lets talk toilets

[bdog]

I am putting a bathroom in my shop. I had a plumber install the vent and drain pipe before the slab was poured. I have two 4" pipes sticking up a foot or so out of the slab.

Everything I read on the internet and in my home improvemnt book talks about replacing toilets with the flange already there to bolt it to. I need to install this flange but am not really sure how.

Do I just cut the drain pipe flush with the concrete and then this flange glues in?

What about the vent, does it need to go outside or will one of those one way vents I see at homedepot work?

 

[Charles (in GA)]

They do make flanges that glue inside 3 and 4 inch pipes.

Charles

 

[Hawk]

Assuming you are plumbed with PVC use a flange assembly to glue inside the 4 inch pipe. I recommend using one with a brass flange. Rotate the flange so the johnny bolts will line up for the base to fit, then anchor the flange to the floor. Your vent will work best if you take it through the roof.

 

[bdog]

Thanks. Yes it is PVC. So I cut the pipe flush to the floor, buy a brass flange that glues inside the 4" pipe, glue it in, I am guessing it has places for 4 bolts? Two that go up into the toilet and maybe two offset that I will anchor into the concrete?

 

[gabeancounter]

Yes cut the pipe as far down as you can reach with a sawzall. Then take a 4" grinder all the way around the pipe to make it as flush as possible to floor - I just use the masonary pad that is always on the grinder. Need to put a rag or something in the drain to keep all the pieces out. Many folks like the pvc flanges with the metal ring. If it was me I would just buy the standard 4x3 flange (fits inside 4" and over3"). Prime both the inside of the pipe and the outisde of the flange. Get the oatley glue in the green container -heavy- and put the glue on heavy. Push it in the pipe and give a 1/4 turn. Make sure the t-bolt slots are turned to where the bolts would line up in the center of the slot!. Also keep down pressure for 30 seconds to let the glue set. If you don't it will push back up 1/4 inch or so and then you have a mess. There is really no need to bolt the flange to the concrete, but I guess it does not hurt.
4" vent pipe??? They don't make a magic vent that size. I assume this pipe is in the wall. Go ahead and T-off to catch the sink and reduce it down to 3" and run through the roof. Good luck.

 

[PassnThru]

Would it make sense to put the floor in before you cut the pipe and install the flange? If you are doing ceramic tile or a similar thick floor in the bathroom that would make sense to me. Of course, if you are leaving it bare concrete or using vinyl or something thin then it wouldn't be an issue.

 

[Hawk]

Right dont fasten the flange to the floor and when you twist wrong on the seat you will break the plastic flange. Most states building codes REQUIRE a plumber to properly fasten the flange. The reason I recommend a brass flange is PVC breaks when it shifts wrong.

 

[KenB]

What if there is tubing in the floor for radiant heat and drilling anchor holes is dangerous? Can the flange be secured to the floor with construction adhesive (or something)?

Ken

 

[gabeancounter]

Its been about a year since I installed the flanges in the basement and I did use the metal ones. The main level I used the standard plastic. Hawk is correct. It is the best method to bolt them in the concerte with a tapcon or shield and anchor. Attached the only pic I have @ work of the basement flange.
My father is the plumber I was just doing the grunt work!

 

[bradleys]

You might consider a wall mounted toilet. I had one when I lived in California, and it was great. It flushed well, and cleaning under it was easy.

If you get one with a tank, it might be somewhat expensive. The non-tank versions may require (by home standards) high input water flow.

The wall mount needs to be strong, of course, since you have a cantilever force on it.

With a wall mounted toilet, you would only need to run standard pipe to your pipe stubs - no flange.