let's see your craftsman block grinders

[exmaxima1]

I don't believe that is a capacitor start motor--only the 1/3 and 1/2 hp models were cap start. And caps usually have just 2 terminals. Can you attach a pic?

 

[LesserSon]

Not saying that is the problem, but the 3-prong thing sounds like a relay. I have not had to replace one, but tried to track down the manufacturer once (apparently swallowed up in corporate mergers). It seems there ought to be a replacement chart, but I haven’t seen one. If you do find a functional replacement, I’d like to know more.

 

[exmaxima1]

The pre-blocks used a centrifugal switch---no relay. Maybe an previous owner did some mods.

 

[torqueman2002]

Looks great. I have one, a 397.19501 C2110 that used to belong to my father. I used it for years until it stopped rotating and only hummed. I figured the start capacitor failed and opened the bottom (dated 10/16/1962) to find the three-prong rectangular block which I assume must be the cap as that's the only component besides the switch. Where can I get one or what is it's capacitance value? I'd like to return this to service! Thank you,

HobbyDad

I looked for pictures of that model, without luck. However, member firemanast posted one Mar 12, 2015. https://www.garagejournal.com/forum...n-block-grinders.157794/page-118#post-4711225

Don't know if it's possible to track that one down.

BTW - the 1/4HP one's I have only have a power switch and a centrifugal switch in the RH end bell, like exmaxima1 said.

 

[HobbyDad]

It's a 1/4 HP model, C2110. Not the best pics of the device but three-prong. It's original, the mounting rivets have not been disturbed. Dual capacitors are a thing, so with one terminal connected to the neutral (white) I was thinking this was a capacitor as there doesn't appear to be room for one elsewhere. Could be a relay though. The embossed logo is "RBM."

 

[Hoorn]

Picked up this gem for $100. Estate sales rock.

 

[HobbyDad]

Three more pics of mine, showing the inside. From the power cable hot, to the switch, then up into the motor and two wires, red and black, coming out to the mystery device. Power cable neutral (white) connected to the device as well. The motor is free to turn but only hums.

 

[biowrench]

Picked up this gem for $100. Estate sales rock.

The race is to the swift.

 

[Rod N]

Can anyone tell me about this grinder? Guy wants $100.

So the guys agrees to $90.00, but can only meet after 6:00. I agree and next day tell him I'll be there. Crickets after multiply emails. Get my wife to email him and he says not for sale.
It's taken me a few days to not be so pissed!!!

 

[Hoorn]

So the guys agrees to $90.00, but can only meet after 6:00. I agree and next day tell him I'll be there. Crickets after multiply emails. Get my wife to email him and he says not for sale.
It's taken me a few days to not be so pissed!!!

Welcome to the world of OfferUp/CL/MP!
Things like that or worse happen to me monthly.
I flip/restore/part out a fairly decent amount of tools. As an example I've had over 35 drill presses alone through my workshop just this year, not to mention all the vintage tool boxes, belt sanders, band saws, etc. Getting burned or having a guy figure out that the Walker Turner bandsaw I'm driving over to pick up for $150 is worth far more doesn't upset me anymore. Its just people.
We here on GJ would like to think we all behave in an honorable way and therefore everyone else should, but with vintage tool sales, it's a war zone out there.

 

[Rod N]

I hear you Hoorn!
When things like that happen to me it makes give others respect even more so. Makes me sleep better.

 

[torqueman2002]

Three more pics of mine, showing the inside. From the power cable hot, to the switch, then up into the motor and two wires, red and black, coming out to the mystery device. Power cable neutral (white) connected to the device as well. The motor is free to turn but only hums.

Well, I'll be a blue nosed gopher!

That is a 1/4HP with a 3-terminal relay. These simple machines keep surprising me with there their variations.

Try Sensata/Klixon for a replacement. https://www.sensata.com/products/motor-protectors/4cr-motor-starting-relay

 

[exmaxima1]

Well, I'll be a blue nosed gopher!

That is a 1/4HP with a 3-terminal relay. These simple machines keep surprising me with there variations.

Try Sensata/Klixon for a replacement. https://www.sensata.com/products/motor-protectors/4cr-motor-starting-relay

TM, I'm shocked as well. But I don't see any place where it was mounted. I'm thinking a previous owner may have made a mod to that grinder. I can tell you my 1/3hp pre-block does not have a relay and it was a challenge to replace the bearings with the centrifugal switch in the way.

 

[torqueman2002]

TM, I'm shocked as well. But I don't see any place where it was mounted. I'm thinking a previous owner may have made a mod to that grinder. I can tell you my 1/3hp pre-block does not have a relay and it was a challenge to replace the bearings with the centrifugal switch in the way.

Very likely; hadn't considered that. Maybe the OP can confirm if the centrifugal switch is still there or if there are signs of it - mounting holes in the RH bell end.

I'm surprised the relay could be bad, they are very reliable.

 

[HobbyDad]

Fixed. The mystery device riveted to the base plate of my C2110 is a relay. Opening it up I found that the gray arm under the coil was stuck but a little nudge freed it to close the contacts. A squirt of Tri-Flow on the pivot and it's completely free.

What I didn't know was that the relay cover is held on by the screw which had a blob of red paint on it, so I could have opened the relay without drilling out the two mounting rivets. It's back together and working, but next is replacing the power cable. The insulation is cracked through at the plug and at the cable grommet on the rear of the grinder. Going to a three-prong cable and grounding the chassis.

 

[FrankLee]

Fixed. The mystery device riveted to the base plate of my C2110 is a relay. Opening it up I found that the gray arm under the coil was stuck but a little nudge freed it to close the contacts. A squirt of Tri-Flow on the pivot and it's completely free.

What I didn't know was that the relay cover is held on by the screw which had a blob of red paint on it, so I could have opened the relay without drilling out the two mounting rivets. It's back together and working, but next is replacing the power cable. The insulation is cracked through at the plug and at the cable grommet on the rear of the grinder. Going to a three-prong cable and grounding the chassis.

Thanks for posting the follow-up and the photos!

 

[torqueman2002]

Another Block saved! Well done.

 

[Old Radar]

What I didn't know was that the relay cover is held on by the screw which had a blob of red paint on it, so I could have opened the relay without drilling out the two mounting rivets.

I hate it when that happens!! Good work on the save!

 

[Jota21]

Just got home with this one from FB marketplace - a lady cleaning out her grandfather's garage. $40! Anybody have any guesses on it's weight? Looks like cast iron filled with concrete, and i think it would surely break our bathroom scale. Also - 7" wheels seems less common to come by than 6 or 8. Where is best to buy them? The ones on it now are down to 6 1/4, and pretty uneven. Any advice for a rookie? Is it OK to run 6" wheels on this? Is there an easy way to true the wheels up? Also, i was only able to get the wheel off the arbor with an impact gun. couldn't find any sort of lock on the gear box to prevent the wheels from turning while using a wrench. I know that isn't the proper way, so what's the trick? Any other must-haves, or words of caution besides the obvious? I'd like to make a 31* jig for sharpening drill bits. Was figuring i might make it out of wood and hot glue it to the flat tool rest. Think it'd make more sense to put the tool rest at 31* vertically? 300+ pages is a bit more than i have time to read... Thanks in advance.

 

[FrankLee]

....

Also, i was only able to get the wheel off the arbor with an impact gun. couldn't find any sort of lock on the gear box to prevent the wheels from turning while using a wrench. I know that isn't the proper way, so what's the trick?

....

Jam nuts.

removing grinder flange nuts
Procedure:

1. use a wrench on each arbor nut
2. remove the right side nut first
3. remove the outer flange and stone
4. thread the jam nut and the original nut back onto the right side arbor and tighten them against each other
5. use wrenches on the right side outer jam nut and on the left side nut
6. remove the left side nut
7. remove the outer flange and stone
8. loosen and remove the jam nuts from the right side arbor

 

[lafester]

Just got home with this one from FB marketplace - a lady cleaning out her grandfather's garage. $40! Anybody have any guesses on it's weight? Looks like cast iron filled with concrete, and i think it would surely break our bathroom scale. Also - 7" wheels seems less common to come by than 6 or 8. Where is best to buy them? The ones on it now are down to 6 1/4, and pretty uneven. Any advice for a rookie? Is it OK to run 6" wheels on this? Is there an easy way to true the wheels up? Also, i was only able to get the wheel off the arbor with an impact gun. couldn't find any sort of lock on the gear box to prevent the wheels from turning while using a wrench. I know that isn't the proper way, so what's the trick? Any other must-haves, or words of caution besides the obvious? I'd like to make a 31* jig for sharpening drill bits. Was figuring i might make it out of wood and hot glue it to the flat tool rest. Think it'd make more sense to put the tool rest at 31* vertically? 300+ pages is a bit more than i have time to read... Thanks in advance.

Thats a nice pedestal... is it really filled with concrete? I think I would have to clean it out.

 

[msharley]

Picked up this gem for $100. Estate sales rock.

Hey H Man,

Swell looking Cornwell box, too!

Later, Mark

 

[Hoorn]

Hey H Man,

Swell looking Cornwell box, too!

Later, Mark

Thank you brother! It had some humble beginnings, I found it on OfferUp for $40 looking like this:





...and each drawer was filled with drywall dust too. I asked the PO what the heck happened. He said his (soon to be ex- ) wife spray painted it and filled the drawers after "an incident" lol.

...and here it is after 3 days of steel wool, simple green, cleaner wax and finish wax.

I know it's apples and oranges, but this box forced me to sell my red and gray Craftsman of similar size. The difference in drawer quality and the weight that I could put inside while still smoothly and easily opening and closing was night and day. I'm still a big vintage Craftsman guy, but their boxes don't work for me. I'm sure both boxes came from the same place -Waterloo, but spec'ed out totally different.

 

[Evtron]

Before and after





Still need to paint the bulb cover and add arbor spacers for the wheel brushes.

 

[torqueman2002]

Just got home with this one from FB marketplace - a lady cleaning out her grandfather's garage. $40! Anybody have any guesses on it's weight? Looks like cast iron filled with concrete, and i think it would surely break our bathroom scale. The grinder is cast aluminum alloy. The base looks like a cast iron GA16 Baldor base (~38" & 61lbs) Also - 7" wheels seems less common to come by than 6 or 8. Where is best to buy them? The ones on it now are down to 6 1/4, and pretty uneven. Any advice for a rookie? Is it OK to run 6" wheels on this? Try Grainger, Zoro, Amazon for 7" stones/wheels. Toss the old ones, just to be sure. Is there an easy way to true the wheels up? Also, i was only able to get the wheel off the arbor with an impact gun. couldn't find any sort of lock on the gear box to prevent the wheels from turning while using a wrench. I know that isn't the proper way, so what's the trick? I use an impact to remove the nuts and Franklee's meathod. Note: the LH arbor nut is left hand threaded! Any other must-haves, or words of caution besides the obvious? I'd like to make a 31* jig for sharpening drill bits. Was figuring i might make it out of wood and hot glue it to the flat tool rest. Think it'd make more sense to put the tool rest at 31* vertically? 300+ pages is a bit more than i have time to read... Thanks in advance.

Nice find.

Also, see my comments in RED above.

Another way to remove the arbor nuts is to 'jam' a piece of wood between the wheel and wheel guard, while removing the nut. To reinstall, just hold the wheel by hand and tighten the nut, the spinning of the arbor when powered up tends to get the nut sufficiently tight. Be sure to use the OEM flanges and the paper blotter that comes with grinding wheels.

 

[msharley]

Thank you brother! It had some humble beginnings, I found it on OfferUp for $40 looking like this:





...and each drawer was filled with drywall dust too. I asked the PO what the heck happened. He said his (soon to be ex- ) wife spray painted it and filled the drawers after "an incident" lol.

...and here it is after 3 days of steel wool, simple green, cleaner wax and finish wax.

I know it's apples and oranges, but this box forced me to sell my red and gray Craftsman of similar size. The difference in drawer quality and the weight that I could put inside while still smoothly and easily opening and closing was night and day. I'm still a big vintage Craftsman guy, but their boxes don't work for me. I'm sure both boxes came from the same place -Waterloo, but spec'ed out totally different.

Hey H Man,

Wow!

You did a great "clean up" job!

Those were great old boxes!

Later, Mark

 

[jonshonda]

I've got a near mint 1/2hp owners manual if anyone is looking.

 

[jtuttle4]

Picked up this 1/2hp beauty mounted on a decent pedestal yesterday for $75, along with a smoking deal on a Wilton vise. I have another of the same model 1/2hp block grinder that’s I’ve had for several years now. That one is missing the lamp, right side outer cover, and has a broken right inner cover. I’ve been watching for parts but either miss out or they are asking more than I wanted to spend. When this one popped up the other day, I jumped on it. This must have seen little use, runs so smoothly and looks to be original wheels with little wear.

I’ll probably pull the guards on my old one to run a buffing wheel setup. So if anyone needs a good left side under/outer cover for a 7” let me know.

The one on the pedestal is the new purchase and the one on the table is my old block grinder.

 

[drivesitfar]

This is one of the best threads on GJ and I always like reading about these great old grinders. That said I’d like to wish all of you a very Happy Thanksgiving and hope you all at least get to talk to family even if you can’t be with them in person.

 

[stonesfan68]

Picked up this 1/2hp beauty mounted on a decent pedestal yesterday for $75, along with a smoking deal on a Wilton vise. I have another of the same model 1/2hp block grinder that’s I’ve had for several years now. That one is missing the lamp, right side outer cover, and has a broken right inner cover. I’ve been watching for parts but either miss out or they are asking more than I wanted to spend. When this one popped up the other day, I jumped on it. This must have seen little use, runs so smoothly and looks to be original wheels with little wear.

I’ll probably pull the guards on my old one to run a buffing wheel setup. So if anyone needs a good left side under/outer cover for a 7” let me know.

The one on the pedestal is the new purchase and the one on the table is my old block grinder.

jtuttle4-

I have these parts available. I'll send you a PM.

 

[cmccuist1]

I need some help from the Blockhead community. My 3/4 horse is hard starting. It groans when I flip the switch. Once it get going it’s pretty smooth. There are no start capacitors, so that’s not it.

Also, the right side wheel wobbles a bit. I swapped grinding wheels side for side and it still does it. The left side runs true.

Any help/guidance is appreciated as always.

 

[lafester]

I would imagine the wobbly wheel is the problem. Is the arbor bent?

 

[cmccuist1]

The arbor doesn’t seem to be bent. I’ll put a dial indicator on there tomorrow and check it.

 

[exmaxima1]

If the arbor isn't bent, then check the flanges. Lots of times they get overtightened and distorted at the contact area on the arbor shoulder

 

[cmccuist1]

The flange is bent. Good call. Could that be the cause of the hard starting?

 

[torqueman2002]

Possibly. How does it start w/o the stones/flanges/nuts?

 

[exmaxima1]

The flange is bent. Good call. Could that be the cause of the hard starting?

Maybe it's just a normal starting behavior for that model? It's probably the biggest split-phase grinder they made, and 7-inch wheels take some oomph to get them going. The fact that it starts at all infers that the windings are good and the relay is working. Being a single voltage model, the windings might be series configured. In that case it would rule out the chance of 1/2 the start winding being damaged. Use it awhile and consider giving the wheels a spin when you turn it on----I've done that for years with my Baldor grinder (no cap-start) when I added a Multitool belt adapter to it.

 

[MightyMopar]

Just joined a little bit ago, and ended up with a NIB 1/2 horse block grinder …. . Paid too much but tired of getting low quality imported equipment.

 

[Catcher1984]

I need some help from the Blockhead community. My 3/4 horse is hard starting. It groans when I flip the switch. Once it get going it’s pretty smooth. There are no start capacitors, so that’s not it.

Also, the right side wheel wobbles a bit. I swapped grinding wheels side for side and it still does it. The left side runs true.

Any help/guidance is appreciated as always.

It might be the start winding thing, it looks like a small rectangular box. Acts like a start capacitor. Circled in red in the attached picture. They’re usually very cheap to replace <$10.

And the wheel wobble is probably unrelated to that starting problem. It’s most likely a bent shaft, I would open it up to check if it’s straight. Use a press to get it back square.

 

[cmccuist1]

Thanks catcher. Will check it out. I hope it’s not the shaft causing the wobble.