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let's see your craftsman block grinders

torqueman2002

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Jun 3, 2009
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SE Michigan
This morning's swap meet find, twin 397.19440's. Both run great and the stones ring true. The one on the right is missing the wheel collets and neither had the quench tray but I can't complain, the seller was asking $10 each.
Too Cool!
0fa313c3-10b8-4aef-a214-4cbb436cee15.jpg
 
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gilbo

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This morning's swap meet find, twin 397.19440's. Both run great and the stones ring true. The one on the right is missing the wheel collets and neither had the quench tray but I can't complain, the seller was asking $10 each.


did you offer him $4 bucks a piece
 

drivesitfar

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Oct 23, 2013
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IT: happy to hear you paid the FULL price, but you still stole them. good to know they found a good home again.

TM: the crew is looking good and the future at TM's house is so bright they needed the shades. :thumbup:
 

thursday

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May 14, 2005
Messages
147
Location
Utah
I just bought my first commercial grinder, it's a 1/2 hp 7 incher. It's in good condition and has the wheel guards, but not the end caps. If anyone here has a parts grinder I'd be interested purchasing the end caps. Send me a PM or reply. Thanks
 

Davefr

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Block grinder gurus, which is better given similar condition? A 1/2HP Commercial flat top or a 1/2HP Commercial roundtop?

It looks like the flat top has a little higher amps. Is there any other significant difference?

P1040061.jpg


OR

P1030744.jpg
 

torqueman2002

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Joined
Jun 3, 2009
Messages
6,139
Location
SE Michigan

torqueman2002

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 3, 2009
Messages
6,139
Location
SE Michigan
Block grinder gurus, which is better given similar condition? A 1/2HP Commercial flat top or a 1/2HP Commercial roundtop?

It looks like the flat top has a little higher amps. Is there any other significant difference?
Davefr - I haven't noticed any operational differences in the 3 or 4 I have used.

Theoretically, the higher the current draw (amps), the higher the work performed - all else being equal. ;)

BTW - nice examples of the Round-Top/Mail Box and Flat-Top styles of CM Blocks!
-----------------------------------------------------
tumblr_ncb4lfTYc71tmpjgjo1_500.gif
 
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jakemac

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May 21, 2013
Messages
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Location
New England
Assuming ;) it is a m-397.19591 1/2 H.P.; the Cover Guards are available.

p/n - 534436527 Right
p/n - 534436627 Left
part_p_973899_3724200802.gif


http://www.ereplacementparts.com/craftsman-39719591-grinder-parts-c-158286_159871_205923.html

FYI - I bought a pair of these for a 397.19590 model. They'll fit, but the screw holes are a little off and the exhaust port is a little miss-aligned for that model. You'll need to remove the screws to put the sides on and off and fuss with it to get it to line up. There are pictures in this thread somewhere.
 

torqueman2002

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FYI - I bought a pair of these for a 397.19590 model. They'll fit, but the screw holes are a little off and the exhaust port is a little miss-aligned for that model. You'll need to remove the screws to put the sides on and off and fuss with it to get it to line up. There are pictures in this thread somewhere.
Very good point. :thumbup:

See the Compatibility list for exact fits.
CaptureCoverGuard.jpg
 

gilbo

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Joined
Feb 1, 2010
Messages
716
Block grinder gurus, which is better given similar condition? A 1/2HP Commercial flat top or a 1/2HP Commercial roundtop?

It looks like the flat top has a little higher amps. Is there any other significant difference?

P1040061.jpg


OR

P1030744.jpg

if they are both for sale, buy both
 

JCMTools

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Oct 16, 2014
Messages
104
Location
Boston MA
Hi all,

I'm a new member, entirely due to this thread.

I started out with $200 in birthday money for a plunge router (in between jobs right now, so money is a little tight), but the router I wanted was not to be found for my budget. I decided to concentrate on my other needs: spindle sander, bench grinder, bench buffer. I settled on a Ridgid spindle/belt sander, a Porter-Cable 8" variable speed grinder and a Central Machinery 6" buffer. Couldn't afford all three new, so I hit Craigslist.
Sander I got for $80. $110 remaining.
Buffer I got from HF for $34, $76 remaining.
Now stuck - couldn't find the PC grinder.

While researching alternatives, came across this thread and the light broke through the clouds. I love old quality tools and I could probably find a block grinder for a good price. I looked around Boston, CT, RI, NH, VT and ME and found a number of block grinders. I was able to score two within 2 days.

Listed in NH, drove 1:15 each way to get it. Nice guy, sad/interesting story.
Craftsman 397.19521 - 7" - 1/2HP - 5.5A
Asking $200, got it for $80
IMG_20141011_115939138.jpg

IMG_20141011_120029846.jpg


I realized that a block grinder could be set up as a buffer, so I returned the HF buffer and looked around CL some more.
Craftsman Commercial 397.19670 - 8" - 3/4HP - 5.0A
Asking $50, got it for $30
IMG_20141016_112541784.jpg

IMG_20141016_112549539.jpg


Just for grins, I looked around CL some more in a bunch of different cities, and most times, there were no block grinders listed. Final total: $160 with room for a CM sharpening attachment for $20. I think I got very lucky.

Sorry about the long-winded story. I have a bunch of questions, but I'll start with one.

My current plan is to use the 7" as a grinder, and 8" as a buffer. Since the 7" is complete it's the easiest choice and it will also keep the SFPM down a bit (6322) for sharpening. The 8" I'll set up as a wire wheel on the left and a buffer with a taper attachment on the right. This will give me 7226 SFPM for buffing and more HP.

What do you think? Any advice about which grinder for which job?

John
 

drivesitfar

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Oct 23, 2013
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JCM: welcome to the Forum and to the block thread. you come fully armed with those two blocks. I've been looking for a 3/4 commercial block for a while now and i'm sure a few others who frequent this thread have too. nice finds.

as far as which ones to use for what i'm not sure you mentioned what exactly you are planning on doing or making with these so i'll give you my 2 cents as a general rule for grinders. you are missing the 3/4's shield and cover on the right wheel so I'd make that my buffer. i'd also make or have a threaded extension made to attach to the arbor so the wheel has better access. we have a member who might make a pair for $60 if you need them for both sides with right and left threads and will check to see if he'll make just one for a single side for maybe $30 plus shipping. that will save your threads as opposed to the stock ones Craftsman used that messed up the existing threads on the blocks.

as far as the other side i'd probably put some type of wire wheel on it. it sounds like you are going to do knife grinding or drill sharpening so use the 1/2 HP for those wheels.

good luck and you'll have plenty of help if you can't find the answers when you start cleaning them up if you need any.
 

JCMTools

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Oct 16, 2014
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Boston MA
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cagullett1

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Sep 29, 2013
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North Texas
Yep, tough decision but I'm resisting the urge to turn into a hoarder. It's one of the nicest/most complete ones I've ever come across.

Whoever get's it should be able to pass it down to their kids/grandkids.

It's a very nice grinder. The exact same model I bought from Torqueman. I will be watching it... having twins would be nice.
 

JCMTools

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Oct 16, 2014
Messages
104
Location
Boston MA
Brent, those are sold on one of the links previously posted for around $10 pr. It would be hard for anyone to whip some of those up for that cheap unless they already have the material and are doing it themselves to save a couple dollars. jmo


Would it be realistic to think that I could mount a taper to either your or Brent's extensions?
 
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JCMTools

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Joined
Oct 16, 2014
Messages
104
Location
Boston MA
Hi folks,

I've completed the tear-down of the 3/4hp commercial grinder (397.19670) and come across a few things that I could some advice on.

---

Late last night I somehow decided that I should remove one of the arbor snap rings with pliers, since I didn't have a snap ring pliers. Predictably, the snap ring broke. Can I get a replacement at Home Depot, or do I need a special one?

The ugly result of late-night decision-making and the bearings, which are shot.
IMG_20141018_135712330.jpg


---

I'm using Evaporust for the first time on the parts, including the rotor. The stuff is amazing, but it has taken off the bluing on some of the parts like the spring washers. I would think that if I just put on a light coating of oil or lithium grease, they should be fine. Do I need to do anything else?

Spring washers without bluing.
IMG_20141018_135516293.jpg


Other parts that really cleaned up.
IMG_20141018_135522275.jpg


---
I noticed that it looks like the starter winding way overheated at one point, partially burning the winding. The grinder started up just fine, so can I just use it for now or is the stator toast?

Worst-looking side:
IMG_20141018_135600023_HDR.jpg


Other side, less cooked.
IMG_20141018_135543826.jpg


---

Finally, the felt washers are in good shape (Evaporust picture above), but have rust in them. Any ideas on how to clean them, or should I just make new ones?

Thanks,
John
 

Ravenbar

Member
Joined
Aug 3, 2014
Messages
24
Location
Northern NY
I don't come around here much but I figured I'd show some of the modifications(more erplacement parts) I've done to my block grinder recently.

Made a larger tool rest...
DSCF0028.jpg


New endplatemissing when I got it, work in progress, still need to come up with some kind of center hub):
DSCF0063.jpg
 

torqueman2002

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Jun 3, 2009
Messages
6,139
Location
SE Michigan
Tools - See my comments in Blue, below. Also, check out the following restore with a number of similar issues.
http://tinyurl.com/Go-Blue-Block-Grinder
... the snap ring broke. Can I get a replacement at Home Depot Yes, or do I need a special one?

The ugly result of late-night decision-making and the bearings, which are shot.

I'm using Evaporust for the first time on the parts, including the rotor. The stuff is amazing, but it has taken off the bluing on some of the parts like the spring washers. I would think that if I just put on a light coating of oil or lithium grease, they should be fine. Do I need to do anything else? That should be fine.

I noticed that it looks like the starter winding way overheated at one point, partially burning the winding. The grinder started up just fine, so can I just use it for now or is the stator toast? Check the resistance of the coil and check for a short. [Reply #54 & #65]
---

Finally, the felt washers are in good shape (Evaporust picture above), but have rust in them. Any ideas on how to clean them, or should I just make new ones? I cleaned them, and made new ones. [Reply #36] And then found they're available [Reply #59].

Thanks,
John
 

torqueman2002

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Joined
Jun 3, 2009
Messages
6,139
Location
SE Michigan
I just bought my first commercial grinder, it's a 1/2 hp 7 incher. It's in good condition and has the wheel guards, but not the end caps. If anyone here has a parts grinder I'd be interested purchasing the end caps. Send me a PM or reply. Thanks
Any more information, so that people can help you?
 

pendragon1998

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Mar 24, 2012
Messages
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Location
NE Georgia
Does anyone use those white friable wheels in 7" size, and if so, where do you find them? I see them commonly in 6" and 8", but 7" is an oddball size.
 

JCMTools

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Joined
Oct 16, 2014
Messages
104
Location
Boston MA
Best thing to do if the coils are suspect is to measure resistance, then find someone with a megger and test insulation breakdown coil to coil and coil to ground.

JCM: welcome to the Forum and to the block thread. you come fully armed with those two blocks. I've been looking for a 3/4 commercial block for a while now and i'm sure a few others who frequent this thread have too. nice finds.

as far as which ones to use for what i'm not sure you mentioned what exactly you are planning on doing or making with these so i'll give you my 2 cents as a general rule for grinders. you are missing the 3/4's shield and cover on the right wheel so I'd make that my buffer. i'd also make or have a threaded extension made to attach to the arbor so the wheel has better access. we have a member who might make a pair for $60 if you need them for both sides with right and left threads and will check to see if he'll make just one for a single side for maybe $30 plus shipping. that will save your threads as opposed to the stock ones Craftsman used that messed up the existing threads on the blocks.

as far as the other side i'd probably put some type of wire wheel on it. it sounds like you are going to do knife grinding or drill sharpening so use the 1/2 HP for those wheels.

good luck and you'll have plenty of help if you can't find the answers when you start cleaning them up if you need any.

Thanks. I've already taken advantage of your advice!

Here's the plan in more detail:
1/2 7"er
IMG_20141011_115939138.jpg


Grinding, used for some rough grinding on one side and chisel/tool sharpening on the other. I figure that I'm not going to be doing any real heavy grinding, so 1/2hp should be more than enough. So a 30 or 36 standard-type wheel on the one side and a 90-100 white wheel for sharpening/fine work. Also, the smaller 7" wheel will run at 13% less SFPM, so marginally better for tool sharpening than 8".

Question: What do people think about ceramic wheels for tool sharpening? Better than white wheels? Longer lasting? I think I remember seeing a 7" for $69, so about 2x the cost of a white wheel. Would it be worth the extra cost? :headscrat

I saw a very interesting post on grinding wheel recommendations on another site. I can't locate it at the moment, but I'll post when I find it.

3/4 8"er
IMG_20141016_112541784.jpg


Bigger wheel means higher SFPM which would seem to better for buffing, and the higher HP will help too, since I do more buffing than grinding. Also it's already missing the right guard, so it's seems logical to make that side a buffer and the left side put in a wire wheel. I want to use a taper on the buffer side so I can easily change between wheels, which removes the need for a two-sided buffer, or even two separate buffers to hold four different wheels. As far as an extension, I saw a bunch of posts on a group extension buy. Did that ever happen?
 

JCMTools

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Joined
Oct 16, 2014
Messages
104
Location
Boston MA
Here's a link to the post I mentioned about grinder speed and wheels. I don't recall seeing any mention of this in earlier posts. If I missed it, my apologies.

Teaser:
"1750 RPM bench grinders have been sold to gullible woodoworkers for several years now. They are hawked as the cure for over-heating cutting tools while grinding their edges. As grinders they work OK but not as efficiently as the "regular" speed grinders running at 3450 RPM. My complaint with these low speed grinders is they are sold to as a solution to a problem they do not solve. "

Full post:
http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/general/bench-grinders-1750-vs-3600-rpms-215968/
 

Olinrj

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Joined
Jul 5, 2012
Messages
286
Location
Greenfield, WI
I stumbled upon one on craigslist last night and picked it up on the way in to work today. Spins quietly and has all the guards but will need a restoration as it has safety orange paint all over. Only cost me $10. Pretty happy with it and now have a pair of 1/3 hp blocks. Its a 397.19580, with a build date of 5 20 63 (or 68). Photos to follow.
 

ybnormal70

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Joined
Jan 8, 2010
Messages
931
Location
Conway, SC
Here is mine. Pictured the day I brought it home and after a teardown/cleaning.

Enjoy,

Kevin
 

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gilbo

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Joined
Feb 1, 2010
Messages
716
I stumbled upon one on craigslist last night and picked it up on the way in to work today. Spins quietly and has all the guards but will need a restoration as it has safety orange paint all over. Only cost me $10. Pretty happy with it and now have a pair of 1/3 hp blocks. Its a 397.19580, with a build date of 5 20 63 (or 68). Photos to follow.

:needpics:

Here is mine that I got from my grandpa's garage

clean that puppy up , and make your grandpa, proud

Here is mine. Pictured the day I brought it home and after a teardown/cleaning.

Enjoy,

Kevin


very nice find
 

drivesitfar

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Oct 23, 2013
Messages
36,009
Location
Pacific Northwest
All & JCM: Kevin 54 has the ability to make a pair of extensions for our blocks with right and left threads for $60 plus shipping if anybody might need any to make their block a buffer or a wire wheel with better access. PM him if you are interested and have your specs ready when you PM him. arbor size of your block and if you want to keep it the same or maybe make it smaller or a bit larger. not sure if same cost for larger or smaller so you work that out with Kevin.

i'll be buying a pair if and when i ever find a 3/4 or 1 HP block to make a buffer out of.

Vartz: glad to hear your Gramps had a block and that you know own it. you'll be surprised how much power that 1/4 HP actually has and use it as is or if you want to do a total rebuild clean up i'm sure there are plenty of them to be found if you need a little help or just ask if you tried to find and need any.

YB: nicely done. did you use a rag and simple green to spiff it up or do tell?

Olinrj: if you don't have pics nobody will give you a YS for a $10 block find because we think it didn't happen.
 

-Brent-

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Dec 23, 2009
Messages
4,709
Location
Utah
New endplatemissing when I got it, work in progress, still need to come up with some kind of center hub):
DSCF0063.jpg

Sharp work. Before I converted mine to open ends I planned on doing the same thing and using a model a center/hub cap. You can get them blank, i.e., without Ford's logo, too.
 

hell_fish_65

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Joined
Apr 3, 2006
Messages
185
Location
Outside of Austin TX
Picked up my first block grinder this weekend. Not a killer deal, but Austin doesn't seem to have great deals on them as I have been looking for some time. I need to get a label made, make a pair of eye shields and one tool rest.
 

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