let's see your craftsman block grinders

[torqueman2002]

Thanks catcher. Will check it out. I hope it’s not the shaft causing the wobble.

How does it start w/o the stones/flanges/nuts?

Also, the "the start winding thing", is the start-up relay. It's function is to Open the start-up coil circuit (thin windings) at about 75% run speed. It is used instead of a centrifugal switch that would be located in the RH end bell.

The capacitor is used in the CM Block grinders to shift the electromotive magnetic field phase, as an aide in starting.

I am very interested to know how the grinder starts without the stones/flanges/nuts.

Also, the grinder should spin freely and easily by hand - with the power off.

 

[Fergiebear13]

Hello everyone. I'm new to posting here but have gained a lot of knowledge by reading all the posts. I have a Craftsman 1/3 hp block grinder model 397.19580. I just got done restoring it and I'm in need of help. The motor windings look in great condition after cleaning all the dust, the wires are in their correct terminals, the body is lined up correctly, and I was even lucky enough to find a new correct relay. After installing the relay I still have to jumpstart the wheels by slightly turning them by hand. Can anyone think of a reason it is not spinning up on its own other than the fact that it's old? I'm out of ideas...thanks in advance for your help.

 

[torqueman2002]

Hello everyone. I'm new to posting here but have gained a lot of knowledge by reading all the posts. I have a Craftsman 1/3 hp block grinder model 397.19580. I just got done restoring it and I'm in need of help. The motor windings look in great condition after cleaning all the dust, the wires are in their correct terminals, the body is lined up correctly, and I was even lucky enough to find a new correct relay. After installing the relay I still have to jumpstart the wheels by slightly turning them by hand. Can anyone think of a reason it is not spinning up on its own other than the fact that it's old? I'm out of ideas...thanks in advance for your help.

Welcome to GJ and CM Block grinder ownership.

Nice looking restore. You may want to contact member mattblast for a replacement machine tag.

Have you tried starting the grinder with out the wheels. flanges, and arbor nuts? If it still needs a 'jump start', try re-aligning the coil assembly.

Here's a wiring diagram for reference.

 

[exmaxima1]

Hello everyone. I'm new to posting here but have gained a lot of knowledge by reading all the posts. I have a Craftsman 1/3 hp block grinder model 397.19580. I just got done restoring it and I'm in need of help. The motor windings look in great condition after cleaning all the dust, the wires are in their correct terminals, the body is lined up correctly, and I was even lucky enough to find a new correct relay. After installing the relay I still have to jumpstart the wheels by slightly turning them by hand. Can anyone think of a reason it is not spinning up on its own other than the fact that it's old? I'm out of ideas...thanks in advance for your help.

You might not have the motor assembled exactly right. Try loosening the 3 long bolts and tapping the housing a bit and see if it will start on its own. Sometimes there is enough mis-alignment to bind the bearings and the start winding can't overcome it.
Also, are you sure you put the spring washer behind the bearing in correctly? That will definitely stall the grinder.

 

[Fergiebear13]

Thank you both for the quick reply. I did wonder about the spring washers because even though i took a pic of how they came out I think I may have turned it around before I took the pic.lol. I have them in as the spring part toward the bearing and the flat side toward the wool washer. Is this correct? The pic is when I first took everything apart.

 

[exmaxima1]

Yes, it is correct

 

[Fergiebear13]

Yes, it is correct

Ok. I took the entire thing back apart. Put it back together exactly how it should, tapped everything back in alignment, plugged it in, and it still wont spin on its own. I looked for broken wires on the coil everything looks brand new. I guess I'll just have to live with jumpstarting it.

 

[torqueman2002]

Yup, it's correct. On mine, it was on the LH side end bell, and the rotor has the cooling fins on the LH side as well.


Here is a shot of how the wiring on mine is done.


Question: Why did you replace the relay? In my experience, they are very robust and do not fail very often. In the dozens of Blocks I have repaired or restored, I haven't found one relay that failed.

If it were mine, I'd put the original relay back and retry. I'd also verify all electrical connections are good. Just a note about the wire used for the windings - it is covered in a varnish type insulation coating, which must be removed to make a good connection.

Good luck. Oh, have you had a chance to check the resistance of the windings yet?

 

[Fergiebear13]

Thanks. No I haven't had a chance to because electrical goes over my head. I have a multimeter that has different settings for resistance, but I'm not sure how to use it.lol. When I do figure it out, what should the numbers look like?

 

[torqueman2002]

Thanks. No I haven't had a chance to because electrical goes over my head. I have a multimeter that has different settings for resistance, but I'm not sure how to use it.lol. When I do figure it out, what should the numbers look like?

The resistance figures are in the table in post #13,083, above. The winding/coil terminals, must be disconnected from the components for testing: switch, relay, lamp, ...

There are a number of tutorials for multimeter basics on the Tube. Unfortunately, the one I saved is broken.
Try looking here. https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=how+to+use+a+multimeter

 

[Fergiebear13]

Well I thank you for your help, but I think it's done for. I spun the wheels earlier to jump start it with the wheels on because it spun up jump starting it without them after I put everything together again but it just spun really slowly and wouldn't pick up speed even though i was helping it along. It did that for a few seconds and then started smoking white smoke. It ran perfectly fine last night when the wheels were hand spun so idk. Very frustrating, but I guess I couldn't save it after all.

 

[torqueman2002]

"... I think it's done for."
Sorry my friend, that is not good news.

I believe the thin wired start-up winding has overheated and burned open. EDIT One thing - it's evident that the start-up coil was getting power at start up. Which mean the relay did the first part of it's job. the second and criticl part is to open the start circuit so it does not let the magic smoke out. This happens when the rotor reaches about 75% running speed.

You might be able to find and repair the section that is burnt, but unless we can find the root cause of it's slow start, it will happen again.

I'd say send it on to me, but with a burnt winding I would not have any way of fixing it for you. Sorry.

It's in nice shape, you could part-it-out in the classified section and/or on eBay.


Best of luck.

 

[Smokeetr]

If gave you the model numbers and s/n would you be able to tell me what year it was made. No numbers on the bottom

 

[Smokeetr]

I’m new here and I’m pretty sure I’m no posting correctly…sorry

 

[lafester]

I’m new here and I’m pretty sure I’m no posting correctly…sorry

You can only guess by looking though the catalogs. This one would be after the 1hp came out and they gimped the 3/4.

 

[Smokeetr]

I also have an 8” 3/4 hp from the 70’s

 

[torqueman2002]

If gave you the model numbers and s/n would you be able to tell me what year it was made. No numbers on the bottom

After a quick search I found a pdf copy of an Owners Manual for a 3/4-HP model 397.19350, Part No. 22013274 C3566 Printed 1/78.

In the Sears Craftsman 1977-78 Power And Hand Tools Catalog (16306.pdf). There is a 3/4-HP Block w/ 7" wheels, but with a *********** switch.


In the Sears Craftsman 1978-79 Power And Hand Tools Catalog (16540.pdf). There is a 3/4-HP Block w/ 7" wheels, also with a *********** switch.


I'm not sure when Sears started selling 3/4-HP Blocks w/ 8" wheels, but I have 10 listed in my spread sheet.

For Owners Manual and other Publication Reprints --> http://vintagemachinery.org/mfgindex/detail.aspx?id=222&tab=3

For Sears, Roebuck and Co. catalogs --> http://www.blackburntools.com/articles/rose-tools-catalog-archives/sears/index.html
UPDATE: I just followed the above link. Their list of Sears catalogs ends with 'Craftsman Power and Hand Tool Catalog (1972-73)'. Sorry, there's been a change since I down loaded the above mentioned catalogs.

Member mattblast does excellent reproduction machine labels!

 

[Fergiebear13]

"... I think it's done for."
Sorry my friend, that is not good news.

I believe the thin wired start-up winding has overheated and burned open. EDIT One thing - it's evident that the start-up coil was getting power at start up. Which mean the relay did the first part of it's job. the second and criticl part is to open the start circuit so it does not let the magic smoke out. This happens when the rotor reaches about 75% running speed.

You might be able to find and repair the section that is burnt, but unless we can find the root cause of it's slow start, it will happen again.

I'd say send it on to me, but with a burnt winding I would not have any way of fixing it for you. Sorry.

It's in nice shape, you could part-it-out in the classified section and/or on eBay.


Best of luck.

Hi again! Wanted to follow up on this because you helped, the issue was the connection of a wire I had to extend from the coil. I scraped the lacquer off and had someone solder a piece on, got home and put it all back together and when I turned it on it ran like brand new!!! The smoke was likely the jelly in the connector I used burning.lol So I hope this helps if anyone is stuck between a rock and hard place with their restoration. Thanks for the help!

 

[torqueman2002]

You are welcome!

I am glad you gave it another try. Happy grinding!

 

[torqueman2002]

ALERT!

Craftsman 1 HP Bench Grinder and Stand - $60​

https://athensohio.craigslist.org/tls/d/mc-arthur-craftsman-hp-bench-grinder/7413577003.html

Not mine, or anyone I know.

Listed in the Columbus, OH CL 19 days ago.

 

[Chadwilliam1]

I still need a stater for a 397.19340

 

[stonesfan68]

I still need a stater for a 397.19340

I have one. PM sent.

 

[Chadwilliam1]

I have one. PM sent.

I replied to your PM. I definitely want it.

 

[Chadwilliam1]

Yup, it's correct. On mine, it was on the LH side end bell, and the rotor has the cooling fins on the LH side as well.


Here is a shot of how the wiring on mine is done.


Question: Why did you replace the relay? In my experience, they are very robust and do not fail very often. In the dozens of Blocks I have repaired or restored, I haven't found one relay that failed.

If it were mine, I'd put the original relay back and retry. I'd also verify all electrical connections are good. Just a note about the wire used for the windings - it is covered in a varnish type insulation coating, which must be removed to make a good connection.

Good luck. Oh, have you had a chance to check the resistance of the windings yet?

Hello, i just replaced the stator in my 397.19340. I know the old stator was bad because i broke some of the wires on it when putting it back together. This thing has been sitting on my shelf for over a year in pieces. I am finally putting it back togather since i purchased a replacement stator. I wired it back just like you have in the pictures, but it just sits there and hums just like it did with the old stator. I tried flipping the rotor around and even leaving the bolts out holding the two halves together because i thought i might have them too tight.

Thank you
Any ideas?

 

[BSWS]

My grinder came with the cheap, frameless eye guards that were in pretty bad shape. I hoped to come up with a simple replacement. Not only was this simple but I already had a piece of Lexan and 2" x 1.5" aluminum angle. I used a 1/4" carriage bolt and wingnut to allow adjustment.

 

[Bro-Dozer]

Here is one FS in Scottsdale if you are looking. edit: not mine and no affiliation.

CBG in Scottsdale

 

[compunaut]

Here is one FS in Scottsdale if you are looking. edit: not mine and no affiliation.

CBG in Scottsdale

The end caps & guards are worth $25-30 alone, if not more.

 

[kenc184]

I have two 1/3hp blocks, a 1/2hp block but couldn't resist this 3/4hp block on CL for $50.

The good: It works nicely, and is in pretty good condition.

The bad: Seller positioned it to not show the fact that a tool rest and a cover is missing (and two of the four rubber feet but that's not unusual). The 8" wheel is heavily glazed, but that's an easy fix. Also, not unusually, the water tray is gone.

The unusual: It's only a 6amp motor, vs the 5.8amps of my 1/2hp unit. I know input current isn't everything, and I would have to review the differences between a split phase and a cap start motor, but still 0.2A?

Still, for $50 I now have a 3/4hp block, 1974 vintage.

 

[kenc184]

Now I see there's even a 6.2A "1/2hp" block, vs my 6.0A "3/4hp". Hmmmm.......

Is the 3.4hp block just another example of Sears horsepower?

 

[Bro-Dozer]

$50 dolla holla! Runs great. Just going to dust it off and dedicate it to wire wheels.

 

[WWShop]

I haven't posted in a really long time but here is my most current setup. I have since done some power cord management to make it a bit cleaner.

 

[Bro-Dozer]

Is their a paint color resource someone could direct me to, or link me to? Rattle cans are my speciality haha. Thanks.

 

[Chadwilliam1]

Are these lights suppose to stay on when the bench grinder is plugged in or is the switch suppose to control it? Here is how i am wired up.

 

[Rod N]

Are these lights suppose to stay on when the bench grinder is plugged in or is the switch suppose to control it? Here is how i am wired up.

Lights should shut off with switch.
here is mine.

 

[Chadwilliam1]

Lights should shut off with switch.
here is mine.

Thank you, I think i see what ive done. Ill swap it in the morning.

 

[exmaxima1]

Are these lights suppose to stay on when the bench grinder is plugged in or is the switch suppose to control it? Here is how i am wired up.

Depends of if your lamp has a switch by the hood. Not many did, but those that did generally were factory wired to have power to them all the time.

 

[stonesfan68]

Is their a paint color resource someone could direct me to, or link me to? Rattle cans are my speciality haha. Thanks.

Most of us have used Rustoleum Hammered Paint of whatever color we wanted to use.

 

[Bro-Dozer]

What's secret to removing the plastic power switch? Pinch the tabs and puuuuuuush? Hate to break it.

 

[bubinga]

Picked up today for $30.00!

 

[dapekema]

First post! Just finished my restoration of a Craftsman model number 115.19500. New paint, bearings, power cord and general cleanup. Really fun first foray into this type of restoration - has me on the lookout for another similar project!

I picked up a lot of tips and tricks reading through this forum. Thanks all for the info!