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Platonic Solid

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I can't answer your question, just don't buy the one you linked to. Now don't everyone jump all over me for saying this: I think they're using some very creative wording in their brochure as they actually have no NRTL certification at all. It should say UL1598 & UL8750 Listed, not Designed to (which means nothing) UL1449 (the UL standard for "Surge Protective Devices").
 
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pete379

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I can't answer your question, just don't buy the one you linked to. Now don't everyone jump all over me for saying this: I think they're using some very creative wording in their brochure as they actually have no NRTL certification at all. It should say UL1598 & UL8750 Listed, not Designed to (which means nothing) UL1449 (the UL standard for "Surge Protective Devices").

thoughts on this one ? http://www.zoro.com/i/G7494234/?utm...hopping_Feed&gclid=CNfVlu-qocMCFYyTfgodqbQAsA

pete
 

Platonic Solid

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Hubbell is a well respected brand, so you can hardly go wrong there. Not sure if 3437 Lumens is enough though. Depends on exact placement and desired goal.
 

Speedy Petey

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I've installed several Simkar versions of that light to great reviews. Same goes for their LED wall packs. RAB also has similar units.
I am totally sold on LED outdoor lights.
 

Electric_Light

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That's the style you don't want. The picture is a dead give away. It tends to hide the perps by blinding observant in a pool of light like a dark alley viewed from a well lit street. You can clearly see that someone approaching from the side and hiding in the side would be invisible from the street.

You'd want to light it up so that perps are extremely visible from the street and eliminate completely dark areas nearby. If the driveway is way over lit, someone hiding in the bushes are less visible. The key to deterrance is creating a perception of visibility from the street.
 

squarles67

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Orange, Texas
I used a regular motion light and put LED floods in it, works good

sorry, replied too quick. I thought you were talking motion lights
 

Electric_Light

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Jan 3, 2015
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I can't answer your question, just don't buy the one you linked to. Now don't everyone jump all over me for saying this: I think they're using some very creative wording in their brochure as they actually have no NRTL certification at all. It should say UL1598 & UL8750 Listed, not Designed to (which means nothing) UL1449 (the UL standard for "Surge Protective Devices").

You know it's a sales company when you see something like 500,000 hour life projection. Kinda like observing a balloon ascending into the sky and predicting when it will be in the outer space *if* it was to continue rising at the same rate.
 
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cybrdyke

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Pete, there are several legitimate companies that make this style of fixture. You should be able to get one for around (or less than) $125.00. Look at a local electrical supply house for Simkar, Stonco, RAB, Hubbell, etc. They will have them in stock and will be there for you if you need support after sale.
Good luck.
CD
 
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pete379

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Pete, there are several legitimate companies that make this style of fixture. You should be able to get one for around (or less than) $125.00. Look at a local electrical supply house for Simkar, Stonco, RAB, Hubbell, etc. They will have them in stock and will be there for you if you need support after sale.
Good luck.
CD

don't have any "local" elec. supply- would like to find a fixture that is equal or better than a 175 merc. vapor light appreciate the input.

pete
 

cybrdyke

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nope. The fact that they use IES as a certification is bogus. IES doesn't endorse any products or do certification.

Here's what I'm struggling with, Pete....
You're asking for a equivalent to a 175 Mercury Vapor, which, when new, delivers 7800-ish lumens. Now, those lumens aren't all delivered to the ground and plus, over time, that lamp gets dimmer and dimmer. The fixture makers all know this, and so when they try to create an equivalent, they shoot for a number of lumens around 3000-ish. Right or wrong, that's where this style of fixture lives. I hope that you aren't expecting a fixture like this to deliver those 7800 lumens cuz I dont think it's out there. Not in this style, anyway. If it is, I'm sure someone will post it here soon.
I'm not a fan of all these no-name internet brands. They wont tell you anything about their components, and they wont be around in another year to back up their failures. That's why I suggest brand names like RAB, Hubbell, Stonco, Cooper, etc etc etc....
Good luck,
CD
 

BFBOB

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A good alternative to MV is Metal Halide. It'll deliver all the light you can stand with much better efficiency than incandescent or MV at a much lower initial cost than LED's (for now - that's sure to change).
The first question, as noted above, is how much light you need. Find the lumens output you need (rule of thumb, the ordinary 100W incandescent puts out 1700 lumens) and what kind of fixture will direct the light where you need it. Full cutoff fixtures are best outdoors- they don't direct any light upward. Do you really need to waste light=$ illuminating the undersides of airplanes?
Then juggle initial cost vs efficiency vs light color. Take a look at the attached chart. Surprising how close MV's are to incandescents. For me, Metal Halides in the more efficient models are the best balance where I need a lot of light and turn-on time isn't an issue. I'm very wary of any manufacturer/seller that doesn't rate the lamp in lumens and watts. Claiming "Real bright and low energy" is meaningless.
 

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Speedy Petey

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Can you even get mercury vapor any more? I don't know anyone who has used or installed MV in years. Even the cheap area lights like in this thread I see are mostly MH.
 
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pete379

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Can you even get mercury vapor any more? I don't know anyone who has used or installed MV in years. Even the cheap area lights like in this thread I see are mostly MH.
I think 2009 was the end of MV ballast production. At any rate,I want to change over to LED outside my shop/above door then the shop will be 100% LED.

pete
 

Speedy Petey

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I think 2009 was the end of MV ballast production. At any rate,I want to change over to LED outside my shop/above door then the shop will be 100% LED.

pete
I know, which is why I thought the statement "A good alternative to MV is Metal Halide" is kind of a moot point.

These yard lights are basically available in HPS (yuk!!), MH (an OK choice) and LED (best choice IMO).
 
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