To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

let's see your craftsman block grinders

To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

torqueman2002

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 3, 2009
Messages
6,139
Location
SE Michigan
Re: Anyone going thru Mansfield ohio to Michigan soon

Thank You torqueman
for your assistance of picking this up for me plus the the original CM stand from you that you media blasted for me, you were a great help to me getting the block home and the rockwell and meeting me in Lansing, Mi. you are a real block brother!!! you went out of your way to help me and i so appreciate it thanks for the rubber feet, i did primer the stand and set my painted one under it. Man what a guy won't do for a block grinder...lol... now a 1hp and that will make the line up complete, nice to meet another member from GJ
Hi Ted;

Glad to lend a hand and thanks for the breakfast!

The 3/4 HP looks right at home.

:thumbup:
 

torqueman2002

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 3, 2009
Messages
6,139
Location
SE Michigan
Ok.....You ****!!!

Yes he does!
aed42e37-b76d-4d44-bba5-043421205223.jpg


OK, it's only fair to let everyone know my hard target search zone has changed as of 2:00 PM Pacific time today.

Here it is, and it includes all points north and south for up-to and including 1 hour!
HardTargetSearchc.jpg


Why, you ask?

Torqeman's reach is long and growing. Son of Torqueman arrived in Seattle today! And he found a pub 1 block from his house. Well done son! :beer:
 

cpayne5

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 18, 2009
Messages
89
Location
Virginia
Congratulations! That's a powerful split-phase. I have the same model and another member posted another one a few pages back. Check the inside of your wheel guards for a casting stamp. Mine had 1983 casting marks and this one shows 1984. It would be interesting to see what your's has.

Looks like '82? I, myself, was born July 4, 1982.
20150103_212007.jpg
 
Last edited:

McBrownie

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 27, 2014
Messages
1,827
Location
Cleveland, OH
Here's the rest. I wasn't even looking for one, just browsing the tool section. Brand new, never assembled. Seller was clearing out deceased FIL's stuff.
Only wanted $30 , and he was a great guy to chat with as well.

It's only January 3rd and we have:

1) Best grinder of 2015
2) Best quote of 2015 "I wasn't even looking for one"
3) Best deal of the year - $30 for a NIB block 1/2hp Commercial

Well, I guess I can unsubscribe from this thread until next year. :dunno:
 

torqueman2002

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 3, 2009
Messages
6,139
Location
SE Michigan
It's only January 3rd and we have:

1) Best grinder of 2015
2) Best quote of 2015 "I wasn't even looking for one"
3) Best deal of the year - $30 for a NIB block 1/2hp Commercial

Well, I guess I can unsubscribe from this thread until next year. :dunno:
Going to be hard to best that.
 

jjminch

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 23, 2014
Messages
56
Location
Bastrop TX
Never heard of a block grinder. Now after skimming this thread, I definately want one after reading the thread. Awesome restorations.
 

Toolfool

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 22, 2011
Messages
4,982
Location
Tallahassee, FL
It's only January 3rd and we have:

1) Best grinder of 2015
2) Best quote of 2015 "I wasn't even looking for one"
3) Best deal of the year - $30 for a NIB block 1/2hp Commercial

Well, I guess I can unsubscribe from this thread until next year. :dunno:

Wow. I didn't mean to ruin anyone's year. I just got lucky (I could use some).
 

Outlawmws

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 9, 2011
Messages
39,188
Location
The Badlands
Most pics posted are .jpg, BUT you are limited to 146 kb. not very big.

you can also put it in a zip file and post it, but that has a 97 kb limit...
 

cbacres

Well-known member
Joined
May 28, 2010
Messages
5,998
Location
SW Florida
Tool fool, you just don't know how much YOU ****. Great find!

Neat label Torque, could I get a PDF also?

Minor update on my blocks.
Set my 1 HP 257 series on the bench that I bought early last year. Haven't been able to take apart for a restore. I've been using it to wire wheel some parts. This thing runs so smooth, it's not even clamped down. I'm thinking just a paint job and new stones and I'll be done.
Wiring looks great and it runs great.
Enjoying reading on everyone's block adventures.
 
Last edited:
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

drivesitfar

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 23, 2013
Messages
36,007
Location
Pacific Northwest
TM: i really like how your map has all those blocks ending up at my front door. even though i already own 3 or 4 with the original stands i can think of lots of wheels that i can use so i can make room for a few more especially a 1HP. i do need to set these all up and take a picture so hopefully someday soon after i finish building my welding tables.

I hope your son and his family had a safe trip. if they can handle a few grey days and some rain in Seattle then they will love the summers which are usually pretty nice around here for all their outdoor hobbies.
 

torqueman2002

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 3, 2009
Messages
6,139
Location
SE Michigan
TM: i really like how your map has all those blocks ending up at my front door. even though i already own 3 or 4 with the original stands i can think of lots of wheels that i can use so i can make room for a few more especially a 1HP. i do need to set these all up and take a picture so hopefully someday soon after i finish building my welding tables.

I hope your son and his family had a safe trip. if they can handle a few grey days and some rain in Seattle then they will love the summers which are usually pretty nice around here for all their outdoor hobbies.
drivesit - Funny, I thought all the roads lead back to MI. Oh well, there's plenty of fish in the sea.

They are looking forward to the summers. They like the camping in Itasca, the headwaters for the Big Muddy.
 

pendragon1998

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 24, 2012
Messages
3,733
Location
NE Georgia
attachment.php


Guys, I'm finalizing the replacement label for my 115.7575 restoration and I was wondering if someone could confirm if the area behind the word CRAFTSMAN on the original labels for these grinders is white or metal? In the right hand photo I based my label on (as my own label is badly damaged) it appears that everything is either black, red, or metal colored, but the light is making the background in the upper part look whitish. Or am I wrong, and is the background actually white? Can someone with an intact label confirm? Thanks!
 

Attachments

  • label-comparison-2.jpg
    label-comparison-2.jpg
    79.8 KB · Views: 216
Last edited:

torqueman2002

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 3, 2009
Messages
6,139
Location
SE Michigan
Guys, I'm finalizing the replacement label for my 115.7575 restoration and I was wondering if someone could confirm if the area behind the word CRAFTSMAN on the original labels for these grinders is white or metal? In the right hand photo I based my label on (as my own label is badly damaged) it appears that everything is either black, red, or metal colored, but the light is making the background in the upper part look whitish. Or am I wrong, and is the background actually white? Can someone with an intact label confirm? Thanks!

Not my grinder, it was posted in this thread.

Not a perfect match, but this one looks like it is a metal background.

I hope this helps.
 

Attachments

  • CM 0.25 HP 115.1950 GJ Sam_7415.jpg
    CM 0.25 HP 115.1950 GJ Sam_7415.jpg
    139.3 KB · Views: 18
Last edited:

jakemac

Well-known member
Joined
May 21, 2013
Messages
9,035
Location
New England
My Pre-Block has a similar (slightly different) label and the background behind the lettering is metal. I checked my motors with similar labels, and the same thing. All had metal backgrounds.

Which makes making a decal easier, as most printers can't print white unless they're built to use white ink. (I think one of the old printer brands that could do that was ALPS)
 

exmaxima1

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 25, 2011
Messages
6,339
Location
Midwest
Not my grinder, it was posted in this thread.

Not a perfect match, but this one looks like it is a metal background.

I hope this helps.

4.5 amps for a 1/4 HP grinder?? That's what my 1/2 HP Baldor draws, and it's no slouch.

Those pre-block grinders are way underrated.
 

drivesitfar

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 23, 2013
Messages
36,007
Location
Pacific Northwest
Ex: i agree and those old motors were built to last too. they were more expensive than the tools pre WWII. anybody seen a catalog where a motor was almost as expensive than a metal lathe? these motors were also designed to be moved around the shop from one tool to the next.

ALL: I have seen some 1/4 HP blocks and if i needed a grinder i would have bought it because i'm sure it would do fine for general household work. bring a magnet so you don't buy the plastic covered one because as TM has posted they are not the same quality.
 

drivesitfar

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 23, 2013
Messages
36,007
Location
Pacific Northwest
All: so another member asked me about this grinder's bearings that seem to be attached to the main shaft. he has broken one off and is pretty frustrated. i know how some of you have had trials and tribulations taking bearings off so any idea what might be the fix to remove and replace these? I'll get more information or i'll have him start a thread on this grinder because I've never seen or heard of this set up yet.

any ideas or help and you can also add your special ways of removing bearings on block grinders while you are answering my specific question.

thanks
 

Attachments

  • IMG_7139.jpg
    IMG_7139.jpg
    134.6 KB · Views: 17
  • IMG_7138.jpg
    IMG_7138.jpg
    129.1 KB · Views: 18
  • IMG_7137.jpg
    IMG_7137.jpg
    69.9 KB · Views: 20
  • IMG_7136.jpg
    IMG_7136.jpg
    93.9 KB · Views: 19
  • IMG_7135.jpg
    IMG_7135.jpg
    103.9 KB · Views: 22
  • IMG_7134.jpg
    IMG_7134.jpg
    138 KB · Views: 24

dodgejunkie

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 7, 2014
Messages
198
All: so another member asked me about this grinder's bearings that seem to be attached to the main shaft. he has broken one off and is pretty frustrated. i know how some of you have had trials and tribulations taking bearings off so any idea what might be the fix to remove and replace these? I'll get more information or i'll have him start a thread on this grinder because I've never seen or heard of this set up yet.

any ideas or help and you can also add your special ways of removing bearings on block grinders while you are answering my specific question.

thanks

I don't have a block grinder, but have worked on many pieces of equipment that look like this bearing arrangement.

Is that NOT a sleeve in front of that bearing?

We have High Speed industrial centrifuges with the same arrangement. We have to heat the sleeve and use a puller to pull them both off at the same time.
 

drivesitfar

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 23, 2013
Messages
36,007
Location
Pacific Northwest
DJ: thanks for posting your thoughts. this isn't from a block grinder, but it is from an old grinder and i'm asking for more details from the owner. as you can see the "sleeve" has had a set of vise grips on it, but maybe heat is the answer. i'll let him know and if I get any more information i'll post it here because even though this is the block thread we tend to fix other grinders as well that always helps keep us fresh. at least i hope that is the case to do now and then if you are a regular participant.
 

exmaxima1

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 25, 2011
Messages
6,339
Location
Midwest
any ideas or help and you can also add your special ways of removing bearings on block grinders while you are answering my specific question.

thanks

That broken bearing only has the inner race stuck on the shaft. Just use a Dremel cutoff wheel and be done with it. Even if the shaft gets scarred, it won't matter once the new bearing is pressed on. My father used to remove seized automotive wheel bearings with a cutoff wheel, and it worked, so scaling it down to a little grinder seems a no-brainer.
 

McBrownie

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 27, 2014
Messages
1,827
Location
Cleveland, OH
That broken bearing only has the inner race stuck on the shaft. Just use a Dremel cutoff wheel and be done with it. Even if the shaft gets scarred, it won't matter once the new bearing is pressed on. My father used to remove seized automotive wheel bearings with a cutoff wheel, and it worked, so scaling it down to a little grinder seems a no-brainer.

Ex,

That's what I was thinking too. In fact, it's hardened, so just get it close to being cut through, hit it with a cold chisel, and it should break.
 
Last edited:

u118224

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 9, 2012
Messages
535
Location
Northern MI
He still has to remove the sleeve to put the new bearing on. Those sleeves have to be heated to be removed just like dodgejunkie said.
 

drivesitfar

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 23, 2013
Messages
36,007
Location
Pacific Northwest
DJ, U, EX and McB: so the plan as best we can figure is to heat up the sleeve and pull it off then either pull off the busted bearing ring or cut it off with a dremel or another similar tool. do we agree on that as the best fix? then on the other side to heat up the sleeve and just pull off the old bearing. yes??

thanks guys and that makes sense to me.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_7134.jpg
    IMG_7134.jpg
    138 KB · Views: 12
  • IMG_7135.jpg
    IMG_7135.jpg
    103.9 KB · Views: 14

u118224

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 9, 2012
Messages
535
Location
Northern MI
It looks like a sleeve to me, it's almost the same diameter as the inner race. Go ahead and cut off the inner race with a dremel and see what the other side of the "sleeve" looks like.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom