Slowbuilder
Well-known member
I'm adding an enclosed room into my red iron building. It will be approximately 12'wx12'dx8'h, and sit in the corner of the building. I'll build 2x4 stud walls around the sides that aren't against the existing walls. It will be built out of sawn, dimensioned lumber, and I plan on putting a deck on top of it for medium storage. I don't collect engine blocks or lead pipe.
Based on the joist span tables I have found, I think that 2x8 joists on 16" centers will be sufficient for the dead and live load that I expect. One end of the joists will rest on the 2x4 stud wall.
My question is what to do with end of the joists that **** up against the existing walls of the building? As I see it, I have a couple of options:
1) Build a stud wall that is right against the existing wall, with the joists on the top plate (double). The stud wall would support the live and dead load of the deck on top of the room.
2) Build up a "ledger beam" of sawn, dimensioned lumber, and attach it to the support columns of the steel building with either stove bolts or machine screws. Based on beam span tables, I think this would need to be constructed of 3 2x12's nailed together. Then I would attach the joists to this beam using standard joist hangers.
3) Weld a 12' long 3x3 or 4x4 iron angle to the support columns, and rest the joist ends on this. I haven't sized this' I'm just guessing on the 3x3 or 4x4 size. Some solution would be needed to prevent the joists from racking (X-braces?). Guidance on how to size this would be appreciated.
4) Other thoughts?
#1 is probably the cheapest, but only beats out #2 by about $25, based on online prices for sawn lumber.
#2 gives me a few more square feet in the enclosed room (about 4), but saves me from finishing off the inside of this stud wall. Finishing the inside will easily eat up the cost advantage of #1
#3 would have the space advantage of #2, but would require that I get a stick welder powered in the shop, and get someone with better welding skills than mine to do the structural welding.
So what's the consensus? Door #1? Door #2? Door #3? Something else? Have my head examined? Tear down the entire structure and start over?
Any insight you have would be welcome!!
Based on the joist span tables I have found, I think that 2x8 joists on 16" centers will be sufficient for the dead and live load that I expect. One end of the joists will rest on the 2x4 stud wall.
My question is what to do with end of the joists that **** up against the existing walls of the building? As I see it, I have a couple of options:
1) Build a stud wall that is right against the existing wall, with the joists on the top plate (double). The stud wall would support the live and dead load of the deck on top of the room.
2) Build up a "ledger beam" of sawn, dimensioned lumber, and attach it to the support columns of the steel building with either stove bolts or machine screws. Based on beam span tables, I think this would need to be constructed of 3 2x12's nailed together. Then I would attach the joists to this beam using standard joist hangers.
3) Weld a 12' long 3x3 or 4x4 iron angle to the support columns, and rest the joist ends on this. I haven't sized this' I'm just guessing on the 3x3 or 4x4 size. Some solution would be needed to prevent the joists from racking (X-braces?). Guidance on how to size this would be appreciated.
4) Other thoughts?
#1 is probably the cheapest, but only beats out #2 by about $25, based on online prices for sawn lumber.
#2 gives me a few more square feet in the enclosed room (about 4), but saves me from finishing off the inside of this stud wall. Finishing the inside will easily eat up the cost advantage of #1
#3 would have the space advantage of #2, but would require that I get a stick welder powered in the shop, and get someone with better welding skills than mine to do the structural welding.
So what's the consensus? Door #1? Door #2? Door #3? Something else? Have my head examined? Tear down the entire structure and start over?
Any insight you have would be welcome!!
