Let's talk Axes for a Minute

[Gotmayhem]

I wouldn't recommend one for automotive work, but an axe is a tool so I think this is where it belongs. It looks like it's been awhile since there has been a nice axe discussion on this forum so let's give it a shot.

I'll start with a quick question. I'm looking for a recommendation on a well priced (not pricey but not "cheap") small felling/splitting axe. I'm tempted to give this Fiskars a shot based on the price and good reviews.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BX4SBI/?tag=atomicindus08-20

I'm open to any type of handle and I'd be willing to spend more.

Axes!

 

[metaleltr]

I've used the fiskars axes, the seem to hold and edge well and aren't too terrible to sharpen. The handle seem strong but haven't really tested it. i would say it is a good choice.

 

[reptilezs]

council tool or find a nice yard sale one to refurb if you want a project

 

[Chuck122]

it may not be the proper way but I took a 40 grit flap disc, 80 grit paper and 120 paper to my old true temper axe. If wolverine and thor's hammer had a child, I'd venture say it would be my axe. the thing cuts like there is no tomorrow. and still has a nice edge after a few use

 

[Gotmayhem]

I've used the fiskars axes, the seem to hold and edge well and aren't too terrible to sharpen. The handle seem strong but haven't really tested it. i would say it is a good choice.

Thanks for the feedback!

council tool or find a nice yard sale one to refurb if you want a project

I'm certainly keeping my eye out, thanks for the suggestion on Council

it may not be the proper way but I took a 40 grit flap disc, 80 grit paper and 120 paper to my old true temper axe. If wolverine and thor's hammer had a child, I'd venture say it would be my axe. the thing cuts like there is no tomorrow. and still has a nice edge after a few use

Sounds like you've got a hell of an axe there!

 

[Greg_R]

I wouldn't recommend one for automotive work, but an axe is a tool so I think this is where it belongs. It looks like it's been awhile since there has been a nice axe discussion on this forum so let's give it a shot.

I'll start with a quick question. I'm looking for a recommendation on a well priced (not pricey but not "cheap") small felling/splitting axe. I'm tempted to give this Fiskars a shot based on the price and good reviews.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BX4SBI/?tag=atomicindus08-20

I'm open to any type of handle and I'd be willing to spend more.

Axes!

If you're not going to chop down a tree then get a splitting axe. The head shape and handle length will make splitting much easier. Please note that a good felling or splitting axe is not intended to chop roots or get driven into gravel & dirt. If you want that then go get a local special @ the hardware store.

I have some Gransfors and like them.

http://www.leevalley.com/US/garden/page.aspx?p=20129&cat=2,44728,45794,20129

 

[Gotmayhem]

If you're not going to chop down a tree then get a splitting axe. The head shape and handle length will make splitting much easier. Please note that a good felling or splitting axe is not intended to chop roots or get driven into gravel & dirt. If you want that then go get a local special @ the hardware store.

I have some Gransfors and like them.

http://www.leevalley.com/US/garden/page.aspx?p=20129&cat=2,44728,45794,20129

Thanks for the link. I'm well aware that a felling axe isn't for chopping roots. I'm looking for something for small chopping/felling, I've never used one but that Fiskars I linked seemed like it would do both at least moderately well. I never really followed the brand names of axes before so I was curious to see how well they're regarded by the more knowledgeable.

 

[Chuck122]

Sounds like you've got a hell of an axe there!

point is: if you are willing to put a bit of work in it, even a cheap axe will serve you nicely. it may get dull more quickly but I usually touch all lumber tools after a day of use anyway. if you put a little time every time, it will save you having to do major sharpening or ever using a dull axe, wich is quite dangerous.
if I were you I would find any axe that has both a size and a price that suits you.

 

[lbgradwell]

I would strongly encourage you to visit your local Husqvarna dealer and inspect the Forest Axe.

It seems to be a newer version of on that I have that used to be called the "Traditional (Multi-Purpose) Axe" on their USA site or the "All-round Axe" on the now-defunct Canadian site.

Basically, when it comes to an axe, you'd like it to be made in Sweden! They are very nice & quite reasonable. Here's a review...

 

[Gotmayhem]

I think I actually do happen to have a local Husqvarna dealer...never been in there though. This is a great excuse to stop by soon and see what they have. Thanks for the suggestion!

 

[bart1]

Look at what they have at harryepstein. I have a Wetterlings. Not cheap, and I don't know what all you intend to use it for, but mine came shaving sharp.

 

[kazlx]

How much is well priced?

http://www.neemantools.com/en/products/axes

https://vimeo.com/37360333

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003DL73LM/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[sberry]

Those fiber glass handle things like that Fiskars are hard to beat, the yellow things at HD too. They last till you lose one, weather resistant.

 

[hoonjr]

I have the fiskars axe the next size up (28 inch) from your link. It's been great. Very sharp and stays sharp. I've probably split about 3 cords with it primarily red oak. It just blows the rounds apart. So much better than the **** sledge hammer and wedge I used as a kid. I'm 5'8" so if you're this height or taller get the 28 or the next size up.

 

[retrobuilder]

COUNCIL TOOLS.. made in North Carolina and not very expensive. On line proce slightly higher than retail. Three choices= Jersey style- great for bigger work, Dayton which is good for smaller 24"-32" handles then they make a smaller lighter duty "boys axe".

I have a 20 year old 3 1/2 pound Jersey which is tough and holds an edge well.

My small user axe is a vintage Stanley 4 square.

..not impressed with handle assembly or metal of asian axes. and not much cheaper than Council. Theye also make fire/rescue forestry tools.

 

[fordbroncodave]

stihl makes a very good quality axe. my local dealer has them for $60 I believe

 

[2oolhound]

What I don't like about that fiscars is the way the head is attached. If you are splitting the face of the blade will work down the split till it hits the wider section where the handle attaches and stop there. That's just a dumb idea for any ax.

I like how their ad says you can fall any size tree with ease, HA! Anyone who has fell a tree with an ax knows there's no such thing. You're gonna sweat.

I liked my ESTtwing for an all around ax because the sides of the head are hollow ground shaped from the cutting edge to the back of the head. This means the head won't bind when splitting because the wood only touches the head at the widest point whereas a head that is more of a straight wedge shape will have more of a contact area deeper into the wood.

 

[NY_treeguy]

The problems I have with the Fiskars are the lack of mass in the had and the fiberglass handle. The axes are too light and the handles too springy. I prefer the Jersey pattern axes, I have 2 50 year old Plumb's, both set up with 32" handles. I'm 6'3" and the 36" handles are too long to work effectively. I think I paid $4.00 for each head. If you look at racing Axes they have a Jersey style head with surprisingly short handles. I also have a Hudson bay or 2 that I use for canoe camping.

Just the over-rated opinion of a professional tree guy who still uses and axe from time to time.

 

[sharkytm]

Fiskars Hatchet, Cheap-o HD Yellow Handle Splitting Maul... 3-4 cords a year, no problem. I'd like to get a Fiskars splitter?

 

[5lima30]

+1 on axes made in Sweden! But.... if you want one made in USA you need not look further than Estwing!

 

[bigcaddy]

Look at what they have at harryepstein. I have a Wetterlings. Not cheap, and I don't know what all you intend to use it for, but mine came shaving sharp.

Wetterlings or Gransfor Brux. Both are excellent quality and are worth the extra money up front.

I have a number of them and as Bart1 said, they are shaving sharp out of the box

I use my little camping hatchet to shave when i'm out camping for more then a few days

 

[DMAR]

How much is well priced?

http://www.neemantools.com/en/products/axes

https://vimeo.com/37360333

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003DL73LM/?tag=atomicindus08-20

That Gransfor in the Amazon link looks like the same exact ax as the Husqvarna shown in the earlier post, just less money for the Husky. Either way, nice ax.

The Stihl's are also nice, and a decent price. I'd like to check out the Councils, just need to find a dealer...

 

[onewaydave]

Those fiber glass handle things like that Fiskars are hard to beat, the yellow things at HD too. They last till you lose one, weather resistant.

Almost, but not quite. I bought a splitting maul with one of the yellow plastic-whatever handles because other family members kept breaking the wood handles on mine. Well it was left out in a fall rain storm that froze by morning. The plastic had little holes that I think came from the moulding process. Water got in there and when it froze, it split the handle and when I picked it up the next morning to split some wood, well good thing no one was around to get axed by the flying head.

So I returned it to ACE hardware for replacement. The salesman looked at it for a long time and looked up at me and said, "How in the hell dide you break this?"

I replied, "I donno."

Personally, I prefer a wood handled tool.

Check out Bailey's. They supply loggers. Might look at the racers, too.

http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=41040

Dave.

Dave.

 

[Burgerkong]

That Gransfor in the Amazon link looks like the same exact ax as the Husqvarna shown in the earlier post, just less money for the Husky. Either way, nice ax.

The Stihl's are also nice, and a decent price. I'd like to check out the Councils, just need to find a dealer...

The Husky axe was made by Wetterlings, but the current incarnation is made by Hults Bruk/Hultafors. Both are forged in Sweden, but the former was made better IMO. Most Swedish Forest Axes will look similar because it's a proven design, significantly different from North American axes like the Hudson Bay etc.

 

[DMAR]

The Husky axe was made by Wetterlings, but the current incarnation is made by Hults Bruk/Hultafors. Both are forged in Sweden, but the former was made better IMO. Most Swedish Forest Axes will look similar because it's a proven design, significantly different from North American axes like the Hudson Bay etc.

Good info, thanks. Do you know who makes the Stihl ax? Which one is the better ax, Stihl, or Husky?

 

[BLJ]

i've got a gransfor-bruks forest axe. love it. very sharp and a very versatile size.

second vot would be teh steel handled estwing. bought one for my dad a couple years ago and seemed like a solid ax. not a g-b, but nice.

 

[Burgerkong]

Good info, thanks. Do you know who makes the Stihl ax? Which one is the better ax, Stihl, or Husky?

I believe it's a German-made Iltis Oxhead. They are different axes, as denoted by the shape of the head which offers difference performance in chopping/felling and splitting.

http://bushcraftusa.com/forum/showthread.php/21467-Stihl-axe-made-by-Iltis-Oxhead-opinions

I'd still go with the Husky.

I've also seen an Echo-branded axe in my local hardware store, but have no idea where it's made, or who makes it.

 

[Steinmetz]

What I don't like about that fiscars is the way the head is attached. If you are splitting the face of the blade will work down the split till it hits the wider section where the handle attaches and stop there. That's just a dumb idea for any ax.

I like how their ad says you can fall any size tree with ease, HA! Anyone who has fell a tree with an ax knows there's no such thing. You're gonna sweat.

I liked my eastwing for an all around ax because the sides of the head are hollow ground shaped from the cutting edge to the back of the head. This means the head won't bind when splitting because the wood only touches the head at the widest point whereas a head that is more of a straight wedge shape will have more of a contact area deeper into the wood.

Estwing.

 

[KEH]

I grew up in a home that was heated with wood and used an ax from childhood. I still have a small Plumb ax my parents gave me.

A heavier ax is easier to use within reason. For splitting only a 8 pound splitting mall is best, but the op wants am ax for felling and splitteing. A 4 1/2 pound ax is a good weight for that purpose. The extra weight is fine for that also.

Personally, when I got a chain saw I quit using an ax to cut down trees. Only disadvantage to a chain saw is sometimes you use as much energy getting it started as you would cutting down a tree with an ax.

KEH

 

[Arachnotron]

Council Tool. Made in USA. http://www.counciltool.com/

 

[ijroorda]

I wouldn't recommend one for automotive work

I think Red Green would beg to differ

 

[ert01]

Gransfors Bruks are hands down some of the nicest axes I've ever handled. Wetterlings come a close second. But they are as much of a work of art as they are a tool. And you pay for that.

For all around general use, I carry a small Fiskars in my Jeep. The Teflon coating on the heads of those axes really does help them split wood easier. The handles take a beating and the won't warp or degrade in bad weather. And they're cheap enough to replace if you lose one or it needs to be abused a bit.

 

[Outlawmws]

SNIP
I'll start with a quick question. I'm looking for a recommendation on a well priced (not pricey but not "cheap") small felling/splitting axe. I'm tempted to give this Fiskars a shot based on the price and good reviews.

SNIP
Axes!

First and foremost felling and splitting are two COMPLETLY different tools...

With one exception: Cedar. Cedar splits so easily that ANYTHING will split it (I think you can damn near split cedar with a piece of pipe. )


What are you "felling" or are you just chopping roots? Hardwood has a different head design than an axe for hardwoods.

My favorite "axe" for GP use is an VERY old "hewing" hatchet head on a good 30" small axe handle. The older Hewing hatchets have a hardened piece inlaid on the flat side so they hold there edge better than the average one piece head.

The long handle gives the head real velocity and therefor good penetration for the comparatively light weight of the head.


Splitting Mauls and hatchets with similarly thick heads are for splitting, so when you start the blade in and the thickness drives the two halves apart. I have a couple of hatchets that are good for splitting kindling, lousy as a "cutting" tool, which pretty much describes a splitting maul.

I'd show pics of some samples, but I'm 70 miles away...

Maybe this weekend...

 

[rlitman]

What I don't like about that fiscars is the way the head is attached. If you are splitting the face of the blade will work down the split till it hits the wider section where the handle attaches and stop there.

Have you used one and had this happen?
I was wondering the same thing when I first saw one, but upon closer inspection, you can see that while the handle does wrap around the head, it does so in a recess, and the wedge shape of the head will prevent the wood from ever contacting that wrap.

I have both the Estwing hatchet and camp axe. The hatchet is nice for what it is. The axe is quite small and light. It isn't going to take large chops out of anything and is quite useless for splitting.

Honestly, when it comes to firewood, the only Estwing tool I really like is my Fireside Friend. That thing is the best for making kindling quickly.

Otherwise I reach for my splitting maul and wedges (I have a plain wedge, and a wood grendade; each has its own place where it works best). I don't chop with an axe. That's what I have saws for.

 

[2oolhound]

I have no experience with fiscar axes and was going by how the photo looked to me. I'll take your word for it and stand corrected, thanks for pointing that out!

I was a faller for about 15 years and I used the long handle Estwing for a while. It was the longest handled ax I ever used falling and was a nuisance because it could trip you the way it hung from your belt. I used to leave it with my gas and oil and keep moving it near where I was working. This worked well in a stand of timber that had a good lean, otherwise I wore a short handled ax on my belt so it was handier for hammering wedges.

You lose a lot of axes when falling trees so i've tried lots of different ones. Axes are mainly used for hammering wedges but every once in a while you need to use it for chopping your saw out of a tree. Most fallers i met would rather climb a 1/4 mile down a mountain and back for their spare saw rather than use their ax to chop themselves out. Others would come up to the nearest other faller with their tail between their legs asking if you could come and help. I always just used my ax. I'd have to say the very worst thing about falling was at that 1st moment when you saw some rotten hinge wood giving way and your tree squeezing down on your blade and you knew you were going to have to chop. It was all about production and efficiency and nothing wore you out worse and took more time than having to chop your way out of a messy situation. That could take about the same time as falling 20 trees depending on the wood you were in. My long handled estwing was my favorite in those situations.

I built log homes in the off season and so had everything from broad axes to small hatchets, adzes, scorps, slicks etc. but I often used the estwing for hand finishing my v grooves (long notch along the length of the log where it was scribe fitted to the one below) and finishing the round notches after chain sawing. Of coarse I heated with wood in those days too so I did lots of splitting and have to agree an estwing isn't the greatest for that. If I was heading off into the bush today and wanted just one ax I'd be happy with an estwing.

 

[Gotmayhem]

First and foremost felling and splitting are two COMPLETLY different tools...

What are you "felling" or are you just chopping roots? Hardwood has a different head design than an axe for hardwoods.

The long handle give the head real velocity and their for good penetration for the comparatively light weight of the head.


Splitting Mauls and hatchets with similarly thick heads are for splitting, so when you start the blade in and the thickness drives the two hales apart. I have a couple of hatchets that are good for splitting kindling, lousy as a "cutting" tool, which pretty much describes a splitting maul.

Yea I appreciate all that, it's all pretty common sense though. I'm not certain what you mean by "Hardwood has a different head design than an axe for hardwoods." You meant soft maybe?

I won't be using this for anything over 8" most likely. I liked the look of the fiskars I linked because a lot of people from review sites said it did a pretty good job at splitting smaller stuff while not being half bad at chopping either. Probably because it has a slighter larger angle V on the head that most traditional cutting axes I'm guessing. Either way I ended up ordering the X15 so we'll see how it does once it gets dry out.

 

[rlitman]

I have no experience with fiscar axes and was going by how the photo looked to me. . .
If I was heading off into the bush today and wanted just one ax I'd be happy with an estwing.

Yeah, the Fiscars do look real weird. They're supposed to be pretty good. I don't know. I've done well with axes at garage sales, so I'm not buying any more right now. At least the design ensures that the head can never come off.
I'd probably have one now, if I didn't already have more than I need.

The Estwing has its ups and downs. I can certainly see how it would be a great tool from your perspective. Unfortunately, with axes, there really is no one size fits all. The Estwing kind of tries for this, and I agree that if I had to have only one, that's the one I too would go walking off with, but this is one place where having to pick from only one, makes you have to compromise a lot.

 

[Burgerkong]

You really have to ask yourself whether you like a traditional wood handled axe or the modern one piece steel designs from Estwing. And a big plus to Council Tools, you can pick up a Hudson Bay from them for $40 IIRC at Forestry Suppliers or Bailey's.

 

[GINIK]

This is a Wetterlings "Swedish forest axe".
A nice axe.

 

[The Ratchet Man]

I have 2 Estwings for general work and I have a True Temper splitting axe for splitting. After getting that splitting axe, the maul just collects dust in the garage.