87quest
Well-known member
Anyone here the poster for the craftsman and baldor 8" grinders on the Savannah college?
quest
quest
let's see your craftsman block grinders
- Thread starter emeraldcoupe
- Start date
torqueman2002
Well-known member
mercman,
Yes, that IS a great find!
Congratulations.
Yes, that IS a great find!
Congratulations.
cajunfirehawk
Well-known member
A huge THANK YOU goes out to Torqueman2002 aka Dr Block
for feeding my addiction, more block crack has arrived!
Dr Block is the man!
for feeding my addiction, more block crack has arrived!
Dr Block is the man!
torqueman2002
Well-known member
Sweet! It arrived a day earlier than they said it would.
It looks right at home.
Enjoy!
I just noticed, it's a Crown Top. I bet the fellas & gals on that thread might get a kick out of this brand spanking new Baby Block!
It looks right at home.
Enjoy!
I just noticed, it's a Crown Top. I bet the fellas & gals on that thread might get a kick out of this brand spanking new Baby Block!
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mercman1951
Well-known member
Thanks guys. One thing I've noted...even on level concrete, when you fire this thing up, it wants to slowly vibrate out of position. Short of 50lb lead shot bags, or bolting it to the floor...has anyone come up with other ideas to maintain placement without destroying the integrity of the stock stand? I.E. I'd hate to bolt it to a larger baseplate, add weights, etc.
Zeeman
Well-known member
Merc, are you saying the whole thing vibrates? Mine run smoooooooth, so you might have a bearing that is bad or something. There are guys on here who could tell you for sure, so I hope they will comment soon.
gnpenning
Well-known member
Have you checked to make sure the wheels are running true? ?
mercman1951
Well-known member
No I didn't do anything besides turn it on for a second to reach full operating speed....and it was vibrating clockwise on it's base. The wheels are potentially original, but didn't seem to be terribly out of true. I haven't touched it otherwise yet...but with this stand it seems very top-heavy, so I figured any little vibration might throw it off. I was planning on getting a new fine wheel and a wire wheel for it, so eventually I'll swap them out and see if it runs better. Thought it just might be a normal quirk with these unless bolted to the floor since the stand seems like it should have more weight to it at the bottom.
EOC_Jason
Well-known member
Likely it is a wheel that it out of round or at an angle. There are tutorials on how to align your wheels, it can take a little time & patience but once you get them straight they will run so smooth. Don't over-tighten them either as that can bend the washers or even crack your wheel.
Bobioz1
Well-known member
Towards the bottom of page 3 of Torquemans "whats the fuss" grinder thread there are some feet you can buy that will solve that problem. Make sure you don't have a badly unbalanced wheel first.
mercman1951
Well-known member
Thank you! When I get a chance to experiment more I'll report back. I was just looking for something that maybe I should have known off the bat should I encounter anything.
torqueman2002
Well-known member
I've placed a 3/4-HP Block on an old door mat, that keeps it from walking away.
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Shiftless
Well-known member
My half horse block on that same stand stays put on my polished concrete garage floor. New grinding wheel and new wire wheel.
See if your old grinding wheel passes the "ring" test. If it doesn't break it up into pieces and throw it away.
Many guys don't trust ancient wheels even it they do "ring true".
Dr. Block has a good idea with the rubber doormat.
See if your old grinding wheel passes the "ring" test. If it doesn't break it up into pieces and throw it away.
Many guys don't trust ancient wheels even it they do "ring true".
Dr. Block has a good idea with the rubber doormat.
EOC_Jason
Well-known member
Here's a good article with a lot of tips on how to balance your wheels:
http://www.geigerssolutions.com/Tuning-Up-a-Bench-Grinder.html
Some more tips:
Unplug the grinder while you are doing this, for safety.
I will start with rotating the outside washer 90 degrees at a time to find the truest spin. When doing this I just hand-tighten the nut (as well as when using stickers to shim). I don't tighten it down with a wrench till the end.
Always, always, always tighten the nut with the wheel the same direction. I like to make a mark or just use some writing to know what is centered & up. Because of the play in the washers & arbors and such, having the wheel in random directions will create slight shifts in direction and basically you will just be chasing your tail trying to get it aligned.
You don't have to use those little round stickers (though they aren't expensive), you can also use some masking tape if you have that handy.
I don't put paper on the side of my wheel. Instead I just spin it by hand then hold a pencil steady and mark on the edge of the blotter to find the high spots.
Just a gentle snug is all you need to tighten the wheels down. The more force you use all you are doing is compressing the blotter paper on the wheel and / or bending the washers then you will jack everything up. Under power the nuts are threaded so they are always being tightened.
http://www.geigerssolutions.com/Tuning-Up-a-Bench-Grinder.html
Some more tips:
Unplug the grinder while you are doing this, for safety.
I will start with rotating the outside washer 90 degrees at a time to find the truest spin. When doing this I just hand-tighten the nut (as well as when using stickers to shim). I don't tighten it down with a wrench till the end.
Always, always, always tighten the nut with the wheel the same direction. I like to make a mark or just use some writing to know what is centered & up. Because of the play in the washers & arbors and such, having the wheel in random directions will create slight shifts in direction and basically you will just be chasing your tail trying to get it aligned.
You don't have to use those little round stickers (though they aren't expensive), you can also use some masking tape if you have that handy.
I don't put paper on the side of my wheel. Instead I just spin it by hand then hold a pencil steady and mark on the edge of the blotter to find the high spots.
Just a gentle snug is all you need to tighten the wheels down. The more force you use all you are doing is compressing the blotter paper on the wheel and / or bending the washers then you will jack everything up. Under power the nuts are threaded so they are always being tightened.
cajunfirehawk
Well-known member
Nice Brent!
On a block related topic, I see eBay is loaded with used blocks, from 1/3 to 1hp, more than I have ever seen, mostly 1/4, 1/3, and 1/2hp, is the summer busier for blocks sales than the winter? (no, none of them are mine!)
On a block related topic, I see eBay is loaded with used blocks, from 1/3 to 1hp, more than I have ever seen, mostly 1/4, 1/3, and 1/2hp, is the summer busier for blocks sales than the winter? (no, none of them are mine!)
torqueman2002
Well-known member
I know, they come out after spring cleaning maybe.
torqueman2002
Well-known member
Nice.Here's a recent pic of two of my three block grinders. The 3rd has stones and full guards. I pulled the guards from these for ease of use. Should I ever sell them, like right before my demise, I'll put them back together.
How do you like the flap disc on the right hand one? Brand, model, and grit?
RagTopTA
Well-known member
So I scored my second blockkgrinder today. Estate sale. Was marked $120. Last day of the sale. Most everyone walked past at the price. I asked the guy running the sale about it. He said to make me a list and hed give me a total price. Added in a yost woodvise and a few other items. He told me $60 if I take the grinder table with me. Done! Works great! Cant wait to get it set up permanent and start using it. Not real sure bout the attachment. Used for blade sharpening?
Attachments
cajunfirehawk
Well-known member
You did EXCELLENT! That is a sharpening attachment on the left, if you don't want it PM me I will buy it if the price is right.
RagTopTA
Well-known member
You did EXCELLENT! That is a sharpening attachment on the left, if you don't want it PM me I will buy it if the price is right.
thanks, gonna keep it all together for now. I been messing with it figured it out, the knob moves it left and right easily. Pretty neat! whole thing comes off easy and the other perch is folded under it. gonna like it I think : )
Bobioz1
Well-known member
Smokin good deal on a clean 1 horse with base. It was easily worth the $120 asking price.
larry4406
Well-known member
you ****!!
torqueman2002
Well-known member
Zeeman
Well-known member
RagTopTA
Well-known member
thanks guys, Im pretty happy with it! Cant wait to start using it.
Rileysan
Well-known member
And yet another 3/4 HP block followed me home today. Pix are from the CL ad - which makes it look pretty beat up. The quench tray was rusty from leaving water in it, but the grinder was just really dirty but hums like new! $40
Brian
Brian
Attachments
replaced the 18/3 power cord some ***** cut off the ground plug with a 16/3. the plastic 'collar' does't fit around the thicker wire. I don't know the name of this piece but I bet the answer would be quite clear. For anyone else who has had to replace the cord, what is the best way to get this installed so the cord is tight in the hole?
Smokeshow69
Well-known member
That is way cleaner than the 1/2 hp I recently got... Looks like it would clean up well !
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
torqueman2002
Well-known member
That's a 'strain relief' that the CM manual calls a bushing, it keeps the power cord in place and prevents rubbing/shorting of the wires.
My guess is you'll have to increase the size of the hole in the grinder end frame to fit the thicker 16/3 power cord and find a suitable strain relief - Amazon, Zoro, Grainger, .... OR use heat shrink and place zip ties on either side of the end frame to keep the cord in place.
Link to HEYCO strain relief information.
https://www.heyco.com/Brochures/SR_Assembly_Guide.pdf
^^^ Are great and used a lot in industry; but, I don't know how to punch a double-D hole they use, and to install/remove they can be a ******, a special tool does help.
Good luck, let us know how you make out.
BTW - The original bushing works well with the OEM power cord or equivalent 18/3 size. If you still have it, I've found them to be high quality and maybe you can replace the male plug end.
torqueman2002
Well-known member
FYI - I added a link to the OWWM site's thread "Single phase motor diagnostic 101", on post #5, page 1, in the "Craftsman Block motor Bench Grinders - What's the Fuss (with resource information)' thread.
Link --> https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=4000536&postcount=5
Link --> https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=4000536&postcount=5
Thanks Torqueman. If I don't get it figured out in the next few weekends it's probably getting a zip tie. Do you happen to know the hole/knockout size? Maybe I can find a plastic or metal one meant to go in an electrical panel.
This particular power cord replacement was labeled as a 'dishwasher' power cord. Lowes had two, this 8ft with a right angle plug and a 6ft also 16/3 with a straight plug. at 50c difference I figured the longer one was good to go. Didn't even consider they might be different sizes.
I still have the 18/3 I was going to strip it for scrap but I will keep it for now in case I need a spare. I have a sander to do I have to measure the OD on its original hole.
This particular power cord replacement was labeled as a 'dishwasher' power cord. Lowes had two, this 8ft with a right angle plug and a 6ft also 16/3 with a straight plug. at 50c difference I figured the longer one was good to go. Didn't even consider they might be different sizes.
I still have the 18/3 I was going to strip it for scrap but I will keep it for now in case I need a spare. I have a sander to do I have to measure the OD on its original hole.
torqueman2002
Well-known member
EOC_Jason
Well-known member
For the power cord you should be able to find a 2-pc strain relief at the big box stores. I have lots just from cannibalizing old equipment.
The knockout for the quench tray in the front can be plugged with a drum-brake dust plug available from any auto parts store.
The knockout for the quench tray in the front can be plugged with a drum-brake dust plug available from any auto parts store.
EOC_Jason
Well-known member
Post them for sale on the forum here... Or on eBay... People are always looking for spare parts for those old grinders.
Saw this today for 50 dollars, no quench tray but I had to have it.
<a href="http://imgbox.com/dzjr3eIX" target="_blank"><img src="https://0-t.imgbox.com/dzjr3eIX.jpg" alt="image host"/></a> <a href="http://imgbox.com/Z7KjBCWL" target="_blank"><img src="https://2-t.imgbox.com/Z7KjBCWL.jpg" alt="image host"/></a>
<a href="http://imgbox.com/dzjr3eIX" target="_blank"><img src="https://0-t.imgbox.com/dzjr3eIX.jpg" alt="image host"/></a> <a href="http://imgbox.com/Z7KjBCWL" target="_blank"><img src="https://2-t.imgbox.com/Z7KjBCWL.jpg" alt="image host"/></a>
compunaut
Well-known member
Well, I'm in need of wheel covers, eye guards, & tool rests for my 1/2hp block... Any of those in that box?
torqueman2002
Well-known member
Yup, there you go. ^^^ I've had good luck passing on spare Block parts to forum members.
FYI - I added links to a good series of YouTube videos, in the "Craftsman Block motor Bench Grinders - What's the Fuss (with resource information)" thread.
The author, Jeremy Fielding, gives a clear explanation of the induction motor, start-up winding, and centrifugal switch - found on some Block grinders.
Electric Motors Fundamentals
039. How Motors Work For Beginners: Single Phase Induction and Shaded Pole Motors
Also, he has: Introduction To Motors Series
Page 3.
Link --> https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=4000529&postcount=3
FYI - I added links to a good series of YouTube videos, in the "Craftsman Block motor Bench Grinders - What's the Fuss (with resource information)" thread.
The author, Jeremy Fielding, gives a clear explanation of the induction motor, start-up winding, and centrifugal switch - found on some Block grinders.
Electric Motors Fundamentals
039. How Motors Work For Beginners: Single Phase Induction and Shaded Pole Motors
Also, he has: Introduction To Motors Series
Page 3.
Link --> https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=4000529&postcount=3
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