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let's see your craftsman block grinders

Waltrip88

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Joined
Jul 29, 2014
Messages
117
My newest 1/2 hp commercial grinder. Only $30.

This is is third grinder I've bought that was mounted on a bench with an old bullet wilton on the other end. Sadly the lady said she couldn't sell it yet as it reminded her too much of her late husband. She did take my number in case she ever wants to get rid of it.
 

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stage20

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Nov 5, 2013
Messages
3,722
Location
pcola FL
now that i have a block, i still think i can put my little ryobi to use for now until i find another block grinder. :)

going to put a wire wheel and buffing wheel on the ryobi so i dont have to change wheels all the time.
 

Outlawmws

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Joined
Aug 9, 2011
Messages
39,195
Location
The Badlands
That would be scary. My youngest (21) was using the wire wheel on my 3/4hp and stalled it. I didn't think it could be done, but he did it. Then we had a little talk about machine safety. :bitchslap :D

I've stalled a one horse (8") before, but I don't really count that as it was a Taiwanese grinder (that I have since killed...) :pimpflash
 

drivesitfar

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Oct 23, 2013
Messages
36,009
Location
Pacific Northwest
Stage: as mentioned in the warnings your thinking about not changing wheels is why most of us own several blocks.

McB: i bet your son will benefit from your LITTLE CHAT.

ALL: I've almost stopped the wheels on my Baldor 3/4 buffer, but it was a test and sort of on purpose so i was able to get everything out of the way quickly. I've heard knife makers using buffers or belt grinders and having it throw the knife across the room or at their feet or body. these are powerful machines that is for certain.
 

Cypherian

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Oct 11, 2014
Messages
1,197
Location
Delaware
With the amount of them you guys have been finding all over, I'm starting to wonder if these were ever sold here on the East Coast of Canada.

I've yet to see one in the wild, let alone for sale. Not that I'm not looking for one!

If your closer to St John , And don't have one by next July find one here in DE and pay for it I can pick it up and bring it up with me. I go home to Maine every year for a few weeks 30 min from Calais .

Cypher
 

Youngguns

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Joined
Jul 11, 2014
Messages
643
Location
Mtns of Western Maryland
Whose video is this?

I recently picked up a block grinder, and it's missing the water tray. I also believe that its bearings have seen better days. I'd like to replace them if possible. Is it still possible to get said parts through Sears? Are the bearings the same throughout a certain period? I believe mine is from 1967.
 

exmaxima1

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Jun 25, 2011
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6,341
Location
Midwest
Whose video is this?

I recently picked up a block grinder, and it's missing the water tray. I also believe that its bearings have seen better days. I'd like to replace them if possible. Is it still possible to get said parts through Sears? Are the bearings the same throughout a certain period? I believe mine is from 1967.

Standard 6203ZZ (double shielded---not sealed), available most anywhere. I buy mine on the auction site for a few bucks each,including shipping. I've done them so many times now on blocks that it only takes me about 15 minutes total. It helps if you have a puller with long arms, and a steel tube to drive the new bearings back on.
 

torqueman2002

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Joined
Jun 3, 2009
Messages
6,139
Location
SE Michigan
Whose video is this?

I recently picked up a block grinder, and it's missing the water tray. I also believe that its bearings have seen better days. I'd like to replace them if possible. Is it still possible to get said parts through Sears? Are the bearings the same throughout a certain period? I believe mine is from 1967.
What maxima said ^, and the larger quench/cooling tray is available, see the following link (post #2).
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=4000528#post4000528

Also, check the link below for bearing removal. Note: afaIk, only the 3/4 & 1-HP models have the inner C/E clip on the shaft.
http://tinyurl.com/Go-Blue-Block-Grinder

As another install option, see the link to the YouTube Channel in my signature line for using a freezer and a hot plate. No special tools required, they literally drop on and shrink to fit the arbor shaft.

When you can, post some pictures. We love to see pictures.

Any question, just ask away.

Welcome to the Block thread, and see this link for the 'secret' hand-shake.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=4832270&postcount=5478
 
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Loscaldazar

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Joined
Feb 23, 2013
Messages
2,385
Anyone got an 8 Inch they are looking to part out? I'm missing a few parts from my 257.192190. I had ordered them from ereplacement parts, but after a month and a half, they informed me the parts were discontinued. Need a right side guard, right side flange, and right side tool rests (I might just fabricate the tool rests since those are easy enough).
 

torqueman2002

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Joined
Jun 3, 2009
Messages
6,139
Location
SE Michigan
Anyone got an 8 Inch they are looking to part out? I'm missing a few parts from my 257.192190. I had ordered them from ereplacement parts, but after a month and a half, they informed me the parts were discontinued. Need a right side guard, right side flange, and right side tool rests (I might just fabricate the tool rests since those are easy enough).
So, it looks like this guy?
Fi%20image%202.jpg


What part numbers and what other models use them?

The Block above is for sale in the SE Michigan area, local pick-up only, BTW. (not mine)
 

timbitca

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Joined
Aug 7, 2012
Messages
966
Location
Moncton, NB, Canada
If your closer to St John , And don't have one by next July find one here in DE and pay for it I can pick it up and bring it up with me. I go home to Maine every year for a few weeks 30 min from Calais .

Cypher

I'm in Moncton, which is about 1-1.5 hours from St John's, so not terribly far away :) I'll keep that in mind...
 

Loscaldazar

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Feb 23, 2013
Messages
2,385
What part numbers and what other models use them?

The Block above is for sale in the SE Michigan area, local pick-up only, BTW. (not mine)

Yeah, it looks like that one. Too far for me to drive though to get it :(

Part numbers are:
Right Hand Side Guard: 534628127
Right Hand Tool Rests: 4655 and 5219135
Outer Flange: 4937

It's a beast of a grinder, so I really hope I can find the parts to restore it to full functionality.
 

Youngguns

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Joined
Jul 11, 2014
Messages
643
Location
Mtns of Western Maryland
...the larger quench/cooling tray is available, see the following link (post #2).
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=4000528#post4000528

When you can, post some pictures. We love to see pictures.

Any question, just ask away.

Welcome to the Block thread, and see this link for the 'secret' hand-shake.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=4832270&postcount=5478

Thank you, thank you! I wasn't able to find the cooling tray link in that thread. Plenty of pictures, but no link. Also, attached is my lone picture right now, previously posted in the GS2015 thread. Along with it is an additional grinder I picked up; both for $20.
 

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McBrownie

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Mar 27, 2014
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Cleveland, OH
Missing right side guard, flange and tool rest? Get a multitool and you won't need them.

Oh ho! That is a slippery slope with an awesome ending. Plan on dropping $300 and never going back to stones. See The Blockmeister link in my signature line. My opinion, and it is just an opinion - you won't regret it. :rocker:
 

bagged89s10

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Joined
Mar 13, 2005
Messages
4,607
Location
CT
Oh ho! That is a slippery slope with an awesome ending. Plan on dropping $300 and never going back to stones. See The Blockmeister link in my signature line. My opinion, and it is just an opinion - you won't regret it. :rocker:


I was going to try to make one, but the belt/disc sander kit is just so nice. I might just have to liquidate a couple of my grinders and order the kit from trick tools.
 
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exmaxima1

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Jun 25, 2011
Messages
6,341
Location
Midwest
Oh ho! That is a slippery slope with an awesome ending. Plan on dropping $300 and never going back to stones. See The Blockmeister link in my signature line. My opinion, and it is just an opinion - you won't regret it. :rocker:

You're being too modest. It's more than opinion----it's a FACT that belt grinders rule
 

torqueman2002

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Joined
Jun 3, 2009
Messages
6,139
Location
SE Michigan
Yeah, it looks like that one. Too far for me to drive though to get it :(

Part numbers are:
Right Hand Side Guard: 534628127
Right Hand Tool Rests: 4655 and 5219135
Outer Flange: 4937

It's a beast of a grinder, so I really hope I can find the parts to restore it to full functionality.
I'll see if those p/n's match any spares I might have, when I return from a trip.

Please remind me in a week.
 

stage20

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Joined
Nov 5, 2013
Messages
3,722
Location
pcola FL
257.191200 1/4 hp. Does not look like the traditional block but is not round like a normal grinder. It says totally enclosed split phaase capacitor motor on the front. Has mini light and factory cord
 

stage20

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Joined
Nov 5, 2013
Messages
3,722
Location
pcola FL
well i bought it. missing the tool rests and tray but has the guards. decent 1/2 inch wheels.

turned it on and it just buzzes. touch the wheel the slightest bit and it spins up and works correctly. not sure if these have a start capacitor or something is burned up inside.
price was 24 bucks, which i thought was decent already. we settled at 10 bucks, both parties happy. ill have some pics up this weekend.

any insight to the motor issue is appreciated.
 

nine4gmc

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Joined
Mar 24, 2012
Messages
14,357
Location
Dallas
257.191200 1/4 hp. Does not look like the traditional block but is not round like a normal grinder. It says totally enclosed split phaase capacitor motor on the front. Has mini light and factory cord


Is it plastic or metal?
 

rayperkins

New member
Joined
Aug 29, 2015
Messages
4
Fixed.

I JB Welded the broken "fingers" and fiddled with it an awful lot, but now it works. It took a lot of alignment attempts, but moving to a more sturdy flat surface seemed to get me a lot closer, then just trying over and over made it go. In the end I didn't need any shims or anything I got it going and tightened everything up and it works.

It does seem very temperamental though. At every stage of reassembly I would restart it and several times it went back to doing the buzzing/humming. So I would take that part off again and monkey with it (lifting it and dropping it back down on the table mostly) and it would start going again. The big sheet metal piece that goes over the top was giving the most trouble. It is a bit beat up and out of square so I could see how putting it in place and cranking down the screws could shift the position of the two halves. I had to just snug up the screws, hopefully they don't work loose.

It does seem to get warm to hot around the housing. I was wondering if the heat was making it go back to the buzzing/humming and not the alighment but am not sure. I checked the current draw I started at a over 5.2 amps and by the time I was done it was just over 5 amps with an LED bulb installed. This seems to be about right for a 1/2 hp model based on previous posts. So it doesn't seem to be drawing too much power and overheating. It is possible it is not turning as fast as it should and the rest of the energy is turning to heat.

I am hopeful it works, and think if I bolted it to a sturdy bench it would probably be ok, but my space isn't big enough to have it permanently mounted. I think it is going to go out of whack from moving it around, but time will tell. It did seem to work better the more I ran it.

When I took it off the mount it was on I found some rubber feet, maybe they are original, who knows.

Thanks for all the advice,
Ray
 

BSAschields

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Joined
Jan 27, 2011
Messages
450
Location
East Coast
New grinder for me. Its only a 1/4 horse but for 2 bucks at an auction . And it works. Im pretty happy. Question though. Where are you guys getting the new decals for the front when you restore these suckers?
[/URL
 

torqueman2002

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Joined
Jun 3, 2009
Messages
6,139
Location
SE Michigan
257.191200 1/4 hp. Does not look like the traditional block but is not round like a normal grinder. It says totally enclosed split phaase capacitor motor on the front. Has mini light and factory cord

Is it plastic or metal?
I don't have any entries in my 'data base' of Blocks with that model number, but Google images came up with this.
_57_2.jpg


If this is like your CM grinder, I am sorry to say it is not a Block grinder and I doubt there are many, if any parts in common.

Add: the need to give it a 'push-start' is most likely a problem in the start-up circuit. Check the wiring, and connections are tight and clean; if they are, I'd suspect the capacitor. If you are not able to find an exact match (Granger's has them, as well as other suppliers), you can safely 'go-up' in value to the next nearest value.
 
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torqueman2002

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Joined
Jun 3, 2009
Messages
6,139
Location
SE Michigan
New grinder for me. Its only a 1/4 horse but for 2 bucks at an auction . And it works. Im pretty happy. Question though. Where are you guys getting the new decals for the front when you restore these suckers?
OK, first let me welcome you to the Block thread, see this link for the pledge and important information.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=4832270&postcount=5478

Next, let me say $2?! Yes, you ****!

There is a Word DOC file of similar labels in the link (Post #3) in my signature line.

There is also information on replacement eye shields, choosing/ordering/maintaining grinding wheels.

Lastly, I know you are using the term 'these little suckers' in a kink way, we like Blocks. ;)
 
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BSAschields

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Joined
Jan 27, 2011
Messages
450
Location
East Coast
Thanks . Yes "Suckers" was meant in a kind way. Ive been using a grinder for years that as soon as I touch the metal to it the wheel stops . That *****. This one will get the same test. Seems good so far though. I will keep an eye out for more HP. Seems these grinder have become collectable... :)
 

torqueman2002

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Joined
Jun 3, 2009
Messages
6,139
Location
SE Michigan
ray, that is great news! Another Block rescued! Please see my comments in Blue.

Fixed.

I JB Welded the broken "fingers" and fiddled with it an awful lot, but now it works. It took a lot of alignment attempts, but moving to a more sturdy flat surface seemed to get me a lot closer, then just trying over and over made it go. In the end I didn't need any shims or anything I got it going and tightened everything up and it works.

It does seem very temperamental though. At every stage of reassembly I would restart it and several times it went back to doing the buzzing/humming. So I would take that part off again and monkey with it (lifting it and dropping it back down on the table mostly) and it would start going again. The big sheet metal piece that goes over the top was giving the most trouble. It is a bit beat up and out of square so I could see how putting it in place and cranking down the screws could shift the position of the two halves. I had to just snug up the screws, hopefully they don't work loose.

I agree, align the Block on a flat level surface with the through bolts loose and the center band un-mounted (remove the power switch for accessibility). Snug the bolts and check for proper operation, then install the center band with power switch. You might even apply thread locker to the through bolts.

It does seem to get warm to hot around the housing.
The Blocks I have worked on will get warm to the touch. If it too hot to keep your hand on, that is a sign of too much interference. It could even be the bearing is moving in relation to the arbor/shaft and/or the housing. Loctite has a bearing mount that may help.

I was wondering if the heat was making it go back to the buzzing/humming and not the alighment but am not sure.
My guess is the heat is related to the alignment, as was the buzzing/humming.

I checked the current draw I started at a over 5.2 amps and by the time I was done it was just over 5 amps with an LED bulb installed. This seems to be about right for a 1/2 hp model based on previous posts. So it doesn't seem to be drawing too much power and overheating. It is possible it is not turning as fast as it should and the rest of the energy is turning to heat.

I am hopeful it works, and think if I bolted it to a sturdy bench it would probably be ok, but my space isn't big enough to have it permanently mounted. I think it is going to go out of whack from moving it around, but time will tell. It did seem to work better the more I ran it.
Once it is aligned and happy, use the rubber feet to secure it to a piece of plywood, with the intent to keep the Block pieces all aligned to one another.

When I took it off the mount it was on I found some rubber feet, maybe they are original, who knows.

Thanks for all the advice,
Ray
You betcha'!
:thumbup:
 

MPOWERD

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Joined
Jun 7, 2011
Messages
578
I just picked up two of these...

A 397.19591 - 1/2 Horsepower and a 397.19580 1/3 Horsepower. Both are being shipped to me right now.

I am looking for a manual (or copy) for the 397.19591...
 
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rayperkins

New member
Joined
Aug 29, 2015
Messages
4
Temperamental indeed.

Sure enough it did not work shortly after being fixed. Not sure what changed, maybe cooled off, maybe solar flares, it wasn't working.

I added shims of exactly 2 beer can walls thick on the connection points that did not have JB weld. This was something I thought about while applying the JB weld and considered just making a sleeve of JB weld since this is only in compression but decided just to do the joint to thinking I could clamp it to squeeze out most of the JB weld.

Now with the shims, it works awesome, better than it did at any previous point. The current draw has gone up slightly to 5.15 or so, but maybe it will be less when it is warmed up.

I am glad I took the time to fix this.

I saw a 1/4 horse model on CL and was going to abandon this to buy that one but someone is driving from 3 hours away to buy it.

Ray
 

McBrownie

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Mar 27, 2014
Messages
1,827
Location
Cleveland, OH
Temperamental indeed.

Sure enough it did not work shortly after being fixed. Not sure what changed, maybe cooled off, maybe solar flares, it wasn't working.

I added shims of exactly 2 beer can walls thick on the connection points that did not have JB weld. This was something I thought about while applying the JB weld and considered just making a sleeve of JB weld since this is only in compression but decided just to do the joint to thinking I could clamp it to squeeze out most of the JB weld.

Now with the shims, it works awesome, better than it did at any previous point. The current draw has gone up slightly to 5.15 or so, but maybe it will be less when it is warmed up.

I am glad I took the time to fix this.

I saw a 1/4 horse model on CL and was going to abandon this to buy that one but someone is driving from 3 hours away to buy it.

Ray

Ray,

Great news and way to hang in there. My flat top with the alignment issues runs a little warmer than my two round tops. But, it is a split-phase and the round tops are cap-starts. Not sure if that has anything to do with it.
 
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