Leveling a shed

[thejudges69]

My wife and I just moved our shed to our new house. The land is very uneven where we placed it. I'm wanting to use columns and sonotubes to level it. The shed is 8x22, it sits on 2 treated 4x6 runners that are solid from one end to the other. I'm think of doing 3-4 6" columns under each runner going down in the ground roughly 36-42".

Has anyone done anything like this? I used blocks at my old house but the ground was very level. The new house is built on a hill. My concern is the shed moving on the columns. I know it shouldn't but it's still a concern.

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[dmdc411]

Are you in a region where the ground freezes? If so, the method you described would work. Put a bucket of gravel in the bottom of each hole so moisture doesn't get a chance to contact the treated post. Personally, I m in Minnesota. I dug out approx 12 inches deep, under each footer, filled with pea rock, set landscape blocks on the pea rock, then the runners for the shed. I have 10 x 12 shed. The rear support is 16 inches above the front due to unlevel ground. Been there 16 yrs, still level, not an issue. I then had a bunch of retaining wall blocks, so I used them to fill in between the supports. Looks like the shed has block wall supporting it. Keeps the animals from nesting too!

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[nadogail]

I am a fan of concrete posts in Sonotubes.

 

[thejudges69]

Are you in a region where the ground freezes? If so, the method you described would work. Put a bucket of gravel in the bottom of each hole so moisture doesn't get a chance to contact the treated post. Personally, I m in Minnesota. I dug out approx 12 inches deep, under each footer, filled with pea rock, set landscape blocks on the pea rock, then the runners for the shed. I have 10 x 12 shed. The rear support is 16 inches above the front due to unlevel ground. Been there 16 yrs, still level, not an issue. I then had a bunch of retaining wall blocks, so I used them to fill in between the supports. Looks like the shed has block wall supporting it. Keeps the animals from nesting too!

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I'm in NE-Ohio, if the winter gets cold enough we will see the ground freeze.

I figured a few inches of gravel in each hole. Dig the hole with a post hole digger on the tractor, sonotube the top few inches for a nice finish above grade and send it. Level the tubes with a string and level since I don't have a tripod laser level. After a few days to let the concrete setup I can reposition the shed.

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[NUTTSGT]

I can't see what would hurt by using concrete in sonotubes. Got access to the equipment and time to do it, have at it.

 

[thejudges69]

I can't see what would hurt by using concrete in sonotubes. Got access to the equipment and time to do it, have at it.

I figure I can do these in a day's work. I need to set this shed before winter. About 8-12 bags of quikrete and a little gravel and it's done..

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[NUTTSGT]

https://www.concretenetwork.com/concrete/howmuch/calculator.htm

This will help you figure out how much 'crete you need. Click on the "column" banner.

 

[thejudges69]

https://www.concretenetwork.com/concrete/howmuch/calculator.htm

This will help you figure out how much 'crete you need. Click on the "column" banner.

Thanks man. I actually found that exact site earlier. I just need to figure out how many columns I want..I'm thinking 4 per runner.

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[TractorJeff]

3 tubes per side should be plenty!

 

[thejudges69]

3 tubes per side should be plenty!

You don't think the length will be an issue? The span between the columns will be about 10'.

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[NUTTSGT]

How many supports did you have under it at the last place ?

I would think 3 should be enough but 4 isn't going to hurt. Going to cost you what about $50 more to add the extra 2 columns ?

 

[SweetD]

How did you and your wife move that shed?

 

[bad_idea]

The land isn't sloped that much in the pictures. What, maybe a foot difference from one end to the other and front to back? My shed is sitting in the corner of my yard in about the same slope. I dug a foot down, dumped gravel in the hole and placed solid cinder blocks in the hole. Leveled all of the blocks - some piers are stacked a few blocks above grade while some are even with grade. Poured sonotubes will be more 'solid', but does it need to be? It is only a shed. If you do pour sonotubes then put straps in the concrete to attach the shed to, might as well anchor it if you're going to do all of that work.

I put a pier every 4' as my runners are 4x4s. With 4x6 runners I would space them 6' apart. Look up span charts for decks to get an idea on support of the runners. What you plan on loading in the shed plays a big factor on support.

 

[thejudges69]

How did you and your wife move that shed?

Like this

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[thejudges69]

The land isn't sloped that much in the pictures. What, maybe a foot difference from one end to the other and front to back? My shed is sitting in the corner of my yard in about the same slope. I dug a foot down, dumped gravel in the hole and placed solid cinder blocks in the hole. Leveled all of the blocks - some piers are stacked a few blocks above grade while some are even with grade. Poured sonotubes will be more 'solid', but does it need to be? It is only a shed. If you do pour sonotubes then put straps in the concrete to attach the shed to, might as well anchor it if you're going to do all of that work.

I put a pier every 4' as my runners are 4x4s. With 4x6 runners I would space them 6' apart. Look up span charts for decks to get an idea on support of the runners. What you plan on loading in the shed plays a big factor on support.

Kubota and a zero turn. Reason I thought sonotube columns was because I have an auger, and I can do them without tearing up the yard to much. I could punch 8 holes in about 2 hours and level and fill. I'd say 5-6 hours and I could have them all done and poured.

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[thejudges69]

How many supports did you have under it at the last place ?

I would think 3 should be enough but 4 isn't going to hurt. Going to cost you what about $50 more to add the extra 2 columns ?

It sat on 12 paver stones at the old house. But the ground was level, so there wasn't anything to it. We've owned it about 8 years and it sunk about 3 inches over that time. The blocks that were under it were 4" thick 10x12" I believe in size.

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[Sparkynutz]

You're overthinking things. Throw down some gravel compacting every few inches till its level then if you want, put down a solid concrete block at each corner then fill rest with gravel after dropping shed onto final blocks.
That's what I did.
If shed was rigid enough to move on a trailer its rigid enough to not settle too bad.
Re-leveling wont be nearly as much work as moving it either if need be in 10-20 years.

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[jsaw]

I had a load of crushed run dumped where I wanted the shed and raked it out to make a level spot to set the shed on. The crushed run is thin on one end, and 18" deep at the other end.

 

[thejudges69]

I had a load of crushed run dumped where I wanted the shed and raked it out to make a level spot to set the shed on. The crushed run is thin on one end, and 18" deep at the other end.

I don't have good access to dump stone. To get the shed to where it is we drove through about 200' of grass. That's why dumping and leveling isn't really the best option.

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[CraigStu]

Kubota and a zero turn. Reason I thought sonotube columns was because I have an auger, and I can do them without tearing up the yard to much. I could punch 8 holes in about 2 hours and level and fill. I'd say 5-6 hours and I could have them all done and poured.

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Seems to me you have a plan. I really don't think it's needed but, if it makes you feel better, put a J-bolt into the 4 corner piers and use some strap to anchor the shed.

 

[thejudges69]

Seems to me you have a plan. I really don't think it's needed but, if it makes you feel better, put a J-bolt into the 4 corner piers and use some strap to anchor the shed.

Well lol. Still reading the suggestions. Until I drag the auger in here in the middle of December [emoji1787][emoji1787]

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[Michigan Mike]

;Your plan sounds good to me. You have the equipment on hand to do it. With the tractor and auger its pretty easy. I might run the sonotube all the way to the bottom . That might be easier than having to support it at the top.

 

[thejudges69]

;Your plan sounds good to me. You have the equipment on hand to do it. With the tractor and auger its pretty easy. I might run the sonotube all the way to the bottom . That might be easier than having to support it at the top.

I thought about that. A local concrete guy said not to do that. Just cause the ground acts as the tube. Well sort of lol. He said just cut a tube and place it at the top above grade so it houses the concrete and it don't run off.

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[jhelrey]

^ He is correct.

You can easily pull a sonotube filled with concrete out of the ground. You can't pull a column of concrete out of the ground without major disruption/damage.

 

[thejudges69]

^ He is correct.

You can easily pull a sonotube filled with concrete out of the ground. You can't pull a column of concrete out of the ground without major disruption/damage.

That's good to know. I wasn't aware that would work. I figured after a couple years the sonotube would be gone from the ground eroding it

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[dmdc411]

When. I put a deck on my home 20yrs ago, the city required sona-tubes. I'm in Minnesota, frost can go as deep as 48 inches deep or more! If no tube was used, they felt the frozen ground would grip the concrete, and could push the footing up causing damage to the structure. Sona-tube created a smooth surface, allowing the ground to heave without moving the footing.

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[thejudges69]

When. I put a deck on my home 20yrs ago, the city required sona-tubes. I'm in Minnesota, frost can go as deep as 48 inches deep or more! If no tube was used, they felt the frozen ground would grip the concrete, and could push the footing up causing damage to the structure. Sona-tube created a smooth surface, allowing the ground to heave without moving the footing.

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That's good information. seems like it would make sense since the cylinder in the ground would be rough for dirt and water to leak into the pores.

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[jhelrey]

^ Correct!

 

[NUTTSGT]

When. I put a deck on my home 20yrs ago, the city required sona-tubes. I'm in Minnesota, frost can go as deep as 48 inches deep or more! If no tube was used, they felt the frozen ground would grip the concrete, and could push the footing up causing damage to the structure. Sona-tube created a smooth surface, allowing the ground to heave without moving the footing.

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That's what I was always told, the sonotube prevents it from frost heaving.

 

[thejudges69]

So the sonotube, you just drill the holes and push it In?



[emoji23][emoji23][emoji23][emoji23][emoji23][emoji23] Yup I just asked that

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[Bretny]

I really only read your first post OP. But even 4 sono tubes across 22' with only 4x6 runners isnt enough. I have a 10x14 with 6x6 runners and used 3 supports. It's just barely enough. Alot can depend on what size floor joist you have too.

 

[thejudges69]

I really only read your first post OP. But even 4 sono tubes across 22' with only 4x6 runners isnt enough. I have a 10x14 with 6x6 runners and used 3 supports. It's just barely enough. Alot can depend on what size floor joist you have too.

I mentioned I'm considering doing 8 tubes. 4 under each runner I think, don't quote me but I think the floor joists are rough sawn true 2x6 or 2x8. I'd have to check to know for sure.

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[Bretny]

Even 6x6 runners dont span ****. You would have 5' spacing after pulling in each end one 1'...is my math correct?

 

[thejudges69]

Even 6x6 runners dont span ****. You would have 5' spacing after pulling in each end one 1'...is my math correct?

Ya roughly

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[thejudges69]

So I'm struggling to find 6 inch sonotubes locally and I've even called quikrete directly.

Thoughts on using 6 inch pvc? It won't be 6 inch OD diameter but will be big enough for what I need.

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[readhead]

Have you contacted concrete supply places?

 

[thejudges69]

Have you contacted concrete supply places?

About a dozen.

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[readhead]

6” is not a common size. Can you go larger? I’m in the shed business and not quite sure why you are going this route but I’m sure you will work it out.

 

[thejudges69]

6” is not a common size. Can you go larger? I’m in the shed business and not quite sure why you are going this route but I’m sure you will work it out.

I don't need a bigger post. What route would you suggest? Did you see the above posts and pictures?

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[readhead]

First, don’t think of the skids as supporting the whole structure. Since the building is designed to haul down the road the walls act like beams and provide support for the floor joists. The skids are mainly for supporting the building during transportation and supply approximately 50% of the floor support. You can put in as many supports as you want but three on each side would be plenty.
Getting the building up on the posts can be a problem. Usually we get the building in position and then pick the building up and place supports under as required. We are in a freezing location and have not found frost heave to be a factor.
Solid concrete paving blocks make good supports. It may be possible that one end will be on the ground and you only have to install four supports. Obviously your plan will work and yes the sonotubes should go all the way to the bottom of the hole. Just giving another option.