Leviton Smart GFCI

[justsam]

Is anyone using these yet? Seems like it might be a handy thing in some difficult or remote locations. Seems like NEC is moving more and more to GFCI breakers so this concept may be a little late. Not sure "happy home owner" is going to want one more app on their phone that "does what for me"?

Smart GFCI | Leviton Manufacturing

It's an industry first! Leviton's Smart GFCI Outlet/Receptacle sends notifications directly to your smartphone when a GFCI trips due to a ground-fault.

leviton.com

 

[duneslider]

I might pick a couple of these up for fridge and freezer that are on GFCI, I haven't had any issues in 3 years on them but its one of those things I worry about. I don't want to lose a full freezer of beef...

 

[wyliesdiesels]

For a critical circuit like a fridge freezer sewer or sump pump, i can see it being a good idea. But anyhong else? Meh

 

[BrandonV]

Hey! Now I know why Leviton submits comments to the NFPA!

 

[mike93lx]

For a critical circuit like a fridge freezer sewer or sump pump, i can see it being a good idea. But anyhong else? Meh

Relying on a "smart" device for a critical application? Feels almost as bad as using a gfci on them in the first place

 

[BrandonV]

Relying on a "smart" device for a critical application? Feels almost as bad as using a gfci on them in the first place

I believe the GFCI and wireless components are completely separate, and there’s no remote reset functionality. In my opinion, if the size of the GFCI is similar, it’s tolerable, but I’m curious about its longevity compared to a high-quality standard GFCI.

For critical applications like a refrigerator, I think it would be more valuable to monitor the appliance itself. Whether the GFCI remains on doesn’t matter if the compressor fails or the door is left open, for example. The same principle applies to something like a sump pump. From an engineering perspective, the main goal is to measure and ensure the desired outcome. Is the pump moving water? Is the refrigerator maintaining the correct temperature? Is the door closed when the fire alarm is initiated?

 

[sparky 1971]

Think of the panic that will be started when someone gets a notification that a GFCI has tripped. Vacations will be cut short, restaurants abandoned with full meals on the table, all traffic laws violated, and who knows what other chaos will be created. It would be much easier to lose the GFCI at the fridge, freezer, and sump pump just for the peace of mind.

 

[mm08822]

Think of the panic that will be started when someone gets a notification that a GFCI has tripped. Vacations will be cut short, restaurants abandoned with full meals on the table, all traffic laws violated, and who knows what other chaos will be created. It would be much easier to lose the GFCI at the fridge, freezer, and sump pump just for the peace of mind.

Maybe should auto-dial 911 and have a crew of first-responders arrive on scene with sireeens and all da blinkin lights running.

 

[Shiftless]

Think of the panic that will be started when someone gets a notification that a GFCI has tripped. Vacations will be cut short, restaurants abandoned with full meals on the table, all traffic laws violated, and who knows what other chaos will be created. It would be much easier to lose the GFCI at the fridge, freezer, and sump pump just for the peace of mind.

 

[Poolshark314]

I'd be onboard if it was compatible with some existing IoT/smart device apps and not need ANOTHER app just to monitor an outlet

 

[duneslider]

I'd be onboard if it was compatible with some existing IoT/smart device apps and not need ANOTHER app just to monitor an outlet

I agree, however, with this it would just be monitoring and sending an alert if it goes off, so not quite as inconvenient but it is annoying that everyone has to do their own thing and not make it compatible with other "standards". Most of my other smart devices are Kasa and they work fine for my needs, then the garage openers are their own thing, so yeah, it would be nice if it was all just one app...

 

[BrandonV]

I agree, however, with this it would just be monitoring and sending an alert if it goes off, so not quite as inconvenient but it is annoying that everyone has to do their own thing and not make it compatible with other "standards". Most of my other smart devices are Kasa and they work fine for my needs, then the garage openers are their own thing, so yeah, it would be nice if it was all just one app...

I am curious about this so I'm going to pick one up today to see if I can hack or play around with it a bit. Would be nice if there is some other interface besides their application.

 

[dave*99]

I use the Leviton app for several devices in my house. As I understand it, you can link the Leviton system to Google home, but I have not tried it.

"Leviton smart devices can be controlled with Google Home by linking your Leviton account to your Google account. You can use your voice to control your Leviton devices with Google Assistant. "

 

[Shiftless]

You can use your voice to control your Leviton devices with Google Assistant

Is there a chance that Google assistant will hear your voice when you’re yelling at your kids and misinterpret something you said and end up shutting down your refrigerator or something else that you don’t want shut down?

 

[dave*99]

Is there a chance that Google assistant will hear your voice when you’re yelling at your kids and misinterpret something you said and end up shutting down your refrigerator or something else that you don’t want shut down?

As I said, I've never used it. For all I know it could bring up the **** you were watching last night and show it to your family while you are trying to play back family vacation videos. "Hey Google, show me a video from when I was having fun."

Remember, computers only do exactly what they were programmed to do.

 

[Shiftless]

No voice command or app controlled anything at our house. No dimmer in the garage, just 2 conventional toggle switches. Need full brightness? Click two switches. Don’t need full brightness? Click one switch. Easy-peasy. Very inexpensive and quite reliable.

 

[dave*99]

Most of the things I try to control by voice just end up yelling back at me. Or barking. Same thing I guess.

 

[jlv03]

This would work great for a sump pump, if you could get some real time data and historical data on the app on when the pump was running (and for how long).

 

[dave*99]

This would work great for a sump pump, if you could get some real time data and historical data on the app on when the pump was running (and for how long).

The Leviton product mentioned in this thread does not monitor power consumption. But there are a number of products on the market that do.

 

[mike93lx]

This would work great for a sump pump, if you could get some real time data and historical data on the app on when the pump was running (and for how long).

Emporia Vue does this very well

 

[jlv03]

Correct, there are tons of products that monitor energy usage. But, if you are the type that has such a system in place, then what value does this type of Smart GFCI provide?

If power monitoring isn't part of the Leviton product, I'm not seeing much value add for the end user beyond "is the circuit on or not?". Bundling just one more feature might make it that much easier of a sell for the majority of people that haven't gone down the home automation path.

 

[dave*99]

I suspect if you are a typical (whatever that means) new home buyer and the builder offers this GFCI with monitoring, it might be attractive. The builder won't offer to remove GFCI protection. I bet there are many folks out there that only find out their refrigerator is on a GFCI after the food is warm.

Now if you are a GJ member, you might have salvaged your refrigerator from a junkyard, recharged it with refrigerant you recovered from a 1972 Grand Torino, installed it in your garage where you removed all GFCI and AFCI protection, powered it with used solar panels connected to golf cart batteries and a charge controller you found on eBay. And you have spares for all of this.
I'm closer to the latter than the former.
YMMV

 

[BrandonV]

I suspect if you are a typical (whatever that means) new home buyer and the builder offers this GFCI with monitoring, it might be attractive. The builder won't offer to remove GFCI protection. I bet there are many folks out there that only find out their refrigerator is on a GFCI after the food is warm.

Now if you are a GJ member, you might have salvaged your refrigerator from a junkyard, recharged it with refrigerant you recovered from a 1972 Grand Torino, installed it in your garage where you removed all GFCI and AFCI protection, powered it with used solar panels connected to golf cart batteries and a charge controller you found on eBay. And you have spares for all of this.
I'm closer to the latter than the former.
YMMV

Close. My refrigerator is from England and I had to install one of these.

BSRDP-W

White - British Standard Receptacle, 13 Amp, 250 Volt, Decora, Tamper-Resistant, with Double Pole Switch, Integrated to the Circuit, to Cut Off the Current On Both Contacts

leviton.com

 

[BrandonV]

Doesn't look like the GFCI supports local control yet but pretty nifty.

GFCI beeps as most of the new ones do and supports silencing the beep remotely.

Of course during testing I knocked some alligator leads ironically from the load side to ground. Didn't trip which was odd but I suppose it may have been the instantaneously disintegration of my alligator clips which didn't give it enough time.

 

[reader2580]

Close. My refrigerator is from England and I had to install one of these.

I’m curious. Do you have some sort of converter to make an English refrigerator work? We use split phase for 240 volts, and the UK does not for their 230 volts.

 

[dave*99]

230 volts

In the UK, the declared voltage and tolerance for an electricity supply is 230 volts -6%, +10%. This gives an allowed voltage range of 216.2 volts to 253.0 volts.

The UK refrigerator doesn't need the neutral. It will run on US 240V. Some units may not like the 60Hz frequency.

 

[kbuhagiar]

I’m curious. Do you have some sort of converter to make an English refrigerator work? We use split phase for 240 volts, and the UK does not for their 230 volts.

I'm curious too, back in the 60s we relocated to Malta from the US and were told not to bother bringing our electric appliances, as even if we used a step-down transformer, any appliance or device with a motor would not function to spec, because the USA is on 60Hz and Malta was on 50Hz. (BTW Malta's system mirrors that of the UK.)

Is that still a problem today?

 

[reader2580]

Maybe I don't understand things , but doesn't a UK circuit that is 230 volts consist of a hot, a neutral, and a ground? How do you connect only the hot on a UK plug and get it to work on an American circuit? In the USA we utilize two wires for 240 volts. Wouldn't a single hot on a typical American split phase circuit be only 120 volts?

 

[niget2002]

This could be useful.

Right now, I have a backup battery plugged into the GFCI in the garage. If the GFCI trips, the battery kicks on, triggers an alert in HomeAssistant, which then sends the alert to my phone. The garage fridge and deep freeze are plugged into the same circuit.

 

[wyliesdiesels]

I’m curious. Do you have some sort of converter to make an English refrigerator work? We use split phase for 240 volts, and the UK does not for their 230 volts.

usually appliances have a voltage range tolerance of 5% or so. I imagine 240v is well within the range. also volts is volts. appliances dont care what type of transformer wiring generates the voltage. it doesnt care if its connected via 2 ungrounded conductors or an ungrounded conductor and neutral

 

[Norcal]

When the EU “harmonized” voltages to 400/230V nothing changed those were at 220V & 240V stayed there it just fell within the tolerances.

 

[dave*99]

Maybe I don't understand things , but doesn't a UK circuit that is 230 volts consist of a hot, a neutral, and a ground? How do you connect only the hot on a UK plug and get it to work on an American circuit? In the USA we utilize two wires for 240 volts. Wouldn't a single hot on a typical American split phase circuit be only 120 volts?

Let me explain it differently.

UK appliance in the UK would get a ground and 2 power conductors. 230V across them. Appliance sees 230 and runs.

The same UK appliance could be connected to the black and red in the US and get 240V. The US white conductor would not be used for the UK appliance. Appliance sees 240 and runs. Just like your 240V USA table saw would in the US.

FWIW, if you took your 240V USA table saw to the UK and connected it to the 2 power wires it would run. Some motors may not be happy with the frequency change (50/60 Hz)

In the UK there is no split phase, no white wire, no 120V.

 

[niget2002]

Let me explain it differently.

UK appliance in the UK would get a ground and 2 power conductors. 230V across them. Appliance sees 230 and runs.

The same UK appliance could be connected to the black and red in the US and get 240V. The US white conductor would not be used for the UK appliance. Appliance sees 240 and runs. Just like your 240V USA table saw would in the US.

FWIW, if you took your 240V USA table saw to the UK and connected it to the 2 power wires it would run. Some motors may not be happy with the frequency change (50/60 Hz)

In the UK there is no split phase, no white wire, no 120V.

Which is also why a lot of our power supplies and some other appliances have little switches on the back to switch from 120v to 220v.

 

[dave*99]

Some power supplies (phone chargers, computer supplies) can operate from 90-250V without need for switches. Some come with a handful of plug adapters. Many are 2 prong.

 

[wyliesdiesels]

Maybe I don't understand things , but doesn't a UK circuit that is 230 volts consist of a hot, a neutral, and a ground? How do you connect only the hot on a UK plug and get it to work on an American circuit? In the USA we utilize two wires for 240 volts. Wouldn't a single hot on a typical American split phase circuit be only 120 volts?

an appliance does not care what type of conductor is delivering the voltage. providing 230v or 240v via 2 hots or 1 hot and 1 neutral will not matter 1 bit to the appliance... the appliance has no clue what type of conductor it is connected to.... it is not that smart. all it cares about is the voltage delivered

 

[Norcal]

Let me explain it differently.

UK appliance in the UK would get a ground and 2 power conductors. 230V across them. Appliance sees 230 and runs.

The same UK appliance could be connected to the black and red in the US and get 240V. The US white conductor would not be used for the UK appliance. Appliance sees 240 and runs. Just like your 240V USA table saw would in the US.

FWIW, if you took your 240V USA table saw to the UK and connected it to the 2 power wires it would run. Some motors may not be happy with the frequency change (50/60 Hz)

In the UK there is no split phase, no white wire, no 120V.

Years ago there were posts on various forums from posters wanting to use American cooking equipment, & clothes dryers in the 50 Hz world, due them requiring 120/240V, or 120/208V, which would not work without a transformer on that system plus still not cover the frequency difference, & wiping out any lower price they got buying the US market appliance.

 

[dave*99]

Years ago there were posts on various forums from posters wanting to use American cooking equipment, & clothes dryers in the 50 Hz world, due them requiring 120/240V, or 120/208V, which would not work without a transformer on that system plus still not cover the frequency difference, & wiping out any lower price they got buying the US market appliance.

Agreed and that’s why I used a 240V table saw instead of an appliance in my example of using US equipment in the UK and mentioned the frequency difference.

 

[Norcal]

Agreed and that’s why I used a 240V table saw instead of an appliance in my example of using US equipment in the UK and mentioned the frequency difference.

Best way to use a machine made for the US market is a 3 phase machine & a VFD.

 

[reader2580]

I was confused by someone stating not to use the neutral. I was thinking they meant the UK neutral, not the USA neutral. I was thinking there is no way you could get a UK device to run on only the hot.

I own a marine water heater made by a European company. It is designed for USA 120 volts, but they used European wire colors. I had to do a few minutes of research to figure out how to wire it.

 

[Norcal]

I was confused by someone stating not to use the neutral. I was thinking they meant the UK neutral, not the USA neutral. I was thinking there is no way you could get a UK device to run on only the hot.

I own a marine water heater made by a European company. It is designed for USA 120 volts, but they used European wire colors. I had to do a few minutes of research to figure out how to wire it.

Blue is neutral, brown is hot, yellow with a green stripe is grounding.