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Let's talk extension cords and prices...

GarageGuy89

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Olalla, WA
So who have you found to supply the best prices for the following sized cords in either 3 or 4 wire for 120/240 applications:

6 Gauge
8 Gauge
10 Gauge
12 Gauge

I'd like to see what you guys have paid for your homemade cords.
 
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theoldwizard1

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When I have need a new one, typically 12 or 14 gauge, I have always found it cheaper to buy a 100' extension cord than to buy SJOOW cordage and quality ends. In fact, I have bought 100' cords and use the first 25' from the plug end on a portable air compressor and then I put another male end on the other 75' and had a good extension cord.

If you are going to "roll you own" stick with SJOOW or SOOW (300V vs 600V insulation). Male and female end that would go with 6 or 8 gauge will kill you $$$ !
 
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GarageGuy89

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I guess we have the same mind set, I also noticed the same thing with raw cord prices. HF sells their 100' 10/3 cord for around $100 out the door with coupon and tax thrown in.

Which is around 60% less than just buying the cord, not even including the plugs!

Is there a reason the raw cord is soooooo spendy compared to ones that are already made?
 

sberry

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Its worth shopping a little, I bought a 12/25 for a job and there was 10$ juice between Lowes and Menards and for some reason liked the Menards better.
I got some heavy cords and been at this a long time. I have a couple 50 ft 14 I use on occasion but really 16 in 25 and a couple 50 here and there.
I try to score them on super sale, I have enough so havnt bought them in a while but 5$ and at one time bought some 100 for 10$
I like the factory ends and if they get damaged simply replace instead of putting 20$ in ends on a utility cord.
 
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sberry

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I guess we have the same mind set, I also noticed the same thing with raw cord prices. HF sells their 100' 10/3 cord for around $100 out the door with coupon and tax thrown in.

Which is around 60% less than just buying the cord, not even including the plugs!

Is there a reason the raw cord is soooooo spendy compared to ones that are already made?

The covering may be different, the ends are different and they buy 1000's and you pay retail.
 

sberry

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I rarely use a large cord. I can see where a guy may use a piece or 2 for a compressor but for common saws, battery charger and even the comp to 50 ft, maybe more depends on the premise wiring. The concrete sawing guy has 12 cord 100 ft long as does the floor prep guy and the pole barn builder has one for his main after which he uses 14 .
I know several handy guys never owned a 12 cord, one of my Buds borrowed mine when he built a garage 30 yrs ago. His air comp was 240, never needed a cord larger than a 16 again.
Last time I can recall that I used a 14 was a roofing job 2 years ago.
 
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sberry

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So who have you found to supply the best prices for the following sized cords in either 3 or 4 wire for 120/240 applications:

6 Gauge
8 Gauge
10 Gauge
12 Gauge

I'd like to see what you guys have paid for your homemade cords.
I missed a deal on a roll of 6 I super regret but I don't need it so,,,,,,,,,,, in the interest of getting off on the right foot why?
 

Falcon67

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Amazon. I bought 35' of 10-3 "RV shore power" cord with one molded end and a couple of twist lock name brand connectors for the race trailer. As I recall, it was less than just buying the cord from Big Box. The socket/plugs were WAAAAY cheaper than Big Box. Same brand.
 

tyme2par4

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The cordage you buy at the store is going to be a little more heavy duty than a cheaper extension cord.
Also the molded on ends, mass produced are a lot cheaper than the multiple piece, screw terminal ends that you would buy yourself.
And of course, economies of scale. Manufacturers buy wire by the mile.
 

mobiledynamics

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All I use are diy cords

Carol SO or SJ cord
SEO depending on application
All Hubbell Connectors

80% is always SO, but there are times I want the SJ
 

pattenp

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Is there a reason the raw cord is soooooo spendy compared to ones that are already made?

The main difference is the Harbor Freight cords or most ready made cords from Home stores are made in China. The raw cordage around here always seems to be made by Southwire which is made in the USA. I'm sure the Southwire cordage is a lot better quality.
 

sberry

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I use almost the lightest cord I can. It's almost a reflex to size it adequately. If it's loaded constant it needs a cord a size bigger than comes on it. But contrary to popular belief millions of boards been sawn from a 16 in part. It's what I use on a circ saw to zing a 2x6 off and on occasion I use a leaf blower.
 

bczygan

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I use almost the lightest cord I can. It's almost a reflex to size it adequately. If it's loaded constant it needs a cord a size bigger than comes on it. But contrary to popular belief millions of boards been sawn from a 16 in part. It's what I use on a circ saw to zing a 2x6 off and on occasion I use a leaf blower.

Leaf blower taught me that.

Used to drag a heavy cord around.

Found that 100' of a lighter gauge was fine.

Use that now.

Bill
 

theoldwizard1

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Confession - I switched to heavier gauge 100' cords because I never learned to "over under" and my 16 gauge cords "died" from the abuse of wrapping them around my arm.
 

matt_i

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I have a 100 foot #10-4 Carol SO cord. It was originally purchased to run temporary power from my house out to a site in the yard I was going to construct a metal building. The idea was I could run it out and then roll it back when work was done. That never got past serious planning before I moved.

Today it is used for powering 3 phase equipment in my "other garage" which has no such service. Shortly it will be obsolete as the equipment will be moved into my new shop with permanent wiring.

On Normal #12 and #14 cords I prefer the Carol offerings to the molded cords for temporary project work. However, for cords that are continuously left outside, powering battery minders on a boat, 2 tractors and 2 trucks, I just use "christmas tree" cords which are green and stiff as a snake in January but have an excellent UV resistant jacket.
 

pattenp

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Carol 10X better the SW

I like SW thhn though

What makes you think raw cordage by Carol (General Cable) is 10X better than Southwire's? I've used both Carol and Southwire of the same type cordage (SJOOW & SOOW Black) and don't see any real difference.

Edit: Make sure you are comparing like jacket types, apples to apples.
 
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sberry

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One or a main reason for a 12 is pass thru for multiple outlets with no further protection. I am a 16/25 freak. If I got to use a cord want it as out of the way and as simple as it gets. I got a couple of code boogers I am getting around to 1 at a time where I wired outlets up with whips etc and should have used a power strip and/or 12 wire to them vs 14, these are plugged in things like a couple benches and are currently on a 15 brkr but someone could strip it out and connect to a 20 without realizing how its wired.
Its awfully slim but its not right either.
 

sberry

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If I am using outdoor consistently for real work then want single piece long enough to work and keep connectors to a minimum. I can use a cheap cord for decades, I don't drive over them and pick most of them up when done and avoid the temptation to leave them for "later"
Same for air hoses, don't drive, burn with a torch and even avoid walking on the stuff.
 
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sberry

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They make a number 8 welder cord with factory ends that is priced right and hard to beat if you need one for a 250A mig in a real fab shop. But all my 240 is 10 and a guy can run a buzzer from 100 ft of it.
I am not sure where the need for a 6 would be in a hobby shop, I don't have a 6 extension cord or anything needs it.
 

brewchief

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They make a number 8 welder cord with factory ends that is priced right and hard to beat if you need one for a 250A mig in a real fab shop. But all my 240 is 10 and a guy can run a buzzer from 100 ft of it.
I am not sure where the need for a 6 would be in a hobby shop, I don't have a 6 extension cord or anything needs it.

I bought a 50' #8 with nice molded ends off ebay, overkill for my 210A mig but it was nice to have factory ends that matched the welder plug and it was cheaper then I could buy #10 cord and ends to make my own. As much fun as it is to roll up I think I might consider 2 25' cords instead next time.




I've got a nice 50' #10 cord that gets used mostly from wall plug to a 3 way when I have multiple heavier draws such as compressor for nailer and a couple of saws all being used at the same time. I bought it on clearance years back but I doubt I would spend money on it now as it's really not needed.


I carry #12 cords in my work van, they are normally overkill but once in a while I'll have all my cords hooked together and have a decent draw on them so voltage drop can start to be an issue.
 

theoldwizard1

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I bought a 50' #8 with nice molded ends off ebay, overkill for my 210A mig but it was nice to have factory ends that matched the welder plug and it was cheaper then I could buy #10 cord and ends to make my own. As much fun as it is to roll up I think I might consider 2 25' cords instead next time.

You have to know your prices !! Sounds like you got a deal. NEMA plugs and receptacles get $$$ very fast as you go up in size.
 

mobiledynamics

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Was it coleman (now soutwire owned and branded) SE cable.
IMO, Coleman-SW for the the SE

SO, SJ - Carol .

Formulations do change..
Years years ago, back when Yellow Jacket was a small shop in Canada, they made amazing cables. That is how they made their name. People buy Yellow Jacket Branded Cables based on their rep, and if you hold their current cord against let's say a cord of 10 years prior, there is a night and day difference IMO, even though the ~jacket rating~ is the same
 

LS6 Tommy

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Confession - I switched to heavier gauge 100' cords because I never learned to "over under" and my 16 gauge cords "died" from the abuse of wrapping them around my arm.

I "over under" now, but I didn't for decades and never had an issue. You can successfully "arm wrap". Just make sure the cord is laid out fairly straight, Let the cord slide through your wrapping hand loosely so it can "unwind" and release kinks and loops as you roll it up. Don't pull and wind the cord tight on your arm. Let it loop on relatively loosely.

For shorter cords I don't wind around the arm at all. I just loop it, like the way a cowboy loops a lariat.

Cords can be had relatively cheaply on the internet. I got a 75' 8/4 SOOW cord with L14-30 ends for my genny for under $100.00 last year on amazon...

Tommy
 

Hilltopmasonry

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I "over under" now, but I didn't for decades and never had an issue. You can successfully "arm wrap". Just make sure the cord is laid out fairly straight, Let the cord slide through your wrapping hand loosely so it can "unwind" and release kinks and loops as you roll it up. Don't pull and wind the cord tight on your arm. Let it loop on relatively loosely.

For shorter cords I don't wind around the arm at all. I just loop it, like the way a cowboy loops a lariat.

Cords can be had relatively cheaply on the internet. I got a 75' 8/4 SOOW cord with L14-30 ends for my genny for under $100.00 last year on amazon...

Tommy



Yea the biggest thing is you have to straighten the cord out and as you loop it you might have to twist it with your fingers to make sure it loops straight. Going around the arm most people use force and wrap it tight around the arm when there is a curl in the cord creating a mess


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

R.Anderson

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I "over under" now, but I didn't for decades and never had an issue. You can successfully "arm wrap". Just make sure the cord is laid out fairly straight, Let the cord slide through your wrapping hand loosely so it can "unwind" and release kinks and loops as you roll it up. Don't pull and wind the cord tight on your arm. Let it loop on relatively loosely.

For shorter cords I don't wind around the arm at all. I just loop it, like the way a cowboy loops a lariat.

Cords can be had relatively cheaply on the internet. I got a 75' 8/4 SOOW cord with L14-30 ends for my genny for under $100.00 last year on amazon...

Tommy

Roadie wrap (over under), best way to coil cord IMO. Most of my cords are SOOW, gave up on pre made cords years ago, coiling cords in the winter *****.
 

sberry

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I agree and why I brought up winter work. A trade guy, carpenter or steel builder does winter work. Different than a 75 yr old guy in the burbs carrys extra 60# cause he goes out to get the mail in the winter. Whats the likelihood he is going to throw 100 ft over his shoulder and over a pole barn roof in the middle of the winter.
There is some difference in buying the right cord vs just getting the biggest one you can.
 

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nehog

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One thing that I always consider when buying cheap (HF, etc.) extensions is the quality of the copper. A low quality copper 10 AWG wire may be effectively a 12 AWG, or even 14 AWG due to impure copper being used in the wire. You can be 100% sure that when they specify 10 AWG they are not basing that on the wire's resistance, but solely on the conductor's diameter.
 

Infinia

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One thing that I always consider when buying cheap (HF, etc.) extensions is the quality of the copper. A low quality copper 10 AWG wire may be effectively a 12 AWG, or even 14 AWG due to impure copper being used in the wire. You can be 100% sure that when they specify 10 AWG they are not basing that on the wire's resistance, but solely on the conductor's diameter.

this is my experience too .
ive measured some and its come back closer to AL than Cu in some offshore sourced no name wires. copper plated Al strand count?
 

jeffmoss26

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Roadie wrap (over under), best way to coil cord IMO. Most of my cords are SOOW, gave up on pre made cords years ago, coiling cords in the winter *****.

I did lighting and sound all throughout HS and college. Most of the people I worked with could not coil cables worth a ****. I can do 200' of mic cable perfectly in a couple minutes over-under.

As far as extension cords go, I spent a lot of time fixing premade cords that got broken - we always used Leviton or Hubbell plugs. I would have preferred to make all the cords myself with nice 12/3 cable but it wasn't cost effective.
 

tyme2par4

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One thing that I always consider when buying cheap (HF, etc.) extensions is the quality of the copper. A low quality copper 10 AWG wire may be effectively a 12 AWG, or even 14 AWG due to impure copper being used in the wire. You can be 100% sure that when they specify 10 AWG they are not basing that on the wire's resistance, but solely on the conductor's diameter.

I've never had a problem with extension cords, but similar experience with my trailer lights.
I bought a HF utility trailer that came with lights. The damn lights would always stop working because the wire was so terrible. You'd try to strip it back and the copper strands would just break off. I could cut off 6" and restrip, and somehow there was corrosion on the fresh wire.
Ended up having to replace it all with a new light kit from TSC.
 

sberry

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I found some 10 ft at a Walgreens or something on sale for 2$ as while back, I tossed a couple in the cart and wish I would have bought a dozen in hindsight. They were so handy they got gobbled quickly.
 
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