high in the tree canopies as well.

Very Nice!!!!
 

nadogail

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Jan 23, 2009
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Coronado, CA
"Photocell with timer, just a timer, or just the photocell?" Depends, do you want the lights to glow all night, just the photocell. If you want them to burn up till a certain time, Timer.


My lights turn on with a photo cell, the timer tuns them off for a while and then the photo cell turns them off in the morning.
 

AntonLargiader

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Nov 20, 2016
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Charlottesville, VA
To me, some of the uplighting I see gives the haunted house look and I don't see the big attraction to that. Sort of like portrait photography where uplighting generally adds unflattering effects. Now I know it's hard to photograph this stuff accurately so maybe the results aren't always as they seem in the photos, but I do think you're always fighting that a bit with so much uplighting.

There's so much you can do with light, for good or not. Too close and the inverse square thing is giving hotspots. Too direct and you're just pumping light through your windows. But the right angle on the right surface highlights the texture and details nicely (if they exist to begin with).

To me, pleasant outdoor lighting is more about downlight and pathlight. Steplights in retaining walls, china hats, soffit lights, etc. But that's because I want a pleasant experience (no lights in my eyes) when I'm walking around; it's not about how the house or the landscaping looks from a distance. And I'm a dark-sky kind of guy so shining lights up into bare trees isn't that attractive to me.
 

yeldogt

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18,184
I'm in the less is more camp as well ... just some glowing ... IMO it's not for landing a plane or shooting a movie.

I don't like to see the light source -- unless it's a fixture on the house
 

penright

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You should really use a 35 degree uplight around the windows, not what appears to be a 60 degree shining in the windows. The goal being accenting the structure minimizing outside light on the windows.


I may be thinking of this backward, would 35 degrees be more focused?
Or are you saying I should have split between two lights?

Live and Learn. :) The good news is two of the windows are garage and the other is a bedroom for the grandkids. The little light that leaks around the top of the curtain actually adds a little "night light" effect.

I wished the light would reach to top a little better.
While I was working in the flower beds, I moved the lights out away from the wall and that helped a lot. When (if ever) I get some time, I might try them out a little bit more. I think it added more of a wash to the wall while accenting the gable detail little better.
 

penright

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Over the fall and just recently I have added a couple of trees to the back yard and a fence. Just starting to think of how to light them. I am guessing some sort of well-lights, but I thought I would bounce it off you guys first.

Here are pictures scanning from left to right. The fence runs north and south. Looking at it, we are facing east.

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ACtC-3faaPZx1NcCAxaGsjbT0gHsslKCWhcnX8vQ2tkaZXkdykBajhtHi6uIcywdxzID45-gGH1kBIomyqbS2tlBEY98utEStREg1Jqxct0xYrk31_QzDPEoKrL7KuCRtJ4jS8CBK3GKxWmDqDzA_zQvNyFYcA=w1174-h880-no


ACtC-3fvPfzALiVxUQURYEXKgz5bi3-acpZuD7iZxjG_mWuY-gGVftQg6ZG3C3llqY0TyTrUtnYm9pFam5A297xw92DznVrEbjk5deONr2pTiSH3wCv6lYLRt3wk32c-gQPh2oiEgeJ6A2YoOFcrVGvRXFxUrA=w1174-h880-no


ACtC-3cEPtnqEPt3w7XkLJusXGu7dX27bCL5yZ6ajOjL95chtG6o8uf-YmH1LZjLguhfOkLz5u0dTmhrby23-MvBQ8jCIAW3JWbjhV0cKOQwnJ_q5XHjBS-VnG6zSsM6ojNxHLXJuhuOoiv-IwaUy1WKV5YVkA=w1174-h880-no
 
OP
D

D45

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NW INDIANA
I just had to replace two of the plastic stakes for the light fixtures

Cracked at the threads

Decided to buy metal stakes this time, much more expensive but a good upgrade to make

My lights and set up is still doing good and looking great
 

penright

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Messages
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I just had to replace two of the plastic stakes for the light fixtures

Cracked at the threads

Decided to buy metal stakes this time, much more expensive but a good upgrade to make

My lights and set up is still doing good and looking great
So what does yours look like?

I am trying to figure out how to light up the fence and trees without landscaping to hide the lights. I was wondering if anyone has used well lights? How does mowing work? How to keep grass from growing over them?
 

justsam

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Aug 20, 2010
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Penngrove, California
I just finished reading this entire thread in order to formulate ideas on improving my landscape lighting.

As some have pointed out here, it is not just about wiring and stringing lights together, there is an artistic element here as well. That is where I fall short. Clearly there are things like walkway light for safety which I have and use. I am not happy with my spotlighting on my 100 year old oak trees. Just not the drama I know they can deliver. Is there a site which is perhaps more focused on the artistic side of landscape lighting that someone could recommend?

A few things I did not see mentioned in this thread which I have encountered are bird issues and need for a dumb transformer.

The bird issue is on my path lighting, in spite of them having a conical dome top piece the birds love to land and poop on them. Yes I can add some stainless bird wire, but it is ugly. Chose the design of the lamp wisely if birds are an issue, and no, I do not want a cat!

The transformer issue is regarding any type of home automation in place. I use a more centralized automation controller, and do not want a timer, photo cell etc. If this is your case, make sure you can make your transformer just a dumb step down that can be controlled by a smart switch of your choosing.
 

penright

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The transformer issue is regarding any type of home automation in place. I use a more centralized automation controller, and do not want a timer, photo cell etc. If this is your case, make sure you can make your transformer just a dumb step down that can be controlled by a smart switch of your choosing.
I use HomeAssistant. For me, I just used a smart plug that has been flashed with tasmota.
Then my transformer has an option to be on all the time.
Oh, and my transformer is in the garage and I have a small hole that the sprinklers and low voltage wires go outside. So the environment is not an issue.
What home automation are you using?
 

frankush

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IL
Not a fan of well lights. They tend to always be full of water, either from leaking gaskets or condensation that forms inside the fixture. Good landscape lighting really is about the artistry. Stay with warm color leds. 27K works best as its easier on the eyes. Don't bury your wire until you're happy with the layout and the affect. The fence will be best lit with a wide flood. Pull the fixtures away from the fence to avoid hotspots. If the lamp is replaceable, have a few different wattages available and play with them till you get what you want. Soft and subtle is the way to go.
 

penright

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Not a fan of well lights. They tend to always be full of water, either from leaking gaskets or condensation that forms inside the fixture.
I hear you. That is why I am trying different options. The issue is mowing. I do not want to have some feature running the length of the fence to create a buffer for the above-ground lights.
Not sure if there are any other options.

Don't bury your wire until you're happy with the layout and the affect.
Yep. Learned that lesson. :lol_hitti

The fence extends beyond the shop. Its total length is about 225'. Right now I am planning only lighting the visible part. Creating kind of a frame.

I would have rather had downlighting, but I had the fence installed with built pannels. Also, the poles are on the other side. It would be hard to hide the wire in the fence.
Someone suggested solar lights. Not a fan of those either, but I did use them on my patio because of the same reason (hiding the wire). I wish I could have found warmer light versions, but that was all I could find.

Pictures are a little fuzzy, because of the light.
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ACtC-3evwM_L7MR1bMW4gn24Ys-pORP-lNM0XHZWPG4k6tilmKol3seVtWZ1e9iaHWOqMyH0qQ6UQhTpfJ_x_jtoag06o628Yy0QcoHo2f5wHAPNJgEOrZOob6b0b5ISNHYlHhXwuIm1PbRiUXNe4wqjz_NHjg=w1174-h880-no


In this picture, you can see where I had just taped them. I did not screw the lights into the concrete till after I was sure that is where I wanted them. :)

ACtC-3eUDSWYM6T4F-ojUJ3MOuUXC2lJBa58jQeboPIIvQLwUXsUwBP1XSp4BSNxwjtgo8mhakZlwjPEbxvHNJ7_NoAOX8j1ATPsuJ792tYjp6Y0RdWss_5F4vqdnCp2-oBmlRWaPKh-zhG74zKtOJXsnKNYeg=w1174-h880-no
 

penright

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Have you considered something like these:

https://www.lampsplus.com/products/...k-led-bronze-half-moon-deck-light__1g317.html

Possibly a row on the bottom of the fence facing upward. Don't know if you'd care for the scalloped pattern of light. I'm sure you could find something cheaper along these lines. I actually like this look. Mount the fixtures just high enough to clear the mower.

I was ruling out mounting on the fence because of hiding the wire.
But thinking out loud, if they are low enough there is not much wire, and just high enough to clear the weed eater. Then maybe 3D print some tubes to protect the wire from the weed eater.

These are expensive and way too bright, but something like them maybe?

1740030.jpg
 

frankush

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IL
Could work. Depends on what effect you're looking for. Something like that is not going to highlight a boundary. I wouldn't even want the fixtures close together. It's not general or task lighting, it's meant to accent things you think are highlights. Sometimes less is more.
 

ludakris04

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Maryland

penright

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SW of Mustang, OK
Could work. Depends on what effect you're looking for.
Going back to your other comment. I don't think it going to matter if well or the half-moon deck, your going to get scalloped and that is ok with me. I did not think about it at first, but turning the half-moon upside down might catch water also.



Sometimes less is more.
Without a doubt.


I starting to lean back toward 1 watt well lights.

These are the ones I thinking about trying.
Specifications:
LED Wattage: 1W
Lumen: 100 lumen
Color Temperature: Warm White(3000K)
Voltage: AC/DC 12V-24V
Beam Angle: 90°
Lifetime: 30,000hours
CRI: >80
Working temperature: -37°C-55°C
Working humidity: ≤95%

Landscape Lights Sunriver 6Pack LED Well Lights 1W 12V-24V Ground Lights IP67 Waterproof Low Voltage Landscape Lighting Spotlight for Driveway, Deck, Step, Garden Lights Outdoor (Warm White)
 
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