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Legacy Industrial Acid Stain

ct71rr

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Joined
May 19, 2009
Messages
478
Location
Massachusetts
I acid stained my floor using all Legacy Industrial products. Hard trowel solution, Shifting Sands and Cola stain, HD6600M WB Acrylic Sealer. I would like to thank Legacy Industrial for answering all of my PM's about this process. Here is the final look:



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The pics don't do it justice. I think it came out really cool! :beer:
 
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ct71rr

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Joined
May 19, 2009
Messages
478
Location
Massachusetts
Thanks, it's hard to take a good picture of it. The floor looks wild in person. I'm very pleased with it!
 

LegacyIndustrial

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deerfield, IL
ZTimbo:
The stain is roughly : $ .25 per sq ft.
The sealer that was used is approx. $ .22 per sq ft.
Add in a sprayer and rollers....

You are likely around $ .75 per square or less.
 
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ct71rr

Well-known member
Joined
May 19, 2009
Messages
478
Location
Massachusetts
Yeah, that's about what it cost me.

The process I followed was:
- I degreased with Simple Green, a powerwasher and stiff nylon brush. I then applied the Hard Trowel Solution and let it sit for 15 mins before washing off with a powerwasher. I then allowed the floor to dry for about two days. I the applied "Shifting Sands" stain. I sprayed a thin coat in sections, brushing it in with a push broom. I then sprayed another coat to cover the brush marks. On this coat, I applied the stain heavier is random areas. I then allowed the stain to dry for about and hour. I then applied "Cola" stain (mixed 1:1 with water) in a few random spots (while wearing spiked shoes). I then applied a mist coat of the "Shifting Sands" around the edges of the "Cola" stain to "float" the colors in. I then allowed the stain to dry for about five hours. I then neutralized the stain with a baking soda and water solution (about 2TBS to 1 gal water). I then powerwashed and scrubbed (nylon brush) the floor about five times to remove all of the residue. I then allowed the floor to dry for about two days. I then applied two coats of the Matte water based sealer. The first coat was applied (with 12" roller) east to west and allowed to dry for about five hours. I then applied the second coat north to south.

It sounds like a lot of work, and it was but, I would do it again. The only change I would make is maybe using a true epoxy sealer. Time will tell how the water based sealer holds up. I do have two gallons left over and may reseal the floor next summer or so for extra protection.
 

Smbarron

Active member
Joined
Sep 3, 2012
Messages
44
Location
Northeast Louisiana
I would like to do something like this.
My garage was built in the 80's and has carpet glued to it. Once I remove the carpet and grind glue off, what would be the next step?

I plan on working on cars in the space and being British, they are usually dripping something.

Any advise welcome.
 

bmallak

Active member
Joined
Oct 13, 2010
Messages
36
Location
Central MN
Floor looks great! How well will the finish hold up to normal wear and tear of a working garage. aka oil spills, parts/brake cleaner, jacks, jack stands, welding/grinding etc.
 

LegacyIndustrial

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deerfield, IL
I would like to do something like this.
My garage was built in the 80's and has carpet glued to it. Once I remove the carpet and grind glue off, what would be the next step?

I plan on working on cars in the space and being British, they are usually dripping something.

Any advise welcome.

In your case, the concrete may not take the acid stain as well. However, you could dye it. The pallet of colors is wider and the application is not too terrible.
Sealer could be the same.


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LegacyIndustrial

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deerfield, IL
Floor looks great! How well will the finish hold up to normal wear and tear of a working garage. aka oil spills, parts/brake cleaner, jacks, jack stands, welding/grinding etc.

This sealer performs better than like products. However, proper maintenance is required and heavy solvents like brake cleaner would be a deal breaker.


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bmallak

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Oct 13, 2010
Messages
36
Location
Central MN
I have a working garage so what would you recommend. Its a new floor about 2 years old. No stains etc yet. smooth finish. I mainly want to avoid stains but any improvement of appearance is great also. thanks
 

LegacyIndustrial

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deerfield, IL
Use this by itself over the bare concrete?? what Kind of prep is needed to a new smooth floor?? How long does it last ??

Thanks

Smooth concrete may need to be etched or lightly ground.
It's length of service is directly linked to traffic and maintenance.

An epoxy system is more durable.
 

Notgrownup

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May 5, 2014
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Location
Snow Hill NC
I used the Acid etched in English red and it turned out good I think...
 

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Notgrownup

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here is how it was before clear and while rolling it...The clear made it pop right out.
 

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LegacyIndustrial

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deerfield, IL
Buffered acid. You can run a sanding screen over the floor if you don't want to use this.
Hard trowel floors take more color when you can open them up a bit before staining.
 

carhunter

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Joined
Nov 8, 2010
Messages
793
Location
southern Ohio
HD6600MMA has the added benefit of being quite immune to the degrading effects of salts and de-icers. The molecular lock is a bit tighter than the HD6525MMA and is my vote for best acrylic.

Is it more resistant to other chemicals or oils - for example brake-kleen or hydraulic fluid?

In an older post you described 6525 is a "step-up" from 6600, so I'm not sure how to differentiate between the two.
 
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