It seems like there's plenty of room for it if you increase the angle. In the pictures, at least, it looks like you've got a lot of room to the right?
Lengthen garage?
- Thread starter pip9ball
- Start date
Nighttrain
Well-known member
Pip,
I had the same issue as you in an old garage and I think you can fit the boat and trailer in there with out much issue and not by rebuilding extending your garage.
Try this. Have your yolk (rubber Y thing) above the winch modified and moved six inches forward on the trailer. It looks like it is a welded on there, so you may have to have a shop do that for you. Can’t tell but if it’s a true inboard motor and drive your boat is just on rails and the boat will slide another six inches forward on the trailer. I bet you have several feet from the back of the swim platform to the back of the trailer. By moving the boat on the trailer forward six inches you should not affect the towing either. Give it a try. I was able to move my boat 12" forward on the trailer.
And welcome to GF.
I had the same issue as you in an old garage and I think you can fit the boat and trailer in there with out much issue and not by rebuilding extending your garage.
Try this. Have your yolk (rubber Y thing) above the winch modified and moved six inches forward on the trailer. It looks like it is a welded on there, so you may have to have a shop do that for you. Can’t tell but if it’s a true inboard motor and drive your boat is just on rails and the boat will slide another six inches forward on the trailer. I bet you have several feet from the back of the swim platform to the back of the trailer. By moving the boat on the trailer forward six inches you should not affect the towing either. Give it a try. I was able to move my boat 12" forward on the trailer.
And welcome to GF.
Nighttrain has the right idea. However, by very careful that moving it doesn't upset the tongue weight too much - you should be fine with 6".
If that doesn't solve your problem, you may have to consider moving part of your shared wall with the interior. If you simply build a new interior wall on the inside of your old one, you could partly remove enough of the old one to give you the clearance you need. The current wall is likely load bearing so you'd have to put some type of beam or header in and you won't be able to completely remove it. However, you should be able to remove enough of it to get the space you need and only lose 6" on one dimension of you interior room. Framing/drywall is cheap and easy - you may have to move an electrical box or two but the that should be easy with the small displacements involved.
Having said that, I got he impression that the earlier posts that may have set you off were in jest. Obviously, you're relatively new here so some "tongue-in-cheek" comments come of as rude rather than funny. Avoid getting bent out of shape about them (unless they are WAY out of line) and you'll fit right in here. If you get into a mud slinging match, especially as a new poster, it'll turn off many of the others from wanting to help.
If that doesn't solve your problem, you may have to consider moving part of your shared wall with the interior. If you simply build a new interior wall on the inside of your old one, you could partly remove enough of the old one to give you the clearance you need. The current wall is likely load bearing so you'd have to put some type of beam or header in and you won't be able to completely remove it. However, you should be able to remove enough of it to get the space you need and only lose 6" on one dimension of you interior room. Framing/drywall is cheap and easy - you may have to move an electrical box or two but the that should be easy with the small displacements involved.
Having said that, I got he impression that the earlier posts that may have set you off were in jest. Obviously, you're relatively new here so some "tongue-in-cheek" comments come of as rude rather than funny. Avoid getting bent out of shape about them (unless they are WAY out of line) and you'll fit right in here. If you get into a mud slinging match, especially as a new poster, it'll turn off many of the others from wanting to help.
Thanks for all the replies! I've actually thought about messing with the trailer, but then realized that it's the actual length of the boat. The trailer was designed so when the swim platform is removed that the stern is flush with the end of the trailer and the bow is flush with the swing away tongue. I like the idea of building a new interior wall. This will probably require me to relocate the door in the center of the garage. As far as the wall being load bearing, this was once a 3 car garage where the side the boat is on was a tandem (two deep). The previous owners finished off one of the bays to increase the size of bonus room.
In theory this sounds relatively easy, however I don't trust my skills enough to tackle something like this. Any idea of how much a contractor would charge to do this? I guess I'll have to weigh the costs of doing the renovation with that of a storage unit or leaving the boat angled as it is now. The shelf idea sounds like a good idea too, but it would have to be wide enough and tall enough for the entire stern to back into....which would make a pretty high shelf in the bonus room.
Again, thanks for all the input...I do appreciate it!
-Phillip
In theory this sounds relatively easy, however I don't trust my skills enough to tackle something like this. Any idea of how much a contractor would charge to do this? I guess I'll have to weigh the costs of doing the renovation with that of a storage unit or leaving the boat angled as it is now. The shelf idea sounds like a good idea too, but it would have to be wide enough and tall enough for the entire stern to back into....which would make a pretty high shelf in the bonus room.
Again, thanks for all the input...I do appreciate it!
-Phillip
NOVA87Wrangler
Well-known member
Well since the wall isn't load-bearing, it's really easy to do the work yourself on this. If you've never done any construction before, it's intimidating, but don't let that stop you. The best way to start is really just to swing a hammer into a wall (make sure there's no outlets around!). After there's that one big hole, a huge wave of trepidation wears off and you're committed. Do some reading at DIY websites on framing walls and drywalling and you'll be set.
As for bumping into the room, since the stern is flush with the trailer and pretty high, I would scrap the shelf/mantle under the wall mount TV and actually bump into the room 8" to 12". You'll have the 6" clearance and then you can use the additional 4-6" as a buffer and to install a recessed TV mount. Here's a quick idea below (not to scale).
-----garage----current wall---bumped wall---TV recess
|-----boat------------|-----------|----------------|
I think this will make it look less like an afterthought in the TV room and more professional looking.
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Why not swap the boat +/- some $ for another that fits? Surely there's someone who wants to move up.
How about replacing your garage door with something flexible? I recall seeing some sort of screen or plastic on some garages in SoCal (though it might have been to keep the bugs and animals out and little kids in while providing ventilation, rather than being a "permanent" door).
How about replacing your garage door with something flexible? I recall seeing some sort of screen or plastic on some garages in SoCal (though it might have been to keep the bugs and animals out and little kids in while providing ventilation, rather than being a "permanent" door).
1320stang
Well-known member
Design a website for a home builder and.....
Seriously, $70k boat for a freaking website?
Seriously, $70k boat for a freaking website?
