Leveling joints after epoxy

[Jayhawk_Aviator]

Epoxy floor is done, but I’d like to fill the joints. My understanding is that the sikaflex that Home Depot sells is not the right stuff as it doesn’t get hard like the floor. I’m told that metzger mcguire rs88 is the right stuff, but it is pretty pricy. Anyone have any experience or other options ¿

Thx
Scott

 

[Kaizen]

Silkaflex I got at hd is hard. Not as hard as concrete obviously but not soft or squishy after it cures. Watch the temperature. Flows better in warm weather. Definitely tape both sides of what you are filling


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[CarBikeGuy70]

Silkaflex is the way to go. Tape both sides and work slowly in warmer temps as well. I used the product to repair a gap in the mortar joint in some bluestone that was laid over a concrete walkway. Concrete was solid but one gap at an expansion joint allowed for too much movement. I bought a tube of Silkaflex at HD.- only a hairline separation after 3 years. This is on a north facing sidewalk in Ct. Use it and never look back, it works.

 

[Radix2]

Epoxy floor is done, but I’d like to fill the joints. My understanding is that the sikaflex that Home Depot sells is not the right stuff as it doesn’t get hard like the floor. I’m told that metzger mcguire rs88 is the right stuff, but it is pretty pricy. Anyone have any experience or other options ¿

Thx
Scott

I used the Metzger Mcguire urethane - and you cannot use it after your floors are finished.

You overfill the cracks, then knife it to level. There is no way to use it to just fill to the top. You have to pretty much discharge the stuff as fast as you can to prevent it from hardening in the nozzle, so no time for finess. Knifing it level would destroy your epoxy.

 

[Jayhawk_Aviator]

The mezger guys told me if I taped it well and immediately dragged a puttry knife at a 90 deg angle after applying it would work.

Anyone have pics of the sikaflex? My understanding is that it's slightly "squishy", collects dirt, and doesn't give the same effect as the the polyurea which effectively gives a soid strong finish.

 

[brownbagg]

i did my joints first and then epoxy over the joints, nice and smooooooth

 

[Kaizen]

Mine also is under epoxy. Yes you can push into it and it will move slightly. But not more then a millimeter.It’s not concrete. How big are your joints that this would happen?? If it’s warm I’d try silkaflex as it flows and self levels. Nice and smooth. Or go buy one of each and use on a few feet and decide for yourself


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[Radix2]

The mezger guys told me if I taped it well and immediately dragged a puttry knife at a 90 deg angle after applying it would work.

Anyone have pics of the sikaflex? My understanding is that it's slightly "squishy", collects dirt, and doesn't give the same effect as the the polyurea which effectively gives a soid strong finish.

I seriously seriously doubt that that would not turn out to be a huge mess.

The stuff is expensive, if you consider trying this, definately order one tube and try it first.

The stuff comes out like water and hardens in seconds. Stop pumping for more then a very short time and the nozzle is done. One batch I did were tubes that were near their exp. date...those were crazy fast to set up.

Pump accurately, squeegee, not get it all over, not clog? That I would have to see. See if Metzger will send you a video...

 

[tncatadjuster]

If you mask it, make sure and tape down paper on one side for extra run off. It pays to go a extra wide.

 

[Jayhawk_Aviator]

Any other options that would cure "hard" and level? Wishing I would have done under the epoxy, but that ship's sailed.

I'd still love to see a sikaflex pic, but I think I've seen that before and don't care for that look.

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

If you mask it, make sure and tape down paper on one side for extra run off. It pays to go a extra wide.

This! and this is a popular way of filling these post application. That said, I have done a few of these and after the mess I would never do this again.

We fill and grind prior to coating exclusively.

 

[Jayhawk_Aviator]

Scotty, you use the sikaflex if it is post coating?

 

[tncatadjuster]

Any other options that would cure "hard" and level? Wishing I would have done under the epoxy, but that ship's sailed.

I'd still love to see a sikaflex pic, but I think I've seen that before and don't care for that look.

How many feet and how much work do you want to do? One joint per weekend on your knees bent over for two hours and I'm sure you can produce a reasonably acceptable result. To me it I would, but I've done so much that I'm skewed.

 

[Jayhawk_Aviator]

I’ve probably got around 150 to 170 feet

 

[Lonnies Performance]

I used the Sikaflex. on my floor with good results on the thin saw cuts.

I used foam backer rod to limit the caulk depth to approx 1/4" & taped all joints with 2" tape before applying. I overfilled slightly, then let it sit for about 5 minutes & used a squeegee to wipe off excess from the tape. After about 5 more minutes, when I was sure it stopped flowing, I pulled up the tape.

It was easy to do but time consuming. You must block off all ends as it will flow out of any openings or intersections.

I used 15 large tubes & a whole case of masking tape to fill about 1000 linear FT of saw cuts.

 

[Jayhawk_Aviator]

Got any pics?

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

Scotty, you use the sikaflex if it is post coating?

Yes, have used Sika SL for these. All the big-box stores have it.
Here is one we did: https://www.instagram.com/p/BMo5pHiA0Kn/?taken-by=legacyindustrial