let's see your craftsman block grinders

[harleybuilder]

They both came out great !
What color is the red that you used ? It almost looks like a candy finish.

It's a rustoleum burgundy. Not sure on the exact name since the can I have left doesn't have the name sticker on it [emoji22]

 

[bagged89s10]

Bagged: nice find and even with the original stand too.

Sweet!

You ****!

Thanks drives and TM! Now I own 4 craftsman stands. Three 1/2hp commercial units, one 1HP, one 1/3Hp, and one 1/2HP commercial incomplete for parts. I'm at block grinder hoarder status.
I have also owned a complete 1/2 HP flat top which I sold and a 1/3 HP round top which I sold for parts. Oh yeah and I did own a 5th stand which I sold.

My 1/3HP will be up for sale this week. Debating on selling it with or without a stand.

 

[firemanast]

Harley the grinders look great, job well done !

 

[harleybuilder]

Harley the grinders look great, job well done !

Thanks fireman. ....

 

[bagged89s10]

A few months ago I picked up a 397.19400 1/4hp and a 397.19590 1/2hp. Little rough when I got them but I finally got them finished. ..
Sad part is that I made the 1/2hp to nice to use. ..[emoji25]



1/4hp


1/2hp


Both

Awesome job on those. I really like that red/black combo!

 

[Dan in Pasadena]

Awesome job on those. I really like that red/black combo!

Me too!

 

[bagged89s10]

Just a group picture of three of my grinders and also my new car lift.

Nice grinders. What paint colors did you use in them?

 

[bagged89s10]

I went to pick up the 1HP and it ended up being from where I actually picked up a vise for a fellow GJ member

I had a chance to plug it in at the sellers place before I brought it home. She purrs and takes over a minute to wind down.

It needs some cleanup



.

 

[bagged89s10]

Is this an actual grinder accessory?

 

[WhoWhatNow]

Is this an actual grinder accessory?

Yes, it is the mount for the chisel sharpening accessory.

 

[bagged89s10]

Yes, it is the mount for the chisel sharpening accessory.

For this guy that I have in my 1/2 horse?

 

[WhoWhatNow]

For this guy that I have in my 1/2 horse?

For that one a a very similar one. They were branded Craftsman. I sold one that came on my 1/2 hp round top with that exact mount.

 

[bagged89s10]

How much paint are you guys stripping off the aluminum side guards, etc when repainting them? If they were steel, I would just dunk then in my electrolysis tank to strip then without a second thought. Is a good scuff up and wipe with tsp prior to painting enough?

 

[harleybuilder]

How much paint are you guys stripping off the aluminum side guards, etc when repainting them? If they were steel, I would just dunk then in my electrolysis tank to strip then without a second thought. Is a good scuff up and wipe with tsp prior to painting enough?

Bagged
I took my down to bare aluminum.

 

[McBrownie]

How much paint are you guys stripping off the aluminum side guards, etc when repainting them? If they were steel, I would just dunk then in my electrolysis tank to strip then without a second thought. Is a good scuff up and wipe with tsp prior to painting enough?

I use stripper and take everything down to bare aluminum on the castings. Then I wipe down with lacquer thinner, paint the color and then clear coat. The center tins, I sand down enough to remove any rust, primer, color, then clear. No paint stripper on the centers because I don't want to accidentally ruin the labels.

 

[bagged89s10]

I use stripper and take everything down to bare aluminum on the castings. Then I wipe down with lacquer thinner, paint the color and then clear coat. The center tins, I sand down enough to remove any rust, primer, color, then clear. No paint stripper on the centers because I don't want to accidentally ruin the labels.

Ok I thought most guys on here were stripping it all. I just hate using stripper. But I guess I'll do it right if I paint one. Luckily mostly all of the ones I've bought have clean aluminum parts. Just the rust on the center. The 1HP I just grabbed is going to need some love though.

 

[harleybuilder]

Ok I thought most guys on here were stripping it all. I just hate using stripper. But I guess I'll do it right if I paint one. Luckily mostly all of the ones I've bought have clean aluminum parts. Just the rust on the center. The 1HP I just grabbed is going to need some love though.

I don't use chemical stripper, I use wire wheels on my other block grinders. .

 

[bagged89s10]

$30 purchase.

1/2hp commercial. Complete with the old style light, metal eye shields, quench tray and stand.

 

[torqueman2002]

$30 purchase.

1/2hp commercial. Complete with the old style light, metal eye shields, quench tray and stand.

Oh, BTW ..... you ****!

 

[torqueman2002]

I've received a PM about what wire wheel I would use "... for cleaning up threads on bolts and occasional gasket removal and light rust. ...."

My recommendation for a home shop/garage for a 6" wheel 1/3-HP Block use is:
75843607 $59.33 ea. 6" x 1/2" Face x 5/8" Hole, Brass
75843359 $32.33 ea. 6" x 1/2" Face x 5/8" Hole, Steel

http://www.mscdirect.com/browse/tn/Abrasives/Brushes/Power-Brushes/Wheel-Brushes?navid=12100164

What do others use/recommend?

 

[erty67]

$30 purchase.

1/2hp commercial. Complete with the old style light, metal eye shields, quench tray and stand.

You ****

Sent from my HTCONE using Tapatalk

 

[rayperkins]

Hello, I am hoping to find help here. Without doing any research I bought what appears to be a 397.19340 grinder via an online auction:
http://bid.auctionnation.net/cgi-bin/mnlist.cgi?anation78/48/1

When I got it the wheels spun freely but when powered on it would make a loud buzzing/humming sound and spin very very slowly (maybe 1 RPM).

I tried spinning it up with a drill then turning it on and it would instantly slow to the 1 RPM speed. I tried spinning it up both directions with the same results.

I took the cover off and wired around both the switch and start relay (this model has no capacitor). It still buzzed.

I measured the resistance between the coil leads and they all seem in order (~11 for main winding, ~3 for the starter winding, ~14 for the combined loop). I say this is about in order based on this posting by torqueman2002:
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=5035526&highlight=resistance#post5035526

I separated the two halves to find that 3 of the fingers that connect the two halves of the case together were broken. 2 of them were inside the case still. They were all from the same connection point, the once closest to the power switch.

JZiggy seemed to have similar problems and fixed it with shims, but I am not clear exactly where they went or how they fixed the problem.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=5038025&highlight=assembly#post5038025
I can understand if the shaft were binding the motor could not spin. I thought he said it would spin freely before shimming, so am not sure what was re-aligned to make it go again. I am also not sure that this case can ever be re-aligned in a way that will make it work. I assume it was tipped over at some point breaking the fingers inside. Maybe it is hopelessly out of alignment in some way now.

I have tried several times to adjusting the alignment of the two halves hoping to see some signs of life. It seems like it very subtlety changes things (not spinning at all, speeding up to 1.5 RPM), but nothing that makes me think it is going to work again.

Thanks for you help. I am excited about getting this going again. I have happened upon several older USA made tools recently and am enjoying fixing them up more than using them for some reason.

I can add pictures if helpful. Thanks for the help.

Ray

 

[torqueman2002]

Hi ray,

I'll take a stab at answering your post.

This following picture is of the same model Block as yours.

The red circles identify what I understand you to say are broken: "fingers that connect the two halves of the case".

These are the guide-tabs/fingers that align/orient the field-winding/case/rotor-bearing assemblies.

If these are missing/broken/bent, it is possible the grinder can free-wheel OK, but under power not have sufficient clearance to operate properly.

Mis-alignment is possible, even with all 3 guide-tabs/fingers in place.

Electrically by-passing the power switch is straight forward.

However, at start-up the relay supplies power to the start-up winding and the run winding. At about 75% of the operating speed, the relay OPENS the start-up winding circuit.

With the relay connected, it is possible to spin the grinder wheel by hand at start-up, to see if the grinder will reach full speed. If it does, the relay might be at fault.

My best guess is the missing guide-posts/fingers will make the grinder difficult, if not impossible to align.

Please post pictures of your grinder and what is broken/missing.

Thanks and good luck.

Welcome to the thread, BTW.

Hello, I am hoping to find help here. Without doing any research I bought what appears to be a 397.19340 grinder via an online auction:
http://bid.auctionnation.net/cgi-bin/mnlist.cgi?anation78/48/1

When I got it the wheels spun freely but when powered on it would make a loud buzzing/humming sound and spin very very slowly (maybe 1 RPM).

I tried spinning it up with a drill then turning it on and it would instantly slow to the 1 RPM speed. I tried spinning it up both directions with the same results.

I took the cover off and wired around both the switch and start relay (this model has no capacitor). It still buzzed.

I measured the resistance between the coil leads and they all seem in order (~11 for main winding, ~3 for the starter winding, ~14 for the combined loop). I say this is about in order based on this posting by torqueman2002:
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=5035526&highlight=resistance#post5035526

I separated the two halves to find that 3 of the fingers that connect the two halves of the case together were broken. 2 of them were inside the case still. They were all from the same connection point, the once closest to the power switch.

JZiggy seemed to have similar problems and fixed it with shims, but I am not clear exactly where they went or how they fixed the problem.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=5038025&highlight=assembly#post5038025
I can understand if the shaft were binding the motor could not spin. I thought he said it would spin freely before shimming, so am not sure what was re-aligned to make it go again. I am also not sure that this case can ever be re-aligned in a way that will make it work. I assume it was tipped over at some point breaking the fingers inside. Maybe it is hopelessly out of alignment in some way now.

I have tried several times to adjusting the alignment of the two halves hoping to see some signs of life. It seems like it very subtlety changes things (not spinning at all, speeding up to 1.5 RPM), but nothing that makes me think it is going to work again.

Thanks for you help. I am excited about getting this going again. I have happened upon several older USA made tools recently and am enjoying fixing them up more than using them for some reason.

I can add pictures if helpful. Thanks for the help.

Ray

 

[bagged89s10]

Has anyone filled the plastic shade screw hole in the light shades? This is my poor attempt at it with some hammering and then Jbweld.


3 coats of rustoleum hammered silver. Baked between coats. It's slightly lighter but pretty close.

 

[rayperkins]

Thanks for the help. Here is a close up of the broken fingers:

Here is my hotwire job, bypassing the switch and energizing the primary and start windings:

When you say there may not be sufficient clearance, is that between the rotor and stator? Also, should the rotor be magentic? I noticed none of my tools stick to it. I haven't worked with AC motors much, but the small DC motors I have worked with would stick to my tools due to the permanent magnets inside.

Thanks!
Ray

 

[Bobioz1]

That's a catastrophic failure. Best to move on.

 

[stage20]

finally got a block grinder!
397.19390
its in great shape. has complete light setup and the front tray. almost new wheels. only one of the gaurds is broken. 1/3hp. spins nice and smooth. no play in shaft.
been looking for one for about 2 years now.
my ryobi is about to go in the trash.
20 bucks cash and 98.8 miles later

 

[torqueman2002]

Ray, my comments/answers are in Blue.

Thanks for the help. Here is a close up of the broken fingers:
Do you have the other (3rd) piece? If you do, I'd JB Weld it, and try it.

Here is my hotwire job, bypassing the switch and energizing the primary and start windings:

When you say there may not be sufficient clearance, is that between the rotor and stator?
Yes.
Also, should the rotor be magentic?
Not this style rotor/motor.

I noticed none of my tools stick to it. I haven't worked with AC motors much, but the small DC motors I have worked with would stick to my tools due to the permanent magnets inside.

Thanks!
Ray

 

[torqueman2002]

Has anyone filled the plastic shade screw hole in the light shades? This is my poor attempt at it with some hammering and then Jbweld.

3 coats of rustoleum hammered silver. Baked between coats. It's slightly lighter but pretty close.

I think it looks real good.

I know one poster (FrankLee IIRC) put a knob with a screw through that hole, which is a clever use of the hole.

 

[drivesitfar]

Ray: sometimes the parts are worth more than the grinder so if you can't fix it with Tourqueman's (Doc's) methods then keep it and either use the parts on another grinder or find the parts for this one.

also welcome to the forum and the block thread

Stage: happy for you because your 1/3 is better than almost any new 1/2 HP on the market today that is imported. also the drive and gas might have been fun to see part of the countryside while picking it up. Doc will be along with the official handshake and warnings that you might already be aware of. cheers

Bagged: you are in vise grinder heaven so enjoy it while you can.

 

[torqueman2002]

finally got a block grinder!
397.19390
its in great shape. has complete light setup and the front tray. almost new wheels. only one of the gaurds is broken. 1/3hp. spins nice and smooth. no play in shaft.
been looking for one for about 2 years now.
my ryobi is about to go in the trash.
20 bucks cash and 98.8 miles later

Stage,

Nice Block at a great price.

 

[stage20]

Ray: sometimes the parts are worth more than the grinder so if you can't fix it with Tourqueman's (Doc's) methods then keep it and either use the parts on another grinder or find the parts for this one.

also welcome to the forum and the block thread

Stage: happy for you because your 1/3 is better than almost any new 1/2 HP on the market today that is imported. also the drive and gas might have been fun to see part of the countryside while picking it up. Doc will be along with the official handshake and warnings that you might already be aware of. cheers

Bagged: you are in vise grinder heaven so enjoy it while you can.

Im not aware of any warnings. I bettter do some homework

 

[drivesitfar]

Stage: first warning is that once you own a block it's close relatives and usually bigger and more expensive ones will start following you home. next one is that you'll be spiffing them up for all your relatives and kids. there are more i'm sure, but nothing like the Block grinder is a waste of money or won't do the job it was intended to.

nice find

 

[torqueman2002]

Im not aware of any warnings. I bettter do some homework

What was I thinking?

Follow this link, take the Pledge, and heed the warnings.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=4832270&postcount=5478

Oh, welcome to the Block thread and Block ownership!

 

[notlob]

I thought I was done buying block grinders for awhile at least, but this one (my 4th) kept calling my name at an estate sale last week. It's a minty fresh 1/2 HP crowntop commercial, original wheels, side covers appear to have never been removed, quench tray looks like it's never had water in it. It was not even dirty - just dusty. Paint is 99%+. It looks like the PO tried grinding some wood on it once or twice since it was new in ~ 1973.

By far the smoothest grinder I've ever used. I timed it last night - took 2 mins 25 seconds to wind down. This one's a keeper.

This brings me up to 9 grinders including a wissota, a baldor, and one asian home depot POS.

I will be putting the (like new) 1/3 hp Baldor and 2 block grinders (1 minty 1/2 hp; 1 ugly but runs good 1/2 hp) in the classifieds later his week.

 

[McBrownie]

Thanks for the help. Here is a close up of the broken fingers:

Here is my hotwire job, bypassing the switch and energizing the primary and start windings:

When you say there may not be sufficient clearance, is that between the rotor and stator? Also, should the rotor be magentic? I noticed none of my tools stick to it. I haven't worked with AC motors much, but the small DC motors I have worked with would stick to my tools due to the permanent magnets inside.

Thanks!
Ray

Ray,

Here is my thought. Try gluing those fingers back on, not for strength, but for reference points to help with alignment. JB Weld would probably do the trick. A few of us have had flat tops that are tricky to get aligned properly. The symptoms are the same as what you are seeing, loud humming, and little or no rotation. What I did on mine was loosen up the long bolts and place the base on a very flat surface. Then I snugged them up just a little, gave a try, loosened, adjusted, etc.. etc.. I finally got it running. Once it was working, then I snugged up the bolts. If you can't get it going, then I would part it out like others have suggested and put it towards the next one. They are great little machines.

 

[timbitca]

With the amount of them you guys have been finding all over, I'm starting to wonder if these were ever sold here on the East Coast of Canada.

I've yet to see one in the wild, let alone for sale. Not that I'm not looking for one!

 

[JZiggy]

Guys, I learned a valuable lesson today while wire wheeling some stuff on my 3/4hp --

RESPECT YOUR BLOCK GRINDER.



I was brushing a short 1/2 hardened shaft with a gear on it. The gear snagged on the brush and it sucked it in, bounced around a bit, and spat it out the debris exit. Scared the **** out of me!

And I thought I had killed it. The motor nearly stalled and the stone on the other side got all loose -- I was sure the shaft had broken or something. But it turned out that the nut on the side just loosened. I put it back and it seems to run fine, still nice and smooth. Man these things are tough.

 

[McBrownie]

Guys, I learned a valuable lesson today while wire wheeling some stuff on my 3/4hp --

RESPECT YOUR BLOCK GRINDER.



I was brushing a short 1/2 hardened shaft with a gear on it. The gear snagged on the brush and it sucked it in, bounced around a bit, and spat it out the debris exit. Scared the **** out of me!

And I thought I had killed it. The motor nearly stalled and the stone on the other side got all loose -- I was sure the shaft had broken or something. But it turned out that the nut on the side just loosened. I put it back and it seems to run fine, still nice and smooth. Man these things are tough.

That would be scary. My youngest (21) was using the wire wheel on my 3/4hp and stalled it. I didn't think it could be done, but he did it. Then we had a little talk about machine safety.

 

[bagged89s10]

That would be scary. My youngest (21) was using the wire wheel on my 3/4hp and stalled it. I didn't think it could be done, but he did it. Then we had a little talk about machine safety.

I can just imagine on a 3/4 or 1 HP. I don't think I've even stalled out my 1/2HP commercial grinder yet. I haven't used the 1HP yet.