let's see your craftsman block grinders

[exmaxima1]

That is great to know, thank you. I'll look into new ones if these are sealed. I appreciate the heads up.

Original bearings will not be sealed. They are shielded, and there's a felt washer on the shaft that keeps out the bulk of the dust. I tend to replace them with sealed bearings, which really shortens the spin down time (maybe 30-40 secs??), but I like them for this application. The bearings are relatively small and the rpm is modest so the seals last for many years.

 

[javie]

Thanks drivesitfar an exmaxima1! I did end up finding replacement bearings at Fremont Industrial. Sears chat support said that the new part number for the old one (3161173 from the original manual) is STD215235 and they are sealed bearings. I ordered a couple at $5.45/ea. Now to remove the old ones to prep for the new...thanks again.

 

[lafester]

Hey guys.. as Torqueman pointed out.. we must save them.. [emoji51] or at least bring them in for group therapy after all their years of service so they can reunite with family..


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Well, I finally found one to save. Must be karma for posting the one last week.
This one definitely needs a lot of therapy but is in good condition under the ugly paint. See the pre block thread for a couple more pics.

 

[hemifalcon]

Well, I finally found one to save. Must be karma for posting the one last week.

This one definitely needs a lot of therapy but is in good condition under the ugly paint. See the pre block thread for a couple more pics.

[emoji106][emoji106][emoji106]


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[torqueman2002]

Well, I finally found one to save. Must be karma for posting the one last week.
This one definitely needs a lot of therapy but is in good condition under the ugly paint. See the pre block thread for a couple more pics.

Sweet!

 

[lafester]

Yeah I got off quite a bit of the paint and it is going back together for now. Love the cast iron over the cast aluminum. Even the lamp goose neck is heavy duty compared to the next model. It's even threaded into the grinder base, nice.

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[Reversepolarity]

A friend that I grew up with owns a cam shaft shop. He hooked me up with a 4’ steel cam out of a semi truck. To make a grinder stand.





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[Mr. Wonderful]

A friend that I grew up with owns a cam shaft shop. He hooked me up with a 4’ steel cam out of a semi truck. To make a grinder stand.





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That camshaft is awesome!!! Please post pics when you are done. I am trying to get ideas for a stand for my baldor 8100w.

 

[JRC3]

^^

I know a guy who promotes things like off-road events and shows and one of his vendors makes lamps on the side with camshafts. He bores a hole through it for the cord and welds things flywheels and gears as a base. I wanna say he gets like 300 bucks a pop. Would be a pretty good side hustle for someone with the stuff to do it. Yep, ebay lamps and grinder stands.

 

[lafester]

I grabbed this 1966 half hp mainly for parts but it is pretty complete, only missing one tool rest and 3 feet.

It came with a slightly different lamp shade then I am used to. The vimco shades look the same on my pre block and my other block so I have no idea about this new one. It fits perfectly though and the rest of the lamp is definitely stock.

-Update- Looks like this is a fairly rare plastic lamp shade. Must have been used briefly during the transition away from the Vimco lamps to the newer style. Browsing through some pics I see a couple of them now that I know to spot the difference.

 

[seanmnaes]

Picked up this 397.19580 1/3hp today at the flea market. It seems to be complete except for the tray and a single screw holding the light on the back. It only has two rubber feet on the bottom though. It even has old sears craftsman wheels on it. I was really surprised how great of shape it was in and how well it runs. This is my first CM block so I guess I wasn't expecting how smooth it would be, or how long it would take to spin down.

View media item 97811
View media item 97812Really cool to see a pair of old Craftsman wheels on it. They are both very minimally used as well. I think they will come right off though. Not sure how much I trust vintage wheels.

View media item 97813
-Sean

 

[damon18]

Finally joined the club! Picked up this 397.19580 at an estate sale https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=8135834

Plugged in and runs smoothly although bearings sound dry and takes a very long time to run down. What's the recommended work on these to put them to work? Not wanting to restore, just make it work well and last a long time.

Don't have much space and don't need a grinder very often so planning on attaching it to a board with a T out the bottom so I can clamp it into a Workmate when I need to use it. Anyone done that and has advice? I've seen it discussed I'm sure I got the idea here but can't find anything right now.

Are the lamps hard to find? I'm assuming the hole in the back was for the lamp, is that right? How were they wired in? Should I be worried about loose wires inside since the lamp isn't there?

 

[Reversepolarity]

Finally joined the club! Picked it up at estate sale https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=8135834



Plugged in and runs smoothly although bearings sound dry and takes a very long time to run down. What's the recommended work on these to put them to work? Not wanting to restore, just make it work well and last a long time.



Don't have much space and don't need a grinder very often so planning on attaching it to a board with a T out the bottom so I can clamp it into a Workmate when I need to use it. Anyone done that and has advice? I've seen it discussed I'm sure I got the idea here but can't find anything right now.



Are the lamps hard to find? I'm assuming the hole in the back was for the lamp, is that right? How were they wired in? Should I be worried about loose wires inside since the lamp isn't there?

Nice


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[drivesitfar]

DAMON: not sure you'll be able to find another block light without buying another block and using it's parts, but a lot of members use old lighting and make it look pretty nice. some attach to the back of the grinder and some put their grinders on a stand and attach their lights to the stand.

nice find!!

 

[damon18]

DAMON: not sure you'll be able to find another block light without buying another block and using it's parts,

Were there a lot of different lamps? Or would a light from any 397 block be OK? Looks like original parts mine were 3178249 for flexible goose neck and 3165532 for shade.

The exploded parts diagram doesn't show details of how it attaches to the case or the wiring.

 

[JoCoSawdust]

Damon. Nice block! I was able to find a light from somebody that was parting one out on here but it's hit or miss. I've seen ragged looking blocks sell for as low as 25 bucks. If you could find one of those that has the light that'd be the way to go.

If you pull that plate off the bottom there should be a wiring diagram attached to the other side. If not, shoot up a flare in here and we can get your light wired. It'll attach through that hole on the backside in one of your pictures and be secured with a nut on the other side. Good luck and welcome to the club!

 

[damon18]

I think there were two styles of lamps. One with a 0 degree shade and one with a 90 degree shade.

Damon. Nice block! I was able to find a light from somebody that was parting one out on here but it's hit or miss. I've seen ragged looking blocks sell for as low as 25 bucks. If you could find one of those that has the light that'd be the way to go.

Thanks for the help Frank and JoCo, planning to take this apart and probably replace the bearings following some of the guides I've found around here.

 

[damon18]

DAMON: not sure you'll be able to find another block light without buying another block and using it's parts, ...

Thanks, it's not the end of the world if I don't have a light, I got it to use not collect, but more lighting is always a good thing, I'll keep my eyes open for a parts grinder.

 

[lafester]

They do pop up on ebay once in awhile. All the Craftsman lamps should fit no problem.
Now that you have one you will start seeing more for sale... something will come up and you will either upgrade or get the parts you need.

 

[damon18]

If you pull that plate off the bottom there should be a wiring diagram attached to the other side. If not, shoot up a flare in here and we can get your light wired. It'll attach through that hole on the backside in one of your pictures and be secured with a nut on the other side. Good luck and welcome to the club!

I pulled the bottom off, it doesn't look like the pictures I've seen and doesn't have any date stamp or wiring diagram on the other side.

Maybe it's a home made replacement bottom for some reason? Looks like cut out of galvanized steel.

The light wiring is there all taped up. Everything inside looks clean.

 

[tym]

I pulled the bottom off, it doesn't look like the pictures I've seen and doesn't have any date stamp or wiring diagram on the other side.

Maybe it's a home made replacement bottom for some reason? Looks like cut out of galvanized steel.

The light wiring is there all taped up. Everything inside looks clean.

Looks like someone just cut the wires going to the old lamp instead of unhooking the spade connectors. Weird.

 

[JoCoSawdust]

The bottom plates for those were made out of galvanized steel so looks like yours is original. I've been hit or miss with the date stamps, got a couple without it. Don't know if it wore off (it was just ink) or they missed the party. On the bright side of those wires being taped off you now know where to hook the light up when you find one.

 

[damon18]

Took the tape off to see if the connector was underneath but no go. Taped each end separately to make sure they couldn't touch. Good to know my bottom plate is original.

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[lafester]

Looks nice and clean. I would just pull that lamp wiring out of there.
You have a pic to show where to wire a new one once found.

Took the tape off to see if the connector was underneath but no go. Taped each end separately to make sure they couldn't touch. Good to know my bottom plate is original.

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[tym]

Looks nice and clean. I would just pull that lamp wiring out of there.
You have a pic to show where to wire a new one once found.

+1. Eliminates the short/shock risk created by the PO.

 

[bczygan]

Best way to ship these???

Bill

 

[bczygan]

Best way to ship these???

Bill

I'm thinking a plywood box with the grinder bolted to the bottom.

What would be the best shipper to use?

What should I do to prepare the grinder so it's ready for use by my brother?

Bill

 

[lafester]

I would only bolt down a pre block cast iron model.

I've shipped a couple of these and a double thick box is plenty.
Just use tons of packing and remove the shields, lamp, rests etc.

I had one shipped to me and it was just thrown in a box with NO packing and it did survive somehow.

 

[exmaxima1]

Best way to ship these???

Bill

I’ve shipped a number if them including a pre-block. I use carriage bolts and attach to a plywood board. Wrap the grinder with bubble wrap, with extra around the lamp and cord. The eye shields should be removed and wrapped separately as well. Drop into box. Stuff in blocks of rigid foam to keep it from lifting and seal the box. Use plenty of tape. For the pre-block (or when shipping a vise) I also staple it, but not really mandatory if the box is heavy duty. Good luck.

 

[Chadwilliam1]

Where can i locate this missing left hand guard?

 

[bczygan]

Best way to ship these???

Bill

Also wondering the cheapest way to ship.

FedEx?

UPS?

USPS?

Fastenal?

Greyhound?


Bill

 

[lafester]

You haven't shown us what you are shipping... or did I miss it?

 

[blackdak8]

I’ve shipped a number if them including a pre-block. I use carriage bolts and attach to a plywood board. Wrap the grinder with bubble wrap, with extra around the lamp and cord. The eye shields should be removed and wrapped separately as well. Drop into box. Stuff in blocks of rigid foam to keep it from lifting and seal the box. Use plenty of tape. For the pre-block (or when shipping a vise) I also staple it, but not really mandatory if the box is heavy duty. Good luck.

I purchased this pre-block and was very impress with this packaging and everything was received in perfect condition. (Plus I got an extra scrap of plywood to add to the collection.)

 

[vertguy]

Where can i locate this missing left hand guard?

There's one on ebay and you also could post a WTB ad on here.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Craftsman-Bench-Grinder-Wheel-Cover/274067494930?hash=item3fcfb21812:g0MAAOSwMD5dsv5t

 

[Chadwilliam1]

There's one on ebay and you also could post a WTB ad on here.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Cr...494930?hash=item3fcfb21812:g:D0MAAOSwMD5dsv5t

Thank you

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[WWShop]

I'm trying to remove the glass from the eyeshields but having an issue with prying the smalls tabs without damaging the glass. Any tips?

 

[torqueman2002]

I'm trying to remove the glass from the eyeshields but having an issue with prying the smalls tabs without damaging the glass. Any tips?

They are very prone to snapping off if bent too far.

There is an old thread, but the pics were 'lost' due to the PhotoBucket debacle.

However, you may find the supporting text helpful.

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=329103

 

[bagged89s10]

can anyone tell me how to test these 2 relays to see if they are good or bad? I can’t remember which grinders they come from and someone needs one to fix their block grinder. I don’t want to send them a bad relay. Thanks.

 

[torqueman2002]

can anyone tell me how to test these 2 relays to see if they are good or bad? I can’t remember which grinders they come from and someone needs one to fix their block grinder. I don’t want to send them a bad relay. Thanks.

bagged - I put together a document on relays some time ago and placed it on/in DropBox. --> There are operational/circuit descriptions, diagrams, as well as measurements. Block grinders use Potential or “voltage” relays. Single-phase capacitor-start/capacitor-run motors, need relatively high starting torque. Their main function is to assist in starting the motor.

I hope this helps. BTW - relays are pretty robust, with a low failure rate.

Link--> https://www.dropbox.com/sh/i531to0mw7cr5av/AAB-bEMCR7YbPqhZBX7ytXyga?dl=0

 

[lodestar]

Picked up a 66 block a few weeks ago. Didn't know anything about them. $40 craigslist. Really good shape as you can see. I believe the wheels were original. Glass was good and had all the parts. Cleaned her up and new bearings. Didn't paint the body, just the tin. Then by luck I happened to pick up a 59 pre block last week that my father in-law had tucked away in the corner of his garage on the floor. I figured I may as well do another. I'll post some pic's of that maybe next week if I get er done.