Leveling freestanding metal cabinets

[HoosierDaddy]

Hi,

I just took delivery on 4 Husky 72x36x18 ready to assemble free-standing cabinets. They are to be against a garage wall on a floor that slopes (left to right facing the cabinets) for drainage.

I researched before buying and the install videos indicated the legs could be adjusted from inside the cabinet by putting an allen wrench thru a hole inside. That meant I could bolt each cabinet together, position it against the wall and adjust the legs so it was level, plumb and all that good stuff. Do the same with the next in line, just a little higher on the legs to compensate for the garage floor slope.

But I unboxed the first and... no access to adjust the legs from the inside. They can only be adjusted below the cabinet by twisting the feet one way or the other.

My experience doesn't include how to do this when I won't be able to reach one back corner on the first cabinet that is in a corner or the same corner on each cabinet as it is placed against the previous. Are there any tricks of the trade to keep that from becoming a long series of trial and error due to the slope of the floor being different between where I adjust the legs in the middle of the garage and where they will end up against the wall? Or are concrete slabs in garages pretty much perfect planes?

At close to 100 lbs each empty (with the door off), I worry about stress on the legs or even the sheet metal the legs are bolted to sliding the cabinets around for each attempt.

 

[qdvuu]

I'd return them since they are not the product you ordered, plus I'd want them to pay the return shipping. The main reason you bought the item was because of its ease-of-adjustability and the product you received didn't offer that feature.

 

[The Cobbler]

call them and explain the deficiency. see what they offer or suggest,.
if they don;t offer anything substantial, and you are still really stuck on these cabinets I would look at fabbing up adjustable feet as per the video

 

[kbuhagiar]

call them and explain the deficiency. see what they offer or suggest,.
if they don;t offer anything substantial, and you are still really stuck on these cabinets I would look at fabbing up adjustable feet as per the video

This.
Couldn't hurt to ask, and you may get a 20% credit (or more) for your trouble.
I'm sure that they would rather not have those cabinets shipped back.

 

[71goldss]

I had a similar experience with leveling my two Seville workbenches along a side wall in my sloped floor garage. I had easy access to all of the feet, but I will say based on my experience, that by the time you get to the final end cabinet, it’s possible that the feet at that end will be very tall, and possibly less stable than you want. I don’t no what your skills are, or if you weld, but one possible suggestion would be to build a metal frame foundation for the cabinets, level it as you build, then place the cabinets on top and bolt everything together.
Hopefully there will be easier suggestions that require less work!

Edit: If you have a footing that sticks out from the base of the wall, a metal frame could also be made high enough to clear it and allow your cabinets to be place right up against the wall. And, the cabinets could also be bolted to the wall studs for maximum stability.

 

[LXCam]

I had the same issue with my lista bench I built. So I put it up on some 4x blocks in the exact spot it was going in, adjusted, lifted and removed the blocks.

 

[Steve from Socal]

It is a fair bit of work but, you could grout a level pad for all the cabinets on the slab. do some checking on machine grouting

 

[Toolfool]

What about cutting a couple of pressure treated 2x4's the length of the total cabinets, shim them level (every 12" or so), and set the cabinets on them ?

 

[ycgoat]

Assuming the back corner is the highest point, I would set that corner as low as it will go and extend all the rest to level to that point

 

[kaymccampbell]

You guys are losing your edge. It's been up for an hour and no one has told him to tear down the garage, rip up the floor, and rebuild it all level n nice. What's wrong with y'all?

 

[LXCam]

You guys are losing your edge. It's been up for an hour and no one has told him to tear down the garage, rip up the floor, and rebuild it all level n nice. What's wrong with y'all?

Shhhhh

We’re waiting for him to find out there’s not enough adjustability and admits...


Wait for it....




Defeat




/me runs n hides

 

[HoosierDaddy]

I'd return them since they are not the product you ordered, plus I'd want them to pay the return shipping. The main reason you bought the item was because of its ease-of-adjustability and the product you received didn't offer that feature.

This.
Couldn't hurt to ask, and you may get a 20% credit (or more) for your trouble.
I'm sure that they would rather not have those cabinets shipped back.

They might credit me something BUT they are the cabinets I ordered and Home Depot/Husky never claimed the legs could be adjusted from inside. That was from a video a customer made. Husky must have made a change. They were a flash sale and with my 10% veteran discount were VERY cheap. So, want to make them work if I can. I see some good ideas above.

 

[HoosierDaddy]

call them and explain the deficiency. see what they offer or suggest,.
if they don;t offer anything substantial, and you are still really stuck on these cabinets I would look at fabbing up adjustable feet as per the video

That would be a stretch for me. I'm decent taking things apart and putting them back together but not fabbing things. I'll see if I can find legs like that and what it would take to install them. Will definitely need new holes for the adjusting wrench to go thru. And if the legs don't use the mounting holes that it came with would be another problem. Everything with these cabinets attach with some kind of reinforced threaded holes in the sheet metal. Sort of like rivets but with threads thru them. Eliminates nuts and also keeps the allen head bolts from flexing the sheet-metal they go thru if any side loads.

 

[HoosierDaddy]

I had a similar experience with leveling my two Seville workbenches along a side wall in my sloped floor garage. I had easy access to all of the feet, but I will say based on my experience, that by the time you get to the final end cabinet, it’s possible that the feet at that end will be very tall, and possibly less stable than you want. I don’t no what your skills are, or if you weld, but one possible suggestion would be to build a metal frame foundation for the cabinets, level it as you build, then place the cabinets on top and bolt everything together.
Hopefully there will be easier suggestions that require less work!

Edit: If you have a footing that sticks out from the base of the wall, a metal frame could also be made high enough to clear it and allow your cabinets to be place right up against the wall. And, the cabinets could also be bolted to the wall studs for maximum stability.

I have such a footing and plan to screw a board the same thickness near the top of the cabinets, so they can't tip back. That board will also have included brackets that are used to strap the cabinets to prevent forward tipping if someone climbs on a shelf.

I plan to have the legs for the first cabinet to be the shortest possible to be level. If the legs have enough range, I can keep the tops of all 4 the same height. But worst case, they will be slightly stair stepped.

The welded versions of these cabinets, are designed to be bolted together. Based on the thinner steel in mine and less rigidity of bolts compared to welds and the fact they don't mention the possibility, I suspect Husky is concerned the sheet metal could flex if bolted together if adjacent cabinets are not absolutely square.

 

[HoosierDaddy]

It is a fair bit of work but, you could grout a level pad for all the cabinets on the slab. do some checking on machine grouting

Will look into that. Not sure if you mean to grind down one end or raise the other end.

What about cutting a couple of pressure treated 2x4's the length of the total cabinets, shim them level (every 12" or so), and set the cabinets on them ?

Interesting. I know almost nothing about lumber. I won't be maxing them out but I think maximum loaded weight for these is around 800 lb. So that would be ~200 lb per leg. Need some reinforcement for the lumber?

 

[HoosierDaddy]

You guys are losing your edge. It's been up for an hour and no one has told him to tear down the garage, rip up the floor, and rebuild it all level n nice. What's wrong with y'all?

Shhhhh

We’re waiting for him to find out there’s not enough adjustability and admits...


Wait for it....




Defeat




/me runs n hides

Momma taught me to not mess with anyone I don't know their capacity for revenge.

 

[HoosierDaddy]

It just occurred to me that if these bolt together square, maybe I can adjust the legs trial and error with just the base before I bolt the sides, back panels and top on. Would sure make it easier to pull just the base away from the wall over and over again to adjust back legs.

And am I right to assume the slab is probably not a perfectly flat sloping surface? I mean if it were, there would be no trial and error because leveling it away from the wall would still be level when mover against the wall.

 

[Steve from Socal]

Grouting is like pouring a formed pad under the object, you level the object and block/brace it. Then you make a moat around the contact points and fill the moat with grout, that is a non shrinking slury like concrete.

How much is the difference in the floor high to low, fraction of an inch, inches, many inches?

 

[ipgenie]

Use a French cleat. Hang one side level full length on the wall, connect the mating pieces to the back of the cabinets. Hook the first cabinet to the wall cleat, level the feet, then set the next cabinet next to the first, remove the first and level the second....repeat three times then put them all back.
The cleat will function as your stabile connection to the wall and all the cabinets will be level. Bolt them together at the end if you want.

 

[JWILLIE1977]

Only assemble the bottom of the cabinet with the feet threaded in.
Dry fit the bottom piece only, adjusting the feet until you are satisfied, then assemble the rest of the cabinet. Repeat for subsequent cabinets.

Should make the trial and error session more bearable as you are you only moving the bottom panel of the cabinet, rather than the whole cabinet.

 

[nadogail]

I built a plywood platform that is level and stood the cabinet on the platform. The thinnest part of the platform is only 3/8 of an inch the thickest part is maybe 3/4 inch. The cabinet is 48” wide and 18” deep.

The cabinet has been in place for 24 years and is anchored to the wall behind it.

 

[HoosierDaddy]

Shhhhh

We’re waiting for him to find out there’s not enough adjustability and admits...

Wait for it....

Grouting is like pouring a formed pad under the object, you level the object and block/brace it. Then you make a moat around the contact points and fill the moat with grout, that is a non shrinking slury like concrete.

How much is the difference in the floor high to low, fraction of an inch, inches, many inches?

Laser says..... ~2.25" drop in the 12 feet where the cabinets will be.

Legs only have a little more than 1" adjustment before I wouldn't trust remaining threads.

So will need to either stair- step the cabinets or have something under some of them.

 

[kaymccampbell]

Laser says..... ~2.25" drop in the 12 feet where the cabinets will be.

Legs only have a little more than 1" adjustment before I wouldn't trust remaining threads.

So will need to either stair- step the cabinets or have something under some of them.

Were it me, I'd pull off the legs, and put them in a plastic bag. Make a 2x4 base frame on the floor. Level that. Then plop the cabinets on top of it. It'll be more stable than the little bolt legs, and you'll never have to clean or hunt for 10mm sockets under it.

 

[HoosierDaddy]

Use a French cleat. Hang one side level full length on the wall, connect the mating pieces to the back of the cabinets. Hook the first cabinet to the wall cleat, level the feet, then set the next cabinet next to the first, remove the first and level the second....repeat three times then put them all back.
The cleat will function as your stabile connection to the wall and all the cabinets will be level. Bolt them together at the end if you want.

First time I've heard of a French cleat. This sounds promising but I'm not really picturing this: Hang one side level full length on the wall. Sounds like the side would be perpendicular to the wall?

Until I understand this, maybe cabinet assembly method impacts doing that? Since these are sheet metal with long (72") sides, those panels can flex until forming a box. Assembly calls for standing base on edge (rear edge up), bolting the two sides to it, bolting 5 back sections to each other and the sides, then bolting the top on. Sides could flex and twist until box completed.

 

[HoosierDaddy]

Were it me, I'd pull off the legs, and put them in a plastic bag. Make a 2x4 base frame on the floor. Level that. Then plop the cabinets on top of it. It'll be more stable than the little bolt legs, and you'll never have to clean or hunt for 10mm sockets under it.

That sounds good. Legs are still in bags. One cabinet (left one in pic) unboxed now but here's how they looked where the freight company laid them. (Ignoring "this side up", per normal. LoL)

 

[kaymccampbell]

That sounds good. Legs are still in bags. One cabinet (left one in pic) unboxed now but here's how they looked where the freight company laid them. (Ignoring "this side up", per normal. LoL)

Great. Problem solved. Now I can die in peace.

 

[619DioFan]

I have 3 6 foot tall cabinets in a row and as Kay mentioned I put mine on a riser to be level with a 7 foot tall cabinet. Since I am 6'4" the higher up things are the better for me.

 

[CraigStu]

I think you will be OK just adjusting the legs. Assuming a straight but sloped floor the 2 1/4 inch slope over 12 ft is 2 1/4 divided by 4 or just slightly over 1/2inch per 3 ft wide cabinet. Do as JWILLIE1977 says in post #20. They will end up stair stepped but I would be fine w/ that in my garage. I also like the building a level riser idea but not sure of your tool availability for cutting 2x4s or 2x6s.

 

[david3921]

It just occurred to me that if these bolt together square, maybe I can adjust the legs trial and error with just the base before I bolt the sides, back panels and top on. Would sure make it easier to pull just the base away from the wall over and over again to adjust back legs.

And am I right to assume the slab is probably not a perfectly flat sloping surface? I mean if it were, there would be no trial and error because leveling it away from the wall would still be level when mover against the wall.

What you suggested here is how I would do it. I was curious and downloaded the assembly instructions. It says to install the side panels to the bottom and then the feet. Putting on the feet first and leveling all four assemblies to the floor and each other is the way to go. I would suggest you use two sided tape rather than screws when you do this step. The cabinets use pretty light gauge steel and the holes may strip out if you assemble, disassemble, and reassemble the legs to the bottom using the supplied screws.

 

[Jim_No_Garage]

Building a level platform and setting the cabinets on that is a good approach. I did that in the garage under my main cabinet.

I didn't do that these 3 basement cabinets and the floor dipped and sloped in several directions in this corner. Getting everything aligned took me quite a bit of time . . .

Jim

 

[Stuart in MN]

If the legs are visible as indicated in the picture in the first post, I don't see it as a big problem - put the cabinet in place against the wall, and reach underneath to adjust them. It may be tedious and you may need some help to tip the cabinet up so you can reach the back legs, but if your floor is anywhere close to level it can be done - no need for all the elaborate schemes suggested.

 

[Zeke]

If the legs are visible as indicated in the picture in the first post, I don't see it as a big problem - put the cabinet in place against the wall, and reach underneath to adjust them. It may be tedious and you may need some help to tip the cabinet up so you can reach the back legs, but if your floor is anywhere close to level it can be done - no need for all the elaborate schemes suggested.

Agree. 800 lbs on a french cleat sounds like trouble. These need to rest hard on the floor. Good point about 200 lb per leg on lumber. Not so good an idea.

Some of these ideas create a dead space that can't be cleaned. I want to see what get's under my cabinets, I don't know about you.

 

[84944Redline]

First time I've heard of a French cleat. This sounds promising but I'm not really picturing this: Hang one side level full length on the wall. Sounds like the side would be perpendicular to the wall?

Until I understand this, maybe cabinet assembly method impacts doing that? Since these are sheet metal with long (72") sides, those panels can flex until forming a box. Assembly calls for standing base on edge (rear edge up), bolting the two sides to it, bolting 5 back sections to each other and the sides, then bolting the top on. Sides could flex and twist until box completed.

I’ve done this with almost all the cabinets in my garage and am so glad I learned of this method. Having the big cabinets a little higher up off the ground allows for easier sweeping to keep **** from accumulating. And it sure makes it easier to level cabinets. I’m confident it makes the cabinets more supported than using the dinky legs that came with.

 

[CraigStu]

Looks like cleats have worked out for Redline but I'd be leery. The cabinets are designed to be set on their feet. Switching to hanging them on the wall from their back panel may or may not work. I have 8 wall cabinets on cleats, and they are in the 3rd garage now, but they were designed for it.

 

[71goldss]

Looks like cleats have worked out for Redline but I'd be leery. The cabinets are designed to be set on their feet. Switching to hanging them on the wall from their back panel may or may not work. I have 8 wall cabinets on cleats, and they are in the 3rd garage now, but they were designed for it.

Agreed! I own a Craftsman Premium Heavy Duty floor cabinet that I purchased from Sears about 8 years ago. Black with the grey hammer finish doors. I love that thing, and the only regret I have is that I didn't have room to purchase more. I wouldn't dream of basically hanging it on a wall. May work for lightweight storage items, but heavily loaded might be another issue. I feel there's a reason other than just size that they are called "floor" cabinets!

 

[71goldss]

Duplicate post! No clue why it did that?

 

[Glemon]

So if the legs aren't long enough to make the cabinets level from end to end, wouldn't you have probably had the same problem with the internal hex adjustable legs? Anyway, I would move each one over 3" or whatever out from where it needs to rest, adjust the back inner foot, and slid it in place. You may have to adjust slightly, but shouldn't be too hard. If you don't want to stair step them and you don't have enough adjustment shim raise up the last couple. Or maybe you could French clear the last couple and put a lighter load in them if worried about strength and integrity. If you want it to look really good build a platform for all all the way across, but that sounds like a lot of work with the slanted floor.

 

[HoosierDaddy]

I think you will be OK just adjusting the legs. Assuming a straight but sloped floor the 2 1/4 inch slope over 12 ft is 2 1/4 divided by 4 or just slightly over 1/2inch per 3 ft wide cabinet. Do as JWILLIE1977 says in post #20. They will end up stair stepped but I would be fine w/ that in my garage. I also like the building a level riser idea but not sure of your tool availability for cutting 2x4s or 2x6s.

But I also like the idea of nothing accumulating beneath (dirt, free range sockets, etc.).

I'm having the "platform" built. My wood working tools are limited to one hand saw and a rip hammer.

 

[HoosierDaddy]

What you suggested here is how I would do it. I was curious and downloaded the assembly instructions. It says to install the side panels to the bottom and then the feet. Putting on the feet first and leveling all four assemblies to the floor and each other is the way to go. I would suggest you use two sided tape rather than screws when you do this step. The cabinets use pretty light gauge steel and the holes may strip out if you assemble, disassemble, and reassemble the legs to the bottom using the supplied screws.

Since I am planning on a platform, I assembled these without the legs.

And I modified the instructions. They called for bolting the sides to the base frontside up and then flipping it backside up to install the back panels. Since things are relatively unsupported until the 5 back panels are in place, I bolted the base and top to the sides face down. And I used a square which I was surprised the instructions didn't even suggest. Then I installed the back panels. Then tipped the cabinets upright. Until the platform is built, I won't install any shelves. The doors are on but just to get them out of the way. I'll lift the doors off before placing the cabinets on the platform. Maybe an industry standard but I was pleased that the top pin of the door hinges is longer than the bottom pin so you can start the top and then focus on lining up the bottom.

 

[HoosierDaddy]

I’ve done this with almost all the cabinets in my garage and am so glad I learned of this method. Having the big cabinets a little higher up off the ground allows for easier sweeping to keep **** from accumulating. And it sure makes it easier to level cabinets. I’m confident it makes the cabinets more supported than using the dinky legs that came with.

I'm going with a platform.

Not because of this but I don't think these are strong enough to hang with shelves loaded. The base is massively sturdier than the back and sides.