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drivesitfar

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Bagged: you don't need to explain to me that your search parameters have been tweaked because i won't be upset when you bring home another 1/3 or 1/4 one that had the plain or no shields because it had the cool stand or some other reason.

i do need you to apologize to Doc because i think he fell off his chair and had to go to the emergency room after seeing that Frankenstein crown top grinder you posted. :lol_hitti

EX: you might not need it, but you know who to sell it to if you decide not to keep it and Harley might not even have to have you ship this one. nice find
 

exmaxima1

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EX: you might not need it, but you know who to sell it to if you decide not to keep it and Harley might not even have to have you ship this one. nice find

I don't have it yet, and CL sellers are notoriously flaky, so I won't count my chickens quite yet...
That said, I had asked the seller about the bearings and he was a bit hesitant to respond, and told me to make my own decision (etc) so I suspect I will need to replace them to even consider selling it off. And based on recent sales in my area, buyers do not want to pay for any value-added on machines. But of course, we all do this just for the fun of it anyway!
 

drivesitfar

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EX: of course the golfer might not use his block much hence selling it so might not know the difference between a good bearing or not. since we all know how hard these block grinders can be to find and you have more than an average member's talent if you do decide to spiff it up to sell it I've seen Balane get around $250 for them on Ebay and they pay shipping.

with a block grinder tuned up by you and several other members here i'd be more than willing to pay a little more and know that when it showed up at my door all i would have to do would be to find a place to put it and turn it on.

good luck
 

drivesitfar

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NC: it looks like a split phase from the label and not a commercial version, but if he is including all those hand grinder wheels i'd have to go take a look and probably bring it home.

ALL
: since I've never personally cracked a grinders glass or plastic shield while using it can anybody tell me how they crack? are the grinders getting dropped or ??
 

exmaxima1

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since we all know how hard these block grinders can be to find and you have more than an average member's talent if you do decide to spiff it up to sell it I've seen Balane get around $250 for them on Ebay and they pay shipping.

Well, Balane and Nick (Autoprts) have an uncanny talent at selling vises and such on eBay for huge $$$, but they are museum-grade when they are done with them. My last 1/3hp block sold for $65 after I spent a few hours cleaning off paint drips, truing the wheels, and de-rusting/repainting the metal-frame eye shields---the grinder was still a bit rusty but not bad. And it was an industrial model with lamp. Blocks do not seem to sell well in Chicago. I still have a 3/4hp cap start left to sell, so maybe I will have better luck with it.
 

Cypherian

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Drives,
It has been my experience that the no frames crack from vibration over time. In the case of the 1/3 I got the with no frames shield appears to have come loose and fallen down against the wheel. We had one baldor in the shop with frames get it's glass shattered by a small bolt getting caught in a wire wheel and fired back out the top.

Cypher
 

Farmall450

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Well, Balane and Nick (Autoprts) have an uncanny talent at selling vises and such on eBay for huge $$$, but they are museum-grade when they are done with them. My last 1/3hp block sold for $65 after I spent a few hours cleaning off paint drips, truing the wheels, and de-rusting/repainting the metal-frame eye shields---the grinder was still a bit rusty but not bad. And it was an industrial model with lamp. Blocks do not seem to sell well in Chicago. I still have a 3/4hp cap start left to sell, so maybe I will have better luck with it.

For that price they're hardly worth selling.
I considered getting a duplicate on clist to paint and sell but then there wouldn't be any profit to save more! :willy_nil
 

NC Homestead

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NC: it looks like a split phase from the label and not a commercial version, but if he is including all those hand grinder wheels i'd have to go take a look and probably bring it home.

Drive I know this has probably been covered, but I have not found it yet in the thread, but what are the differences in the industrial rated vs commercial rated grinders. I know the regular home versions are usually 110V while the Commercials are 110/220V, but not sure about the ones marked industrial rated?
 

drivesitfar

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NC: Doc and Ex and others would know better, but i'm pretty sure the commercial and industrial blocks are pretty much the same and just a little different design on the body styles. To my knowledge and i do keep up with this thread nobody has rewired a block to 220 yet so maybe they are waiting for me to because i do own a 1/2 HP commercial. i bought mine from a wood worker that was the original owner and i think mine is dated 1964.

Cyph: thanks for the post and of course i guess something could hit them.

All: my guess is most of them get broken while moving them or dropping them don't you think so too?
 

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McBrownie

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NC: it looks like a split phase from the label and not a commercial version, but if he is including all those hand grinder wheels i'd have to go take a look and probably bring it home.

Drive I know this has probably been covered, but I have not found it yet in the thread, but what are the differences in the industrial rated vs commercial rated grinders. I know the regular home versions are usually 110V while the Commercials are 110/220V, but not sure about the ones marked industrial rated?

Don't forget the Commercial Industrial rated ones. :p
View media item 50168
For 1/2hp and higher, it almost always (except for a 3/4hp flat top or two) seems to represent dual-voltage capacitor-start machines. Lately, however, we've seen quite a few 1/3hp and even a 1/4hp split-phase that are Commercial rated. I'm guessing there was a bit of marketing at work with these old machines.
 

drivesitfar

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McB: sure I know now i need to go check Craigslist or some other place to find that grinder because I WANT ONE. ok i'm over it almost.

speaking of 3/4 HP blocks have you thought about re wiring the Blockmeister to 220?
 

McBrownie

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McB: sure I know now i need to go check Craigslist or some other place to find that grinder because I WANT ONE. ok i'm over it almost.

speaking of 3/4 HP blocks have you thought about re wiring the Blockmeister to 220?

I haven't seen a cap-start in my area for a looong time. I have never seen a 1hp listed locally. Every once in a while, there is a strange sucking sound (the TM Block vacuum) coming Northwest of here and I think that might have something to do with it. Although, I don't think he has found any of the big ones lately either.

I don't have 220 in my garage, but I could always splice into the central A/C, right? :lol_hitti
 

exmaxima1

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I haven't seen a cap-start in my area for a looong time. I have never seen a 1hp listed locally. Every once in a while, there is a strange sucking sound (the TM Block vacuum) coming Northwest of here and I think that might have something to do with it. Although, I don't think he has found any of the big ones lately either.

I don't have 220 in my garage, but I could always splice into the central A/C, right? :lol_hitti

Alright, I'll bite----WHY would you want to reconfigure to 240v on a grinder that only draws 6 amps?
 
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drivesitfar

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Ex & McB: as far as why I'd like to see or be the one to rewire a block to 220 my answer is if the powers at be that designed these awesome grinders said it was possible then that's good enough for me. they must have had a good reason or why bother is what i'm thinking.

since one of you or Doc or some of the other very handy members could probably wire a block for 220 in their sleep i'd like to hear how it worked from one of you, but i'm getting my shop cleaner and i'm able to actually find a thing or two now so maybe it will be me.

Doc: what say you? maybe next month when you have some quality time with your blocks again?
 

nh_yota

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Now I'm a member of the club!

IMG-20150625-00119.jpg

Just picked this one up today from a local guy off CL for $40. All it needed was a little cleaning with a rag which I just finished on my patio with a cold beverage. I checked for a date stamp on the underside but there was none - does anyone have an idea how old this is? I'm thinking 70's to early 80's.
 

McBrownie

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Now I'm a member of the club!

IMG-20150625-00119.jpg

Just picked this one up today from a local guy off CL for $40. All it needed was a little cleaning with a rag which I just finished on my patio with a cold beverage. I checked for a date stamp on the underside but there was none - does anyone have an idea how old this is? I'm thinking 70's to early 80's.

Congratulations! I agree with the early to mid-70's estimate. One of the early flat tops. :thumbup:
 

firemanast

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Now I'm a member of the club!

IMG-20150625-00119.jpg

Just picked this one up today from a local guy off CL for $40. All it needed was a little cleaning with a rag which I just finished on my patio with a cold beverage. I checked for a date stamp on the underside but there was none - does anyone have an idea how old this is? I'm thinking 70's to early 80's.

Nice very clean !:thumbup:
 

exmaxima1

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Ex & McB: as far as why I'd like to see or be the one to rewire a block to 220 my answer is if the powers at be that designed these awesome grinders said it was possible then that's good enough for me. they must have had a good reason or why bother is what i'm thinking.

My guess is to operate them off existing 3 phase power (use just 2 legs), or run multiple grinders off a single 220 line. I can't see any valid rationale for running a single grinder off 220 power in a home application.
 

drivesitfar

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EX: since there was maybe a need for smaller grinders at shops that had all that power maybe that is the reason Craftsman made these grinders with that option. i'd still like to see or hear about one that was rewired to 220 and if there was or wasn't a difference.

thanks for sharing more of your wisdom
 

Outlawmws

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My guess is to operate them off existing 3 phase power (use just 2 legs), or run multiple grinders off a single 220 line. I can't see any valid rationale for running a single grinder off 220 power in a home application.

220 is more efficient, so for large power consumption...

I'd agree generally for the average Homeowner it's not worth it, but I wired both in my shop, and have wired some equipment to single PH 220, which will be nice when I get the VSD setup for the Mill and the Big 220 grinder I have.
 

exmaxima1

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220 is more efficient, so for large power consumption...

To be clear, it's more efficient in wire utilization since reduced current reduces losses in long wire runs--that's the primary reason we use high voltage to deliver power across the nation. But the total power in the grinder will be the same whether you run the motor windings in parallel (120vac) or series (240vac). The grinder will still have the same HP. There's no magical boost in power when configuring to 240 volts.
 

exmaxima1

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It's all apart on my bench. Maybe later this weekend I'll have it back togther....

I spent a few hours cleaning and painting my new 1/3hp block grinder (only the silver parts). A bit more truing the wheels with my single point diamond jig. Wow, I am amazed how smooth this little guy runs. Missing a side cover, but otherwise a great grinder.

BTW, I think the original owner had the rests on backwards---they seem to fit better this way.
 

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McBrownie

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I spent a few hours cleaning and painting my new 1/3hp block grinder (only the silver parts). A bit more truing the wheels with my single point diamond jig. Wow, I am amazed how smooth this little guy runs. Missing a side cover, but otherwise a great grinder.

BTW, I think the original owner had the rests on backwards---they seem to fit better this way.

Ex, I like the look as it is. It's cleaned up, but still looks old. I only have one split-phase from the '80's and it is not as smooth as a cap start. How does an older 1/3hp compare?
 

exmaxima1

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Ex, I like the look as it is. It's cleaned up, but still looks old. I only have one split-phase from the '80's and it is not as smooth as a cap start. How does an older 1/3hp compare?

I think it depends to some degree on the quality of the wheels. This grinder has newer USA wheels and after some minor shimming to get rid of the wobble, and truing with the diamond point, it runs extremely smooth. Comparable to my 6-inch Baldor in fact. It doesn't move on the bench, and it takes at least a minute to wind down. Bearings have no noise that I can can detect, so I think this block was babied. BTW, date stamp is Feb 8, 1967.
 

ARFLY

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I am thinking of joining the Craftsman block grinder club tomorrow. A local shop has one that is probably from the early 70's. It is 1/4 hp. It needs new wheels and some cleaning. It does not have a light on it. They are asking $60. Does that sound OK on the price or is it a little high?
 
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