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LED Lighting for 40' x 40' Shop - 13' Ceilings

Weirth It

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Close to getting my final inspection on 40' x 40' shop with 13' ceilings which will be followed by adding electrical circuits including one for LED lights. Shop will eventually be sheetrocked when my pocket book recovers. For now it will be open framing. I looked at the pinned threads in this forum although it seems to dated 2015 and LED's have come a long way since then. Anyway, I used the chat feature on Prolighting and Super Bright LEDs.

Prolighting suggested this UFO:

Super Bright LED suggested this linear stating the UFO's were meant for higher ceilings:

My neighbor used the Costco 4', 2-tube LEDs that are daisy chained together which works pretty well other than the cords along the ceiling.

Anyone have an opinion on the above or other options. Also looking for possible number of lights needed and layout.

Thanks for any advise!
 
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78SC4X4

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I am very happy with linear highbays. The light seems to be even and shadowing is minimized. I have 12 for a 30 x 40 space, so you would be at 16 for a 40x40. I used RAB 145 Watt Linear LED High Bay - 5000K - 19,939 Lumens - 120-277V for 16' height and have them dimmed about 50%. So, You would probably need less wattage.

IMG_1590.JPEGIMG_1625.JPEG
 

sparky 1971

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How far out is the drywall ceiling? Whatever you put up has to come back down. This might be the place for the plug in, plug together disposable lights for the time being. Or find the money to at least get the ceiling up. I am a big fan of the linear strip lights. If it were my shop it would get three rows of four 8' four lamp strips with 50k frosted lamps. One row right down the middle and the other two about 8'-10' off the sidewalls. You need one box for each row, the lights couple together so you can pull the rest of the wire right through them. It would be a pita putting them just so can take them down for sheetrock so you can put them up again though.
 

FMB4

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Typically you'll need to pass a final 'rough-in' electrical inspection after you've added any and all electrical wiring, junction boxes, and outlets. Such inspections must be completed and 'signed off on' before you cover such with sheet rock, insulation, etc.
 

sparky 1971

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Typically you'll need to pass a final 'rough-in' electrical inspection after you've added any and all electrical wiring, junction boxes, and outlets. Such inspections must be completed and 'signed off on' before you cover such with sheet rock, insulation, etc.
There are partial inspections. I have four different jobs in various states of completion. All have the power on and lights up. Three are waiting for more money and the other building has too much **** piled in it to work.
 

dcg9381

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I have a 40x60. 5 UFO style lights @ 16' and some "mood" LED based string lights.
The UFO lights are on a switch labelled "daylight++" - if you use these, and I recommend them, do a dimmer system.
I've had them up for 3 years. No failures.. One has started to get a bit "pulse-ly" - but replacing it as it's on an outlet, is no problem.
 
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Weirth It

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Typically you'll need to pass a final 'rough-in' electrical inspection after you've added any and all electrical wiring, junction boxes, and outlets. Such inspections must be completed and 'signed off on' before you cover such with sheet rock, insulation, etc.
So I've been doing everything by the book as far as permitting goes. Pulled an electrical permit and passed electrical inspection with the bare minimum (1-tamper resistant GFCI receptacle, outdoor lights on switches at each man door, and a service light at the panel) for an unfinished structure. Kitsap County requires a passed electrical inspection prior to the framing inspection. Once I pass the counties final inspection I will pull another electrical permit for additional circuits.

Must say the WA State L&I electrical inspectors were very helpful. They understood that I am trying to get the county signed off and provided the bare minimum mentioned above.
 
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Weirth It

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How far out is the drywall ceiling? Whatever you put up has to come back down. This might be the place for the plug in, plug together disposable lights for the time being. Or find the money to at least get the ceiling up. I am a big fan of the linear strip lights. If it were my shop it would get three rows of four 8' four lamp strips with 50k frosted lamps. One row right down the middle and the other two about 8'-10' off the sidewalls. You need one box for each row, the lights couple together so you can pull the rest of the wire right through them. It would be a pita putting them just so can take them down for sheetrock so you can put them up again though.
Seems like most of the linear LED lights are 4-foot. What do you mean by "the lights couple together so you can pull the rest of the wire right through them"?
 
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Weirth It

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All of the RAB linear lights I see on Prolighting are around 300 watts, 40,000 Lumen, and $500 (gulp).

Are the lights in your shop 4-foot, 2-lamp?

I am very happy with linear highbays. The light seems to be even and shadowing is minimized. I have 12 for a 30 x 40 space, so you would be at 16 for a 40x40. I used RAB 145 Watt Linear LED High Bay - 5000K - 19,939 Lumens - 120-277V for 16' height and have them dimmed about 50%. So, You would probably need less wattage.

IMG_1590.JPEGIMG_1625.JPEG
Disregard previous post. I did find these in the commercial section of Prolighting that are similar to the specs on your light. Do your fixtures have 8=lamps?
 

sparky 1971

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Seems like most of the linear LED lights are 4-foot. What do you mean by "the lights couple together so you can pull the rest of the wire right through them"?
There are 8' fixtures. I get them all the time from a supplier here in IA, but they don't list any of the strip lights on their website for me to post a link. There may be some posted in the greatest light fixture ever thread, but I'm not going to go through it to see. They are nothing more than the old fashioned 8' florescents that take four 4' lamps but with no ballast. Two 4' fixtures would do the same thing. As far as couple together. The end cap of a fixture comes off and slides into a slot on the inside top. It goes in half the length of the cap, then the second fixture slides onto the other half, thus aligning and coupling the two together.

It makes for a really, really fast installation. Each row gets wires fed from one box towards the end. On a drywall or plywood ceiling I snap a line down the center and start slamming them up. Since the lights are coupled together, it's basically one long channel, pull the wires right through them to the end and connect everything.
 
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NickH

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I have 9 UFO High Bay lights (Hyperlite) in my 30x50. The shop section is more like 30x36. I have a black ceiling and still have unfinished walls and this setup is crazy bright. The end rows are about 13' high and the center row is more like 17'. The center row is off in this picture, still plenty of light!
IMG_8169.jpeg

Since you are going to finish your ceiling eventually, the UFO's would be great since they attach with a single hook and are easy to move.

IMG_6844.JPEG
 
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Weirth It

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Thank you for sharing your lighting experience. I ended up going with 9 of these fixture in a 13-foot x 13-foot grid which will be 70-foot candles at 13-feet high:

PROLIGHTING® 105 Watt Linear LED High Bay - 5000K - 14,175 Lumens - 120-277V​

Also added a dimmer/motion sensor switch and got the GJ discount!

The T8 fixtures were going to cost more to ship and Prolighting tech recommended the linear LED model. They should be arriving on Monday.

Anyone have pictures or words to describe how this type of fixture should be wired in and hung. Need to know what type of box to run wires through or is a box even needed.

Hey SuperCab, did you use unistrut to hang your lights? Do these linear LEDs come with provisions to hang with unistrut?
 

cybrdyke

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It should come with the v-shaped hangers and some chain or aircraft cable. The rest is up to you.
If you are going to plug them in, then you'll need the plug for the end of the cord and a receptacle & box up in the ceiling. If you're going to hardwire them, then you'll only need a junction box in the ceiling for a place to make the connection. If you intend to dim them, the dimming wires are purple & gray and they are low voltage. You should run them separately from the power wires (there's a few ways around this) to your dimmer switch. The lighting circuit, if you use plugs and receptacles should be GFCI protected.
Good luck
CD
 

78SC4X4

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Hey SuperCab, did you use unistrut to hang your lights? Do these linear LEDs come with provisions to hang with unistrut?


I did hang my lights from unistrut. I realized a while ago that you're my neighbor. If you would like to stop by and take a look and talk let me know. I'll be around this weekend. I can also show you how the dimmer circuits work.

I used these https://www.prolighting.com/jbarbay2.html

and these https://www.gordonelectricsupply.co...d-Nut/6276400?text=UNISTRUT+P2540-EG&lsi=true
 
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Weirth It

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I did hang my lights from unistrut. I realized a while ago that you're my neighbor. If you would like to stop by and take a look and talk let me know. I'll be around this weekend. I can also show you how the dimmer circuits work.

I used these https://www.prolighting.com/jbarbay2.html

and these https://www.gordonelectricsupply.co...d-Nut/6276400?text=UNISTRUT+P2540-EG&lsi=true
Paying a visit would be great. I have help coming today to pull wire (except for the lighting feeds) as we installed boxes and drilled yesterday afternoon. I will try and message my phone number to you.D7F617D1-364F-4662-A0B8-17CF90F584F4.jpeg
 

craigibc

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HELP! so to get some info from the same thread... 20'x30' shop and I have the 4000k 2x4 lights.... side wall is 14' and scissor truss to 17' at the peak. How many lights should I add to the shop?
 

78SC4X4

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HELP! so to get some info from the same thread... 20'x30' shop and I have the 4000k 2x4 lights.... side wall is 14' and scissor truss to 17' at the peak. How many lights should I add to the shop?
You want them on roughly a 10' grid. 5' to the wall 10' between fixtures. Or in your case 6 lights.
 
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Weirth It

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Did you get your lights installed?
I have not gotten the lights installed. I did put a male plug on one of the light's pigtails, hung the light (at 13-foot over one of the prescribed locations) using the the triangle brackets that came with the lights, and ran an extension cord to a receptacle that is energized. I couldn't believe how much light the one fixture put out.
I am still wiring the rest of the walls and will move to the overhead once that is complete. Yesterday I received the pendant mounts for the lights as suggested by SuperCab. The pendant mounts will provide a rigid mount to unistrut so the lights can be positioned nicely between the truss. Still waiting on the dimmer/motion sensor switch as well.
 
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Weirth It

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I finished the temporary instal (temporary because the lights will have to come back down for sheetrock) of nine linear LED lights mid-December and wanted to wrap up this thread. I could only fit seven of nine in the picture.

Used the V-hangers that came with the lights and a screw into the side of the truss to suspend from. I have pendant hangers that fasten to the lights. They will bolt to a bracket that spans two trusses and will be used for a more rigid mount during final installation.

Ended up powering each light through a receptacle. This will make it easy to take the lights down for sheetrock. Also, the pig tail wire that came with the lights was a pain to work with. Three small stranded wires had an outer sheathing that was nearly impossible to strip off. Small stranded wire and two 12 gage solid wires do not hold well in a wire nut either. I tinned the ends of the small stranded wire and slapped a male plug on the end. Worked great.

I would recommend these linear high bay LED lights. It's hard to believe the amount of light they put out. Actually putting a dimmer switch in this weekend. Thank you for all of the suggestions. I will try and get some build pictures posted soon.Shop Lights.jpg
 

Shovelhead

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Thanks for the update.
Thats a fine looking place you have.
Whats your intentions for the receptacles mounted up high on the one wall?
 
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Weirth It

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Thanks for the update.
Thats a fine looking place you have.
Whats your intentions for the receptacles mounted up high on the one wall?
The high wall receptacles can be used for task lighting of signs that light up. I went back and put all of the receptacles on individual switches. If I had to do again I would use large gang boxes and installed multiple switches at one location. I've had several lessons learned.
 
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Weirth It

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I have one 36 x 40 shop and put six dimmable UFO lights. They're 13'-14' tall and provide just the appropriate amount of light. You can never have enough brightness, like others have stated. Guess it depends on what you're working on, you'll have some shadows. I used vintage fixtures with LED bulbs as well as adding new LEDs. Keep in mind that LEDs are polarity sensitive. In addition, we intend to place some LED signage that will help to project our shop and business.
Sounds like a well lit space.
You mentioned that LEDs are polarity sensitive. Are they polarity sensitive on the low voltage dimmer side? What precautions do you take to make sure the polarity is correct?
 
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