G20-Budo
Well-known member
I was watching a YouTube video by tubalcain - mrpete222, when I spotted a familiar figure (of a tool) in the background at 10:35.
You're too funny torqueman.
let's see your craftsman block grinders
- Thread starter emeraldcoupe
- Start date
You're too funny torqueman.
torqueman2002
Well-known member
Poser!
Sure got me looking though.
The end frames are shaped just a little differently, the cut-outs for the feet are not on the sides, ...
bubinga
Well-known member
I don't think that's a CM block....
Poser!
Sure got me looking though.
The end frames are shaped just a little differently, the cut-outs for the feet are not on the sides, ...
It's a Poser, or a want-a-be...................
EDIT
LOL, Like Minds.
I didn't even read you called it a "poser" till just now. The way it was snuck in there beside the Quote HTML and the .....
(That's funny, Right?)
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I cleaned it up a bit, did a ring test on the wheels and they seem fine. put a wire wheel on the right side, put a proper extension cord on it and that thing runs like new. it was really smooth with the grinding wheels but has a touch of vibration with the wire wheel, but that I think is pretty typical...
on to make a new guard for the right side. I saw the thread on the other forum someone linked to about using sheet metal sandwiched between plywood and using a oxygen tank cap in the press to form the cone...if I get time this weekend I will see how my fab skills are...my press is an old dake hand screw press so we'll see if it (or my arm) has enough power.
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bubinga
Well-known member
here is one here, On Pittsburgh CL pretty rough missing the side wheel guards.
Don't know if anyone's interested, They want $50.00 for it too.
If not, let me know, I can delete it.
http://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/tls/5974066477.html
Edit,
Is it me, or is a chunk missing out of the left side, (as you're looking at it)
Don't know if anyone's interested, They want $50.00 for it too.
If not, let me know, I can delete it.
http://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/tls/5974066477.html
Edit,
Is it me, or is a chunk missing out of the left side, (as you're looking at it)
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That's a Pre-Block (cast iron) model, and the base version: split-phase, no end covers, vanilla..
Besides the broken end bell, it will need lots of TLC with paint, glass, new cord, probably bearings, left rest. Way too much effort for $50. I would rate that a $10 parts grinder.
Too bad it was the left guard broken, as I have a right side guard under my bench from the last Pre-Block I scrapped.
There's more info under the Pre-Block thread:
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=339921&highlight=Pre-block+love
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EOC_Jason
Well-known member
Yes, wire wheels will cause vibration, especially cheap ones. Sometimes if you check and spin by hand you can find they are not centered on the shaft well and you can loose the nut and hold them centered better and tighten by hand, then with a wrench.
so I fab'd a right side cover for the 8" block, screw press worked just fine. used one of the wife's old cookie sheets (she doesn't make cookies much anymore). used 3 sheets of plywood like in the plans and the welder tank cap.
not great but better than nothing. i'll probably make another one out of some thicker steel--will that keep it from getting wavy when pressing the cone?
not great but better than nothing. i'll probably make another one out of some thicker steel--will that keep it from getting wavy when pressing the cone?
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torqueman2002
Well-known member
Like minds, yup!It's a Poser, or a want-a-be...................
EDIT
LOL, Like Minds.
I didn't even read you called it a "poser" till just now. The way it was snuck in there beside the Quote HTML and the .....
torqueman2002
Well-known member
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torqueman2002
Well-known member
torqueman2002
Well-known member
Not all Craftsman model 257.xxxxxx grinders are Blocks.
Here's a 1/4-HP m-257.191200 that is definitely an exception to the model prefix Block rule.
"Craftsman 1/4 hp bench grinder, model number 257-191200, in good condition. 1/2 arbor design, 6" grinding wheels (2), 115 volt 60 Hz 4.9 amp, with light - needs new bulb. Asking $60 obo."
Here's a 1/4-HP m-257.191200 that is definitely an exception to the model prefix Block rule.
"Craftsman 1/4 hp bench grinder, model number 257-191200, in good condition. 1/2 arbor design, 6" grinding wheels (2), 115 volt 60 Hz 4.9 amp, with light - needs new bulb. Asking $60 obo."
StillTooManyHobbies
Well-known member
I picked this one up at my favorite pawn shop last weekend. It's been there for a while. They plugged it in and it just buzzed, then would spin slowly if you gave it a spin to help. They saw it did not work, so they said $20 out the door. I figured you guys would know how to fix it if I couldn't, so out came the wallet.
Took the base off (no date on the base) and started checking resistances on the relay and the coils. That's when I found an open winding, started looking further and found the broken wire that probably broke when they "rewired" it for the missing switch. Fixed it and all back together now and it runs nice.
Waiting for an Ebay switch to come in that will hopefully fill the hole and work. The switch hole is taller than the dimensions in the block resources thread, about 0.746", but still about 1.373" wide. More details on the switch when I find out if it works.
So that's the story of my first "block".
Took the base off (no date on the base
) and started checking resistances on the relay and the coils. That's when I found an open winding, started looking further and found the broken wire that probably broke when they "rewired" it for the missing switch. Fixed it and all back together now and it runs nice.Waiting for an Ebay switch to come in that will hopefully fill the hole and work. The switch hole is taller than the dimensions in the block resources thread, about 0.746", but still about 1.373" wide. More details on the switch when I find out if it works.
So that's the story of my first "block".
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MercLSU
Well-known member
Picked up this 1 HP and similar period Craftsman "Industrial" stand at a sale last week. Runs well and only appears to be missing one tool rest. Definitely needs a coat of paint but I wasn't going to argue for $40.
torqueman2002
Well-known member
You bet, you ****!Picked up this 1 HP and similar period Craftsman "Industrial" stand at a sale last week. Runs well and only appears to be missing one tool rest. Definitely needs a coat of paint but I wasn't going to argue for $40.
Outlawmws
Well-known member
Merc *****!
bubinga
Well-known member
Good job!I picked this one up at my favorite pawn shop last weekend. It's been there for a while. They plugged it in and it just buzzed, then would spin slowly if you gave it a spin to help. They saw it did not work, so they said $20 out the door. I figured you guys would know how to fix it if I couldn't, so out came the wallet.
Took the base off (no date on the base
Waiting for an Ebay switch to come in that will hopefully fill the hole and work. The switch hole is taller than the dimensions in the block resources thread, about 0.746", but still about 1.373" wide. More details on the switch when I find out if it works.
So that's the story of my first "block".
That's In Nice Shape Too!
torqueman2002
Well-known member
Merc I have to add: Wide-body suckage.
I salute you!
I sure don't know about the waves.
I think I know what it was, I was too lazy to grab my good Milwaukee jigsaw from the woodshop, so I used my cheapo menards one I keep in the shop. it had a metal cutting blade on it, and I couldn't for the life of me find my spare blades, only the Milwaukee bayonet style that don't fit, so I used it anyway.
thus, the holes I cut out for the press aren't perfect and the edges are sharp. I think if I clean the relief hole where the steel sits, and use a roundover bit on the router table, it will give it a smoother transition when it presses.
also I just used 4 drywall screws to hold the sandwich together, not the bolts and nuts the plans called for, so it likely wasn't tight enough.
going to fab a better one this weekend and see how it turns out. maybe form a lip with the beedroller as well...
bczygan
Well-known member
1/2 HP on CL. $60
https://detroit.craigslist.org/okl/tls/5997033032.html
https://detroit.craigslist.org/okl/tls/5997033032.html
Tool_Master
Well-known member
torqueman2002
Well-known member
Yes.
It will need eye shields. OEMs are na. And a 534436227 Quench Tray, still available at:
http://www.ereplacementparts.com/quench-tray-p-972856.html
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/part-number/534436227/0071/358.html
I also replace the grinding wheels, because they can pass a ring test and still be degraded by moisture. I only trust stones I know the history (stored in cool, dry place), or have purchased from a reputable supplier.
IMO - It's not worth the risk, to just save a few bucks.
It's a fair price, for the grinder alone, with the non-OEM stand it is a very good deal.
Tool_Master
Well-known member
Yes.
It will need eye shields. OEMs are na. And a 534436227 Quench Tray, still available at:
http://www.ereplacementparts.com/quench-tray-p-972856.html
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/part-number/534436227/0071/358.html
I also replace the grinding wheels, because they can pass a ring test and still be degraded by moisture. I only trust stones I know the history (stored in cool, dry place), or have purchased from a reputable supplier.
IMO - It's not worth the risk, to just save a few bucks.
It's a fair price, for the grinder alone, with the non-OEM stand it is a very good deal.
Thanks Torqueman, I was planning on using this as a buffer and so was going to remove the shields to give me more room for buffing. What do you think?
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EOC_Jason
Well-known member
That's one heck of a buffer!
What do you guys think for $100?
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Umm You have not loaded it in the truck yet ?? For 100 it works and you get a stand and all the parts are there ... Hope you got it !
Cypher
torqueman2002
Well-known member
That is a very good Block for buffing. It's the 'wide-body' version that should give extra clearance between the wheels and body.
You want power for buffing, 1-HP should be just the ticket. Some people say 1800 RPM is better for buffing, the real specification is how fast (fps) the buff is traveling. I think 3600 RPM should be fine. TP Tools recommends 1800 RPM for plastics and 3600 RPM for metals and nonferrous materials.
I use this 2-speed grinder, and you can use the 3600 RPM for plastic if you are v. careful.
http://www.tptools.com/BALDOR-3and4HP-2-Speed-Bench-Mount-Buffer,6136.html?b=d*12983
If you haven't visited their website, it maybe worth a visit, they have a lot of good information and materials for buffing.
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torqueman2002
Well-known member
1/2-HP $125 Wow.
This $200 1/3-HP makes that one ^^ look cheap.
https://detroit.craigslist.org/mcb/tls/5968456199.html
OCJohn
Well-known member
LOL – almost called on that today, myself.What do you guys think for $100?
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Tool_Master
Well-known member
OCJohn, as you know LA/OC prices can be ridiculous so it's always good to check ahead of a negotiation.
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Got my " new" grinder today. 1/3 hp industrial model 397.19580. the shield's are a little bent to the side. Hammered out most of the dent in the lamp already. Should clean up really nice. Going to paint it dark shadow gray like my drill press with a honda metallic silver for the middle. Date of Jan. '66 on the bottom. 
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torqueman2002
Well-known member
rrich - nice one. All the parts are there.
I'll be looking forward to seeing the finished pictures.
Thanks. I'll make a build thread when I get to it. Hopefully within the next month.
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MercLSU
Well-known member
Let the blasphemy begin...
Outlawmws
Well-known member
My Eyes! My Eyes!
Let the blasphemy begin...
So is that eye burning color so you can find it in your shop ?
Appears to Be either Chevy Orange or Kubota not sure which lol
Cypher
torqueman2002
Well-known member
Orange, Yes!