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let's see your craftsman block grinders

lafester

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bulletpruf

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All -

Last time I used my 1/2 hp round top it started smoking. It's a model 397.19591

Runs on 110/220. I had it running on 220 when I lived in Italy but switched it back and it's running on 110 now.

I can rebuild an engine or transmission with my eyes closed, but electrical stuff gives me fits. Any ideas on what to check?

Thanks,

Scott
 

Rileysan

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I started off the new year right by purchasing this 1 HP block, complete with stand, ~100 miles from home. I paid $200

Brian
 

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lafester

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Doesn't get much better then that! I just bought another 1/2 hp pre block, my first eBay grinder purchase. Should be interesting to see how they pack it.

$200 shipped

I wanted a second cast iron base and this center band and tag are really pretty nice. Considering the last base parted out sold for over $170 plus shipping I think the deal is fair. Plus, it will be delivered to my door.
 

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harley jim

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Didn't even get to see it. It went fast
I ordered the capacitor for mine last night from amazon $3.57 and $4.00 shipping. The holidays are over and it's time to get back to work. My projects are starting to pile up.

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lafester

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gone already!

Yeah it went fast... Funny thing is I picked up a pile of them last week after posting that one.

This will be my first grinder bought just to keep on a shelf... sad day for sure.
 

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lafester

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Yes, I haven't found any so I guess so. The same with the tool rest assemblys.

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Yeah I haven't had any luck either. I did pay up for a tool rest that I will no longer need though.

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jg4660

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What would guys think this worth...havn't seen it in person but this and a few other pics it looks like its in really nice original condition.

Thanks
JG
 

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lafester

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What would guys think this worth...havn't seen it in person but this and a few other pics it looks like its in really nice original condition.



Thanks

JG
Those have a wider span but no heavy duty base compared to the older 1hp models. If I wanted one I wouldn't pay more then $100 or so.

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torqueman2002

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What would guys think this worth...havn't seen it in person but this and a few other pics it looks like its in really nice original condition.

Thanks
JG
That is in great condition and complete. They don't come around that often.

A lot of Block fans think the 1-HP are the ultimate, myself included.

But honestly, they are beasts! Very powerful and I use mine for the heavy duty jobs. My go-to Block is a 3/4-HP with wire wheels, and a 1/3-HP Dayton with stones.

It's not uncommon to see the 1-HP Blocks go for $100 easily. It depends on location, mid-west and eastern states have seemingly ready supply, compared to other parts of the country.

With that 'wide track' it would make a great buffer!
 

lafester

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So what's going on with your grinder?
We need some pics to see what is smoking.

All -

Last time I used my 1/2 hp round top it started smoking. It's a model 397.19591

Runs on 110/220. I had it running on 220 when I lived in Italy but switched it back and it's running on 110 now.

I can rebuild an engine or transmission with my eyes closed, but electrical stuff gives me fits. Any ideas on what to check?

Thanks,

Scott
 

Rileysan

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So what's going on with your grinder?
We need some pics to see what is smoking.

Probably the same thing that happened to my 3/4 HP block - the capacitor stuck closed and the start windings overheated. I replaced the cap but did nothing else and it works fine.

Brian
 

tym

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Or the centrifugal switch stuck closed, if the grinder was so equipped. My 1/4 HP and I think also my more recently acquired 1/2 HP both have centrifugal switches.
 

exmaxima1

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Or the centrifugal switch stuck closed, if the grinder was so equipped. My 1/4 HP and I think also my more recently acquired 1/2 HP both have centrifugal switches.

^This

Capacitors do not “get stuck”, but switches do. The Pre-block grinders employed centrifugal switches, while the later Blocks used current-sensing relays. Both performed the same task of disconnecting the start winding when the motor got up to speed, and both have switch contacts that could “stick” if worn or dirty. A shorted capacitor could potentially overheat the start winding if it did not do its job (of providing a phase shift): the rotor does not turn or turns slowly, and the start winding stayed engaged too long. Replacing the capacitor essentially ensures that motor revs up to speed quickly before the start winding overheats. If the new cap fixes the problem the centrifugal switch or start relay are likely in working order.
 
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torqueman2002

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This is all great information. I ordered a cap from amazon it is supposed to be here friday. Then to sort out the wires

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I agree, a little late - sorry. :eek:

That model uses a cap and relay for start-up.

Relays are very reliable and I've been able to dis-assemble that style and clean the contacts.

Just in case anyone would like to see my electrical diagram of this model, here it is. NOTE: Shown for 120V.
attachment.php
 

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harley jim

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That will come in handy tomorrow thanks for posting it. I am building a pedestal to put this 3/4 on and I'm not quite sure about the mounting points on the cast pan dose anyone have a pic of theres mounted. Thanks, Jim

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McBrownie

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That will come in handy tomorrow thanks for posting it. I am building a pedestal to put this 3/4 on and I'm not quite sure about the mounting points on the cast pan dose anyone have a pic of theres mounted. Thanks, Jim

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I have mine mounted back to back with a 1/2hp on a stand with a plywood base. The cast base should have two threaded holes in it and my best recollection is that they are 5/16-18.

View media item 100036
View media item 100037
Hope that helps.
 
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harley jim

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Ok thanks. There are two threaded holes there, the 4 threaded holes are for mounting the base to the grinder. I will need to make a plate the full size of the cast base. I was trying to line up the two threaded holes and the two slotted holes but I see how it needs to be now. Thanks Bill 59ca66895f7d86bbbc5c5d6ca06a501f.jpg

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harley jim

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Also I am making an old style car rim base with a little twist to it for this grinder.I asked Dalton if it were his what color should the base be powder coated and he said it should be a darker gray to make the grinder pop. I told him to figure it out and I would bring the base to him monday. Bill knows the rest of the story: snickerd3a492e2fe5a180eb1d1d0892dd94f49.jpg7a664c06002a05db1e3f5599b3184e8b.jpg

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bulletpruf

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All -

Last time I used my 1/2 hp round top it started smoking. It's a model 397.19591

Runs on 110/220. I had it running on 220 when I lived in Italy but switched it back and it's running on 110 now.

I can rebuild an engine or transmission with my eyes closed, but electrical stuff gives me fits. Any ideas on what to check?

Thanks,

Scott

Fixed it today. Took off the bottom cover and realized that when I swapped from 220 power back to 110 (I lived in Europe for 3 years) that I forgot to hook up one wire.

Hooked it up and ended up needing to use it today to sharpen a lawnmower blade.
 

harley jim

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I made some new feet for my grinder today. I bought some science bottle stoppers and cut them about in half on a scroll saw, then I drilled them through with a 13/64" drill then I counter board them 1/4" deep with a 5/16" drill on the small end to make a recess for the machine screw. They fit great.cb13dc6fbf8ad936db464dba417436dd.jpg68bcc24644a4986c4ff2265bfec14fe3.jpg91d72c2ac4751963af689a191f61cd75.jpg

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lafester

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Enough with the easy stuff... lets see the tool rests and end covers.

I made some new feet for my grinder today. I bought some science bottle stoppers and cut them about in half on a scroll saw, then I drilled them through with a 13/64" drill then I counter board them 1/4" deep with a 5/16" drill on the small end to make a recess for the machine screw. They fit great.

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harley jim

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I'm getting there, hopefully they will get done tomorrow. I went to custom craft mechanical today and picked up a piece of stainless steel and a chunk of 3/4" bar stock for the tool rests, had to sit and bs with the boys for a while, I was the shop foreman there for a few years. The stainless is a little harder to work with but will look nice. Thanks Bill412cd747e1e7a7d1cd3a15aac70dc3ae.jpg7d018e43fe242614246768554be72b3b.jpgcb977916e00f2801033425e5da1bcfa3.jpg
Just to remember where it started
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harley jim

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That Label was given to me by a friend here on GJ, Bill goes by McBrownie and he said that another member here made them and he obtained one and didn't use it so he gifted it to me. Maybe he can tell you who made it. It is a great label.

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McBrownie

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That Label was given to me by a friend here on GJ, Bill goes by McBrownie and he said that another member here made them and he obtained one and didn't use it so he gifted it to me. Maybe he can tell you who made it. It is a great label.

JG,

I had to look back through my PM's. I got that from GJ member Pupuhd about 4 years ago. I never got around to putting it on mine and, when I saw the bad shape that Jim's grinder was in, I had to donate it to the cause. I'm not sure if Pupuhd is still making those, but I'm pretty sure that MattBlast is making some that are just as nice.

HJ,

The grinder is looking great! :thumbup:
 

exmaxima1

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JG,

I had to look back through my PM's. I got that from GJ member Pupuhd about 4 years ago. I never got around to putting it on mine and, when I saw the bad shape that Jim's grinder was in, I had to donate it to the cause. I'm not sure if Pupuhd is still making those, but I'm pretty sure that MattBlast is making some that are just as nice.

If anyone works something out with that same label, I’d like one as well.
 

lafester

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Matt said he would have metal ones in another month or so, or you can get a sticker now.

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