torqueman2002
Well-known member
I just updated all ya'lls wish list.
Let me know if there's any changes needed.
Let me know if there's any changes needed.
let's see your craftsman block grinders
- Thread starter emeraldcoupe
- Start date
Hello fellow "Block Heads".
I have been fond of flat and round top Craftsman grinders for years. I have collected several versions except the 1 HP model. Enjoyed reading the posts about them, having learned a lot from this forum.
I now have a few questions about an old round top that was given to me partially tore down in a box.
It is wearing the original gold paint. Someone had started to tear it down with the nuts gone from the case through bolts. The inside wheel guards removed and in the box. No bottom galvanized plate. The center band had 3 screws missing. The power cord was wired to the switch and the side centrifugal contactor switch, but there was no capacitor.
The name plate appears to be the old silk screened type. It is almost impossible to read anything on the plate. The only numbers stamped in it is "357". The bearings are ND 3202 on the inner race with 97502 on the bearing seal.
I know it is not a lot of info to go on, my questions are what HP (guessing 1/3) (1/4).
Should there be a capacitor? What number would it require. The on/off switch was wired in the black wire with the white from the cord wired to the white and red from the motor.
What would be a good replacement bearing?
All of the other block grinders I have collected have been in good to very good shape, thou I use them regularly. Never had to do much more to them than clean the swarf and true the stones.
This one has been so unloved that I feel compelled to rebuild/repaint it. It OHM'ed checked ok, so I think it is worth a new life. It will never be a show queen, it has to earn it's keep wearing some wire wheels.
What would be a paint to come close to the old Craftsman gold? All my other grinders are grey.
It is older than any of my other grinders, any ideas how old?
Thanks, Dave
I have been fond of flat and round top Craftsman grinders for years. I have collected several versions except the 1 HP model. Enjoyed reading the posts about them, having learned a lot from this forum.
I now have a few questions about an old round top that was given to me partially tore down in a box.
It is wearing the original gold paint. Someone had started to tear it down with the nuts gone from the case through bolts. The inside wheel guards removed and in the box. No bottom galvanized plate. The center band had 3 screws missing. The power cord was wired to the switch and the side centrifugal contactor switch, but there was no capacitor.
The name plate appears to be the old silk screened type. It is almost impossible to read anything on the plate. The only numbers stamped in it is "357". The bearings are ND 3202 on the inner race with 97502 on the bearing seal.
I know it is not a lot of info to go on, my questions are what HP (guessing 1/3) (1/4).
Should there be a capacitor? What number would it require. The on/off switch was wired in the black wire with the white from the cord wired to the white and red from the motor.
What would be a good replacement bearing?
All of the other block grinders I have collected have been in good to very good shape, thou I use them regularly. Never had to do much more to them than clean the swarf and true the stones.
This one has been so unloved that I feel compelled to rebuild/repaint it. It OHM'ed checked ok, so I think it is worth a new life. It will never be a show queen, it has to earn it's keep wearing some wire wheels.
What would be a paint to come close to the old Craftsman gold? All my other grinders are grey.
It is older than any of my other grinders, any ideas how old?
Thanks, Dave
drivesitfar
Well-known member
Dave: can you ad a lot of pictures of your disabled block so when the experts wake up in the AM they can give you better answers? i tend to buy grinders as you have that are in better average condition and only need a little cleaning so i'm not the guy to talk to about a rebuild.
there are a ton of posts about the questions you have on this thread and there are several total rebuild threads on this forum.
also since we all like pictures of block grinders can you post a few pictures of your daily users too?
there are a ton of posts about the questions you have on this thread and there are several total rebuild threads on this forum.
also since we all like pictures of block grinders can you post a few pictures of your daily users too?
So, I got my block cheap a couple years ago, and after reading this immense thread I got curious. I went to Craigslist to see if they are still common and cheap. Theres actually a couple 1/3hp for about 30 bucks with limited info. I don't have the space or desire to get a second 6" "block" right now, but I thought this ad was worth showing the picture since the craftsman stand was unique. Appears to be period correct, but not the typical pedestal. If you're in Oregon, $50 for grinder and stand doesn't seem horrible. No affiliation. It's got that white switch with black toggle someone posted earlier in the thread.
http://salem.craigslist.org/tls/4711368387.html
http://salem.craigslist.org/tls/4711368387.html
^ ^ Browntown . . . that C-man grinder/stand looks like perfect "Share the GJ Block Grinder" love and snag that baby for fellow GJer !!
Stand looks like old school Craftsman ?? At $50 that's still great score.
Stand looks like old school Craftsman ?? At $50 that's still great score.
torqueman2002
Well-known member
x2!
classicJackets
Well-known member
I'm waiting to hear back from a guy here in SC about getting one. Won't answer texts and hasn't returned a call 
$25 and looks like one from page 35, and elsewhere from the 50's (?) with the toggle switch facing up and down, not horizontal. Looks to have everything there including some sort of light. Now if only I can get ahold of the guy..
$25 and looks like one from page 35, and elsewhere from the 50's (?) with the toggle switch facing up and down, not horizontal. Looks to have everything there including some sort of light. Now if only I can get ahold of the guy..OK, bear with me as I try to add some pictures of the work in progress as well as some of my other grinders. I admit, I have never added pictures before.
There are no bolt holes under the end frames for mounting a capacitor. Thus the question about the capacitor.
The name plate is very faded. My tired eyes can not make out much on the plate.
Some one has cut part of one end shield off for some reason. I will smooth it up as this grinder will only wear wire wheels.
Located new bearings, decided to go back with metal shielded instead of rubber. Picked up some felt pieces to make brg. seals, left and right hand shaft nuts, nuts for the long bolts and some new screws for the missing ones.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks, Dave
There are no bolt holes under the end frames for mounting a capacitor. Thus the question about the capacitor.
The name plate is very faded. My tired eyes can not make out much on the plate.
Some one has cut part of one end shield off for some reason. I will smooth it up as this grinder will only wear wire wheels.
Located new bearings, decided to go back with metal shielded instead of rubber. Picked up some felt pieces to make brg. seals, left and right hand shaft nuts, nuts for the long bolts and some new screws for the missing ones.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks, Dave
Attachments
drivesitfar
Well-known member
Dave: i see 4 block grinders in your pictures and another one in pieces on the post before. none are a 1 HP so are those pictures coming and how many block grinders do you own?
by the way nice job taking and posting the pictures.
by the way nice job taking and posting the pictures.
I don't want to be a post hog but I thought this grinder deserved it's own post.
All of my grinders were CL finds, as was this one.
I called the fellow and went to see it. Very nice man, more of a desk guy than a bench guy. He told me that his Farther-in-law bought it new and gave it to him when he first married. Never used it much except to sharpen lawn mower blades. He was asking $50., I asked if he was sure that he wanted to sell it as it had family history. His reply was that he wanted it to go to a home that would use it and appreciate it. I gladly paid the $50.
When I got home I looked it over and found some writing on the underside.
"Work is Love made visable so enjoy!" "H.D.B Nov 74"
I called him back and told him about what I found written on the bottom, asked him if he wanted it back. I could here the emotion in his voice as he thanked me for telling him, as he never knew the writing was there. He told me that he was convinced that it had gone to a good home. I told him that if he ever wanted it back to just call and I would return it.
This grinder is used very sparingly, I want to keep as the day I bought it.
All of my grinders were CL finds, as was this one.
I called the fellow and went to see it. Very nice man, more of a desk guy than a bench guy. He told me that his Farther-in-law bought it new and gave it to him when he first married. Never used it much except to sharpen lawn mower blades. He was asking $50., I asked if he was sure that he wanted to sell it as it had family history. His reply was that he wanted it to go to a home that would use it and appreciate it. I gladly paid the $50.
When I got home I looked it over and found some writing on the underside.
"Work is Love made visable so enjoy!" "H.D.B Nov 74"
I called him back and told him about what I found written on the bottom, asked him if he wanted it back. I could here the emotion in his voice as he thanked me for telling him, as he never knew the writing was there. He told me that he was convinced that it had gone to a good home. I told him that if he ever wanted it back to just call and I would return it.
This grinder is used very sparingly, I want to keep as the day I bought it.
Attachments
McBrownie
Well-known member
drivesitfar
Well-known member
Dave: i'll speak for myself and probably the others. we can't get enough of good block pictures and if you have those kind of stories please please post as many times as you wish.
sorry i still didn't see the 1 HP or was that a typo?
sorry i still didn't see the 1 HP or was that a typo?
drivesitfar, Sorry about the HP rating, I edited the post.
While I was waiting for the pics to upload, I found a 1 HP block on CL in St. Louis. Hurriedly sent an e-mail asking for a phone number. A few minutes later the add was deleted. I guess 1 HP was on my mind.
I have to wonder if someone on this forum just bought a 1 HP grinder in St. Louis.
I will have to go to another building to see what is stored there.
These pictured are in the basement. Still searching for a 1 HP.
While I was waiting for the pics to upload, I found a 1 HP block on CL in St. Louis. Hurriedly sent an e-mail asking for a phone number. A few minutes later the add was deleted. I guess 1 HP was on my mind.
I have to wonder if someone on this forum just bought a 1 HP grinder in St. Louis.
I will have to go to another building to see what is stored there.
These pictured are in the basement. Still searching for a 1 HP.
McBrownie
Well-known member
Dave,
Take a look at this detailed write up that our very own Torqueman did on a similar pre-block grinder.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=107194
By the way, looking at TM's with "2 59" stamped in the name plate and yours with a "3 57", do you think that you have a March 1957 grinder?
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jakemac
Well-known member
I'd agree that the surviving 3-57 stamp is the date. That grinder is one of the ones that we've been referring to as a "pre-block", as it has the general shape but is asymmetrical from front to back (the "block" doesn't sit in the middle of the base, it's pushed to the back of the base). The pre-blocks are just as loved here as their younger siblings.
I think it would look good in "Power Bronze".
I think it would look good in "Power Bronze".
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torqueman2002
Well-known member
Hi Dave,
First, see the link in my sig. line for more Block grinder related information, as well as basic grinder set-up, safe operation, ...
I have a 1/4 HP pre-Block m-115.19500. It is very similar to your pictures. The 'date' on the plate is 1 61. It has the centrifugal start sw assembly with out a start capacitor, also.
In the interest of time, here is a link to a PhotoBucket slideshow with a number of pictures. I looked for a GJ post/thread with out success.
http://s786.photobucket.com/user/torqueman2002/slideshow/New%20Old%20Craftsman%2025%20HP%20115%2019500%20Akron
OK, I found the link:
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=3887111&postcount=1285
I just returned from picking up a couple of CM vintage tools, by chance one is a 1/4 HP pre-Block m-115.19500.
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jakemac
Well-known member
I have the same 115.19500 grinder with a 4-56 date code that I posted in here somewhere.
Dave - try looking at the label under a magnifying glass, you may be able to faintly read the faded ink that way. It sometimes helps to shine a flashlight at different angles while you look.
I once spent 4 hours staring at a label this way just to come up with a serial number.
Dave - try looking at the label under a magnifying glass, you may be able to faintly read the faded ink that way. It sometimes helps to shine a flashlight at different angles while you look.
I once spent 4 hours staring at a label this way just to come up with a serial number.
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pendragon1998
Well-known member
I am restoring a pre-block 115.7575 (link in my sig).
BTW, if anyone has the inside wheel guards for a 115-7575, I would be interesting in acquiring them to replace mine, which are damaged. Please PM me if you have replacements!!
BTW, if anyone has the inside wheel guards for a 115-7575, I would be interesting in acquiring them to replace mine, which are damaged. Please PM me if you have replacements!!
I just bought this 1/4 hp in a online auction yesterday picking it up tomorrow, here are a few pics from the auction site. Not the deal I wanted with fees just under $20.
BTW you guys are killing me this makes 3, 2 of them in the last month.
The wife was nice enough to pick it up for me, here are a few close ups.
It looks like the date code is 68, cool that is the year I was born.
BTW you guys are killing me this makes 3, 2 of them in the last month.
The wife was nice enough to pick it up for me, here are a few close ups.
It looks like the date code is 68, cool that is the year I was born.
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So I've been inspired by this thread to rebuild my block. It works fine and I don't think it was used much in its life, but paint is in order. To take it apart to paint, I aim to replace the bearings and some of the electrics "while I'm in there".
Took a couple pics of stuff that I thought folks would find interesting.
My guess is this is the original wheel, with the crown emblem. I'll probably trash it for safety's sake, but it looks cool. Also, when I bought it the fella gave me some buffing compounds. I figure it was probably bought at a similar time as the grinder itself.
Also, even though the 1964 date is almost completely gone from the galvanized plate, the switch shows 3-64 so I'm going to say that is a way to double confirm date.
I'd like to replace the relay, although it works well, I've had enough relays fail (automotive) in my day, that it should be replaced. I took a pick of the numbers, but have no idea if a suitable replacement will be easily found.
On the back it looks like there are a couple punchouts on the trim strip. Maybe to run the power cord to the back instead of the side? Also, maybe a good place to put the fuse like on big blue?
My big question is that the worse shape item is the gooseneck. What are people replacing with? Mcmaster sells gooseneck shafts, pn 50035A663 looks about right. The original gooseneck is about 16.5in long. The mcmaster part shows 1/8-27 threads which I "think" is the same as 1/8 ips threads that are on keyless bulb sockets. So with the mcmaster shaft, a base like pn 14695K55 and a couple locknuts I'll be almost there with the exception of the shade.
Anywho, on to the pics:
Took a couple pics of stuff that I thought folks would find interesting.
My guess is this is the original wheel, with the crown emblem. I'll probably trash it for safety's sake, but it looks cool. Also, when I bought it the fella gave me some buffing compounds. I figure it was probably bought at a similar time as the grinder itself.
Also, even though the 1964 date is almost completely gone from the galvanized plate, the switch shows 3-64 so I'm going to say that is a way to double confirm date.
I'd like to replace the relay, although it works well, I've had enough relays fail (automotive) in my day, that it should be replaced. I took a pick of the numbers, but have no idea if a suitable replacement will be easily found.
On the back it looks like there are a couple punchouts on the trim strip. Maybe to run the power cord to the back instead of the side? Also, maybe a good place to put the fuse like on big blue?
My big question is that the worse shape item is the gooseneck. What are people replacing with? Mcmaster sells gooseneck shafts, pn 50035A663 looks about right. The original gooseneck is about 16.5in long. The mcmaster part shows 1/8-27 threads which I "think" is the same as 1/8 ips threads that are on keyless bulb sockets. So with the mcmaster shaft, a base like pn 14695K55 and a couple locknuts I'll be almost there with the exception of the shade.
Anywho, on to the pics:
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torqueman2002
Well-known member
That is Suckage!I just bought this 1/4 hp in a online auction yesterday picking it up tomorrow, here are a few pics from the auction site. Not the deal I wanted with fees just under $20.
BTW you guys are killing me this makes 3, 2 of them in the last month.
And we warned you, or at least we should have, 1 is almost never enough when it comes to these Block grinders.
torqueman2002
Well-known member
Dave - I was re-reading some old posts looking for information on a 1/4 HP, and I came across the post(s) I believe you are referring to.
I am looking for links to Block restores members are doing. I'll update the post in my sig. line to include the links. Sorry for any confusion.
torqueman2002
Well-known member
torqueman2002
Well-known member
My comments are in Blue.
So I've been inspired by this thread to rebuild my block. Yup, this thread tends to do that to people, thankfully these Blocks are fairly plentiful and not crazy expensive. .... I aim to replace the bearings and some of the electrics "while I'm in there".That's what I like to do.
Took a couple pics of stuff that I thought folks would find interesting.
My guess is this is the original wheel, with the crown emblem. I'll probably trash it for safety's sake, but it looks cool. I agree, the 'Ring' test will check for cracks, but I don't know of a test for a de-graded stone that has been stored in a damp/wet condition. It is cool - maybe save the label with the Crown Top logo? Also, the flip side has a great reminder of proper/safe grinding operation. The problem is, it is covered by the flanges and wheel guard covers and it is seen on install and forgotten.
Also, even though the 1964 date is almost completely gone from the galvanized plate, the switch shows 3-64 so I'm going to say that is a way to double confirm date.
I'd like to replace the relay, although it works well, I've had enough relays fail (automotive) in my day, that it should be replaced. I took a pick of the numbers, but have no idea if a suitable replacement will be easily found. I understand your concern. I don't think the CM Block grinders' relays cycle nearly as many times as an automotive application, and the design (potential relay) and application are different. Below are some links for your reference.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=179799
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=115423
http://www.sensata.com/klixon/motor-protector-4cr.htm
http://www.sensata.com/download/4cr.pdf
.....
My big question is that the worse shape item is the gooseneck. What are people replacing with? Mcmaster sells gooseneck shafts, pn 50035A663 looks about right. The original gooseneck is about 16.5in long. The mcmaster part shows 1/8-27 threads which I "think" is the same as 1/8 ips threads that are on keyless bulb sockets. So with the mcmaster shaft, a base like pn 14695K55 and a couple locknuts I'll be almost there with the exception of the shade. I haven't replaced any goose necks yet, but need to on at least 1 restore. Thanks for the search. From the pics. it is hard to tell what is exactly wrong with the neck, it looks like surface rust. If so, I'd sand, prime, and paint.
BTW - I recall reading that electrical lamp threads are pipe threads, a hold over from when gas-lamps were electrified.
Anywho, on to the pics:
Pupuhd
Well-known member
Dave - I was re-reading some old posts looking for information on a 1/4 HP, and I came across the post(s) I believe you are referring to.
I am looking for links to Block restores members are doing. I'll update the post in my sig. line to include the links. Sorry for any confusion.
So am I correct, the database you are gathering is for GJ member want/need list.
A few days ago you asked me about the one listed firmly for $100. I didn't respond back right away because I was doing research online to see if that was a fair asking (firm) price. It seemed high considering condition and hp. From what I have read here a good majority, if not almost +90%, are getting these block grinders between $20 to $100. All again depending on condition, hp, etc.
My dilemma, I live in southern New Jersey (NO that's not the dilemma), in the Delaware Bay tri-state area covering NJ, DE, PA, I've been watching CL for a CM blockhead grinder, preferably a 6", however most are asking mint prices for these in this area. I did miss two good buys under $45 for a 3/4 hp with extras. The others I've been watching are asking $90-160. The $160 a 3/4 hp complete on original CM stand.
I guess where you live Craftsman block grinders are in abundance, maybe multiplying like rabbits. However here in my area are scares and when they show up are asking premium dollars. No great rush, I'm patient, like I stated before I currently have a 12" Cincinatti, 8" Baldor, just looking for a 6" for light duty grinding and sharpening.
If you can add me to your database, I'm looking for the following in a 6" grinder: 1/3-1/2 hp, complete (light, wheel end covers, shields, tool rests), no stand. Thank you.
torqueman2002
Well-known member
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jakemac wrote---------------------------------------------------------------------------
I have the same 115.19500 grinder with a 4-56 date code that I posted in here somewhere.
Dave - try looking at the label under a magnifying glass, you may be able to faintly read the faded ink that way. It sometimes helps to shine a flashlight at different angles while you look.
I once spent 4 hours staring at a label this way just to come up with a serial number.
__________________
jakemac,
Using reading glasses and a magnifying glass, under florescent, incandescent, and bright sun light, while tilting the name plate at various angles. It appears to be similar to the one Torqueman2002 posted in #3318.
I can make out 115 19XX0. The two missing numbers are just not visible to me. It dose not help that there are scratches on the plate. My guess is that the missing numbers are 50 making it a 115.19500 model.
I think that I will search for a good picture of the correct name plate and have a decal made to resemble a factory plate. Maybe stick it to another plate and put the original one in a plastic bag and store it under the bottom for the next owner when I am gone.
I would like to know why the po started to tear it down as I can not find anything wrong with it.
It may sound a little strange but in this day and age everything is made to be disposable. I am old school and respect well made machinery. I guess that is why I like this style of grinder. Just trying to preserve some examples of well made machines.
I have the same 115.19500 grinder with a 4-56 date code that I posted in here somewhere.
Dave - try looking at the label under a magnifying glass, you may be able to faintly read the faded ink that way. It sometimes helps to shine a flashlight at different angles while you look.
I once spent 4 hours staring at a label this way just to come up with a serial number.
__________________
jakemac,
Using reading glasses and a magnifying glass, under florescent, incandescent, and bright sun light, while tilting the name plate at various angles. It appears to be similar to the one Torqueman2002 posted in #3318.
I can make out 115 19XX0. The two missing numbers are just not visible to me. It dose not help that there are scratches on the plate. My guess is that the missing numbers are 50 making it a 115.19500 model.
I think that I will search for a good picture of the correct name plate and have a decal made to resemble a factory plate. Maybe stick it to another plate and put the original one in a plastic bag and store it under the bottom for the next owner when I am gone.
I would like to know why the po started to tear it down as I can not find anything wrong with it.
It may sound a little strange but in this day and age everything is made to be disposable. I am old school and respect well made machinery. I guess that is why I like this style of grinder. Just trying to preserve some examples of well made machines.
torqueman2002
Well-known member
I started a new thread on the 1/4 HP m-115.19500, pre-Block grinder. It might help answer some questions. Note of caution: I am not 100% comfortable with the placement of the washers (felt & spring) and shims. This guy has been 'updated' with new colors and who knows what else was disturbed.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=4399344#post4399344
That is Suckage!
And we warned you, or at least we should have, 1 is almost never enough when it comes to these Block grinders.
I updated the pics now that I have it in hand.
scooternut
Well-known member
So I'm just beginning to use my new to me 1/2 hp with original stand. One problem, mine likes to vibrate enough that the stand is walking on me. I have a packed garage so I really dont want to bolt it down. I think this thing has seen little use so I don't believe that its worn out, it spins down very smooth and long after shutoff. However, I don't like it being busy on me like that.
Has anyone done a nice adjustable rubber foot mod? I think that would help greatly.
Has anyone done a nice adjustable rubber foot mod? I think that would help greatly.
What you should be focusing on is why the grinder is vibrating so much. If the runout on the shaft is alright, I'd be looking hard at those wheels to make sure they're true. When I got mine, it had terrible vibration...turns out the coarse wheel was warped to hell. Put a new wheel on it and it's silky smooth.
torqueman2002
Well-known member
I saved this from ??? Hope it helps.
Enco has 7" wheels. Their house brand is Tru-Maxx, which are made by Saint-Gobain (who also make Norton). The Bond Grade and Structure in the Aluminum Oxide wheels are N8 and abrasive type 57. In the Silicon Carbide the Bond Grade and Structure is I8 with abrasive type 39C. While Enco doesn't specify the wheels do come with inserts. Set four up recently on my two Rockwell 7" and they run very nicely. Also two for my Rockwell 6". Don't forget a Desmond dresser or dressing stick if you prefer. Their silicon carbine dressing stick has a grit of 24. Some also like diamond point dressers. Enco often has 15-20% discounts with free shipping, so sign up and monitor their emails for specials.
www.use-enco.com
I personally used MSC for a 3/4 HP Block with 8"x5/8". I need to place a new order shortly.