let's talk circular saws

[burger]

my ciruclar saw is beat. five years ago when my dad gave it to me it was beat. i just ripped down an old garage and now it's even beater than beat.

it's time for a new saw.

before buying anything, i do a lot of research. i searched through this board, and i'm liking what i hear about the magnesium version of the skill 77. it's the "trade standard", or so i read. i'll also add that on appearances alone, it's the most badass looking saw out there.

is there something better out there? i notice there are saws with higher AMPS and RPM than the skill saw.

i'm not looking to spend more money than i have to, but in 2020 i'd like to be the guy that's still bragging about the saw he bought in 2007 and is still using.


thanks for the help. you guys know your tools and the help is appreciated!

ed

 

[InPrimer]

Remember you get what you pay for. a worm drive is the most expensive,also the has the best torque. What a lot of people do is never bother to change the blade. The fastest way to kill a saw of any type is to use the wrong blade. Buy several blades especially carbide for press treated wood a few crosscut and rip blades, and make sure you clean the saw after each use. Believe me a air blast gets rid of a lot of sawdust that helps jam the guard. Remember to count your fingers before and after each cut LOL good luck

 

[CraigFL]

And don't throw the old one away!... There will always be a job for it.

 

[Lloydthumper]

Change the blade and have the proper size drop cord a long undersized drop cord will kill one faster than a dull blade. We have worm drive 8 1/4" Skill saws where I work and the operators kill at least one a month. and we use the right size cords they just bind them up and over heat them. We use them to cut plastic rods. The only thing bad about a worm drive saw is they are heavy especially the 8 1/4" ones we use. We have even tried high torque worm drive metal cutting saws and we kill them to an they are $900 a piece. Me personally I like Makita brand I have always gotten good service out of them But that is just a personal choice. when you go shopping just remember what INPRIMER said you get what you pay for. and there is a big differance on the way a saw cuts between a good quality one and a cheap one.

 

[IDASHO]

As noted, the worm drive skills are TOUGH, but they are also very heavy. Ive got two of them, and choose to not use them simply due to the weight.

I bought a Porter cable "blade left" 15A circular saw 4 years ago, and it has been my primary saw ever since. Tough little *******, and VERY light. It even survived cutting 100+ concrete blocks with a diamond blade for my foundation wall.

Plenty of power for normal use (definitely not going to cut headers with it!), and easy to see what you are cutting with the blade-left design.

Here is a link I found.... didnt buy it here though.
http://www.hardwareworld.com/7-14in-Circular-Saw-p7OAKWM.aspx

 

[Lloydthumper]

I have cut probally 25 LVL headers with my Makita it has done pretty good. I have had it almost 15 yrs and still going strong.

 

[Krodad]

I second IDASHO's comment on the left handed saw...I got my dad one a few years back (porter cable) because he is a lefty, but I have borrowed it a lot because it just seems easier for me to use as a right hander.

Otherwise, if you can get the 77 for the $90.00 price range, grab it, but it's a pretty serious saw for most people, and they are heavy.
I have a Hitachi from Lowes (probably a Lowes only model, I don't know) and it is a super saw. Almost all of the better names have great saws. I have not tried one with a laser yet, but it might be worth trying, as I recently bought a miter saw with a laser and I'm getting really spoiled...I will probably turn into a laser snob now.

 

[Tscott]

I bought a Cheapo Skil brand saw back when I was in High School (98 I think) And I have used the hell out of that thing. I never have Any doubt that it will cut. I keep the blades changed out and make sure I use the right blade for the application I need. It's even been run through a few pieces of cold rolled steel with a steel cutting bit, it complained, but never quit. I think it cost me 50 bucks or so and it was worth every penny. I think circular saw are pretty Tiff by their nature. Remember they were one of the first types of power tools, so manufacturers know how to make them last.

Just my .02
Tom

 

[Old Moparz]

Not sure if it's still exactly the same saw, but I bought the Craftsman version of the Skil worm drive around 1985 & still have it. A coworker told me that the model number on the motor of the Craftsman was the same as the Skil. I never verified it, but the saw is identicle in every way except the color. It is heavy, but it's never failed me. When I got it, the regular price was the same as the Skil & was around $150, but & the Craftsman was on sale for $100.

Just found this, the retail price is still the same as 1985.

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/prod...=TOOL&subcat=Circular+Saws&BV_UseBVCookie=Yes

 

[Willy Victor]

I've got the Porter-Cable left hand and like it a lot.


Willy

 

[Tman]

I bought a Cheapo Skil brand saw back when I was in High School (98 I think) And I have used the hell out of that thing. I never have Any doubt that it will cut. I keep the blades changed out and make sure I use the right blade for the application I need. It's even been run through a few pieces of cold rolled steel with a steel cutting bit, it complained, but never quit. I think it cost me 50 bucks or so and it was worth every penny. I think circular saw are pretty Tiff by their nature. Remember they were one of the first types of power tools, so manufacturers know how to make them last.

Just my .02
Tom

What he said. Ever see a carpenter try and cut rafter tails with a heavy *** worm drive?

 

[Uncle Buck]

My bro in law has framed for the last 20 or so years. I know he only uses the worm drive Skil saw. When they came out with the Mag version I know he bought several for his guys to use. I think many brands would work just fine if you are not putting them to daily hard use, but if you want the yardstick all circular saws are measured by in the trades it will be a worm drive type for sure.

 

[Rrumbler]

I bought a Skil right blade "homeowners saw" in 1965, and still have it - it is the lightest, and for "precision" work, the most convenient for me because the wider part of the shoe is on the left, and I am seriously right handed. I also have two left blade worm drives; a Skil 77, and a Craftsman Commercial that I bought after my Skil took a vacation with a plumber on a job I was on ('nuther war story - literally). They all are good tools, and each has it's own benefits and advantages, as well as some drawbacks - the C-man is extremely heavy. If you use correctly sized, sharp blades, don't over feed the cut, and keep the voltage drop down by using large enough extension cords, they seem to last almost forever.

 

[Major Ramifications]

This really belongs under tools, but what the heck.
For some reason, I have not been able to stop myself from buying a variety of circular saws over the last few years. I have the Porter Cable with the blade on the left, Dewalt 364 with the rear pivot, lightweight Dewalt 368, Skil 5-1/2", Skil HD77 wormdrive, and an old abused Skil 5350.
I love them all, but I bought the old Skil 5350 in very used condition from a pawn shop about 18 years ago. I have used and abused that thing (did you know that a circular saw is an excelent tool for digging a nice straight trench in your yard?) and the only problem I ever had was that I had to put in a new switch years ago. My favorite feature of this saw is that it has a lever right close to you fingertips that you pull slightly to raise the blade guard without actually having to reach your hand around and use the blade guard lever. I still use it at work occasionally, as it is nice to have something that I can toss around and not worry about.

The thing I love about the Skil wormdrive is that you actually have to check and change the oil in the gearbox once in a while. You've gotta love a power tool with an oil-filled gearbox.
I like them all for different reasons, and so far I have resisted the urge to get one of the Milwaukees with the Tilt-Lok handle. But I know that it is only a matter of time, as I am weak.
I hope my heirs like tools.

 

[V-10 Killer]

Damn, I didn't even know they MADE left handed saws. Why the heck have I constantly been fighting with that stupid right handed craftsman I've got!

 

[chrisexv6]

Just picked up a Bosch worm drive (havent even taken it out of the box). Basically the Skill 77 made out of magnesium with their Direct Connect feature.

Yes, its heavy. But with the aux handle its pretty easy to maneuver up to whatever you are cutting. Left blade so you can see the line, and the extra weight should do wonders for keeping it cutting straight.

This is replacing a 15-20 year old Skil sidewinder. Im going to keep that one hanging around just because, but it definitely needs a cleaning/rebuild (used it to cut retaining wall blocks, so there is plenty of concrete dust in/around it).

Lowes had a killer deal on the Bosch worm drive......only $169. Was looking at the Milwaukee 6390 for $129, but I couldnt find the left blade version anywhere locally.

-Chris

 

[crowldawg]

Ill second the 7.25" makita .I had one for over 20 yrs use it every day

 

[mulepackin]

The Skil 77 is the saw you want if in 2020 you want to boast about buying it in 2007. My stepdad was a commercial building contractor, built alot of condos, appt buildings, a hospital, retirement homes, etc. The 77 is the saw he provided on the jobs. I managed to snag a used one of them when he retired 20 years ago. All I have done is change the gear oil in it. Put on a new guard, used the right blades and have put 20 years of fairly hard use on it. You can't go wrong with one. The mag. should lighten it up pretty well I would think.

 

[boiler7904]

I've got a Milwaukee Tilt-Lok sidewinder (blade right). Love it except for two things. I don't have a blade brake. I wish it had dush collection of some sort like the Porter Cable and Festool do.

 

[randydupree]

i have several saws, a worm drive and a makita and an old (30 years) black and decker.
i buy them at yard sales and pawn shops.
pawn shops are full of almost new saws at discount prices.
i bought the worm drive (name brand,but i can't remember what brand it is) at a yard sale for $10.
Randy

 

[PAToyota]

I have a 15 year old Porter Cable that still does an excellent job. Keeping a sharp blade in it goes a long way.

 

[burger]

i'm digging up my old thread for a follow-up:

some time ago, i asked which circular saw to buy to replace a worn out cheapie. i was about to frame my garage, so it seemed like a good time to get a new tool.

one of my dad's friends lent me a skilsaw hd77 to frame my garage. it was certainly a durable and reliable tool, even after i dropped it from the scaffolding ($38 for a new base plate though!). the blade never wobbled during cutting, and the blade being on the left side of the motor let me better see where the blade was cutting (though i was rewarded with more sawdust in the face).

so, what do i use more often? a crusty black and decker that was given as a freebie. with a fresh blade, it barely bogs down. sure the blade wobbles a little bit when you hit the switch, but give it a second and it steadies out. the best part is that it weighs about zero pounds compared to the hd77. it fits into smaller places and does the job just fine.

the biggest thing we cut were 2x10's for the rafters; the b&d cut through just as well as the hd77. i'm really not sure where you need the hd77's extra power.

of the two, i'll take the old b&d. if i buy a replacement, i'll look into one of the non-worm drive saws with the blade on the left side of the motor. i liked that feature of the hd77, but not the mongo weight and size.

 

[Northstar9126]

I think that it is a regional thing. Worm drive saws seem to be very popular in the west here in the upper midwest it seems every pick-up truck with a 2X4 in the back has a Milwaukee circular saw sitting with it.. I'm on my second in 20 years. Would probably still be on my first but some azzhole broke into my garage and stole it along with a bunch of other tools. That saw is what I miss the most. I would never buy anything else based on my personal experience.

 

[Uncle Buck]

I do not think it is so much a regional thing, but rather the choice of the construction community as a whole, particularly most framers would not give a second glance to anything but a worm drive saw. At least not from what I know of the construction community and the contractors that I know.

 

[Sundowner]

I have a milwaukee tilt-lok and it's served me very well. before I had it, I had a dewalt that worked, but it had a flat aluminum shoe that always got bent and the saw was difficult to cut straight and flat after ti got dropped a few times. the newer dewalts seemt o have heavier shoes, so I guess they caught on to the problem.
whatever you get, make sure it's got a good base, good easy to read bevel and depth adjsutment that's easy to move wothout tools and postiviely locks in place. IF there's one thing I regeret about the milwaukee, it's that the square dust ejector port is ill suited for dust collection. it's a real pain to clean up when I use it inside the house.
I don't like worm saws for regular usage, they're just too heavy. that bieg said, I am in the market for one to use with a Prazi beam saw

 

[Coach James]

I still use the 12amp Craftsman I bought 14 years ago. Last year I switched from 24 tooth combo blades to Dewalt 36 tooth thin kerf blades. It was like I had a new saw with twice the power. I was cutting 3/4 plywod like it was a sheet of paper. I do want a PC left blade though.

Coach