let's see your craftsman block grinders

[Bigblockyeti]

This seems like a good deal to me but I can't really tell which one it is and based on the sellers description, I'm betting they would be of little help too.
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/702665667338752

I'm typically looking for Rockwell, Milwaukee, Wisotta or Baldor grinders but this came up and might be worth a look, any ideas on what it might be?

 

[softailgarage]

For $25 I would be all over that.

 

[loganb]

That looks very clean, what's the date code?
Did you post up your other goodies?

Believe this is the date code as requested...first time I've opened it up! And to be honest other than when I bought it about 3 years ago to test it, haven't used it at all

View media item 107328
Sent from The Garage Journal mobile app

 

[softailgarage]

Believe this is the date code as requested...first time I've opened it up! And to be honest other than when I bought it about 3 years ago to test it, haven't used it at all

View media item 107328
Sent from The Garage Journal mobile app

Usually the date is stamped in black ink on the bottom plate, just turn over.

 

[bagged89s10]

Guys I still have these parts and I’m willing to sell all 4 pieces for for $10 total + shipping for anyone who might need them. Total weight is probably 10lbs once packaged. They are from a 1/3hp 397.19391

They need to be repainted.

 

[loganb]

Usually the date is stamped in black ink on the bottom plate, just turn over.

Ok, that's what I thought as well from a quick scan here but here's what I've got:

View media item 107343

Pulling the feet off to get to the inside of the base plate gets me this(after wiped down):

View media item 107344

 

[Old Radar]

Ok, that's what I thought as well from a quick scan here but here's what I've got:

View media item 107343

Pulling the feet off to get to the inside of the base plate gets me this(after wiped down):

View media item 107344

Logan--Much like your posting here in the block thread, you're looking in the wrong place. Block grinders have their manufacture date stamped on the bottom of the undercarriage shield.

Pre-Block grinders have their manufacture date stamped on the metal plate affixed to the front of the grinder. Check the number just to the left of "MOD" and under the UL logo. You should find the month and year your Pre-Block was made.

 

[jerryd67]

Guys I still have these parts and I’m willing to sell all 4 pieces for for $10 total + shipping for anyone who might need them. Total weight is probably 10lbs once packaged. They are from a 1/3hp 397.19391

They need to be repainted.

Bagged, sent you a PM.

 

[JoCoSawdust]

Ok, that's what I thought as well from a quick scan here but here's what I've got:

Looks like 55 to me but hard to tell from that pic.

 

[loganb]

Ok, that's what I thought as well from a quick scan here but here's what I've got:

Looks like 55 to me but hard to tell from that pic.

M4 53

Sent from The Garage Journal mobile app

 

[tricky]

Hi there. Im new and hope this is the right spot. 70's era CM 397-19340 block bench grinder. Extremely quiet when on in my opinion. I love it. I've read many pieces of information on these threads. Thanks to all.

 

[cmccuist1]

That's a beauty. Did you do the paint?

 

[tricky]

Thank you!! I did. I kept it flat. I like it personally. Different but where it should be I think

 

[torqueman2002]

Nice paint choice.

 

[exmaxima1]

Hi there. Im new and hope this is the right spot. 70's era CM 397-19340 block bench grinder. Extremely quiet when on in my opinion. I love it. I've read many pieces of information on these threads. Thanks to all.

FYI, you have the eyeshields mounted upside down. Nice job on the paint.

 

[exmaxima1]

How would you decipher the date on the bottom plate of this block grinder? No way it's a 1962

 

[lafester]

Yeah that is definitely not a date code. Should be a late 70s model.

How would you decipher the date on the bottom plate of this block grinder? No way it's a 1962

 

[torqueman2002]

I'm not positive, either.

Here's a capture of some Block models and their mfg. dates.

If I'm not mistaken, the format is mm dd yy s(hift).

Looks like the leading 0 in the month and/or day is left off in some cases, the dd is left off completely in some cases, the shift A, B is left off in most cases.

So, to the OP's question - "How would you decipher the date on the bottom plate of this block grinder? No way it's a 1962."

"6 22 4 B"

The above chart may not reflect all spaces the original bottom date stamps might have had. So, the m-397.19441 date stamps might be: "6 13 4 A" and "6 18 8 A".

What if the leading 7 was left off of the year, lending 06 13 74 and 06 18 78 shift A.

That could mean then, the OP's Block would be 06 22 74 shift B.
I'm going to re-sort the above chart by mfg. date, to see if that helps.


Here's the chart above, sorted by mfg. date.

 

[stonesfan68]

So how are y'all cleaning off the old paint and grime if you don't have a media blaster at home?

 

[Outlawmws]

Simple Green is a great paint remover and de-greaser.

 

[ssdave]

I'd started a thread on this, but then saw Outlaw had brought this topical thread to the top, so posting here:

Found this a few years back at a yard sale. Cleanest one I think I have ever seen, even the original manual. Hasn't seen much use, and only a few times since I've owned it. I'm surprised the shields are still clear, after 50 years or so.

 

[LesserSon]

That sure is clean, Dave. Nice to have the manual. I just was on Sears Parts, and didn’t see a pdf for it.
I picked up the same model (little higher serial no) today on a stand, for $60. It was rode hard and put away wet, but runs well all the same. It’s all there (took the quench tray off so I wouldn’t drop it crossing the parking lot), except for the gooseneck lamp. But in an odd coincidence, I had bought a loose gooseneck ($.50) just minutes before! Plus, I’ve got the paint and rubber bushings somewhere, so this will be a restoration project in the months ahead.

 

[lafester]

How the hell do you break off a gooseneck lamp?
Good buy though with the stand.

 

[exmaxima1]

How the hell do you break off a gooseneck lamp?
.......

I would think long term vibration will eventually crack it ...

 

[compunaut]

These blocks don't have much vibration.

 

[Outlawmws]

If it were to break from vibration, I would expect it to be where the threads or shoulder is machined, as there are stress risers there. The flex part doesn't have that.

 

[LesserSon]

If the removal were intentional, it would make sense to disconnect the leads and unscrew it from the base, saving it like the other one I bought. I guess it could be intentional vandalism.
I think unintentional breakage would have to be a 2-stage operation:
1. Reposition the lamp beyond its limits, so the sheathing splits along the coil, hanging limp.
2. Repeat, until the coil shears from metal fatigue, or intentionally cut it.
The wires would still have to be cut or disconnected.
I’ll have to look more closely for more clues.

EDIT: I didn’t know how goosenecks were constructed. Inside the sheathing, there’s a steel coil, I assume heat-treated to be a spring. On this one, there’s a pretty clear failure. Bad spot in the steel, I think. Once that broke, it would have just flopped at that point and wouldn’t have been long before the sheathing failed, too. The PO must have just cut the wire off flush, seen that the motor still turned and left it the way I got it.

 

[Old Radar]

These blocks don't have much vibration.

I completely agree. Even when the wheels are not properly balanced the resultant vibration is not enough to wear the base of the lamp to the failure point. When I found my Pre-Block, it had two heavy washers with 3/4" holes loose on one 5/8" shaft. They threw the grinder seriously out of balance but the vibration was still not enough to affect the lamp support.

 

[exmaxima1]

If it were to break from vibration, I would expect it to be where the threads or shoulder is machined, as there are stress risers there. The flex part doesn't have that.

I was just going by the looks of the fractured part---it sure looks like a fatigue crack, and not a cut. Maybe it was whipping around in transport (???).

 

[torqueman2002]

Maybe it was used as a handle to move it around, 1 too many times ?? .

 

[sk farmer]

i picked this up at the pawnie for 30 bucks yesterday. all the parts and original stones yet.

does anyone have a source for a repro decal?

 

[Old Radar]

i picked this up at the pawnie for 30 bucks yesterday. all the parts and original stones yet.

does anyone have a source for a repro decal?

Mattblast is your man. Here's his thread:

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=356439

 

[sk farmer]

thanks old radar. i seriously need some help'

i don't have much to go on. is that the model or serial number.

the grinder is in great shape but the decal has just disappeared.

 

[LesserSon]

That’s a serial number. I notice the SN ink is different (apparently it is not photo-reactive) from the rest of the ink.
Yours looks a lot like ssdave’s and my posts, though not necessarily the same model. Dave’s SN seems lighter than the rest of the text, so maybe it was printed more lightly, rather than faded?
No lamp?

 

[Old Radar]

That's the serial number. Take a look on both Matt's thread and this one to see where on readable labels the model number is located. Looking back just a few posts to ssdave's post #12621, it looks like the model number is located one line up from the serial number and is centered on the label. His is a 1/2 hp. 1/3 hp labels may be different.

Once you know where to look, try magnification and different lighting (to include colored lighting) to see if you can read anything.

Edit: LS was quicker on the draw!

 

[sk farmer]

i was out to the shop this evening and tried different lights at different angles with not much success. i will more than likely try a magnifying lens in the morning.

the paint and the grinder are in good to very good condition but everything on that label just disappeared. somebody either wiped it with something that took it off or it sat in front of a window and light faded the label but didn't damage the paint.

 

[ssdave]

....

 

[javie]

Picked up this beauty last weekend from a seasoned gentleman probably in his early-mid 60's. He said it was his Grandfather's and he was moving to the coast to a condo and not taking his toys. This one is dated from 1949, not sure of the M3 manufacturing code on the serial number but the motor is a Packard (115.6965).

It is in fantastic shape with the original paint, unbroken glass shields with aluminum frames, stainless steel hardware and that **** striped aluminum stator cover - they just don't make them like this anymore. I'm guessing here but it easily weighs double what my 3/4-hp block grinder does. Everything works on it, including the little lamps in the wheel guards. FrankLee was kind enough to school me on the bearings, it takes a few minutes to spin down but there is absolutely no vibration, wobble, or for that matter, noise. All this for a mere $40.

 

[FrankLee]

Picked up this beauty last weekend from a seasoned gentleman probably in his early-mid 60's. He said it was his Grandfather's and he was moving to the coast to a condo and not taking his toys. This one is dated from 1949, not sure of the M3 manufacturing code on the serial number but the motor is a Packard (115.6965).

It is in fantastic shape with the original paint, unbroken glass shields with aluminum frames, stainless steel hardware and that **** striped aluminum stator cover - they just don't make them like this anymore. I'm guessing here but it easily weighs double what my 3/4-hp block grinder does. Everything works on it, including the little lamps in the wheel guards. FrankLee was kind enough to school me on the bearings, it takes a few minutes to spin down but there is absolutely no vibration, wobble, or for that matter, noise. All this for a mere $40.

Wow! You weren't kidding, that is a beauty!

 

[Banjorear]

I'd started a thread on this, but then saw Outlaw had brought this topical thread to the top, so posting here:

Found this a few years back at a yard sale. Cleanest one I think I have ever seen, even the original manual. Hasn't seen much use, and only a few times since I've owned it. I'm surprised the shields are still clear, after 50 years or so.

I have the same one, minus the dipping tray. Mine also had the original stones that weren't used. It seemed to be brand new. I got it 2 years ago for $40 at an antique tractor show. Absolutely love it! Works really well.