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Let's talk torque wrenches

WhiffySpark

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I think I'm going to finally buy some torque wrenches today. Already know what brand, it starts with s and ends with n :lol:

1/2 I think I'm going to buy a split beam. Use it mostly for lug nuts so I figure that's a good choice

3/8 I'm undecided on. I've been thinking tech angle?

1/4 I'm undecided on as well. I don't recall seeing many angle bolts in 1/4. I had a BMW valve cover the other day that called for like 75 inch lbs I would have liked to torque
 
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michelin

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You need all three. I bought the 3/8 off the truck (traded my old wrench against it) and picked up the other two sizes on ebay. All digital with flexi head. Very good wrenches if you can get a deal. Ironically, both my 1/4" and 1/2" stopped working after a while (they are 'old' type with grey handle). My driver warranted both so happy days!
 
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WhiffySpark

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You need all three. I bought the 3/8 off the truck (traded my old wrench against it) and picked up the other two sizes on ebay. All digital with flexi head. Very good wrenches if you can get a deal. Ironically, both my 1/4" and 1/2" stopped working after a while (they are 'old' type with grey handle). My driver warranted both so happy days!

Tech wrench or tech angle?
 

AntonLargiader

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I bought my first TechWrench specifically for lug bolts. I did not want to be watching a beam from some off-angle.

High-torque fasteners are the ones where it's hardest to work next to the wrench. Much easier to be inline where you can't read the face. Anything with audible or tactile feedback is really good for this application.

Strongly recommend a beeper or clicker for this.
 
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WhiffySpark

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I bought my first TechWrench specifically for lug bolts. I did not want to be watching a beam from some off-angle.

High-torque fasteners are the ones where it's hardest to work next to the wrench. Much easier to be inline where you can't read the face. Anything with audible or tactile feedback is really good for this application.

Strongly recommend a beeper or clicker for this.

Split beam still clicks. I use torque sticks for lug nuts and don't do many head gaskets anymore. I'm not wearing out a $600 torque wrench on lug nuts lol

Should I get a tech angle 1/4 or regular clicker?
 

Adam.C

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Split beam still clicks. I use torque sticks for lug nuts and don't do many head gaskets anymore. I'm not wearing out a $600 torque wrench on lug nuts lol

Should I get a tech angle 1/4" or regular clicker?

3/8 techangle can read any unit including inlbs. Lowest range is 60inlbs. 200inlbs is probably a reasonably reliable low range.

If you do any modern brakes or suspension, you'll need a 1/2" tech angle. 3/8" is also essential due to the speciality sockets like bit sockets.

I don't have a 1/4" torque wrench. I'd like one. But in my experience thus far, there are few rents for torque that low that really matter. The gaskets and heads are all doable with the 3/8".
 
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WhiffySpark

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I don't torque brakes or suspension. Just for motor work. Intakes water pumps etc
 

rsanter

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For lug bolts you o lay need a good enough torque wrench. A simple HF click type will be all you need.
For engines is where you need the higher precision torque wrenches. Spend the money where you need and and not where you don't

Bob
 

scissorman

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A torque value is critical no matter the location. I torque every wheel I install with my 1/2" clicker and I NEVER use an impact with a torque stick ever. I don't even own torque sticks and I don't believe in them as there is too much room for error if you don't know the amount of torque they were designed to be used with and also know the true torque output of thee impact you're using.
 
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WhiffySpark

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I have the 1/2 covered. Split beam is all I need

I ordered a 3/8 tech angle

Idk about 1/4. Clicker or techangle?
 

scissorman

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For the 1/4" I'd go for the in/lb Torqometer. Just remember there are 12 in/lbs to a ft/lb so choose one that would cover your needs in either in/lb or ft/lbs range.
 
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Philbert

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I have a CDI dial guage type from the late 80s. Last year about this month I bought two clickers from the Home Despot. They where the NOS made in the USA. I like them alot I have the 3/8 & 1/2 drive. Now I'm thunking about the CDI 1/4 drive from Amazon. Perhaps this Christmas. This and new cable for me Stereo. Of course I could get more tools buha ha ha ha. As my wife groans in anguish in the back ground.
 

Adam.C

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Please keep in mind guys: there are people with cars made after 2000. Some of these vehicles are requiring angles. So keep that in mind when choosing a new torque wrench. If pushed, I could provide an equation to convert angles into torque (approximately) Failing that, if you encounter a modern vehicle you are stuffed without a techangle or ratcheting angle gage.
 

JJThrasher

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3/8s techangle is great. 1/2 techangle can be useful one some stuff, but for most people its a waste of money. Its also ridiculous overkill for wheels. A torque wrench is can only be as accurate as the person using it, and I have never seen some hand torque a wheel and actually spend the time to do it right. You can get a good 1/2 click wrench from SO for under $400. You can say even more and get a decent one elsewhere.

A Gearwrench 1/2 click type is rated more accurate than the SO and can be had for $150 online.
 
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T45

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A Gearwrench 1/2 click type is rated more accurate than the SO and can be had for $150 online.

Accuracy is a wash IMHO with modern gear 3-4%, the issue to spends the money on is all about repeatability and longevity. Also cost of lifetime of service and calibrations.

Its much better to have a consistently performing for 1000x of duty cycles than one that got lucky on calibration (or magazine testing) day.

:3gears:
 

Fcvapor05

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Please keep in mind guys: there are people with cars made after 2000. Some of these vehicles are requiring angles. So keep that in mind when choosing a new torque wrench. If pushed, I could provide an equation to convert angles into torque (approximately) Failing that, if you encounter a modern vehicle you are stuffed without a techangle or ratcheting angle gage.

angle gauges have been around for 50 years. I don't see a problem here.
 

guy48065

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Accuracy is a wash IMHO with modern gear 3-4%, the issue to spends the money on is all about repeatability and longevity. Also cost of lifetime of service and calibrations.

Its much better to have a consistently performing for 1000x of duty cycles than one that got lucky on calibration (or magazine testing) day.

:3gears:
Repeatability is a part of the accuracy standard. 3 runs at 20, 60 & 100% of full scale, NOT averaged. If ANY ONE reading is out of spec the wrench is rejected. That's a fairly tough standard to pass 18 tests without a single "flyer" but even HF wrenches make the grade.
That said if you REALLY have a need for hair-splitting accuracy & repeatability then choose the electronic wrench. Nothing is more consistent than a strain-gaged beam operating within its elastic range.

Of course most of you only send your tools for calibration "once in a while" if ever so why even pretend to be concerned about accuracy?
 

Adam.C

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3/8s techangle is great. 1/2 techangle can be useful one some stuff, but for most people its a waste of money. Its also ridiculous overkill for wheels. A torque wrench is can only be as accurate as the person using it, and I have never seen some hand torque a wheel and actually spend the time to do it right. You can get a good 1/2 click wrench from SO for under $400. You can say even more and get a decent one elsewhere.

A Gearwrench 1/2 click type is rated more accurate than the SO and can be had for $150 online.

My guess is Gearwrench's specs are more marketing than science. I agree with the first paragraph that using a torque wrench is complicated and folks don't use them properly. Talk about accuracy is kinda irrelevant if you don't know how to use it.
 

guy48065

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My guess is Gearwrench's specs are more marketing than science. I agree with the first paragraph that using a torque wrench is complicated and folks don't use them properly. Talk about accuracy is kinda irrelevant if you don't know how to use it.

I'm not in the "guessing" business. I have no love for Gearwrench (Apex) but they meet specs. My issue with their electronic torque wrenches is the high number of electronic failures for no reason.
 

GSteg

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Of course most of you only send your tools for calibration "once in a while" if ever so why even pretend to be concerned about accuracy?

This made me smile. :D:D

Worse is when there is a 10 page thread on clicker vs beam vs digital when all the guy wants to do is tighten some lug nuts. lol.
 
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WhiffySpark

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This made me smile. :D:D

Worse is when there is a 10 page thread on clicker vs beam vs digital when all the guy wants to do is tighten some lug nuts. lol.

This thread is getting there. I said I had 1/2 covered and we have 2 pages of why I need a $600 tech angle for lug nuts
 

walkerbait

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I would be interested in hearing if a clicker or techangle is better for 1/4" drive. I've been eying the QD1R200 for quite some time to get a lower range than my 3/8" goes down to, but maybe a digital is the right way to go?
 

Schurkey

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What I know is that the two places I've been for torque wrench calibration charge 2.5x more for "electronic" torque wrench calibration than ordinary "clicker" calibration.

That's a significant difference when the owner is buying the calibration rather than some deep-pockets business.

Clickers for me, thank you very much. I have a Mac 3/8 20--100 ft/lb, and Mac 1/2 50--250 ft/lb as my primary torque wrenches, although there's some beam-type 1/4" jobs for pinion preload and other light-duty (120 inch-pound/10 ft/lb) stuff. This does leave me with a "hole" between 10 and 20 ft/lbs where I don't have a decent torque product. I'll look into that someday. When I do, it'll most likely be a Precision Instruments or CDI tool that I select.


I have a Lisle angle-gauge for when I don't sh!tcan the TTY fasteners and substitute ARP.
http://www.centurytool.net/28100_Lisle_Torque_Angle_Meter_p/lis28100.htm
 
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WhiffySpark

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I would be interested in hearing if a clicker or techangle is better for 1/4" drive. I've been eying the QD1R200 for quite some time to get a lower range than my 3/8" goes down to, but maybe a digital is the right way to go?

I ordered 2 tech angles. I'd rather have it and not need it than need it and not have it.
 

pi_guy

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This thread is getting there. I said I had 1/2 covered and we have 2 pages of why I need a $600 tech angle for lug nuts

I take my click type to pit lane for lug nuts. The others stay in the shop or just are not tossed about pit lane.
I have the 1/4 torque o meter that I use for pre load on gearboxes the rest 1/4,3/8, 1/2 are electronic.
 

T45

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I would be interested in hearing if a clicker or techangle is better for 1/4" drive.

One advantage of the techangle in that drive is the extended range. when you sit down and do the math, most standard clickers are only good for 2 bolt sizes (or so), and in 1/4 drive this is even more of an issue.

The techangle does 3-30nm which is one bolt size below the clicker and one above as well. So if you get 4 bolt range thats alot more useful tool than the minor amounts of NM might otherwise indicate.

Full coverage of m4 to m8 in 8.8
vs
m5 and m6 (with some 10.2s+ an odd M7)

Of course the issue here is also about return on investment and how sensitive the bolts you are working with really are. :bounce::bounce::bounce:
 

guy48065

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What I know is that the two places I've been for torque wrench calibration charge 2.5x more for "electronic" torque wrench calibration than ordinary "clicker" calibration...
That's ridiculous! Electronic wrenches are way easier to calibrate than clickers.
Except for all the re-branded Apex ones--those MFers require you to send them back to the factory for cal bc there's no means to access the settings in the menu.

Here's a little-known tidbit for you: Snap-On & CDI electronic torque wrenches have only a single-point adjustment. You adjust it dead-on at full scale CW and just hope it's in-spec at all other points CW & CCW. Jetco electronics procedure is to take a reading at ±10, 50, 100% + zero. That's a 7-point adjustment for accuracy. Better specified accuracy AND it's easier to achieve it.
 

Schurkey

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That's ridiculous! Electronic wrenches are way easier to calibrate than clickers.
From the Team Torque download:
http://www.teamtorque.com/documents/torquepricing.pdf
3.5 inoz TO 250 ftlb CLICK-TYPE TORQUE WRENCH (ALL BRANDS) $49.50

3.5 inoz TO 250 ftlb ELECTRONIC TORQUE WRENCH $125

My other shop is Angle Repair; I looked at their price list--a click-type or dial-type is $45, but I don't see a listing for electronic at all. I was sure there was one, but I must be mistaken.
http://anglerepair.com/repair-calibration-charges/

So: I was wrong, only one of my favorite torque-wrench recalibration services charges 2.5x for an electronic torque wrench, and the other doesn't list a price for electronic wrenches at all.

What is the contact info for your lab?
 

guy48065

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While we're talking about electronic torque wrenches...
I might be the last to know this but Apex has discontinued their torque-angle wrenches.

Get them while existing stock is available--and before you are gouged for the remaining few.
Or better yet don't buy from a company who makes them in China but packages them with "Assembled in USA" BS...and then pulls the plug on the product to leave their customers hanging.
 
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