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let's see your craftsman block grinders

torqueman2002

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SE Michigan
Missing both side covers and a tool rest. But, a rear vent and maybe a crown top commercial? Hmmmmm. I'm thinking $50 might be a little high. What do others think?
I've been looking for wheel guard covers for 2 different Blocks for over 2 years.

The wheel covers a designed to contain stones should they fly apart. I have wire wheels or just have 1 waiting, looking sad.

To answer though, too much if you want a complete and safe grinder or for parts.

Oh, sorry this one got by me.

I've been busy with house and retirement stuff.

I'll do better tomorrow.
 
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balane

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Here's the requested dimensions. I think this should cover it.

.
 

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torqueman2002

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That is my plan. I know it's not a popular statement on this thread, but two is enough. I'll keep my round top with the original fine and coarse wheels and convert my flat top to wire wheel on the left and a buffer on the right. It means that I'm going to have to repaint the flat top. It's feeling pretty bad having to sit next to his cleaned up older brother. Can you see the shame and humiliation in his beat up label? I mean, his picture is taken on a garbage can instead of a bar stool! No respect for the flat top, so far. :lol:

With the new bearings, its a good runner. A repaint is in order. I wish I could find a new label, though.
Found a label for you.

05HP257191401fromOWWM.jpg


It came from OWWM/VM.
 

bczygan

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1HP...
Seller got the Paypal payment and will ship today!!!

Looks like this is going to be real!

He is shipping in the original box, as he says it's packed real well. Hope the fumble fingers at the USPS don't damage it. It's insured, but money doesn't cover it.

Holding my breath until I'm holding it in my hands.

Now, here's some of the rest of the story.

I fibbed about it being online, so no one would swoop in and offer this guy more money and grab it out from under me. It was on CL.

After the one was posted in Correy? PA, I decided to look around PA for grinders. Clicked on Pittsburgh and did a search.

To make the search as wide as possible, I just put in "grinder". This brings up everything from antique coffee grinders to big industrial grinders. But it also brings up Sears Craftsman Block grinders that only have the word grinder in the ad.

Another point in my favor was the ad itself. Badly worded ads and poor photographs are great for hunters like us. Sometimes no photos at all is a plus. It scares away the casual shopper. But we are more determined, and willing to go the extra mile.

These photos, as you all could see, didn't reveal exactly what grinder it was. I had to ask him for the model number.

In addition, he wasn't very responsive. He wouldn't call me because I was an out of state number and he wanted to sell locally if he could. And he was busy with selling his house, so this wasn't a priority. And finally, the high price helped keep other buyers from calling him.

Once I know what it was I tried to get him to send a photo of the actual grinder. He never did. That, and his wary and slow response made me think it might be a scam. I didn't have his email or phone or name or address. Nothing real.
This made me wary.
The breakthrough came when he re-listed it in another section of the Pittsburgh CL, this time with a phone number. But even then I didn't notice because it was under a click-able icon named contacts. When I discovered that, I called him right away, even though it was at 10:20 in the evening.
After some chitchat, we became acquainted and found some common interests. Then I was able to beg of him to sell it to me. This was no time, and no grinder to negotiate price on. Trying to save $20 or $30 could have lost the grinder, so I concentrated on making the transaction smooth for him. Talking to him alleviated some of my misgivings about the grinder really existing, but not all of them, as I never did get another photo or his address. And his name didn't become clear until last night when I made the Paypal payment.
Making the transaction work, was work too. He had never received a Payment with Paypal. And he had a few email addresses he used and had to find out which one was the Paypal one. This only made me more nervous. In addition, the ad on CL was still up. Was he still trying to sell it locally? And then the last straw was the debacle with his email with his Paypal address ending up in my spam folder. I found it late last night.
In any case, it all got done in the end. He weighed the box, I made the payment and he is shipping today with insurance and tracking. It just goes to show that sometimes you have to be gently persistent. Some sellers put an ad on CL and then go on vacation for 2 weeks. Be patient. This ad was up for a total of 10 days. Anyone could have gotten it. It's like catching a fish. You have to be always ready and trying and then when you get that little bite, you have to hook it and gently reel it in, until it is safely in the boat. Photos in a couple of days when it gets here.
You guys get out there and search. They are out there. I'm finished for a while. This one was too exhausting. It's been a mental ordeal. Plus the wife would put the kibosh on it.
Search everywhere and at every time of the day and night. Try putting a wanted ad up.
Good luck, and good hunting, or should I say good fishing?

Bill
 

torqueman2002

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Are you looking for the ones with the rounded bulbs, or the later Princess Leia buns on the covers ?

Which model grinders ? With, or without the exhaust ports ?

Curious.
2 styles - PL buns for model 397.19440 (RH guard cover) and pre-Block model 115.7566 (RH guard cover).

Below are pics of the grinder and measurements of the model 397.19440 LH wheel guard cover for reference.
 

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torqueman2002

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Are you looking for the ones with the rounded bulbs, or the later Princess Leia buns on the covers ?

Which model grinders ? With, or without the exhaust ports ?

Curious.
Part II

Pre-Block model 115.7566 (LH guard cover).
Below are pics of the grinder and measurements of the model 115.7566 RH wheel guard for reference. I did find the RH guard cover by chance, the seller didn't know what make or model, I took a guess it would fit and he mailed it to me. It's in the last pic. I'll see if I can find/take a picture of the RH cover and add it here.
 

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zkling

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2 styles - PL buns for model 397.19440 (RH guard cover) and pre-Block model 115.7566 (RH guard cover).

Below are pics of the grinder and measurements of the model 397.19440 LH wheel guard cover for reference.

Did you buy new eye shields for that one or did you clean up the originals real well somehow?
 

torqueman2002

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1HP...
Seller got the Paypal payment and will ship today!!!

Looks like this is going to be real!

He is shipping in the original box, as he says it's packed real well. Hope the fumble fingers at the USPS don't damage it. It's insured, but money doesn't cover it. ...
Bill
:thumbup:

It's surely a test of one's patients and will. I'm keeping my fingers crossed for 'ya.

Curious - what is the USPS shipping break down? I just went through this with a couple of grinders from SE Michigan to Dallas TX area (1 H.P. size & weight were used for reference).

USPSUPSShipping1HP.jpg
 

torqueman2002

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Did you buy new eye shields for that one or did you clean up the originals real well somehow?
I cleaned them up. I don't really recall, but my 'go-to' is simple green for light/moderate and 1st passes.

I uploaded a b4 picture in the above post. They were dirty, but not scratched.

BTW - I have bought new ones from eReplacementParts.com.
http://www.ereplacementparts.com/craftsman-grinder-parts-c-158286_159871.html

I have measured 2 of my grinders with the 'plastic' eye shields, and they have the same dimensions. IIRC there's a post a couple of pages ago, if you'd like to take a look. I did this because there are different size metal framed eye shields and quench (water) trays, I thought it may be similar for the 'plastic' shields as well.

If your model grinder is not listed, or the PN is NA, try a different/similar model.

Mike

Update - I went looking for the Eye Shield p/n - the models I checked are NA now. Sorry.
 
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bczygan

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:thumbup:

It's surely a test of one's patients and will. I'm keeping my fingers crossed for 'ya.

Curious - what is the USPS shipping break down? I just went through this with a couple of grinders from SE Michigan to Dallas TX area (1 H.P. size & weight were used for reference).

USPSUPSShipping1HP.jpg



I don't have the exact breakdown yet, but it was like $41 something for shipping and a few bucks for insurance. I rounded it up for Paypal and used the Paypal gift option. I'm finally confident enough of this guy to do that. Some guys seem like scams but are just a little flaky. He had mentioned the recent passing of his father with some details. I just did a search and found the obit. So there is no doubt in my mind now.

But now I am faced with another question.

Do I assemble and use this pristine grinder?

Once I do, it is no longer pristine. The box has been opened, and will have a label on it when it gets here, but the grinder has never been assembled.

Am I a collector, or a user?

I'm sure in some distant time, a NIB grinder will have some collectors value. Should I keep it that way?

What say you all?

Bill
 
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jakemac

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2 styles - PL buns for model 397.19440 (RH guard cover) and pre-Block model 115.7566 (RH guard cover).

Below are pics of the grinder and measurements of the model 397.19440 LH wheel guard cover for reference.

The wheel guards and covers are listed as still being available for that model at the sears site.

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/Craftsman-Parts/All-Products-Parts/Model-39719440/0247/0721000/00028697/00001?blt=06&prst=0&shdMod=39719440

They're available (but not cheap) for model #397.19591 as well. I bought these to put on a model #397.19590. They fit, but not really. The screw holes are slightly off, and the exhaust port doesn't line up. But it works. (see pic)

I haven't found them with the round covers though.

Edit - the substituted part numbers are the same for both model #'s. So if you order them for your grinder, you'll be getting the same ones that I received. They come painted black. IDK if they'll be a perfect match for your model or not. BTW - They're supplied by Husquvarna ! Go figure :dunno:
 

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torqueman2002

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I don't have the exact breakdown yet, but it was like $41 something for shipping and a few bucks for insurance. I rounded it up for Paypal and used the Paypal gift option. I'm finally confident enough of this guy to do that. Some guys seem like scams but are just a little flaky. He had mentioned the recent passing of his father with some details. I just did a search and found the obit. So there is no doubt in my mind now.

But now I am faced with another question.

Do I assemble and use this pristine grinder?

Once I do, it is no longer pristine. The box has been opened, and will have a label on it when it gets here, but the grinder has never been assembled.

Am I a collector, or a user?

I'm sure in some distant time, a NIB grinder will have some collectors value. Should I keep it that way?

What say you all?

Bill
I know I'll pay you a lot more for NIB! :p
 

CudaChick1968

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... Tolerances/clearances can change after powder coating. ...

?? If it fit before it was coated, it should fit afterwards too; when it's done right, powder coating is only a few mils thick and the temperatures required to cure it are not that excessive in the grand scheme of metalwork. If it got hot enough to change the composition of the metal tempering, it was NOT done properly.

The only reason it may not go back together now is if your coater didn't use high temp plugs to keep the powder out of threaded recesses or didn't mask something sufficiently.

Just like with any other industry, it's always a good idea to check out your outsourced suppliers, actually talk to references and ask to see real work samples. Please don't be a willing victim of a newbie who's just practicing on your parts. :D
 

torqueman2002

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The wheel guards and covers are listed as still being available for that model at the sears site.

They're available (but not cheap) for model #397.19591 as well. I bought these to put on a model #397.19590. They fit, but not really. The screw holes are slightly off, and the exhaust port doesn't line up. But it works. (see pic)

I haven't found them with the round covers though.

Edit - the substituted part numbers are the same for both model #'s. So if you order them for your grinder, you'll be getting the same ones that I received. They come painted black. IDK if they'll be a perfect match for your model or not. BTW - They're supplied by Husquvarna ! Go figure :dunno:
Thanks.

I did see they listed some covers. I guess I'd rather put the $$ towards a Block with the parts(s) I need and part out the rest.

Same part number for different fitting part. :eyecrazy:
 

madoc1

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tm, here are the best pics I have .
 

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McBrownie

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Yes, I have a meter and can usually figure things out, but didn't have much luck on this.
I'll pull it back out, get some pics, and see what it is doing. If I remember correctly, it just hummed when turned on, but it's been a while.

It is possible to get the two motor housing halves out of alignment enough to where the motor won't spin. It just hums. I had this happen on one grinder and it was just a matter of loosening the motor housing bolts, making sure the spindle spins freely and tightening it back up. It took a few try's and working on a flat surface helps. It could be something that simple. Hope this helps.
 
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Outlawmws

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?? If it fit before it was coated, it should fit afterwards too; when it's done right, powder coating is only a few mils thick and the temperatures required to cure it are not that excessive in the grand scheme of metalwork. If it got hot enough to change the composition of the metal tempering, it was NOT done properly.

The only reason it may not go back together now is if your coater didn't use high temp plugs to keep the powder out of threaded recesses or didn't mask something sufficiently.

Just like with any other industry, it's always a good idea to check out your outsourced suppliers, actually talk to references and ask to see real work samples. Please don't be a willing victim of a newbie who's just practicing on your parts. :D

I think this is the key. motor housings have a precise fit from the outside shells that hold the bearings (and hence the armature shaft) to the main frame housing, and almost anything in there will make them misalign...

I've had many times where I and to loosen the bolts, fiddle with the outer shells and re-torque to get the armature to rotate freely...
 

balane

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Not a block grinder but I couldn't think of a better place to post this. At least it's vintage Craftsman. I got this and one other which was about 75% complete for $40. I painted the stand, cleaned it all up and rewired everything. This is a keeper, I've needed one for a while. It runs great. New belts and discs are on the way.

Edit: 9" disc and 6" x 48" belt. 1/2HP Craftsman motor. Model No. 113.22541

.
 

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nine4gmc

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Balane, that's a great sander! I just fired mine up recently for the first time and it was great, been sanding all kinds of **** since :D
 

jakemac

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Not a block grinder but I couldn't think of a better place to post this. At least it's vintage Craftsman. I got this and one other which was about 75% complete for $40. I painted the stand, cleaned it all up and rewired everything. This is a keeper, I've needed one for a while. It runs great. New belts and discs are on the way.

Edit: 9" disc and 6" x 48" belt. 1/2HP Craftsman motor. Model No. 113.22541

.

I have the smaller (much older) version of that, you're gonna love it. I was surprised how often I go to use it. I thought that it would sit mostly idle when I picked it up, but no. I've used it to restore the faces on body working dollys and hammer faces as well as wood projects.
 

cagullett1

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Seeing that sander makes me want to start tearing apart the old Rockwell my dad has had for 30 years. It was my grandfathers, and hasn't been touched in atleast 10 years.
 

torqueman2002

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Here is the latest update on the Arbor adapters for using Blocks as buffers.
Kevin54 PM'd me with a final few questions and I replied a few moments ago.

Kevin54
Torqueman2002
Quote" I haven't forgot you and am working on some prices right now. The last you said was that most likely you want 7 sets. How long to you want the adapters to be? This will be on top of the 3" dimension of the arbor already sticking out of the grinder motors.

For instance, on my buffer, the total shaft length is 7" from motor housing to the end of the shaft, but I have 3/4" shafts. 7" total length is OK.

Do you know what diameter of buff wheels you will be running? The grinder wheels you have listed are 6", 7", and 8". Eastwood, has about the best selection of buff wheels. They carry the diameters of 4", 6", 8", and 10". The 10" fits a 3/4" shaft, and requires a 1 horse minimum motor. the others fit 1/2"-5/8" shafts and run a smaller motor. Not certain what others will be running, but I will post your comments and recommendations.

Would you want me to just make the buff wheel end a 5/8" thread for all of the sets just for simplicity on buffing wheels. Maybe some people wouldn't want Eastwoods buff wheels, but 5/8" should work for all. I know that if a buff pad had a 1/2" hole, it will still go over a 5/8" shaft. There is enough wiggle room in the pads. Then I can make up all of the blanks for the adapters the same size, and the only thing I would need to do is change up the mounting ends for the grinder motor. Executive decision ahead - 5/8" on ALL to keep cost down.

In doing that, it will be easier to turn everything the same size. And if that sounds alright, then all I need is a length that you and the others would prefer. 7" total length, I think these Blocks should handle the extra forces. If it's too close to the motor, then you won't have a lot of pivot room for parts if you need it. And if it's too far, you have to remember that it is an adapter, and not like a complete shaft running through the motor. And as said, mineshaft is 7", but the pad is at 4" away unless i add another spacer to move the pad out more. Also, you will need four large washers for each pair of adapters. The washers on my 10" buff pads are 4" in diameter. If some of the people buy 6" pads....if you put 4" on each side of the pad, it will make the pad stiffer than normal. So maybe something like 3" diameter washers for all of the shafts maybe? I agree - 3" washers should be good.

Along with that, what about spacers. My buffer has 2 spacers on the inside area towards the motor. One spacer is 1" and the other spacer is 2" in length. If I had another spacer, I could add a secondary buff wheel on the shaft and run it with a different compound, depending on what I was doing. Let’s go with 1" spacers. Do you recommend 2/side - 4/pair?

So do you want me to figure in some spacers also? If I make all of the shafts at say 5/8" diameter outside of the mounting area that goes on the motor shaft, I may be able to find some tubing with a 5/8" or a tad larger and just lob off some in the lathe at a couple different lengths. Yes, please make-up spacers for each pair. " End quote.

So, the project is still alive. If you haven't given me your contact information and which choice you voted for, please make your way over to the Poll and let me know.

BTW - I might be able to accommodate add-ons. Post in the thread, Polling is closed, but you can still post; but on that thread to keep it simpler to track.

Thanks. Mike

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=245593
 

SwampCat

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If it was not 2 1/2 hours away, I would already be on my way. Looks pretty darn clean too boot.
 

madoc1

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madoc1
Nice :thumbup:

Thanks, I've added them to my label library.

What brand and color of paint did you use on the 'band'? Looks like a Gold. ?

I first coated it with rustoleum light brown textured and didn't like it, so went over it with plasticote cummins beige. still has the texture, like the cast parts.

jim
 
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