To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Lets talk drum brake tools

signcrafter

Well-known member
Joined
May 9, 2012
Messages
12,320
So it's been forever since I've done drum brakes but I have a family member's 08 civic to do the rear drums on in the next month or so. I have most of the basics from about 10 years ago. So I'm sure I can get them done with what I have. But as usual I use these jobs for family members to get new tools and that's my "payment".

So what are your "must have" drum brake tools? Or any other tools that may relate to doing the brakes that I could pick up as payment for the job.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Larch

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 10, 2011
Messages
289
Location
Ronan Mt.
For a civic you won't need much. A spoon to loosen the the shoes for removal. Spring washer tool, and a pair of needle nose pliers. Maybe a spring plier, but that is kinda over the top on a small car. Maybe have them get you a new deadblow hammer for putting the hubcap back on. :)
 

zkling

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 23, 2007
Messages
16,939
All you really NEED IMHO is a set of locking needle nose pliers, a good size hammer, a medium sized flat blade screwdriver and a hefty pair of linemans pliers.
 

bobbycos

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 10, 2014
Messages
1,342
Location
bronx,new york
i have the Mac tools BCT 4840I tool for the brake springs as used on my Accord





and the rest of the tools i used to do the brakes

 

outdoorsman310

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 23, 2013
Messages
915
Location
DE
You could probably get away with a flat head and a pair of dykes. But a hold down spring tool and return spring tool may help.
 

Zeroek

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 19, 2008
Messages
1,091
Location
Indiana
i have the Mac tools BCT 4840I tool for the brake springs as used on my Accord





and the rest of the tools i used to do the brakes


If I had one of those blue handled snap on screwdrivers I'd be doing drum brakes too. I'd love to have a set of those. As for drum brake tools someone on here got a set of Astro Pneumatic drum brake tools. Pretty cheap and nice.
 

txbonds

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 11, 2014
Messages
276
If I had one of those blue handled snap on screwdrivers I'd be doing drum brakes too. I'd love to have a set of those. As for drum brake tools someone on here got a set of Astro Pneumatic drum brake tools. Pretty cheap and nice.




I got these last week and posted the, in the new tools thread. They are okay quality. Made in Taiwan I think. Something to note the blue handles feel hollow and not as solid as acetate handles. The spring pliers also don't work very well on my 97 4runner either due to the design angles. May work fine on other cars but I struggled on my truck. At this point I might sell the set and pick up another spring plier to get one with more appropriately angled design for my vehicle.

p590040558-5.jpg


p633948952-5.jpg
 

joedodge

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 3, 2012
Messages
2,578
Location
Tampa, fl
I've got your basic stuff. But rarely use them most of it can be done with hand tools basic spring tools are handy brake spoons are useless tho. Let me know if ya need anything
 

ken w.

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 16, 2012
Messages
2,237
Location
Western New York
I have just about every brake tool made and use the same few just about every time. For the Honda, A vise grip and the hold down tool shown above with a flat screwdriver or brake spoon is all you need.
 

David Jackson

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 4, 2014
Messages
471
Location
Magalia, California
So it's been forever since I've done drum brakes but I have a family member's 08 civic to do the rear drums on in the next month or so. I have most of the basics from about 10 years ago. So I'm sure I can get them done with what I have. But as usual I use these jobs for family members to get new tools and that's my "payment".

So what are your "must have" drum brake tools? Or any other tools that may relate to doing the brakes that I could pick up as payment for the job.

Would you like to have my mystery tool? ( ha ha)

Some think it is to line shoes.

Maybe you know what it's for.

Regards,
 

Attachments

  • 1 Good side view.jpg
    1 Good side view.jpg
    137.3 KB · Views: 39
  • 2 Good side view 2.jpg
    2 Good side view 2.jpg
    138.4 KB · Views: 28
  • 3 View from underneath.jpg
    3 View from underneath.jpg
    140.1 KB · Views: 27
  • 4 Semi Top View.jpg
    4 Semi Top View.jpg
    126.7 KB · Views: 27
  • 5 pivot points.jpg
    5 pivot points.jpg
    125.5 KB · Views: 26
  • 6 vertical side view.jpg
    6 vertical side view.jpg
    139.1 KB · Views: 25
  • 7 Good clear markings.jpg
    7 Good clear markings.jpg
    126.8 KB · Views: 33

Fedwrench

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
Dec 9, 2007
Messages
14,951
Location
Valley of the sun
go easy on the vise grip usage. I've seen new springs fail prematurely because some tech got carried away with the vise grips and created a flat spot in the spring that broke.

Buy new hardware when doing drum brakes. Think of how many times you step on the brakes during the shoe's life, we ask a lot of those little pain in the *** to remove and install springs. :lol:
 

bobbycos

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 10, 2014
Messages
1,342
Location
bronx,new york
go easy on the vise grip usage. I've seen new springs fail prematurely because some tech got carried away with the vise grips and created a flat spot in the spring that broke.

Buy new hardware when doing drum brakes. Think of how many times you step on the brakes during the shoe's life, we ask a lot of those little pain in the *** to remove and install springs. :lol:


you mean like this


 

warweapon762

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 1, 2013
Messages
323
I usually use a set of needle nose vise grips to remove and install springs, I use a set that has heat shrink tubing on jaws to prevent excessive marring, but this isn't exactly necessary.

Much of the brake spoons I've used are utter **** for smaller cars (especially on older vehicles with 10in drums, however expensive kits do include good spoons). Many times a regular flat blade screwdriver is enough to set the automatic tensioners.

Its probably a good idea to have one of those tools to remove the spring loaded shoe retainers. I think that's probably one of the only must have tools for doing drum brakes.
 
Last edited:

Lurch67

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 2, 2012
Messages
169
Location
Near Philly, Yo.
Did my civic last year, what PIA. the hole for spring is next to web, so its hard to get it back into the hole. Make sure you place paints tape over the shoe, which keeps grease and dirt from getting on your new shoe. remove tape when the job is finished. Also make sure you get a replacement set of springs.
 

92integra

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 11, 2013
Messages
857
my most useful tool for drums is a flat head screw driver with a notch in the center that i use to stretch the spings back on................. or you can just find some ol' timer who's done a million sets and he will show you how to do it without tools!
 

wildbill23c

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 6, 2014
Messages
1,360
Location
Idaho
Needle nose pliers, screwdriver, a hammer is sometimes useful to break the drum lose, and of course the tools to take the wheel off. There's nothing spectacular about brake jobs, just takes time and after a few jobs you'll know what works best for you.
 

zkling

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 23, 2007
Messages
16,939
go easy on the vise grip usage. I've seen new springs fail prematurely because some tech got carried away with the vise grips and created a flat spot in the spring that broke.

:

From vise grips or from dykes?
 

azhatchback

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 30, 2013
Messages
184
Here is a cheap one, Two M8 1.25 bolts. Thread them into the two small threaded holes on the drums to pop the drum off. Not sure if your drums has these but all the ones I have worked on do. My 2014 taccoma has them. I have never understood why people beat the drums with a hammer :dunno:
 
Last edited:
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Dave455

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 19, 2013
Messages
5,800
Location
Sussex, England
Never dealt with these on a Honda, but I've dealt with a lot of older British made cars!

I've got an old Girling tool for removing the shoes that works well! Doubt it will be needed on these small shoes though!

For British made systems, a 1/4 inch or 5/16 square socket for winding the adjusters is useful, as are a pair of parallel acting pliers for removing the shoe retainers!

Other than that, my advice would be to just lie and say you really need that new Snap On ratchet to sort the brakes out! If main dealers in the US are charging anything like main dealers in the UK, it will still work out cheaper!
 

Sam'sAutoParts

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 27, 2013
Messages
2,075
Location
Northeast PA
^^^^X2:thumbup:

That is the same thing I was going to say, I have yet to do shoes on my 00 civic, but each time I pull a drum to inspect them, I thread a pair of bolts into the drum and it pops off easy as that.
 
OP
S

signcrafter

Well-known member
Joined
May 9, 2012
Messages
12,320
Thanks for all the advice. I have the basics and the vise grips so should be good there. Thought there may be something new or better to make things easier.

What about a drum gauge for measuring and setting the adjuster? Just one of the 20 to 30 dollar ones. I think this car would have self adjusters but to get it close a gauge might come in handy.
 

abvw

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 9, 2012
Messages
645
Location
Toronto, Canada
Just turn the star wheel until the drum won't rotate, and back off until you can pull about 5 clicks on the handbrake.
 

WhiffySpark

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 22, 2009
Messages
6,252
^^^^X2:thumbup:

That is the same thing I was going to say, I have yet to do shoes on my 00 civic, but each time I pull a drum to inspect them, I thread a pair of bolts into the drum and it pops off easy as that.

Because more often than not the holes get stripped out.

I use a 48oz ball peen to get them off.
 

theknurl

Banned
Joined
Dec 18, 2010
Messages
921
Location
SoCal
Hondas used to have a small square adjuster on the rear drums try Google or YouTube

SO made a Flex socket for it
 

Altmech

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 16, 2014
Messages
61
Thanks for all the advice. I have the basics and the vise grips so should be good there. Thought there may be something new or better to make things easier.

What about a drum gauge for measuring and setting the adjuster? Just one of the 20 to 30 dollar ones. I think this car would have self adjusters but to get it close a gauge might come in handy.

Those are ok. They work fine for getting the shoes close but you still have to fine tune by going with feel. Once you've done enough of em you'll stop using the gauge and go strictly off of feel. I have a blue point gauge I've used a handful of times that just sits in my box if your interested pm me I'd let it oh for what your looking to spend
 

azhatchback

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 30, 2013
Messages
184
Because more often than not the holes get stripped out.

I use a 48oz ball peen to get them off.

I can see that if rust is a big issue where you live. I have never had this issue. It takes no effort to get the drum off using the two 8x1.25 bolt method. No need to loosen the star adjuster to do it this way like what was mentioned above. If you have a serious ridge you may have to loosen the star aduster. I ran into this on a used suburban i bought. Previouous owner let the rivits on the shoe eat the drum up pretty bad.

Now I have done it the hammer way. Takes more effort in my opinion. So if your holes are good you will love this trick that many people do not take advantage of. Just don't wack a stud if you use the old hammer method.
 
Last edited:

Frosthy

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 28, 2013
Messages
196
Location
FL
These things are the BOMB for... Everything drum brake related.

140649200.jpg
 

MG44

Banned
Joined
Jan 14, 2013
Messages
928
In ohio a 4lbs mini sledge is minimum to remove brake drum. Often times pry bars and sometimes cutting wheel if they never been off.

I did rear brakes on a 95 chevy 2500 that have never been off with 200k on the clock a few weeks ago. Huge drums with a huge rust lip. Slide hammer drum puller and it busted all the hardware and shoes inside on one side. Several hundred dollar brake job.
 

BK13

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 1, 2013
Messages
2,692
Location
PDX, OR
These things are the BOMB for... Everything drum brake related.

140649200.jpg

I've been wanting to find a good excuse to try those, you may have just provided it. Thanks. (rear brakes in the CJ, parking brakes in the F150)
 

Zeroek

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 19, 2008
Messages
1,091
Location
Indiana
In ohio a 4lbs mini sledge is minimum to remove brake drum. Often times pry bars and sometimes cutting wheel if they never been off.

I did rear brakes on a 95 chevy 2500 that have never been off with 200k on the clock a few weeks ago. Huge drums with a huge rust lip. Slide hammer drum puller and it busted all the hardware and shoes inside on one side. Several hundred dollar brake job.

Midwest is hell on drum brakes.
 

WhiffySpark

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 22, 2009
Messages
6,252
I can see that if rust is a big issue where you live. I have never had this issue. It takes no effort to get the drum off using the two 8x1.25 bolt method. No need to loosen the star adjuster to do it this way like what was mentioned above. If you have a serious ridge you may have to loosen the star aduster. I ran into this on a used suburban i bought. Previouous owner let the rivits on the shoe eat the drum up pretty bad.

Now I have done it the hammer way. Takes more effort in my opinion. So if your holes are good you will love this trick that many people do not take advantage of. Just don't wack a stud if you use the old hammer method.

I pull at least 6 drums a day. Trust me if you know how to hit a drum it's a hell of a lot easier than messing with those little bolts.

In 10 years I've hit one stud. That was on a 3500 with 129k miles that never had the drum off. I was getting pissed lol.

I guess it's different if you only work on your own cars
 

bcradio

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 30, 2012
Messages
6,017
Location
New Mexico
I pull at least 6 drums a day. Trust me if you know how to hit a drum it's a hell of a lot easier than messing with those little bolts.

In 10 years I've hit one stud. That was on a 3500 with 129k miles that never had the drum off. I was getting pissed lol.

I guess it's different if you only work on your own cars

I'm with you on the hammer method for sure.

Do all drums use M8 1.25 bolts without exception?
 

Professur

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 7, 2010
Messages
3,911
Location
Mo-Ray-Al, K-bec, Ka-Na-Da
Trust me if you know how to hit a drum it's a hell of a lot easier than messing with those little bolts.

We'd love to share. Vid clip please?

The missus nightmare malibu blew a wheel cylinder a few weeks back up in the mountains. Manage to limp it back to a shop ... he managed to get the first drum off with only a couple of whacks ... but the wet side took him over half an hour (on the lift, with all his snap-on tools and pry bars). That's when I discovered that the 2005 Malibu without ABS has the stupidest partitioning system for brakes since the Model T. Also those pathetic little ashtrays they call brake drums cost twice what the massive boat anchors for my big Olds do ... and nobody stocks them. Or the wheel cylinders for that matter. Had to send a guy in the shop truck to another province just to get parts.
 

azhatchback

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 30, 2013
Messages
184
I'm with you on the hammer method for sure.

Do all drums use M8 1.25 bolts without exception?

Not sure on this one. All the cars I have worked on yes. I have not worked on all vehicles out there like professional auto techs have seen but I have done plenty of brake jobs. My father was a mechanic. All the vehicles growing up and that I have owned accept one car, a Mazda we currently own have had drums in the rear. This is how I learned to do it and have never had issues.
 

abvw

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 9, 2012
Messages
645
Location
Toronto, Canada
I'm with you on the hammer method for sure.

Do all drums use M8 1.25 bolts without exception?

Yes, if you don't have some on hand, take off the front calipers and use those bolts.

Always relieve the shoes before you attempt to remove the drum. It only takes a whack or two to free the drum from the hub once the shoes are out of the way. If the adjuster is seized you're better off breaking the hold down pin from the backing plate and let the shoes collapse. Hardware kits are cheap.

Be very careful with the bolt method, if you just jam it right into the hub you will risk breaking the hardware kits, crack the drum or rip the shoe linings right off. You will need to tap the drum on the sides so it won't catch the shoes on its way out.
 

WhiffySpark

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 22, 2009
Messages
6,252
We'd love to share. Vid clip please?

The missus nightmare malibu blew a wheel cylinder a few weeks back up in the mountains. Manage to limp it back to a shop ... he managed to get the first drum off with only a couple of whacks ... but the wet side took him over half an hour (on the lift, with all his snap-on tools and pry bars). That's when I discovered that the 2005 Malibu without ABS has the stupidest partitioning system for brakes since the Model T. Also those pathetic little ashtrays they call brake drums cost twice what the massive boat anchors for my big Olds do ... and nobody stocks them. Or the wheel cylinders for that matter. Had to send a guy in the shop truck to another province just to get parts.

Trade secrets. I can get a rotor off with a hammer without smacking the surface area as well

You can have way too many issues using bolts. Hopefully they strip before you crack the drum or hub using that method.

And I wouldn't talk **** about someone not being able to get a drum off. After all, YOU are paying HIM to do it. You get your hands dirty and do it yourself.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom