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Legacy Industrial HellFire Install and Long-Term Review

wreckdiver1321

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Aug 12, 2021
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Billings, MT
Good afternoon all,

This will be an install, initial impressions, and long-term review thread detailing my experience with Legacy's HellFire floor coating. I thought it was a good idea to get it documented here too so everyone could see, as well as add a little bit to the knowledge base on this product since internet details are somewhat sparse.

@LegacyIndustrial, thank you for such a great product! I'm very pleased with the end result and the help you have provided along the way.

For those that don't know, I have had a hell of a time with my workshop floor. I tried to stain it, and when that failed I ground the floor, then tried various methods of oil/stain removal, then tried staining again with poor results, then tried more cleaning and grinding, then tried a final stain, which did not work. I sold the polyurea kit I got to finish off the floor, and bought @LegacyIndustrial's HellFire as my plan B. HellFire is an extremely tough opaque coating, so I should be able to cover the nastiness that my floor has become while providing even better protection than my Plan A. Unfortunately, winter arrived and brought cold, dry air. So I gave up for the winter months and focused on working on other projects.

Recently, the weather turned in my favor, so I decided it was time to get the floor sorted once and for all. I moved my Land Cruiser project to the garage, pulled out all of my tools and and equipment, then cleaned and etched the floor. I allowed two days for the floor to dry and was ready to go.

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Per Legacy's instructions, I needed to maintain 60-90% humidity in the workshop for the floor to properly cure. To further complicate things, I wanted to ensure I got the coating underneath the overhead door, so I needed to seal the shop's environment while the door was open. To that end, I took the tarp I had underneath the Land Cruiser outside and nailed it around the doorframe.

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Using rocks to hold the tarp down, I flattened the tarp against the doorframe and needed to seal it against the siding. To that end, I tested a few tapes to use in order to seal the tarp against the door opening. Aluminum HVAC foil tape held the best, so I taped the perimeter of the tarp up and called it good. My 4 year old helped me by handing me the strips of tape, the hammer, etc. He had a blast helping daddy work.

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I wanted to limit the loss of heat/humidity as much as possible, so I opened the door about eight inches and put a block underneath it to hold the door open before starting to humidify the space. I used the biggest, baddest humidifier I could get at Target, as well as the one we happened to have at home already. It's a big area that's now not perfectly sealed, and Montana is a dry state, so I wanted to make sure the space maintained the proper level of humidity. It worked really well actually.

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I let that sit overnight, and by Tuesday morning, I was in business.

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I gathered all the necessary (and some not so necessary) supplies. If you plan on doing this coating, you need to take every precaution to keep your skin covered up. Long sleeves, pants, and gloves. If you get this on you, it's with you for at least 10 days. You cannot simply scrub it off. The tenacity of this stuff is incredible. Also, I had read about the strength of the smell, but this was something else. A respirator isn't just a good idea, it's a necessity. This stuff is seriously hazardous. It stung my eyes after the first coat.

Beyond the PPE, you need everything you'd normally need for painting a room. I couldn't get my hands on an 18" roller locally, so I just stuck with what I had, knowing I would throw almost all of it away after the fact.

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HellFire isn't like paint, it's a lot more watery and tends to "creep" into gaps and cracks. It also needs to be mixed regularly since the particles fall out of suspension a little quickly.

I started by cutting in the edges and the section under the door (by hand, no taping) before painting the expansion joint. Then I moved on to rolling out the floor. Legacy gives a 300-400 sqft/gallon coverage, but I was able to roll my entire 529 sqft with just over a gallon. It took probably two hours though thanks to my tiny roller. The first coat is horribly ugly, so be prepared if you plan on doing this coating.

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Subsequent coatings look better and and go down faster as you go, and they use even less product. Thank God for that, because it's kind of a miserable job. After the first coat, walking into the shop stung my eyes badly. The stink was like a living being, clinging to everything it came into contact with. Hair, clothes, skin, everything. It's horrible.

A quick reminder here to be smart about your pattern when rolling. I broke the floor up into quadrants and rolled them individually. I started at the NW quadrant and rolled that, then the SW quadrant, then the NE, then I painted the SE until I had an unpainted section about 3'x5' in front of the door, then went outside and painted the floor after I walked out. I did this each time. Remember to grab anything you might need before you paint it out of reach. Things like your paper towels, gloves, or your phone. Ask me how I know...

Unfortunately, I didn't plan ahead as well as I should have, so my third coat began at 12:30AM and ran until 2. Then I went in, took a shower, and got three hours of sleep thinking I was probably finished so long as that coat looked nice. Well, in the morning, it didn't look nice. The roller marks were very obvious and I wasn't a huge fan of the untinted HellFire. So I started looking at doing at least one more coat.

First, the prep. Knowing I had left the 6-hour recoat window, I followed Legacy's instructions to re-prep the floor: scuff with a Scotch Brite pad, then wipe down with denatured alcohol. To speed this up, I made a Scotch Brite broom. I was able to use this broom to scuff the entirety of the floor in about 20 minutes. For the alcohol wipedown, I got some denatured alcohol on a rag (don't use paper towels, any bumps on the floor will shred them in short order), got some knee pads on, and just wiped it down on my hands and knees. Not a fun job, but pretty quick given the size of the space.

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Feeling pretty worn out from the previous day, this was enough for me, so I closed up the shop for the day.

The next morning, I restarted the humidifiers. After work, I started my fourth coat. I poured the final two gallons into a larger container, then dumped the 8 oz tint pack in, giving me the 4oz/gallon maximum stipulated by Legacy. It took a while to mix it in, but I could hardly notice the difference in the can. Once I used the brush to cover the edges and expansion joints, I saw the difference immediately and was very excited. This darker color looked so much better to my eyes than the undyed product.

Finally, the roller marks. I found the best way to combat this is to "back roll". Take your fully wet roller and roll a full line until the roller is pretty dry, then start at the top and roll it back with no pressure on the roller. Instead of stopping and rolling in the opposite direction, pick up the roller and start again. This cleans up the lines pretty nicely, but you still have to be really careful.

I did two coats of the darker color to ensure it was a smooth application. 12 hours later, here is the end result:

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HOLY. ****.

This looks fantastic! I cannot believe this is the same floor! The end look is exceptional. I love how smooth it made the floor and I'm really happy with the final color.

I waited a little less than the recommended 72 hours to get in and start working on things, but the higher level of humidity I achieved must have contributed to a faster cure time, so it was pretty well cured by then. I kept the overhead door open for a few hours to air it out. As of 96 hours later, the smell is still there but far less aggressive. I'm sure with some more time to air out it will get taken care of.
 
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wreckdiver1321

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I can confirm the floor has cured up correctly as I've been moving stuff around in the workshop, walking on the floor, and I even accidentally dropped a hammer on it. Still going strong. Not impervious to wood planks with nails protruding though...
 
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wreckdiver1321

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I did a little wood staining last night to get more paneling done. Several drops landed on the floor, and as a test I just let them sit while I finished to project, about 15 minutes.

The drops wiped up with a paper towel. A few left small dark circles behind, and those were quickly taken care of by putting a couple drops of acetone on the paper towel.
 

MerlinsBeard

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MD
I really appreciate the detailed write up and the end result looks awesome. Be interesting to hear how it holds up to normal garage abuse over time.
 
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wreckdiver1321

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I really appreciate the detailed write up and the end result looks awesome. Be interesting to hear how it holds up to normal garage abuse over time.
Thanks. That's the hope for this thread. I'd like to keep the review going for at least a year or two. I'm not showing the floor any mercy either, so it should be a good data point. So far I'm really impressed with it.
 

Jayman17

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Seattle, Wa
I’ve been following along on your floor project, I’m glad you are happy after all you went through. The floor looks fantastic! Enjoy...

Jay
 
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wreckdiver1321

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See these drops of wood glue? They scraped off the floor with a fingernail. Impressive.

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The floor has been holding up really well to proper abuse by a guy doing projects in his workshop. I've rolled all kinds of things on it, dragged things across it, and spilled things. I recently got a chance to pull my Land Cruiser in, and thanks to the weather it had muddy tires.

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I wetted the floor with a garden hose and used a squeegee to push all of the mud and muck out. No problems at all, it just cleaned right off without issue. For ease of cleaning, I'm really happy.

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It does show scuffs fairly easily, but I'm okay with that. It looks like a working rather than a decorative floor. I've fairly conclusively seen these are just surface scuffs though and not any deep scratches.

A quick note on wet floors - after tracking into the shop with snowy shoes, then hosing the floor down with water, I can confirm the bare HellFire is pretty slip-resistant. I've never once felt like the floor was slippery or unstable.

Still happy!
 
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zc15

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Dec 22, 2020
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SE Michigan
I've read a few threads on Hellfire and am sold on it. I do like the tinted look. I wonder if it would have looked any different if each coat had the tint in it
 
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wreckdiver1321

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I've read a few threads on Hellfire and am sold on it. I do like the tinted look. I wonder if it would have looked any different if each coat had the tint in it
Honestly I doubt it.

There was an immediate change from the untainted version when I put down the first tinted coat. The second tinted coat didn't change that color at all, it just solidified it if that makes sense? Like a second coat of paint on the wall.

You can do color flake on HellFire too, so there's that option.
 

bsr22

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Dec 16, 2014
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Wreck.....I agree, your floor does look fantastic! I'm getting ready to place my order and have a couple of questions for you please.

If I'm tracking correctly, you put down 5 coats with tint in the final two coats. How many total gallons of HF did you use on the 529 sq. ft.?

Do the roller marks from the initial coats transmit through later coats, or does the final coat or two determine the outcome? Trying to determine how particular to be with each coat.

Thanks,
Scott
 
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wreckdiver1321

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Billings, MT
Wreck.....I agree, your floor does look fantastic! I'm getting ready to place my order and have a couple of questions for you please.

If I'm tracking correctly, you put down 5 coats with tint in the final two coats. How many total gallons of HF did you use on the 529 sq. ft.?

Do the roller marks from the initial coats transmit through later coats, or does the final coat or two determine the outcome? Trying to determine how particular to be with each coat.

Thanks,
Scott
Thanks Scott!

Not a problem at all. I bought 5 gallons and did the five coats. Coat 1 was pretty thin and used almost the entire gallon, and the remaining coats used somewhere between 5/8 and 3/4 of a gallon. I ended up with around a gallon left over for touchup, which I'm sure will go bad before I ever get to the point of doing any touchup. Tint is really only needed in the final coat to be honest, and the fifth coat I did was totally unnecessary from the standpoint of color bleed or protection. I just finished coat four with horribly visible roller marks. Were it as clean as I wanted, I would have left it at four coats. That being said, five coats made for one hell of a coating. I have dropped stuff with sharp edges on the floor and it does mar the coating a bit, but honestly with the amount of product I have on the floor it basically does nothing substantial.

With the regard to the roller marks, if you can see them while you're rolling, you'll see them when it dries. Make them as invisible as you can because the product itself is somewhat unforgiving in that regard. The good news is that the coats are pretty much completely opaque, so anything from coat 1 will be invisible after coat 2. If you're careful with the final roll, it'll come out fine.
 

NeedMoreGarage

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Looks great and is inspiring me to follow through with doing my own garage. I'm lucky, I have a fairly large garage. But I use the space, to work on and wash my cars, do other projects, etc., and we have snow here so snowmelt and salt are also good at making a mess. But the quotes I got to do a polyaspartic floor coating were all north of $10,000. I love my garage, but it's a work area, not an art gallery. No way I'm spending that much (or more, according to some quotes!) on a floor coating. I looked into a DIY epoxy or polyaspartic coating, but that's a TON of work and still expensive (given I'm providing all of the labor). Someone on Reddit recommended HellFire to me and I've been reading nothing but good things about it. Even the couple threads here where folks weren't initially happy with HellFire have been resolved (and I think chalked up to too-arid conditions during application and curing). Now I just have to accept that my cars will have to sit in the driveway for a few days while prep, coating, and curing are happening. That's honestly probably going to be the hardest part for me 🤣 (oh the mental anguish)!

I have one section of my garage where there's some mechanical equipment and our water filter/softener equipment. Reasonably, I can't move any of it and getting around it will be difficult. How easy is it to cut a line with HellFire? I'm thinking I'll just tape off the area I don't want to coat??
 
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wreckdiver1321

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Aug 12, 2021
Messages
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Location
Billings, MT
Looks great and is inspiring me to follow through with doing my own garage. I'm lucky, I have a fairly large garage. But I use the space, to work on and wash my cars, do other projects, etc., and we have snow here so snowmelt and salt are also good at making a mess. But the quotes I got to do a polyaspartic floor coating were all north of $10,000. I love my garage, but it's a work area, not an art gallery. No way I'm spending that much (or more, according to some quotes!) on a floor coating. I looked into a DIY epoxy or polyaspartic coating, but that's a TON of work and still expensive (given I'm providing all of the labor). Someone on Reddit recommended HellFire to me and I've been reading nothing but good things about it. Even the couple threads here where folks weren't initially happy with HellFire have been resolved (and I think chalked up to too-arid conditions during application and curing). Now I just have to accept that my cars will have to sit in the driveway for a few days while prep, coating, and curing are happening. That's honestly probably going to be the hardest part for me 🤣 (oh the mental anguish)!

I have one section of my garage where there's some mechanical equipment and our water filter/softener equipment. Reasonably, I can't move any of it and getting around it will be difficult. How easy is it to cut a line with HellFire? I'm thinking I'll just tape off the area I don't want to coat??
Taping will stop it dead in my experience. Cutting in is super easy though if you leave your brush fairly dry. HellFire is thin like water, so if you have too much on your brush it will creep. Keep it on the dry side and you'll be fine.

Still very happy with the floor coating. It's held up super well to sparks and weld boogers. Battery acid darkens it but doesn't eat through. It does scuff easily but I don't mind that at all since it's a working floor. Epoxy, paint, wood glue, and everything else I've accidentally dropped cleans up really easily but in my experience shows off your scrubbing. I've scratched mine a bit, mostly from getting a rock stuck under a floor jack wheel, but it hasn't gone all the way through the coating. Again, accept that it will never be as pretty as the day you roll it because it's a working floor. But it's held up really well to my abuse, including woodworking, grinding, welding, oil, grease, auto maintenance, etc. I need to get some new photos to show how it's holding up.

My only complaint is that the floor seems to always be releasing dark gray dust. I think this is more a function of the inconsistent humidity and temperature during my install, or maybe my recoat prep, than the material itself. But if you run your hand across the floor when freshly cleaned, you'll come up with a little dark gray dust on your hand. The coating doesn't seem to be wearing through anywhere, but I'm getting the dust. Frankly because it's my shop and thus never totally clean, it doesn't bother me much, but I try to keep my kids from coming in when they're in nice clothes. :lol:
 
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