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Leveling concrete under garage door

BetterDays

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 26, 2005
Messages
2,943
Location
Ohio
As with any home in Northeast Ohio, the concrete is settling in the 50+ year old garage.

My goal is to grind it level and possibly create a new lip to keep additional water from coming into the garage.

With that said, would it be better to saw cut the area first and then hit it with the grinder? The area in question is approximately 6" x 16' and maybe 1-2"
deep.

My initial thought was to use the circ saw (masonry blade) to cut the new edge and then grind from there, but there may be some advantages to having multiple 16' lines while grinding.

Your experience and expertise is greatly appreciated.
 
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kbs2244

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Nov 11, 2006
Messages
14,065
Assuming your problem is the door not coming down tight against the slab,
would it be easier to make a wooden wedge across the bottom of the door to match the slope of the settling?
 

66HertzClone

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Joined
Dec 6, 2006
Messages
4,037
Location
Long Valley, NJ
It sounds like my garage floor and door problem. I have three doors and all three of the doors rest on the slab in the middle of the opening but have a gap on both ends, on side is almost 1 1/2". I thought it might be settling, but since there are no cracks any where, I think it was just poor workmanship when the slab was laid.

I intend to cut wood to fit the gap and fasten it to the bottom of the doors. I considered using this along the bottom to provide a better seal than the normal rubber gasket so often used.
retainBT-tubed.jpg
I would have to modify the flange to follow the contour of the door bottom, but this seal looks like it will work well and be durable.
 
OP
B

BetterDays

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Mar 26, 2005
Messages
2,943
Location
Ohio
Oh, it comes down tight against the slab... in spots. :lol_hitti

I have the u-channel type weatherstripping. Some spots don't rest against the concrete, while the middle sections (already cracked to hell) is slamming the door.
 
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white64

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Joined
Aug 18, 2009
Messages
10
This was happening in my garage too... I bought a 2inch wide 1/8 steel strap @ HD, welded bolts (on what would become the underside) of the right length so the strap would be level to the floor, drilled several holes in the strap and used concrete screws to hold the strap in place. Then used mortar to fill under the strap and tapered out the mortar to make slight inclines. I can still hand push a car over the ramps/strap quite easily. And the door closes nicely on the strip.
 

Zeke

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Joined
Aug 13, 2009
Messages
17,176
Location
Long Beach CA, the sewer by the sea.
If you cut the slab to make it level, just tear out the cut portion and dowel a new strip to the slab. I'd make it deeper like a small footing and trowel it to match the grade about a foot inside the garage.

Otherwise, I like the suggestions to add to the bottom of the door, add the bulb type w/s and readjust the closer to land softly.

I've been a contractor for 40 years, hope that helps.
 
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